Ektachrome is a brand of Kodak color transparency film that’s been around (off and on) since the 1940’s. There have been several eras of the film, and even more variations; the name Ektachrome has been given to many different emulsions. While Kodachrome was more iconic, Ektachrome was more widely used, thanks in part to its easier development process and (typically) faster ISOs. While Ektachrome was more popular, it was much more prone to color fading. Kodachrome was a tad warmer, while Ektachrome was a tad more vibrant, depending on the version, of course. I shot plenty of rolls, and several different versions, of Ektachrome back in the day.
The Classic Chrome film simulation is, I believe, largely based on Ektachrome; set to defaults, Classic Chrome has a similar aesthetic to the film. I tweaked the settings so that Classic Chrome would more closely resemble Ektachrome, but I used my memory of the film and didn’t study actual examples of it. Fujifilm has a term for this: memory color. It basically means that it’s more important to have the right feel than to be perfectly accurate. I’m not exactly sure how accurate this recipe is to the film, or which exact emulsion it would be closest to (maybe 100G? 100GX?), but it feels right to me.
This Ektachrome film simulation is intended for GFX cameras. I know that it’s compatible the GFX-50S and GFX-50R, and I believe that it’s compatible with the GFX100, but I’m not 100% certain. You can also use it on the Fujifilm X-T3 and X-T30, and it will produce nearly identical results; on the X100V, X-T4, X-Pro3 and X-S10, set Clarity to 0 (or -2 if you prefer), Color Chrome FX Blue Off, and Grain to Weak Small.
Dynamic Range: DR400
Color Chrome Effect: Weak
Noise Reduction: -4
Grain Effect: Weak
White Balance: 7100K, -6 Red & +5 Blue
ISO: Auto up to ISO 6400
Exposure Compensation: +1/3 to +2/3 (typically)
Sample photographs, all camera-made JPEGs, captured with a Fujifilm GFX-50S using this Ektachrome recipe:
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Love it p!
Learn to live rightly in the World. N. Scott Momaday
Pictures using Ektachrome or Classic Negative Industrial recipe?.
This is using the Ektachrome recipe
There are a couple of pictures that I reprocessed in-camera when creating the recipe, the rest were actually captured using the recipe.
Sample photographs, all camera-made JPEGs, captured with a Fujifilm GFX-50S using this Classic Negative Industrial recipe:
Sorry, typo! Thank you for pointing it out!
I’d suggest changing Dynamic Range to 100% as slide film has a very limited dynamic range.
That’s true and this is an interesting point. Slide film has a very limited dynamic range when compared to most negative films. Digital cameras are limited, as well, but they’ve come a long ways. (X-Trans cameras, with the APS-C sensors, are closer in dynamic range to slide film than GFX, yet X-Trans still has a greater dynamic range than the film). One difference is the falloff: digital cameras tend to be cliffs while film, including slide film, has a bit of a curve. Even the GFX-50S, when you clip highlights, it’s a distinct line where that clipping occurs. While DR100 might produce a more similar dynamic range, it makes that clipping cliff even bigger.
Where I think the recipe is most unlike the film in regards to dynamic range is in the shadows. The curve isn’t right. If the camera had .5 adjustments (like the X-T4), I would consider Shadow +1.5, as +1 is almost not enough and +2 is definitely too much. Even then I don’t think it would faithfully mimic how shadows are handled on Ektachrome film, it’s just not exactly the same, nor would you really expect it to be.
I appreciate the comment!
On my gfx 100 I can’t get to the WB red and blue after I picked 7100 Kelvin. I can do it under normal circumstances but not in the custom function, it seems. Any help on that?
Hmmm, that’s strange. I assume that you arrowed to the right (since you’ve done this before). I don’t have a good solution, as I’ve never encountered this issue. If I figure something out I’ll let you know.
Thx! And yes I arrowed to the right 😊 but no dice!
I’m sorry. I don’t know what the issue is. Have you tried reaching out to Fujifilm Support?