Fujifilm just announced that they are creating a GFX Eterna cinema camera to be released sometime in 2025.
When I was at Fujifilm’s Create With Us event in Austin back in September, they had a Fujinon Duvo HZK 25-1000mm f/2.8-5.0 Box Lens on display. For those who don’t know, this is a quarter-million-dollar broadcast lens, used for sporting events. The camera attached to the lens was a Sony.
Fujinon lenses are renown in the cinema and broadcast world, but Fujifilm doesn’t have a filmmaking camera. Actually, Harlem Fragments was filmed on an X-H2s. A number of short films and mini documentaries have been filmed on an X-H2s, too. But, setting that aside, a true pro cinema camera—something ESPN would use, or Universal Pictures—was missing. I recognized this in Austin, and mentioned to the sales rep that Fujifilm should develop a camera to go with the lens, instead of using a competitor’s model. I guess they were already pretty far along in development, but I had no idea.
I don’t anticipate many, if any, reading this will ever buy the GFX Eterna. Maybe a couple of you. I’m sure it will be very expensive. But if you are a broadcaster or filmmaker, perhaps this is something you’re excited for. I can imagine some IMAX pictures being filmed on this.
One last thing: kudos to whoever at Fujifilm named the camera. It’s brilliant. A monochrome-only X100 Acros or X-Pro Acros would be really cool, too. Just throwing that out there.
This article pits the Fujifilm X-T50 and Fujifilm X-T30 head-to-head on an autumn photowalk in Ann Arbor, Michigan. Just to warn you, this will likely be the most unfair camera comparison anywhere on the internet. Nonetheless, I hope that you find it worthwhile, or at least enjoyable.
Fujifilm introduced the X-T30 in February of 2019. It features a 26mp X-Trans IV sensor, and was Fujifilm’s mid-tier SLR-styled camera until it was replaced by the nearly identical X-T30 II in November of 2021. Fujifilm announced the X-T50 in May of this year. It features a 40mp X-Trans V sensor and IBIS, as well as the contentious Film Dial. While it is not the X-T30 II’s successor (I assume that means an X-T30 III is a possibility in the future), the two models are clearly in the same family. They are similar in size and design, but the X-T50 is slightly larger and heavier (to accommodate IBIS), with rounded corners and is more expensive. According to the spec sheets, the X-T50 is better in pretty much every aspect, but not necessarily by leaps and bounds. Overall, these two cameras are pretty similar for stills photography; however, for video, the X-T50 is the winner.
This last Saturday, Bryan Minear and I cohosted a photowalk in Ann Arbor in conjunction with PROCAM and Fujifilm. We had an excellent turnout: I counted 48 people, including myself and Bryan. The weather was nice—a nearly perfect crisp autumn morning—and the scenery beautiful. It was a massive success, and just a ton of fun. It was so great to meet those who came out!
One especially great aspect of this photowalk for me is that my seven-year-old daughter, Johanna, was able to join us. I gave her my Fujifilm X-T30 to photograph with, set with the Kodak Portra 400 v2 Film Simulation Recipe. I’ve let her use some of my old digicams before, but not a “nice” camera like the X-T30. I wasn’t sure how well she would do with it, but gave her a quick tutorial and let her have at it. Honestly, she stole the show.
Above left: Johanna with an X-T30, captured by me with an X-T50 using the Fujicolor PRO 160C Warm Recipe; Above right: me with an X-T50, captured by Bryan Minear with a GFX100S II.
I bet you can already see where this article is going. Yes, this totally unfair camera shootout is between myself with a Fujifilm X-T50 and Fujinon 27mm f/2.8 lens and my seven-year-old daughter with a Fujifilm X-T30 and TTArtisan 27mm f/2.8 lens. Even though I had the better gear, I had absolutely no chance of winning. Johanna—with an X-T30—won in a landslide. We’ll get to the pictures in just a moment.
The Fujifilm X-T30 has a few fewer film simulations and JPEG options than the X-T50, but it is still a very, very capable camera. Even in the hands of a child, it can capture excellent images. Between the two, I’ll grab the X-T50 every time; however, if I were trying to decide to buy an X-T50 or X-T30 II, that would be a much tougher decision—the X-T30 II is a better value, while the X-T50 is a little more capable. I don’t think you can go wrong either way. Between a used X-T30 and brand-new X-T30 II, I would lean towards the X-T30 II due to Classic Negative and other firmware upgrades.
Above, top-left: by Rickey White. Above, bottom-right: by Bryan Minear. Above, all others: by my wife, Amanda Roesch. Amanda used a Fujifilm X-T5 + Fujinon 56mm f/1.2 lens + Fujicolor Negative Recipe.
The reason why I declared Johanna the winner is because I’m her dad (she was always going to win… I never had a chance—all the dads out there understand), and also because young children are oftentimes good photographers. They are naturally curious and creative. They don’t think about all the “rules” and what they “shouldn’t” do; instead, they’re just having fun. Also, their perspective is so much different—quite literally, because they are smaller, but also figuratively—so it’s a completely different take from what most adults see—they notice things that others completely overlook. If you have a child, I definitely recommend allowing them to photograph with you sometimes. Don’t be afraid to let them borrow one of your cameras (I know, it’s a risk… my oldest son dropped and broke one of mine when he was little). Those experiences might be pivotal for them, and at the least it’s something you both will remember and cherish for many years.
Below are straight-out-of-camera JPEGs captured during the Ann Arbor photowalk by Johanna using a Fujifilm X-T30 and the Kodak Portra 400 v2 Recipe and by me using a Fujifilm X-T50 and the Film Dial Recipes.
I get asked fairly regularly which Film Simulation Recipes are the most popular. For me, this is a fascinating topic, but it’s definitely hard to know definitively. While I get a glimpse on social media, my best gauge is the Fuji X Weekly website statistics; specifically, which Recipe articles are viewed the most. I don’t collect any data on the Fuji X Weekly App, so that’s no help—although, if I did, it would likely offer the most accurate picture; however, it would still be impossible to know which Recipes people programmed into their Fujifilm cameras, or how often they used each. Perhaps a survey would be particularly useful, yet even it has its limitations. While certainly a flawed method, page-view website statics offer the best glimpse at which Film Simulation Recipes are the most popular, so that’s what I’m using for this article. These are simply the Top 25 most-viewed Recipes on the Fuji X Weekly website last month (October 2024).
These types of lists are usually pretty predictable. There are often a few surprises—there is always some movement—but from one month to the next, it’s mostly the same. This time, I was shocked. Just shocked. Yes, some were not all that surprising, but some were highly unexpected. For just the second time this year, Kodachrome 64 has dropped out of first place, and for the first time ever a Fuji X Weekly App Patron Early Access Recipe has reached #1. Also, this is the first time that a Monochrome-based Recipe has even made the list… in October, two of them cracked the Top 10, becoming the first B&W Recipes to rank higher than Kodak Tri-X 400 in a very long time.
Johnny’s BBQ – Nashville, TN – Fujifilm X100VI – Fujicolor Blue – by Jonathan Roesch
Those Recipes with Kodak brand names in the title—Kodachrome, Portra, Gold, Tri-X, T-Max, etc., etc.—are usually the most popular. Classic Chrome is the king of film simulations, as the majority of the most-viewed Recipes are based on that film simulation; however, the Number One Recipe this month is based on Classic Negative—only the second time that has happened this year.
Without any further delay, below are the most popular Recipes of last month!
Top 25 Most Popular Film Simulation Recipes of October 2024
This is an App Patron Early Access Recipe, which means that right now it is only available in the Fuji X Weekly App to Patron subscribers. Eventually it will be available free to everyone, but that might take awhile. This Recipe uses the Classic Negative film simulation, and was published only two weeks ago. It’s highly, highly surprising that it not only cracked the Top 10, but made it all the way to the top spot. Interestingly, it beat out #2 by a very large margin.
A Classic Chrome based Recipe for X-Trans IV cameras that is the long-time most popular Film Simulation Recipe for Fujifilm cameras. It’s rare that this one isn’t Number One, and I’d be surprised if it isn’t back on top next month.
Reggie’s Portra, a popular Classic Chrome based Recipe for X-Trans IV cameras, usually ranks high. Last time it was #2, and now it is #3. This is the most versatile of the Portra Recipes, and the most popular for portrait photography.
This is a new B&W Recipe for X-Trans IV & V cameras that was published about a month ago. Acros-based Recipes are the king of black-and-white, and Kodak Tri-X 400 is usually the only one to crack the Top 25. This one uses Monochrome+G, so it is quite surprising to find it ranked so high.
This is also a new B&W Recipe for X-Trans IV & V cameras that was published about a month ago. This one, too, uses the Monochrome+G film simulation. I was shocked to find both this one and the Hard Tone version above in the Top 10.
Vintage Kodachrome, which is based on Classic Chrome, is one of the older Film Simulation Recipes on Fuji X Weekly, and is compatible with X-Trans III cameras. It usually cracks the Top 15, and sometimes the Top 10. Last month it was #11.
It is probably unfair to include the Film Dial Recipes in this list because it is not one but 14 Recipes. Last month was the first time seeing it in the Top 25, and I was faced with the choice of included it (as unfair as that might be) or not. The Vibrant Arizona article is technically four Recipes, so there is a precedence for its inclusion. I think the sudden rise in interest in the Film Dial Recipes is due to three things: 1) people buying the X-T50, 2) the announcement of the X-M5 (which also has a Film Dial), and 3) people realizing that these Recipes can be used for a lot of other cameras, and not just those with the knob. In September it was ranked #7.
This is oftentimes the highest ranked Classic Negative based Recipe, but this month it is Number Two (if you don’t include Superia Negative from the Film Dial Recipe set). This particular version of Pacific Blues is compatible with X-Trans IV models, but there is also an X-Trans V version. It also rose one spot since last month.
This version of Kodak Portra 400 was commonly the third most popular Film Simulation Recipe on Fuji X Weekly for a long time; however, it has been slowly falling. Last month it ranked #9.
This is the long-time most popular B&W Recipe on Fuji X Weekly, although it places third this time (not including Neopan Negative in the Film Dial set). It’s based on the Acros film simulation, and has compatibility with X-Trans III, X-Trans IV, and X-Trans V models. It remains in the same position.
This is an Eterna-based Recipe for X-Trans V cameras; however, it’s simply an adaptation of the X-Trans IV version that has been around awhile. It also remains in the same position.
Reala Ace used to be the most popular Classic Negative Recipe, typically found in the Top 10, and sometimes even the Top 5 (and even once at #1!), but it has fallen quite far in the rankings, including four spots since last month. This Recipe is for X-Trans V cameras.
I published this Recipe, which uses Classic Chrome and has compatibility with both X-Trans IV and X-Trans V cameras, in April. It fell two spots since September.
Published in June, this is the highest-ranked Recipe that uses the Nostalgic Neg. film simulation (aside from Nostalgic Film in the Film Dial set). It also remains in the same position compared to last month.
Above: Aurora Borealis captured in Central Park NYC on an iPhone 13 using the Vibrant Color filter in RitchieCam.
I’m very proud of my iPhone camera app, called RitchieCam. But this last weekend I broke it, and I’m very sorry about that. For some of you, the app stopped working a couple days ago. But now it’s fixed! Let me explain what happened and why.
When Apple introduced the iPhone 16 and iOS 18 a couple of months ago, they included some new features. I wanted to incorporate those into RitchieCam so that you could take advantage of them. Whenever Apple introduces something new, that doesn’t mean that it is easily implemented into third-party apps. Sometimes they exclude it from even being available, and in order to include it one must take unconventional and roundabout paths. The volume button as a shutter release is one example of that: it was only fairly recently that Apple officially supported it for third party apps like RitchieCam, and so (until they did) it was quite crazy the programming necessary to make it work. Some things have been figured out, and some things haven’t. RitchieCam has a very small team working on it in their spare time, yet we’ve been able to do a heck-of-a-lot, all things considered. There’s a lot more that we’d like to do, and are currently working on.
Thankfully and amazingly—and really because of Sahand Nayebaziz, who is an incredibly talented app developer—we were able to get most of the new iPhone 16 and iOS 18 features added to RitchieCam. We finished it up late last week, submitted to Apple for approval, and over the weekend it went live. I was really excited, but then reports began to come in: the app keeps crashing and is unusable. Yikes! I’m very appreciative of all those who reported the problem.
The issue was actually very small, but it was a matter of finding and correcting it. It was related to iOS 17—if you were on iOS 18, you didn’t experience any issues; if you were on iOS 17, simply updating the iOS would clear it up. Some people hadn’t done that yet, and also some people have older devices not capable of updating to iOS 18. Those are the folks who experienced the problem, which essentially rendered the app useless—I apologize for the problem and inconvenience. We figured out the issue, got a new update built, submitted it to Apple, and yesterday afternoon it was approved and made available. If RitchieCam isn’t working on your device, make sure to update it right now.
Above: Various photos captured on an iPhone 13 using the RitchieCam app.
We didn’t find the problem while beta testing because all of our iPhones were updated to iOS 18. There’s a simulator that allows you to test the app on various devices and iOS versions, and it had worked well on it with no problems—the simulator didn’t catch the crash. Once we found an iPhone with iOS 17 to test it on, the problem was immediate and obvious. Figuring out why and resolving it was another issue, but we got it done. It’s now fixed, and RitchieCam should be working just fine for you (if you’ve updated it).
For iOS 18, one cool new feature is launching RitchieCam directly from the Lock Screen. It’s easy to setup, and makes accessing the app much quicker. If you have an iPhone 16, you can use the new Camera Control Button for various functions, such as exposure adjustments. This isn’t a major update, but hopefully these new features will be helpful to some of you. I don’t use RitchieCam for serious work (although people do use their iPhones for such, so it’s certainly possible…), but it’s very convenient for casual images that most likely will be sent in a text or posted to social media. In particular, I like to use it for the 65:24 XPan aspect ratio (something Fujifilm should include in their 40mp X-series cameras). RitchieCam is available for free in the App Store; become a Patron to unlock all of the features and filters, and to support future development.
This comes from Fujirumors, and not Pentax Rumors, so I’m not sure how much salt needs to be taken with it. On the one hand, Fujirumors has a reputation of accuracy; on the other hand, you’d expect it to break on Pentax Rumors first. One the one hand, the GR III series is five-years-old now (approaching six), so it’s pretty old for a still-in-production digital camera and very logical that an update is imminent; on the other hand, Ricoh has done a good job of keeping it fresh with firmware updates, and demand for this camera is still sky high. I don’t think Ricoh “needs” to release a GR IV, but it would sell like hotcakes if they did.
Why am I talking about this on Fuji X Weekly? For starters, I have Recipes for Ricoh GR cameras, so this is an excellent excuse for a shameless plug. If this camera does indeed come, I will buy it. If a B&W-only version comes later, I’ll buy that, too. GR cameras are great because they are so small. They’re more pocketable than Fujifilm, which makes them excellent for travel or everyday carry. I don’t think they’re as fun (or quite as good) as Fujifilm cameras, but for casual photography, they can still be quite fun (and good). Which brings me to this: Fujifilm should fast-track the long-overdue X70 successor, presumably called X80.
The X70 was Fujifilm’s closest competitor to the Ricoh GR. It has traditional tactile manual controls—one aspect of what makes Fujifilm special—and Fujifilm’s excellent Film Simulations. An X80 would be immensely popular, and its exclusion from the X-series lineup is a missed opportunity. I hope that it is in Fujifilm’s plans, and if it’s not, I would encourage them to add it to the plans as quickly as possible. Many of us are eager for an X70 successor. And also for a B&W-only camera (maybe called “Acros Edition”), perhaps in an X100 or X-Pro body.
For those who live in Ann Arbor—as well as the surrounding areas—be sure to join us. Detroit is right there. Toledo and Lansing aren’t too far. Grand Rapids, Cleveland, and Fort Wayne are a pretty far drive, but some people have traveled longer distances than that for the other photowalks—if it’s not too far for you, I’d love to meet you in person. If you think that you can join us, you will need to sign up (click here to register), but it’s quick and easy to do, and best of all FREE!
Afterwards, we will head over to PROCAM—about a 10-minute drive away—for some refreshments. It’s going to be a great time! If you are in the area, this is a don’t-miss opportunity—I hope to see you on Saturday morning!
The Film Dial, which was introduced on the Fujifilm X-T50 and is now also found on the Fujifilm X-M5, is a lot of fun. Some people don’t like it, and that’s ok. Not every camera is for everyone, and not every feature is for everyone. It’s one of Fujifilm’s most contentious features. Personally, I like the Film Dial—it’s very useful when combined with my universal Film Dial Recipe, but, perhaps more important, it’s enjoyable.
A few days ago was Halloween. My four kids dressed up, and we went to a nearby family member’s house to pass out candy and trick-or-treat. My oldest daughter was Wednesday from The Addams Family. My oldest son was Waldo. My youngest son was a Fortnight character. And my youngest daughter was Cinderella. We passed out candy before walking around the neighborhood. It was a ton of fun!
Since it was going to be dark—starting right at sunset and continuing into the night—I wanted to use a fast lens, so I borrowed my wife’s Fujinon 56mm f/1.2 (the new version). That’s one of my favorite lenses—it has such fantastic image quality—but since it’s not mine, I don’t always get to use it. I debated between cameras, but went for the Fujifilm X-T50 because it is more lightweight and compact than the X-T5, and has IBIS, which the X-E4 does not. For this particular purpose, it seemed Goldilocks.
I only used the Film Dial Recipe that night, and turned the knob to different film simulations depending on the light, subject, and situations. The great thing is that you get a real-time preview of what the picture will look like, so you can quickly change the film sim to better match the scene, and see what each will produce. I used Classic Negative the most, but also Classic Chrome, Reala Ace, Eterna, Nostalgic Neg., and Acros+R. It worked out really well for documenting our spooky Halloween celebration.
I asked, you answered. Below you will find the top color Film Simulation Recipes for portraits and people, as chosen by you! I appreciate everyone who took time out of their busy day to answer the survey—I’m sure this information will be quite helpful to many people, so thank you!
What makes a Recipe good for portraits? There’s no objective answer to this, as everyone has their own unique style and taste. Probably the best answer is: ones that produce good skin tone rendering—Classic Chrome might be the best film simulation for that, but, of course, that’s very subjective, and opinions vary. How a certain Recipe does depends a lot on the exact light situation—one might be great in a specific scenario but not in another. All of that makes it difficult to say with any level of certainty which Recipes are best for portraiture, but there are clearly some that are more universal than others.
I’m not a portrait photographer myself. I’ve dabbled in it here and there over the years, but it’s just not my thing. My wife, however, does do portrait photography, and her favorite Recipe is Reggie’s Portra. In fact, all of her top Recipes for portraits and people (aside from the brand-new Fujifilm Negative Recipe that I just published yesterday) cracked the Top 10. There are definitely some good options, and the poll results confirm a lot of my suspicions about which ones are best.
The specific question asked was: which color Film Simulation Recipe is your favorite for portraits and people? I gave 25 Recipe options that either I have used personally or I have seen others use for people pictures, so I knew they were a good group. Then, I provided a space to add any Recipes that were left out for those whose favorites weren’t in the list—since there are approaching 400 Recipes, most were left out. The results were fascinating, so let’s jump into it!
Reggie’s Portra was unsurprisingly the top pick; however, what did surprise me was that it absolutely dominated the poll. Almost half of you chose this Recipe as a favorite for people pictures. According to you, this is the Recipe for portraits. And I concur. This Recipe is compatible with X-Trans IV models (except the X-T3 & X-T30); for fifth-generation cameras, simply set Color Chrome FX Blue to Off.
Kodak Portra 400 v2 is one of my all-time favorite Recipes. Portra film (as the name implies) is specifically intended for portrait photography, so it should not be a shock that this Recipe is popular for people pictures. One-in-five of you chose this in the poll, putting it in (a distant) second place. There is a version for fifth-generation models (linked above), one for X-Trans IV, and one for the X-T3 and X-T30.
Kodachrome 64 is the long-time number one most popular Film Simulation Recipe on Fuji X Weekly. For pictures with people, this one places third, which is still high, but far from the top spot. There is a version for fifth-generation models (linked above), one for X-Trans IV, and one for X-Trans II.
One film can produce many different looks depending on a whole host of factors (how handled, how shot, how developed, how scanned or printed, and how viewed); Kodak Portra 400 and v2 both produce a Portra-like look, but based on two notably divergent possible outcomes of the emulsion. There is a version of this Recipe for X-Trans IV models (linked above; for X-Trans V, set Color Chrome FX Blue to Off), one for the X-T3 & X-T30, and one for X-Trans III (although that one is significantly different).
Tied for Number 5 (with Kodak Portra 160 v2 below) is Reala Ace, which interestingly does not use the Reala Ace film simulation; instead, it is based on Classic Negative. It’s highly versatile and fairly popular, so I’m not surprised to see it ranked so high. It’s compatible with all fifth-generation models.
Also in fifth place is Kodak Portra 160 v2. This one has more of a softer rendering, and is especially great for taming high-contrast scenes. This is compatible with all fifth-generation models; for X-Trans IV (except the X-T3 & X-T30), simply set Color Chrome FX Blue to Strong.
Tied for seventh (with Kodak Portra 160 below) is McCurry Kodachrome, which is modeled after Steve McCurry’s famous last roll of Kodachrome 64. Think of it as scanned Kodachrome, while the Kodachrome 64 Recipe (a couple of spots higher) is more like projected Kodachrome. This recipe is compatible with all X-Trans IV cameras.
The Kodak Portra 160 Recipe, which is tied for seventh (with McCurry Kodachrome above), has a soft and warm Kodak color negative aesthetic. Recipes with Portra in the name account for five of the Top 8 in this list. There is a version of this Recipe for X-Trans IV (linked above), one for X-Trans III & X-T3/X-T30, and one for X-Trans II.
This was my very first Recipe that uses the Nostalgic Neg. film simulation. It’s an excellent all rounder, including for people pictures, but I am a bit surprised to see it at Number 9. Nostalgia Negative is compatible with all X-Trans V cameras.
Pacific Blues has a lot of contrast, so it’s not for every situation, but when it works, it really works. It’s tied for Number 10 with Fujicolor NPS 160 Pulled (below). There is a version X-Trans V (linked above), and one for X-Trans IV (except the X-T3 & X-T30).
Also tied for Number 10 is Fujicolor NPS 160 Pulled. This is a highly versatile Recipe with low-contrast and muted colors, and is especially excellent for artificial light situations. It’s compatible with X-Trans IV cameras (except the X-T3 & X-T30); for fifth-generation models, set Color Chrome FX Blue to Weak.
If you’re not sure which Recipes to try for portrait photography, I’d start with the 11 above. That’s a good group, and there’s enough variety that at least one should work well for you. But, in case those aren’t enough, I’ve included below the Recipes that received at least two votes in the poll (including a couple write-ins). I figure if at least two people voted one as a favorite, then it must be decent, and worthwhile to try. Also, there were a number of write-ins for Kodak Tri-X 400; this list was specific to color Recipes, but, for B&W, I definitely recommend that Recipe—it’s my personal favorite.
There are many Film Simulation Recipes that weren’t mentioned in this article that are probably pretty good, so just because one wasn’t listed here doesn’t mean it won’t produce good results for portraits and people pictures. Part of the fun is in the discovery. The one that could become your favorite might be in this list, or it might not, and you won’t know until you try. I invite you to pick a couple of these Recipes, and maybe one not in this list, and shoot some portraits to see if you like the results. You can find them here, or in the Fuji X Weekly App, which is available for both Apple and Android.
Over the last several months, my wife, Amanda, and I have been sharing our Fujifilm X-T5, which I purchased in November 2022 when it first came out. Her camera is an X-T4 that she’s used for years, but lately has been drawn more to the newer model. Amanda does portrait, event and theater photography, but she really loves videography. By far, the Film Simulation Recipe that she uses the most for still photography is Reggie’s Portra; Reala Ace and Pacific Blues are a distant second and third. We used this new Fujifilm Negative Recipe for some of our photos captured on the X-T5 as we traveled across the country over the last few months.
My inspiration for this Recipe was Fujicolor PRO 160NS color negative film, although it wasn’t necessarily closely modeled after it—I just looked at a number of frames captured with that emulsion when I was creating this, so there is a noticeable similarity. Fujicolor PRO 160NS was produced by Fujifilm between 2010 and 2021; however, before that it was named PRO 160S, and before that—in the 1990’s—it was called NPS 160, with small changes and improvements over the years. While this doesn’t exactly match those emulsions, it certainly has a Fujifilm color negative film vibe, and just feels analog-like.
Camera Conversation – Philadelphia, PA – Fujifilm X-T5 – Fujifilm Negative – by Amanda Roesch
This Fujifilm Negative Film Simulation Recipe is intended for sunny daylight photography. It works well in overcast conditions, too, and indoor natural light. It might not be the best choice for artificial light situations (can be a bit too yellow), and can be a bit too cool in the shade. This Recipe is compatible with all fifth generation X-Trans models, which (as of this writing) are the Fujifilm X-H2s, X-H2, X-T5, X-S20, X100VI, X-T50, and X-M5 cameras. It can be used on the latest GFX models, too, but will likely render slightly different (try it anyway).
Film Simulation: Reala Ace Dynamic Range: DR400 Grain Effect: Weak, Small Color Chrome Effect: Strong Color Chrome FX Blue: Off White Balance: 5000K, 0 Red & -2 Blue Highlight: -1 Shadow: -0.5 Color:+2 Sharpness: -1 High ISO NR: -4 Clarity: -2 ISO: Auto, up to ISO 6400 Exposure Compensation: +1/3 to +1 (typically)
Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs captured using this Fujifilm Negative Film Simulation Recipe on a Fujifilm X-T5:
Indoor Grass – Nashville, TN – Fujifilm X-T5
Modeling – Philadelphia, PA – Fujifilm X-T5 – by Amanda Roesch
Friendly Conversation – Philadelphia, PA – Fujifilm X-T5 – by Amanda Roesch
Hot Dog Stand – New York City, NY – Fujifilm X-T5 – by Amanda Roesch
Photowalk – Philadelphia, PA – Fujifilm X-T5 – by Amanda Roesch
Stories – Philadelphia, PA – Fujifilm X-T5 – by Amanda Roesch
Talking About Cameras – Philadelphia, PA – Fujifilm X-T5 – by Amanda Roesch
Reviewing Pictures – Philadelphia, PA – Fujifilm X-T5 – by Amanda Roesch
Setting a Recipe – New York City, NY – Fujifilm X-T5 – by Amanda Roesch
Crosses on Steeples – Denver, CO – Fujifilm X-T5
Oak Leaf – Clinton, CT – Fujifilm X-T5
Lake Morning – Clinton, CT – Fujifilm X-T5
First Catch – Clinton, CT – Fujifilm X-T5
Third Catch – Clinton, CT – Fujifilm X-T5
Fourth Catch – Clinton, CT – Fujifilm X-T5
Shore Fishing – Clinton, CT – Fujifilm X-T5
Dock Fishing – Clinton, CT – Fujifilm X-T5
Breakfast – Clinton, CT – Fujifilm X-T5
Camera on a Bookshelf – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Sunset over the Eucalyptus – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
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I’m not a portrait photographer. I have dabbled in it a little over the years, but it is just not my thing. So when people ask me which Film Simulation Recipes I recommend for portraits, it’s hard for me to provide a good answer. Now, I do have some experience to fall back on, plus I’ve seen some of your great pictures on social media, so I’m not completely clueless. I can give some recommendations that I’m confident will do well. I just wish that I could provide a bit more expert advice whenever I’m asked.
In yesterday’s post I included a survey. A couple years back I conducted a poll on Fuji X Weekly, but I was quite dissatisfied with the poll itself (how it was integrated, how it had to be configured), so I never bothered to do another. Just this week I learned of a much better and easier way to go about it, and I’m really happy with how it came together and turned out. So… you can expect a lot more surveys in the near future! I’m excited about this feedback—your opinions are immensely important.
Below you will find a poll question: Which color Film Simulation Recipe(s) is/are your favorite(s) for portraits? I want to know which Recipe you like best when photographing people. I picked 25 Recipes for the poll that I know some of you currently use or have used in the past for portrait photography, plus a couple that I have personal experience with. Pick one, two, three, or more—if you’ve used a particular Recipe for portraits and had good results, go ahead and mark it.
There’s a second question: Name a Recipe not found above that you like for portraits? I’ve published nearly 400 Recipes, so 25 is barely scratching the surface. I’m sure that I left out many that are good for portraits, included the two Recipes used for the photos above. Even if you marked some in the first question, go ahead and fill-in-the-blank for the second question if a Recipe that you have experience with was left out (if you’d rather, you can leave it as a comment instead). I appreciate your help with this!
The Fujifilm X100VI—the most in-demand camera of 2024—has a fixed 23mm (35mm full-frame equivalent) f/2 lens. It’s not an interchangeable-lens camera, which limits its versatility; however, Fujifilm has provided a couple of options to increase its flexibility. First is the built-in Digital Teleconverter, which is a zoom-by-cropping. Second, Fujifilm offers two conversion lenses—a wide-angle and telephoto—that screw onto the end of the fixed-lens. We’ll talk a bit about both of these solutions in this article, but mostly we’ll focus on the two conversion lenses. Specifically, I will answer this question: is the Fujifilm X100VI combined with the WCL-X100 II and TCL-X100 II conversion lenses a practical small kit for travel photography?
MPB is the sponsor of this article. They loaned me a Fujinon WCL-X100 II Wide Conversion Lens and Fujinon TCL-X100 II Tele Conversion Lens to try out for a couple of weeks. For those who don’t know, MPB is an online platform where you can buy, sell, or trade used photo and video gear. “At MPB, there’s something for everyone who wants to try something new, hone their skills, or pursue their passion—and it won’t cost the earth.” If you’re in the market for used camera gear, be sure to check out their platform—you can learn more about MPB here. Thank you, MPB, for making this article possible!
One thing that I love about the Fujifilm X100VI is its compactness. The camera is small enough to fit into a large pocket, and its lightweight enough to carry around all day without being burdensome. The photographs that the X100VI produces straight-out-of-camera are incredible, and can be very film-like. I’ve said many times that this is my desert-island camera—if I could only ever have one for the rest of my life, it would be the X100VI. But, the fixed-focal-length lens is somewhat limiting, so I often suggest that it pairs well with an interchangeable-lens body. I will always bring the X100VI along with me when I travel, but I will almost always have another camera, too.
The Digital Teleconverter helps to make the X100VI more versatile. The 50mm (full-frame equivalent) Digital Teleconverter produces a very usable 20mp image, while the 70mm (full-frame equivalent) Digital Teleconverter produces a much less usable (but still usable for social media) 10mp image. I use the 50mm option somewhat regularly and don’t think twice about it, but I rarely use the 70mm Digital Teleconverter because it is more for emergency-use-only. This does add some versatility, but only a little.
By screwing one of the two conversion lenses—WCL-X100 II and TCL-X100 II—onto the end of the fixed-lens (where the filter adapter attaches), you essentially turn the X100VI (and the older X100 series models, too) into an interchangeable-lens camera. The WCL-X100 II has 0.8x magnification, turning the 23mm lens into 18mm (28mm full-frame equivalent). The TCL-X100 II has 1.4x magnification, turning the 23mm lens into 50mm (full-frame equivalent). Interestingly, there is actually a small focal-length difference between the TCL-X100 II and the Digital Teleconverter, despite that they are both supposedly 50mm equivalent—the TCL-X100 II is actually slightly more telephoto than using the 50mm Digital Teleconverter. I didn’t notice any reduction in image quality when using either conversion lens (amazing!); however, the distortion can do some weird things, which you are likely to only notice when photographing brick or tile walls.
Probably the largest drawback to the two conversion lenses is that they add noticeable size and weight to the camera. The WCL-X100 II is 1.5″ (long) x 2.2″ (diameter), and weighs 0.33 pounds, which isn’t terrible. The TCL-X100 II is a little larger and heavier: 1.8″ (long) x 2.8″ (diameter), and weighs 0.39 pounds. While the WCL-X100 II is a little less inconvenient to have attached, I personally liked the TCL-X100 II a little more. I feel like the conversion lenses contradict the camera’s philosophy (one-camera-one-lens; small/lightweight) to a degree, but at the same time, they do make for an extremely small and lightweight kit. I carried both conversion lenses and the X100VI in a Peak Design Sling, which was an amazingly compact kit for travel!
Fujifilm X100VI + WCL-X100 II (28mm full-frame equivalent)
Fujifilm X100VI (35mm full-frame equivalent)
Fujifilm X100VI + WCL-X100 II + Digital Teleconverter (40mm full-frame equivalent)
Fujifilm X100VI + Digital Teleconverter (50mm full-frame equivalent)
Fujifilm X100VI + TCL-X100 II (50mm full-frame equivalent)
Fujifilm X100VI + TCL-X100 II + Digital Teleconverter (70mm full-frame equivalent)
You can combine the Digital Teleconverter with the conversion lenses to increase the versatility even further, achieving 28mm, 35mm, 40mm, 50mm, and 70mm (full-frame equivalent) focal-lengths without resorting to the 10mp crop. I didn’t find the Digital Teleconverter combined with the WCL-X100 II lens particularly useful, personally; however, I did utilize the Digital Teleconverter a handful of times with the TCL-X100 II lens. I think it would be interesting if Fujifilm offered a 0.7x magnification (24mm full-frame equivalent) WCL option and a 2x magnification (70mm full-frame equivalent) TCL option in addition to the two they already have—I think this four lens (plus the 23mm fixed lens) kit would be extremely compelling for travel photography, if it were available.
I was invited to be a part of Fujifilm’s Create With Us event in Austin, Texas, last month. It was such a great time, and it was wonderful to meet many of you in-person. The only camera that I brought along with me was my Fujifilm X100VI, plus I had the WCL-X100 II and TCL-X100 II conversion lenses. I left the interchangeable-lens models at home. It was so nice to have a compact three lens kit—which stretched into a faux four lens kit utilizing the Digital Teleconverter—that all fit into a small sling bag. When you travel, oftentimes less is more, as space is a premium.
It was good to have three lens options available: the fixed lens (23mm), WCL-X100 II (18mm), and TCL-X100 II (32mm). There were definitely times when each came in handy. While the WCL-X100 II was a little less detrimental to the X100VI experience than the TCL-X100 II, I found myself using the TCL-X100 II more. I don’t know that either of the two are essential. For the most part, one can take a couple steps backwards instead of using WCL-X100 II, and one can take a few steps forward (or utilize the Digital Teleconverter) instead of using the TCL-X100 II. Obviously that’s not always practical (or the same result), so having the conversion lenses available was appreciated.
I think the conversion lenses are an interesting concept. Having used them on this one trip, I was left both impressed and confused simultaneously. I utilized them a lot more than I think I would have if I had not been testing them out for this article. If someday I did buy them, they’d likely only get occasional use; however, for those occasions when they do come in handy, it’s great to have them available, as they’re pretty darn good. More than anything, I think if you’re a bit nervous to pack light for fear that you’ll miss out due to not having the “right” lenses available, the two conversion lenses will give you a bit more confidence. Even if they’re largely left unused in your sling, it’s probably still better than lugging around a bigger and heavier bag with a larger body and a couple lenses to go with it. In that sense, the two conversion lenses are completely worthwhile accessories to go along with your X100VI camera.
When I introduced the Evergreen + Fuji X Weekly Protective Case for Fujifilm X100-series cameras four weeks ago, I mentioned that there isn’t enough free space for a neck strap to fit into it. Many wrist straps fit, but there’s not enough space inside the case for a neck strap. An alternative that I suggested was to use a quick-release strap (and store the strap elsewhere), which would certainly work, but it may or may not be a good solution for you. Well, I’m very happy to report that the Evergreen 28″ Short Strap will, in fact, fit inside the case!
I was a little worried that this neck strap would be a bit too short, but it wasn’t (at least not for me). It’s made from genuine leather, with a soft microfiber suede back for comfort. Evergreen calls the design minimalist vintage-modern; I’m not sure what that means, but it is stylish, and matches the X100VI aesthetic quite well. So if you are looking for a neck strap that will also fit into the Evergreen + Fuji X Weekly Protective Case, the Evergreen 28″ Short Strap is an excellent option—and it’s only $30. This is what I’m currently using on my Fujifilm X100VI (for about two weeks now), and I’m very happy with it.
If you own a Fujifilm X100-series camera—such as the X100VI, X100V, or X100F—and you want to protect it when you travel or are on some amazing adventure somewhere, this case will do it. The Evergreen + Fuji X Weekly Protective Case is waterproof, shock-resistant, and tough. You don’t have to worry about your camera getting damaged. And it’s only $50.
Also, I’m excited to announce that the Evergreen + Fuji X Weekly Protective Case for Fujifilm X100-series cameras is now available at B&H. Yeah, that camera store. This is a really big deal! So currently it’s available for purchase from Amazon, B&H, and directly from Evergreen Cases.
One more thing: I need your help! Evergreen and I would like to make another case, this time a larger one for an interchangeable-lens model. If you have a couple moments, please answer the two questions below. It will help me out immensely. Thank you so much!
For those who live in Ann Arbor, Michigan—as well as the surrounding areas—be sure to join us. Detroit is right there. Toledo and Lansing aren’t too far. Grand Rapids, Cleveland, and Fort Wayne are a pretty far drive, but some people have traveled longer distances than that for the other photowalks—if it’s not too far for you, I’d love to meet you in person. If you think that you can join us, you will need to sign up (click here to register), but it’s quick and easy to do, and best of all FREE!
We will meet somewhere in downtown Ann Arbor on Saturday, November 9th, at 10 AM. The exact meetup spot is TBD, but we will email it out to everyone who signs up once it has been finalized. Afterwards, we will head over to PROCAM for some refreshments. It’s going to be a great time!
One week later—on November 16th—I will co-lead a photowalk in Philadelphia with Allan Ali, who is a local legend. We teamed up for a photowalk back in August, and it was truly great! This photowalk through the historic and beautiful Old City is in conjunction with Unique Photo as a part of their two day Camera Show. Even if you don’t join the photowalk, at least come to the Camera Show, because it will be completely worthwhile (and while you’re there, you might as well come along on the photowalk 😀).
If you are in Philadelphia or even as far as New York City, I hope you can join us. This one is from 10:15 AM to 12:15 PM, and will include a short classroom presentation. The cost is $10 per person (but you get it back with a $10 token for in-store purchases), and you must preregister (click here). Space is limited, so if you want to come, don’t procrastinate—for August, it filled up rather quickly, and I’m sure this one will, too.
I’m looking forward to seeing some of you in Ann Arbor and Philadelphia very soon!
I get asked all of the time when to use which Film Simulation Recipe. With over 350 in the Fuji X Weekly App to choose from, it can be difficult to know when each Recipe should be chosen, especially since many of them are specifically intended for sunny daylight conditions. With only seven Custom Settings presets on your Fujifilm camera (for most of you, anyway), which ones should you have programed? When should you select them?
The problem with trying to answer this question is that it’s a highly subjective endeavor. While I might like a certain Recipe for a particular situation, you might not. There’s not a right or wrong answer, just what works for you and what doesn’t—and I cannot say whether any particular Recipe will work for you or not. Only you can answer that for yourself, and you have to try a Recipe to know. With that said, I do attempt to give good advice. I’ve written many articles related to this topic, including the series Which Film Simulation Recipes, When? While that has likely been the most helpful, it’s nearly two-years-old now, and a lot of new Recipes have been published since. I think it’s time to update the series for 2024.
The premise of the original series is that Jason Kummerfeldt of Grainydays, a YouTube channel about film photography, gave some advice on when to use which film emulsion in a video entitled Which Film Stock, When? Since film choice is such a personal thing, how do you say when to use which? It’s the same thing for Film Simulation Recipes. His solution was simply to demonstrate what he uses and state what he likes, and maybe you’ll like it, too. In my series, I copied that approach for Recipes—I told you my preferences, and invited you to try them out. We’re going to follow that same formula for this update with just a small twist, which I think makes a little more sense.
What makes Part 3 more challenging than the first two articles is that the X-T3 and X-T30 cameras cannot remember a White Balance Shift within the C1-C7 Custom Settings presets. If two Recipes share the same white balance type but not the same shift, when you switch presets you must remember to adjust the shift, too. That can be inconvenient and frustrating, so my best solution is to program Recipes that use different white balance types and/or share the same white balance type and shift. The user experience is much improved, but you might not be able to program all of your favorite Recipes at the same time, which is the one downside to this solution. What I set out to do with this article is recommend seven Recipes, one for each C1-C7 Custom Settings preset, that don’t share the same white balance type, or, if they do, share the same shift. It’s a difficult task, but I think I came up with a good set for you; however, there were definitely some tough cuts.
Also, if you have a newer X-Trans IV camera, you can use these Recipes, too, by simply setting Color Chrome FX Blue to Off, Clarity to 0, and choosing a Grain size (either Small or Large). While the next installment will cover X-Trans III, some of these Recipes are compatible with X-Trans III cameras; the key is to look for whether they call for Color Chrome Effect or not—if not, it’s compatible with X-Trans III. Also, X-Trans III recipes are fully compatible with the X-T3 and X-T30 (just set Color Chrome Effect to Off), but I avoided those Recipes for this article because I wanted to save them for Part 4.
Below are seven Recipe suggestions for you to program into C1-C7 on your Fujifilm camera, with advice on when to use each. Since Recipes are (for the most part) generationally specific, each article will cover a different group of cameras. This is Part 3, and covers the Fujifilm X-T3 and X-T30.
Window to the City – Salt Lake City, UT – Fujifilm X-T30 – Kodak Portra 400 v2
Kodak Portra 400 v2 does well anytime during daylight hours, but especially for “golden hour” near sunrise and sunset. As the name suggests it is a good option for portrait photography, but is excellent for many genres. This really could be your primary use-most-of-the-time Recipe, and that’s why I suggest placing it in C1. This Recipe uses the Daylight White Balance type, as do the first four of the suggested alternatives below (but not the last one).
I like to reserve C2 for bright midday photography. The old rule of thumb was once the sun was high in the sky, it’s time to put the camera away. While Classic Kodak can be used anytime the sun is out, it is a great options for middle-of-the-day situations, and proves the old adage wrong. This Recipe uses the Shade White Balance type, as do the first two suggested alternatives below (but not the bottom three).
This is a good spot to have an alternative aesthetic compared to C1 and C2—as I don’t think you’d want to have all three up to this point to be essentially similar. Although each of the first three have a Kodak-negative-like look, Kodak Vision3 250D produces a notably divergent aesthetic. With the ones I’ve suggested so far, you’ve got a good set for all sorts of daylight situations no matter your subject. This Recipe uses the Fluorescent 1 White Balance type, as does the first suggested alternative below (but not the bottom four).
Pink Rose Blossom – Ogden, UT – Fujifilm X-T30 – Ektachrome E100GX
Ektachrome E100GX is excellent for sunny daylight photography, but it also does pretty well for dreary overcast conditions. It uses the Fluorescent 2 White Balance type, as does the first suggested alternative below (but not the bottom four).
Street Lamp Sunset – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30 – Kodak Ultramax
I like to have at least one Recipe programmed into my camera that’s highly versatile and can be used no matter the situation. While there are not as many options for the X-T3 and X-T30 as there are for newer X-Trans IV cameras, there are still some excellent options; of those, my personal favorite is Kodak Ultramax. It uses the Auto White Balance type, as do all of the suggested alternatives below.
Wet Glass Bokeh – Salt Lake City, UT – Fujifilm X-T30 – Jeff Davenport Night
If it’s between dusk and dawn, especially if there are city lights, Jeff Davenport Night is the recipe to use on your X-T3 and X-T30 cameras. Period. It uses the Kelvin White Balance type, as does the first option below (but not the bottom four).
Minolta SRT303b – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-H1 – Analog Monochrome
Last but not least is B&W. Filling out the last slot is tricky, because most of the White Balance types have already been used. There are basically three options: choose an X-Trans III Recipe—which is fully compatible with the X-T3 and X-T30—that uses a different WB type (that’s what I’ve done here, as Analog Monochrome utilizes Incandescent); use an Auto WB Recipe—perhaps Ilford Delta Push Process—and disregard the WB Shift, and accept the results for what they are (which will be nearly the same, but not exactly the same); or use a Daylight WB Recipe—perhaps Kodak Tri-X 400—and substitute Daylight with Underwater, which is similar enough that you’re not likely to notice the difference.
Yellow Beanie – New York City, NY – Fujifilm X100VI – Fujicolor Blue
This Fujicolor Blue Film Simulation Recipe was actually a failed attempt at recreating a certain look, but nonetheless I really liked the results, so I decided to make it an official Recipe in the Fuji X Weekly App. Whenever I attempt to replicate a certain look, it’s largely by trial-and-error, and there are a lot of failures along the way. Occasionally one of those failures is interesting on its own merit, such as this one.
What does Fujicolor Blue resemble? It definitely has a Tungsten-balanced film vibe, although I don’t think it matches any specific Tungsten emulsion. I think it also roughly resembles a daylight-balanced film used in conjunction with an 80A or other cooling filter. It definitely has a retro Fujicolor negative film look (perhaps along the lines of Fujicolor Super HR), but maybe also a bit of an Agfa aesthetic (such as Agfacolor 200). While it’s not exactly like any specific emulsion that I’m aware of, it has a strong analog feel, and you could probably convince someone that you shot film and not a modern digital camera.
Flowers & Fruit – Austin, TX – Fujifilm X100VI – Fujicolor Blue
This Fujicolor Blue Recipe is great for adding a cold feeling to a sunny daylight photograph, toning down an overly warm scene, pretty much any indoor situation, and nighttime artificial light scenarios. It’s highly versatile, but the pronounced cool cast in sunny daylight is not going to be for everyone. This Recipe is compatible with all fifth-generation X-Trans cameras, which (as of this writing) are the Fujifilm X-H2s, X-H2, X-T5, X-S20, X100VI, X-T50, and X-M5. Those with certain X-Trans IV models and newer GFX can use it, too; however, it will render slightly different (but don’t be afraid to try it).
Fujicolor Blue is an App Patron Early Access Recipe. If you are a Fuji X Weekly App Patron, you have access to it right now. If not, no worries, as it will eventually be made available to everyone, once it is replaced by a new Early Access Recipe. This also means that an different Early Access Recipe is now available for everyone, so be on the lookout for it.
Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs using this Fujicolor Blue Film Simulation Recipe on a Fujifilm X100VI:
Spain – New York City, NY – Fujifilm X100VI
Poke Poke – New York City, NY – Fujifilm X100VI
Construction Site – New York City, NY – Fujifilm X100VI
Yellow Guy – New York City, NY – Fujifilm X100VI
Fujifilm Photography – New York City, NY – Fujifilm X100VI
Hudson Yards – New York City, NY – Fujifilm X100VI
Urban Skyscape – New York City, NY – Fujifilm X100VI
Green for Siding – Austin, TX – Fujifilm X100VI
How You Doing? – Austin, TX – Fujifilm X100VI
Airborne Bike 1 – Austin, TX – Fujifilm X100VI
Airborne Bike 2 – Austin, TX – Fujifilm X100VI
Here – Austin, TX – Fujifilm X100VI
Lake Dock – Clinton, CT – Fujifilm X100VI
Boatride – Clinton, CT – Fujifilm X100VI
Houseplant – Clinton, CT- Fujifilm X100VI
Fujifilm, Y’all – Austin, TX – Fujifilm X100VI
Don’t Slip – New York City, NY – Fujifilm X100VI
Chochin Lanterns – Clinton, CT – Fujifilm X100VI
Nashville Night – Nashville, TN – Fujifilm X100VI – Photo by Jonathan Roesch
Johnny’s BBQ – Nashville, TN – Fujifilm X100VI – Photo by Jonathan Roesch
Diamonds are For Baseball – New York City, NY – Fujifilm X100VI
This post contains affiliate links, and if you make a purchase using my links I’ll be compensated a small amount for it.
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Bougainvillea Blues – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-H1 – Nostalgic Emulsion Recipe
My daughter, Joy, had approached me and asked, “Can I make a Film Simulation Recipe?”
“Sure,” I happily replied. I handed her my Fujifilm X-H1, gave her a quick tutorial on the menu and settings (she hadn’t previously used this model), and off she went.
A couple of hours later Joy returned. “I’m not sure this is right. Can you help me?” She showed me her pictures.
“What look are you trying to create?” I asked.
“Well,” she replied, “it’s this aesthetic that’s dark with deep greens.”
“Where did you see it?” Joy then proceeded to show me some music videos, including Daylight by David Kushner. “That’s the aesthetic I want to make,” she told me, while stopping on a forested scene.
Rose of Sharon Backlit – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-H1 – Nostalgic Emulsion Recipe
The camera settings she had chosen weren’t all that far off, so I suggested a few adjustments. After more testing and review, another couple changes were made, and then even more testing was done. I asked, “Are you happy with this look?”
“Yes!” Joy excitedly responded. “This is the aesthetic I wanted.”
After she was done capturing pictures, I shot with her settings for a little while myself. I really like the moody and nostalgic feeling that this Film Simulation Recipe produces. It has a retro negative film look, maybe along the lines of Fujicolor Super HQ or Agfa XRG or something like that. You can expect dark shadows and a cool cast that leans green. It’s not a Film Simulation Recipe that everyone will love, but I bet it will be an instant favorite for some of you. It requires a White Balance setting that I had not previously used for a Recipe; for those trying to avoid adjusting the WB Shift when switching between C1-C7, this is another option for you to try.
Concrete Vine – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-H1 – Nostalgic Emulsion – by Joy Roesch
Nostalgic Emulsion was an App Patron Early Access Recipe, but it has since been replaced by a different Early Access Recipe, so now it is available to everyone. This Recipe is compatible with all Fujifilm X-Trans III cameras, plus the X-T3 & X-T30. For those with newer X-Trans IV cameras, set Color Chrome FX Blue to Off, Clarity to 0, and I’d suggest Grain size Small. Those with “older” GFX cameras can use it, too, although it will render slightly different (but try it anyway!).
Film Simulation: Classic Chrome Dynamic Range: DR200 Grain Effect: Strong White Balance: Underwater, -6 Red & +3 Blue Highlight: -1 Shadow: +3 Color: +2 Sharpness: -1 Noise Reduction: -4 ISO: Auto, up to ISO 6400 Exposure Compensation: -1/3 to +2/3 (typically)
Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs captured using this Nostalgic Emulsion Film Simulation Recipe on my Fujifilm X-H1:
Water Fountain – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-H1 – by Joy Roesch
Concrete Fountain – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-H1 – by Joy Roesch
Little Vine Leaves – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-H1 – by Joy Roesch
Backlit Green Leaves – Buckeye, AZ -Fujifilm X-H1 – by Joy Roesch
Hidden Bougainvillea – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-H1 – by Joy Roesch
Garden – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-H1
Spring Window Reflection – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-H1
Fallen Bougainvillea – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-H1
Bougainvillea Sprouting – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-H1
Bougainvillea Sage – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-H1
Bougainvillea Leaves – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-H1 – by Joy Roesch
Bloom Small – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-H1 – by Joy Roesch
Backyard Trumpet Blossoms – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-H1 – by Joy Roesch
Rose of Sharon – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-H1
Rosebud – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-H1
Bright Green Leaves – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-H1
Bush & Blocks – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-H1 – by Joy Roesch
Pouring Sunlight over Honeysuckles – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-H1
Garden Gate – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-H1 – by Joy Roesch
Pink Oleander Blooms – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-H1 – by Joy Roesch
Dark Blooms – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-H1 – by Joy Roesch
Wall and Leaves – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-H1 – by Joy Roesch
Joyful Josh – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-H1
Peaches – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-H1
Architecture & Jon – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-H1 – by Joy Roesch
Blue Glass – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-H1 – by Joy Roesch
Three Bright Ideas – Buckeye, AZ – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-H1
Dusk Light – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-H1 – by Joy Roesch
Green Leaves at Dusk – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-H1 – by Joy Roesch
Veiled Lightbulb – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-H1 – by Joy Roesch
Blue Hour Light – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-H1 – by Joy Roesch
Disabled Parking – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-H1
Illuminated Plant – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-H1
Night Corridor – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-H1
Find this Film Simulation Recipe and over 350 more on the Fuji X Weekly App! Consider becoming a Patron subscriber to unlock the best App experience and to support Fuji X Weekly.
Not everyone is aware of which cameras are currently available in the Fujifilm X-series lineup, or who each one might be for. I did this last year, and thought it would be good to update it for 2024. These are my opinions, and not everyone is likely to agree with them, but I hope that some of you will find this helpful.
If you are looking for the too-long-didn’t-read version, it’s simply this: the X-H2/X-H2s is the premium flagship, the X-T5 is the top-notch retro-styled option, the X-T50 is nearly as good as the X-T5 but with a few notable differences, the X100VI is impossible to get, the X-S20 is the smaller sibling of the X-H line, the X-T30 II is the oldest option but is the best value for stills, and the X-M5 is the newest camera and is pretty good for a base-level model. Oh, and there’s a bonus at the end.
Fujifilm X-H2 / X-H2s
The X-H2 and X-H2s are Fujifilm’s flagship X-series models. These are top-of-the-line hybrid cameras with the greatest features. The X-H2s has a stacked 26mp X-Trans V sensor for maximum speed—think sports and wildlife—while the X-H2 has a high-resolution 40mp X-Trans V sensor. I’ve met a number of talented and successful photographers and videographers who use these models for their professional work, and they speak quite highly of them.
Fujifilm intended the X-H2 and X-H2s to compete against the Canikony brands. Fujifilm wanted those unhappy with their Canon, Nikon, or Sony models—particularly the lower-to-mid-tier full-frame bodies (the GFX line competes more against higher-end full-frame)—to take a close look at these cameras. It seems to be a successful strategy; my rough guestimate from my own experiences within the community is that more than half of those who purchased an X-H2/X-H2s did so as their first Fujifilm model.
If you are coming from another brand and want the easiest transition and also the top-of-the-line model, the X-H2/X-H2s is my best recommendation. For a pro (or aspiring pro) photographer or videographer, this definitely should be strongly considered. Personally, I don’t like the PASM dial philosophy, and so these models are not for me. For those who appreciate Fujifilm’s traditional tactile controls and vintage styling, the X-H2 and X-H2s might not be for you, either; however, no camera is for everyone, and just because this camera “isn’t for me” doesn’t mean that it shouldn’t exist, because there definitely is a need for it, and some people really love this line.
The Fujifilm X-T5 is nearly as capable as the Fujifilm X-H2, but smaller, lighter, and cheaper, and with traditional tactile controls and vintage styling. This camera is no video slouch, but it is a bit more stills-orientated than the flagship line. It has the 40mp X-Trans V sensor, and competes well against some full-frame models. If you want the full Fujifilm experience, this is my top recommended camera. I know some who use the X-T5 for both professional stills and video work, so it is more than capable for whatever it is you need to capture.
From what I can tell, the majority of people who own an X-T5 have previously owned other Fujifilm models. It’s not typically one’s introduction to the X-series. I purchased the X-T5 immediately after it was released, and I have no regrets—it’s a great camera! If you have an older Fujifilm model that you’d like to upgrade from—or a lower-tier body that you want to step-up from—the X-T5 is one to strongly consider.
The Fujifilm X-T50 is the X-T5’s little brother—the technical specs are pretty much identical, and it is essentially equally as capable. The X-T50 is smaller, lighter, and cheaper. It is not weather-sealed (although I’ve taken it out in the rain a few times with no issues), has only one SD-Card slot, and a lower-quality EVF. Also, instead of an ISO Dial (something that the X-T00 series has never had, but the X-T0 series does have), the X-T50 has a Film Dial, which I personally like, but not everyone does.
Between the X-T5 and X-T50, I think if you are new to Fujifilm, I would steer you towards the X-T50; however, if you’ve been in the system awhile, the X-T5 is better and not all that much more expensive. Since the X-T50 is smaller and more lightweight, it might be the better option for travel or walk-around photography. You cannot go wrong with either, but the X-T5 is the more premium option of the two, if you are simply after the best. I like both models, and appreciate them for different reasons.
This is the camera that everyone wants but few can get. The X100VI is by far the most pre-ordered camera in the history of photography, with unprecedented demand. Some who ordered one on the first day that it was available for purchase are still waiting. If you want to buy one, you’ll have to get in a really long line. I was quick to get my preorder in, but I still had to wait a little while; those who weren’t quite as fast have been waiting a lot longer, unfortunately.
The Fujifilm X100VI is my desert-island camera. If I could only ever have one model for the rest of my life, it would be this one. I almost always have it with me. I love the 23mm f/2 fixed lens, the leaf shutter, built-in ND filter, hybrid EVF/OVF, etc., etc.. This camera is extremely difficult to get right now, but hopefully it will be a little easier in 2025. Fujifilm has been manufacturing them at about 4 times the rate that they did the X100V, and eventually they’ll get caught up.
The X-S20 is the little brother of the X-H line. It has a 26mp X-Trans IV sensor paired with the X-Trans V processor. While it is a very capable stills camera, it is more video-centric, and is especially appealing for video content creators. I talked with several professional videographers who own both this and an X-H model, and they like using this camera over the flagship model for more casual work, such as social media videos and shorter-length YouTube videos. A couple even told me that the X-S20 is their top favorite Fujifilm X-series model.
This is another Fujifilm camera that has PASM and is intended to attract Canikony brand photographers. It competes well against Canikony brand APS-C and even some low-tier full frame offerings. From my experience, the majority of people who purchased it did so as their first Fujifilm model. It’s a great option for someone just getting into the system—especially if they’re more interested in video than stills—or as a smaller and lighter companion to their X-H2/X-H2s.
The Fujifilm X-T30 II is the oldest X-series camera that Fujifilm is currently selling. It is quickly approaching the three-years-old mark, but it was an extremely minor refresh (mostly, just a firmware update) over the nearly identical X-T30, which was released in 2019. It uses the same X-Trans IV sensor as the X-S20, but with the X-Trans IV processor (not X-Trans V).
While the X-T30 II is quite similar to the X-T50, Fujifilm has stated that the X-T50 is not its successor. Aside from the newer sensor and processor, as well as a Film Dial instead of a Drive Dial, the X-T50 has IBIS, is marginally larger and heavier, and is significantly more expensive. While I have seen some amazing video work created with an X-T30 II, the camera is definitely more stills-centric. If you’re not especially interested in video, and simply want the best value camera that will do well for photography, the X-T30 II is my top recommendation, and is an excellent introduction to Fujifilm or a good upgrade from an older model. If video is important, or if you just want the more premium option, the X-T50 is a great alternative.
The X-M5 is the newest camera from Fujifilm. It is both their smallest and most affordable model, and is very well equipped for its price point. One notable feature that its missing is an EVF. Like the X-S20, it has a 26mp X-Trans IV sensor paired with the X-Trans V processor. I think it could be an excellent first camera for someone, a solid upgrade from an old X-A model, or a good travel option due to its diminutive size.
For stills photography, if you can spend a little more, the X-T30 II is a step up despite being much older. For video, the X-M5 is better than the X-T30 II, but not quite as good as the X-S20 or X-T50; however, those cameras are a lot more money.
This is kind of a bonus. The Fujifilm X-T4 ES (Extended Spectrum) infrared camera is a unique model that’s not necessarily easy to get. It’s an “ordinary” X-T4, but without the IR filter that is normally over the sensor, which means it is sensitive to the invisible light spectrum—both IR and UV (a.k.a. “full spectrum”). As far as I’m aware, you can only buy it from B&H right now, and only as a special item, which means that you either have to call them or go in-person to their store. I’ve been having a blast with it, the X-T4 ES is so much fun!
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Early one rainy morning back in May, Bryan and I photographed together in The Catskills. Neither of our rain jackets did well at keeping us dry, so, by the time we finished, we both ended up completely soaked. It was a great time nonetheless. Bryan is an awesome guy, and you are not going to want to miss this opportunity to meet him and photograph charming Ann Arbor.
For those who live in Ann Arbor, Michigan—as well as the surrounding areas—be sure to join us. Detroit is right there. Toledo and Lansing aren’t too far. Grand Rapids, Cleveland, and Fort Wayne are a pretty far drive, but some people have traveled longer distances than that for the other photowalks—if it’s not too far for you, I’d love to meet you in person. If you think that you can join us, you will need to sign up (click here to register), but it’s quick and easy to do, and best of all FREE!
We will meet somewhere in downtown Ann Arbor on Saturday, November 9th, at 10 AM. The exact meetup spot is TBD, but we will email it out to everyone who signs up once it has been finalized. Afterwards, we will head over to PROCAM for some refreshments. It’s going to be a great time!
I’ve been asked many times over the last couple of weeks which Film Simulation Recipes are the best for autumn photography. Sometimes the Recipes that work really well for the endless sunshine of summer aren’t quite as good for photographing fall foliage. I live in the desert; for the most part, the leaves here don’t change colors until November and December, and the show is rather mundane compared to most other places. Because of that, whenever I do get to experience the brilliant colors of the changing season, I’m learning as I go which Recipes work well and which ones don’t.
Last year I traveled a few hours up the road to the mountains near Flagstaff, Arizona, where there is an impressive autumn display. I tried seven different Recipes that I thought might do well, and it was interesting to compare the results. As you’d probably expect, some did better than others. If you are trying to figure out which Recipes to try this fall, I definitely recommend taking a look at that article (click here). I also published an article two years ago with some fall Recipe suggestions (click here), which is also worthwhile. Between those two posts, there are 17 potential options for your autumn photography.
Fujifilm X-T5 – Velvia Film Recipe
Last week I was up in New York and Connecticut. It might be “peak fall” right now—or maybe next week—for those up that direction. It was absolutely gorgeous when I was there, despite not being quite peak colors. I was thrilled not only for the opportunity to photograph the incredible scenery, but to also try out different Film Simulation Recipes for autumn photography. Specifically, I wanted to use ones that were not included in those two articles I mentioned in the last paragraph—between all three posts, you should now have a pretty good selection of potential options.
Everyone has different tastes, and the light and subject will be different wherever you go. That’s why it’s good to have options. My hope is that a few of these Recipes—or maybe some from those other two articles—will stand out to you to try for yourself. The idea here is not that you’ll use all 11 of these on your next fall foliage outing, but that you might try some. You might even decide that some of these are definitely not for you—knowing which ones to avoid can also be valuable.
Fujifilm X100VI – PRO Negative 160C Recipe
For myself, I did find a few that I will certainly use again whenever I have the opportunity to photograph fall foliage in the future. And I also found a few Recipes that I probably won’t. Just because I like (or don’t like) something doesn’t mean that you’ll agree with that assessment. Hopefully, though, if you are unsure which ones to program into your Fujifilm camera, this will give you some direction.
Without any further delay, below are 11 Film Simulation Recipes that I tried for fall photography in New York and Connecticut last week.
Velvia Film was one of the Recipes that I was most excited to try out for fall photography. I had high hopes for it, and it didn’t disappoint. In retrospect, I only wish that I had used it more—a lot more, actually. I will definitely utilize this one on my next autumn adventure!
This Recipe is quite vibrant, slightly warm, and fairly low contrast. If you want to emphasize the vivid colors of the changing leaves, this one will do it. Velvia Film is one of the Film Dial Recipes, and you are likely to get good results with Provia, Astia, PRO Neg. Hi, Reala Ace, Classic Chrome, Classic Negative, and Nostalgic Negative (and maybe others); however, Velvia is top-notch for this type of photography, and what I most recommend. It is compatible (as of this writing) with the Fujifilm X-T4, X-S10, X-E4, X-T30 II, X-H2s, X-H2, X-T5, X-S20, X100VI, X-T50 and X-M5 cameras.
I thought that I was going to love Vibrant Velvia for autumn, but I didn’t. Not that it was bad (because it wasn’t), but it didn’t quite emphasize the colors like I hoped it would. Green and blue stand out, but the warm colors of the changing leaves surprisingly get a little deemphasized. Situationally specific, it could still be a good choice for fall photography; however, I think there are several better options.
Where I think this Recipe works best is in a situation like the photo directly below this paragraph. The fall foliage add pops of warmth to the green and blue, which are the two most prominent colors in the scene. As of this writing, this Recipe is compatible with the Fujifilm X-Pro3, X100V, X-T4, X-S10, X-E4, X-T30 II, X-H2s, X-H2, X-T5, X-S20, X100VI, X-T50 and X-M5 cameras.
I like Appalachian Negative in general, so I thought I might also appreciate it for fall. Sure enough, I do! It has the right retro Kodak-like vibes to trigger nostalgia. This is another Recipe that I wish I had used more, because I like the results. I can imagine it being especially appropriate for photographing a pumpkin patch or fall decor or things like that.
Because this Recipe uses the Nostalgic Neg. film simulation, it is only compatible with the latest cameras, which (as of this writing) are the Fujifilm X-H2s, X-H2, X-T5, X-S20, X100VI, X-T50 and X-M5. Of the three Recipes in this article that use the Nostalgic Neg. film simulation, Appalachian Negative is my favorite for autumn pictures.
I had pretty high hopes for 1976 Kodak when I programmed it into my X-T5, but ultimately I decided that it is just a bit too warm and contrasty for my tastes. It definitely does make the pictures look like they were captured in another era, but it just feels like too much warmth, particularly whenever the scenes are already especially warm. Situationally specific it might be a good choice—such as low-contrast cool light scenes—but overall it was not my favorite for fall photos.
If you are going for a 1970’s magazine vibe, you might consider this Recipe; otherwise, I would instead recommend the one directly below this or especially the one directly above. As of this writing, 1976 Kodak is compatible with the Fujifilm X-H2s, X-H2, X-T5, X-S20, X100VI, X-T50 and X-M5 cameras.
As far as the Nostalgic Neg. Recipes that I tried, I feel that Kodak Negative sits in-between Appalachian Negative and 1976 Kodak; however, it is divergent enough that I could see having it programmed as a companion to one of those Recipes. For fall photos, I like this one much more than 1976 Kodak, but not quite as much as Appalachian Negative.
In the right light, this Recipe is phenomenal for capturing autumn colors. Next opportunity, I will definitely have this one programmed into my camera. Kodak Negative is compatible (as of this writing) with the Fujifilm X-H2s, X-H2, X-T5, X-S20, X100VI, X-T50 and X-M5 cameras.
I didn’t expect to like this Recipe for fall foliage because it is soft with muted colors; however, I ended up liking it for that very reason. The Kodak Portra 160 Recipe produces results that are somewhat the antithesis of what one expects from fall photos, which is what makes it work.
This isn’t a Recipe that I would use for all of my autumn images, but, as occasional relief to the vivid pictures that dominate this season, it is quite excellent. This Recipe is compatible with the Fujifilm X-Pro3, X100V, X-T4, X-S10, X-E4, and X-T30 II cameras; for fifth-generation models, simply set Color Chrome FX Blue to Weak instead of Strong.
Kodak Portra 400 v2 is one of my absolute favorite Recipes, so it should be unsurprising that I appreciate the results for fall photographs. Interestingly, there are some similarities between this and Appalachian Negative, so perhaps having both Recipes programmed into the camera is a bit redundant; however, they are definitely divergent enough to justify both.
This particular Recipe is the version for the fifth-generation models, which (as of this writing) are the Fujifilm X-H2s, X-H2, X-T5, X-S20, X100VI, X-T50 and X-M5. There is also a version for X-Trans IV cameras, and one for the X-T3 and X-T30.
Astia Azure is a Fuji X Weekly App Patron-only Early Access Recipe, which means that only App subscribers have access to it at this time. Eventually it will be made available to everyone once a different Early Access Recipe replaces it. I found it did alright in certain light situations (such as the above photo), but was mediocre in others.
While I didn’t necessarily dislike it, Astia Azure wouldn’t be my top choice for autumn photography—I think it’s more of a summertime Recipe, especially if there’s a lot of blue sky… it’s pretty good for nighttime, too. As of this writing, the Astia Azure Recipe is compatible with the Fujifilm X-T4, X-S10, X-E4, X-T30 II, X-H2s, X-H2, X-T5, X-S20, X100VI, X-T50 and X-M5 cameras.
I liked the PRO Negative 160C Recipe a lot for fall photographs. It combines a somewhat soft tonality with vibrant and slightly warm colors, producing anologue-like results. This is another one that I wish I had utilized more, and will use again for autumn images at the next opportunity.
Because this Recipe uses the Reala Ace film simulation, it is only compatible with fifth-generation models, which (as of this writing) are the Fujifilm X-H2s, X-H2, X-T5, X-S20, X100VI, X-T50 and X-M5 cameras. There is a version that uses the PRO Neg. Hi film simulation, which is compatible with the X-T4, X-S10, X-E4, and X-T30 II.
This is another Fuji X Weekly App Patron-only Early Access Recipe, which means that only App subscribers have access to it at this time. Eventually it will be made available to everyone once a different Early Access Recipe replaces it. I like this one, although it can be a bit too contrasty in high-contrast situations, so it isn’t for every scenario.
While I would certainly consider having this as one of my seven C1-C7 Recipes, I’m not certain if it would make the cut or not. It’s close, and it definitely can be useful, so if it didn’t, it would be a tough cut. The Ektachrome E100 Recipe is compatible (as of this writing) with the Fujifilm X-H2s, X-H2, X-T5, X-S20, X100VI, X-T50 and X-M5 cameras.
Last but certainly not least is Pacific Blues. This is another of my favorite Recipes, so it should not be surprising that I also like it for fall photography. This one has a lot of contrast, so it can be challenging to use, and is clearly not for every fall image. Even if the situation where it works well is only encountered occasionally, I would still have this as one of my C1-C7 Custom Settings presets.
This particular version of the Pacific Blues Recipe is for X-Trans IV cameras, which are the Fujifilm X-Pro3, X100V, X-T4, X-S10, X-E4, and X-T30 II cameras; for fifth-generation models, there’s a version for your camera.
Fujifilm X-E4 – Pacific Blues Recipe
Fujifilm X-E4 – Pacific Blues Recipe
Of these 11 Film Simulation Recipes, which seven would I program into my Fujifilm X-T5 or X100VI? Velvia Film, Appalachian Negative, Kodak Portra 160, Kodak Portra 400 v2, PRO Negative 160C, Ektachrome E100, and Pacific Blues—I think, anyway. Kodak Negative was a tough cut in that scenario, so I would probably take a longer look at it, and really consider if that’s what I want to do. In any event, that seems like an excellent set of seven for fall photography that covers most subjects and situations. But, don’t forget, there are also the seven I used in Flagstaff last year, and I would certainly consider including some of those, namely CineStill 400D v2, Kodak Ektar 100, Fujicolor Superia 100, and The Rockwell. This would be a lot easier if we had more than seven slots. More likely, the next opportunity to capture the autumn leaves, I will have different Recipes programmed into two or three cameras, so that I can use more than just seven.
The fall colors won’t last long. If you’ve been wanting to photograph them, don’t procrastinate. Grab your Fujifilm camera, program in a few of these Recipes, and head out the door. The time is now, so make sure that you don’t miss out.
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There are two upcoming photowalks in November that I’m excited to announce: Ann Arbor, Michigan, and Philadelphia, Pennsylvania. Be sure to mark your calendars now!
First up is Ann Arbor on Saturday, November 9th, with Fujifilm X-Photographer Bryan Minear. Bryan is incredibly talented, and it will be a true honor to co-lead a photowalk with him. I guarantee that you’ve seen his work before (even if you are not sure that you have, you probably have—and if you haven’t, you are missing out). I met Bryan in New York in May, and he’s just a really great person. We’re partnering with PROCAM for this free photowalk, and Fujifilm is involved, too. Some of the details are still being worked out, but for those in Michigan, know that this is happening, so be on the lookout for more information, which I will share with you just as soon as I can. This is one that you don’t want to miss!
One week later is Philadelphia on Saturday, November 16th, at Unique Photo as a part of their two day Camera Show. Just like the August photowalk in Philadelphia, this one will be co-led by myself and Allan Ali, who is a local legend. It was so great to work with him, and I’m looking forward to doing it again next month (hopefully this time it doesn’t poor rain on us 🤣). If you are in Philadelphia or even as far as New York City, I hope you can join us. This one is from 10:15 AM to 12:15 PM, and will include a short classroom presentation. The cost is $10 per person, and you must preregister (click here). Space is limited, so if you want to come, don’t procrastinate—for August, it filled up rather quickly, and I’m sure this one will, too. The last photowalk that Allan and I did with Unique Photo in Philadelphia was just incredible, so I’m stoked that we can do it again real soon.
Hopefully there will be a little more to announce in the near future. Be sure to check in now and then so you don’t miss out. For those in Michigan and Pennsylvania, I hope to see you in-person real soon!
