Camera Settings | FUJI X WEEKLY

Film Simulation Recipe Cards, Part 2!

Posted on November 8, 2020 by Ritchie Roesch

Oleksii Prytuhin has done it again! He created 9 more Film Simulation Recipe Cards to add to your collection!

I cannot tell you just how incredibly popular these are! The first 12 Film Simulation Recipe Cards that Oleksii created have been downloaded over 20,000 times! Even Fujirumors shared it. It’s such a great idea! People are really loving the cards!

These are credit-card-sized cards with Oleskii’s favorite film simulation recipes printed on them. They can be kept in a wallet for quick and easy reference. He printed them 86x54mm on thick paper with matte lamination. Feel free to download them and print them yourself, or save it to your phone.

The nine film simulation recipes that are on these cards are: Velvia, PRO Neg. Hi, Fujicolor Pro 400H, Kodak Tri-X Push Process, Kodak Ektachrome 100SW, Kodak Ultramax, Kodak Ektar 100, Classic Chrome, and… Luis Costa’s X-Trans III Classic Chrome recipe that Oleksii slightly modified to his own liking. Try it out! These are all X-Trans III recipes, but they’re also compatible with X-Trans IV cameras.

Oleksii gave me permission to share the PDF with you. If you’re interested in printing these cards for yourself, click the download button below (it will open up the file, which you can download), and print them! There’s also a Word document that contains the individual JPEGs, if that works better for you. I want to give Oleksii a big “thank you” for creating these and sharing them, and I invite you to give him a thank you in the comments if you download them. I appreciate it, and I know the whole Fujifilm community appreciates it!

Download the Film Simulation Recipe Cards!

Download the JPEGs here!

Camera Basics: Shutter Speed

Posted on November 2, 2020 by Ritchie Roesch

Fujifilm X-T30 & Rokinon 12mm – 0.4 Second Shutter Speed

Let’s talk about shutter speed! What is it? What does it do to your pictures? How do you control it to get the images that you want? For many of you, this is something you already know very well, but for others this will be helpful information.

The quick and simple definition of shutter speed is this: the amount of time that the camera’s shutter curtain is open, allowing light to reach the camera’s sensor or film. A fast shutter speed allows very little light to expose the sensor or film, while a slow shutter speed allows a lot of light to expose the sensor or film. Shutter speed is one of three elements of the exposure triangle, with aperture and ISO being the other two.

Some examples of common shutter speeds are 1/15, 1/30, 1/60, 1/125, 1/250 and 1/500. There are, of course, many other shutter speeds, this is far from a comprehensive list. 1/15 is an example of a slow shutter speed, and 1/500 is an example of a quick shutter speed. You’ll note that these are fractions, as in fractions of a second. You’ll also note that they’re half or twice as long as the shutter speed on either side, which means that 1/60 lets in half as much light as 1/30, and 1/15 lets in twice as much light as as 1/30.

If the shutter speed is too slow, you’ll have blur from camera shake, unless you’re using a tripod. A rule of thumb for the slowest hand-held shutter speed (without the help of image stabilization) is this: whatever the focal-length of the lens is (or in the case of Fujifilm X, the 35mm-equivalent focal-length), the shutter speed should be a similar number. For example, if the lens is 12mm, which has a 35mm-equivalent focal-length of about 18mm, the slowest hand-held shutter speed is around 1/15 or 1/20. If the lens is 90mm, which has a 35mm-equivalent focal-length of 135mm, the slowest hand-held shutter speed is around 1/125. With good techniques, you can often get a sharp picture with even slower shutter speeds, but that takes practice. Otherwise, you’ll have to use a tripod.

Shutter speed is about motion, either freezing it or showing it. A slow shutter speed will show motion (such as the picture at the top of this article, where the water is blurred), while a fast shutter speed will freeze it (such as the picture directly below this paragraph, where the moving car is sharp). In the first picture below, which was captured with a 1/450 shutter speed, you’d never know that the car was zooming by, because the motion was frozen. The second picture below, which was captured with a 1/80 shutter speed, shows the motion through the car’s blur. The third picture below, which was captured with a 1/60 shutter speed, shows the motion through panning, where the car is sharp but the background blurred from the sweeping lens.

Fujifilm X-M1 & Fujinon 90mm – 1/450 shutter speed

Fujifilm X-M1 & Fujinon 90mm – 1/80 shutter speed

Fujifilm X-M1 & Fujinon 90mm – 1/60 shutter speed

You can show motion in a photograph using a slow shutter speed, and some of that motion might not be immediately obvious. In the first picture below, the firework is moving during the exposure, showing colorful light streaks. In the second picture, the earth’s rotation makes the stars streak. In the third picture, intentionally shaking the lens creates an abstract picture through the camera’s movement.

Fujifilm X100V – 20 second shutter speed

Fujifilm X-T30 & Fujinon 100-400mm – 30 second shutter speed

Fujifilm X-T20 & Fujinon 90mm – 1/15 shutter speed

A fast shutter speed will freeze motion. If there’s some fast-moving object that you want to capture still without blur, you need a quick shutter. This might be a car driving down the road, running kids or jumping pets. Just how fast the shutter needs to be depends on how fast the object is moving, how close it is to the lens, and the focal-length of the lens. The picture below is an example of freezing a moving object with a fast shutter speed.

Fujifilm X-T30 & Fujinon 90mm – 1/2000 shutter speed

It takes much practice to master the shutter, but with practice you’ll know exactly what shutter speed you need to get the picture that you want. There are many variables, so there’s no one-size-fits-all recommendation. Don’t be afraid to experiment. You might fail, but you’ll learn, which will lead to success. Be creative! Put the camera on a tripod and try some different slow shutter speeds. Try photographing your kids or pets using a fast shutter. Pretty soon you’ll be a master of the shutter, totally in control of your camera.

Fujifilm X-T20 (X-Trans III) + X-T30 Film Simulation Recipe: Kodak Ultramax

Posted on August 24, 2020 by Ritchie Roesch

*Street Lamp Sunset* – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30 – “Kodak Ultramax”

I’ve received a lot of positive feedback from my Fujifilm X100V Kodak Ultramax 400 film simulation recipe, which I published two weeks ago. I’ve had a ton of requests to make a version of this recipe that’s compatible with X-Trans III sensor cameras, plus the X-T30 and X-T3. Well, I’ve done it, and here it is!

This version of the Ultramax recipe is pretty close to the original, but not precisely the same. Because the new cameras—the X100V, X-T4 and X-Pro3—have different tools, that recipe isn’t compatible with “older” Fujifilm cameras, but I made some adjustments and changes, and created this new version, which produces similar results. It’s fully compatible with the X-Pro2, X100F, X-E3, X-T2, X-T20, X-H1, X-T3 and X-T30 cameras. While not 100% exactly the same as the original recipe, it definitely has the same overall Ultramax aesthetic.

*Sunstar Through Peach Leaves* – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T20 – “Kodak Ultramax”

Ultramax 400 is Kodak’s consumer grade ISO 400 color negative film. Kodak has sold Ultramax 400 under many different names, beginning in 1987 with Kodacolor VR-G 400, rebranded Gold 400 one year later, called simply GC at one point, and finally, in 1997, Kodak settled on Ultramax 400. Kodak still sells Ultramax 400, although it’s not the same film as Kodacolor VR-G 400. This film has been tweaked and updated at least nine times over the years; however, the overall aesthetic is still substantially similar between all variations.

Classic Chrome
Dynamic Range: DR400
Highlight: +2
Shadow: +2
Color: +4
Sharpening: +2
Noise Reduction: -4
Grain: Strong
Color Chrome Effect: Off or N/A
White Balance: Auto, +1 Red & -6 Blue
ISO: Auto up to ISO 6400
Exposure Compensation: +1/3 to +1 (typically)

Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs captured using this Kodak Ultramax film simulation recipe on a Fujifilm X-T20 and X-T30:

*Creek* – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T20

*Shadow Catcher* – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30

*Boy by a Window* – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30

*Jonathan in Window Light* – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30

*Pencils on the Table* – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30

*Balcony* – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T20

*Panda Express* – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T20

*Window Flag* – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30

*American Tree* – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30

*Green Mountain Summer* – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30

*Summer Pear Tree* – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30

*Greens of Summer* – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30

*Backyard Tree Evening* – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T20

*Backyard Aspen Leaves* – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30

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Fujifilm X-Trans II Film Simulation Recipe: Astia

Posted on August 22, 2020 by Ritchie Roesch

*Evergreen Sunstar* – Mirror Lake, UT – Fujifilm XQ1 – “Astia”

One of my favorite film simulation recipes that I’ve created is Fujicolor 100 Industrial. It’s not compatible with X-Trans II cameras, but I wanted to make something similar to it for the Fujifilm XQ1. This camera doesn’t have PRO Neg. Std, the film simulation that the Fujicolor 100 Industrial recipe requires. For color photographs, the XQ1 has three options: Provia, Velvia and Astia. I tried both Provia and Astia, and neither worked, but I liked how the Astia recipe looked, so I continued working with it.

What this Astia recipe reminds me of is Provia 100F film. When Fujifilm created their film simulations, the one they named Provia more closely resembles Astia film, and the one they named Astia more closely resembles Provia film, but neither are a great match. This recipe isn’t a 100% match to Provia 100F, but it is closer than the Astia film simulation out-of-the-box or especially the Provia film simulation. Confused? Well, to make it even more confusing, since it’s not really intended to look like Provia 100F and it’s not an especially close match, I named this recipe “Astia” after the film simulation it requires. Whatever the name, and whatever film it may or may not resemble, this film simulation recipe is actually pretty good for everyday use.

*Diagonal Lines on Decor* – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm XQ1 – “Astia”

The XQ1 has a small X-Trans II sensor inside, which means this recipe is fully compatible with all X-Trans II cameras. If you are using it on an APS-C X-Trans II camera, you can increase the maximum ISO to 3200. Feel free to try this recipe on X-Trans I or Bayer sensor cameras, too—it will work but the results might be slightly different.

Astia
Dynamic Range: DR400
Highlight: -2 (Soft)
Shadow: 0 (Standard)
Color: -2 (Low)
Sharpness: -1 (Medium-Soft)
Noise Reduction: -2 (Low)
White Balance: 2650K, +8 Red & -8 Blue
ISO: Auto, up to ISO 1600
Exposure Compensation: +1/3 to +1 (typically)

Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs made using this Astia film simulation recipe on a Fujifilm XQ1:

*Mirror Lake Sign* – Mirror Lake, UT – Fujifilm XQ1

*Floating Preparations* – Mirror Lake, UT – Fujifilm XQ1

*Lake Boardwalk* – Mirror Lake, UT – Fujifilm XQ1

*Blue Boat by the Boardwalk* – Mirror Lake, UT – Fujifilm XQ1

*Fishing Blues* – Mirror Lake, UT – Fujifilm XQ1

*Lone Pine* – Mirror Lake, UT – Fujifilm XQ1

*Tree Silhouette* – Mirror Lake, UT – Fujifilm XQ1

*Nature Flames* – Mirror Lake, UT – Fujifilm XQ1

*Reaching Leaves* – Mirror Lake, UT – Fujifilm XQ1

*Mountain Flower Blossom* – Mirror Lake, UT – Fujifilm XQ1

*Sunlit Pine Needles* – Mirror Lake, UT – Fujifilm XQ1

*Trunk & Log* – Mirror Lake, UT – Fujifilm XQ1

*Logs in the Lake* – Mirror Lake, UT – Fujifilm XQ1

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Fujifilm White Balance Shift: What It Is + How To Use It

Posted on August 19, 2020 by Ritchie Roesch

*White Balance: Daylight. Shift: +3 Red & +1 Blue*. Fujicolor Superia 1600.

What is White Balance Shift and how do you use it on your Fujifilm camera? White Balance Shift is one of my favorite JPEG tools that Fujifilm has included on their cameras. It can have a big impact on the aesthetic of an image, and it’s a critical component of my Film Simulation Recipes. It’s one of those things that’s easy to overlook. In this article I’ll explain what White Balance Shift is and how to use it.

White Balance is the adjustment of color temperature (measured in Kelvin) to account for various light conditions, so that white objects appear white, and not yellow or blue or some other color. White Balance Shift is a tool to precisely fine-tune the White Balance. The intention of White Balance and White Balance Shift is to achieve a natural color balance that matches what the eye sees. But you can give your photographs whatever color balance you’d like—this is art; there are no rules.

How do you adjust White Balance Shift on your Fujifilm camera? It’s not immediately obvious, but quite easy once you know where it is. In your camera’s Menu select White Balance. Once in the White Balance Menu, arrow up or down to whichever White Balance you’d like to use, and then arrow right to adjust the White Balance Shift for that particular White Balance. Select OK to set.

Easy, right?

Now that you know how to adjust the White Balance Shift, let’s take a look at what it does to a photograph. The image below demonstrates the dramatic impact White Balance Shift can have on a picture:

https://fujixweekly.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/img_8286.jpg?w=1000

Center: 0 Red & 0 Blue. Top-Left: -9 Red & +9 Blue. Top-Center: 0 Red & +9 Blue. Top-Right: +9 Red & +9 Blue. Center-Right: +9 Red & 0 Blue. Bottom-Right: +9 Red & -9 Blue. Bottom-Center: 0 Red & -9 Blue. Bottom-Left: -9 Red & -9 Blue. Center-Left: -9 Red & 0 Blue.

Those are examples of big White Balance Shifts, but what about subtle Shifts? Do they make a difference? Take a look at the picture below. The left image is without a Shift (0 Red & 0 Blue), and the right image is with a subtle Shift (+1 Red & -1 Blue). It’s not a huge change, but noticeable nonetheless.

*Slide left and right to compare images.*

Now let’s take a look at some less subtle White Balance Shifts and how it can change the aesthetic of a picture. The examples below are all Auto White Balance using various White Balance Shifts, which are prescribed in different Film Simulation Recipes. The specific Shifts and Recipes are listed under each picture.

*Shift: +2 Red & -2 Blue. Recipe: Fujicolor Pro 400 Overexposed.*

*Shift: +2 Red & -4 Blue. Recipe: Vintage Kodachrome.*

*Shift: +5 Red & -6 Blue. Recipe: Eterna.*

*Shift: -3 Red & -8 Blue. Recipe: Cross Process.*

As you can see, you can get many different color casts using White Balance Shift. In fact, Fujifilm gives you over 350 different options! You can get creative and mix a White Balance Shift with a White Balance that’s other than Auto. Below you’ll find some examples of this. The specific White Balance, Shift, and Recipe are located under each picture.

*White Balance: Daylight. Shift: +2 Red & -5 Blue. Recipe: Kodachrome 64.*

*White Balance: Fluorescent 1 (Daylight Fluorescent). Shift: -3 Red & -1 Blue. Recipe: Kodak Vision3 250D.*

*White Balance: 6050K. Shift +3 Red & 0 Blue. Recipe: Kodak Ektar 100.*

*White Balance: 2650K. Shift: -1 Red & +4 Blue. Recipe: Jeff Davenport Night.*

White Balance and White Balance Shift affect black-and-white pictures, too! You can manipulate how grey tones are rendered in an image using these tools. The picture below was captured using Acros+R. The version on the left has Auto White Balance and no Shift (0 Red & 0 Blue), while the one on the right has a White Balance of 4200K and a Shift of 0 Red & +9 Blue. Otherwise these two dramatically different images have identical settings.

Below are a few more examples of combining White Balance and White Balance Shift in black-and-white pictures. The specific White Balance, Shift, and Recipe are located under each picture.

*White Balance: Auto. Shift: 0 Red & +9 Blue. Recipe: Monochrome Kodachrome.*

*White Balance: Daylight. Shift: +9 Red & -9 Blue. Recipe: Kodak Tri-X 400.*

*White Balance: 2750K. Shift: -5 Red & +5 Blue. Recipe: B&W Ifrared.*

There’s one more application of White Balance Shift that I’d like to mention: Multiple Exposure photography. One example of White Balance Shift applied to Multiple Exposures, which is the first image below, is an exposure (the “main exposure”) made without a Shift, and then a second exposure of white paper or card-stock with a Shift applied. This gives the picture a faded color-cast aesthetic. Another example, which is the second picture below, is to capture two or more (for cameras capable of more than two) exposures, changing the Shift between exposures. This creates an abstract color rendering.

*Shift: +9 Red & +9 Blue. Recipe: Faded Color.*

*Four exposures, each with a different Shift: +9 Red & -9 Blue; +9 Red & +9 Blue; -9 Red & -9 Blue; -9 Red & +9 Blue.*

Most Fujifilm cameras do not have the ability to save White Balance Shifts within Custom Presets. Most of my Film Simulation Recipes require a Shift, yet you cannot save the Shift, so each time you change Recipes you must manually adjust the Shift. This is unfortunate, but thankfully Fujifilm has fixed this issue on the X100V (review here), X-Pro3 and X-T4! If you have one of those three cameras, you can save a White Balance Shift with each Custom Preset. As much as I love the new Clarity setting, Color Chrome Effect Blue, and the new Classic Negative film simulation, my absolute favorite new feature Fujifilm has added to their cameras is the ability to save White Balance Shifts. Thank you, Fujifilm!

White Balance Shift is an amazing tool on your Fujifilm camera! Found within the White Balance Menu, it allows you to fine-tune the color cast of your pictures. You can use this tool to customize your picture aesthetics. I use it extensively in my Film Simulation Recipes, both color and black-and-white, to achieve various looks. Without White Balance Shift many of my Recipes would not be possible. You can use it subtly or dramatically, with Auto White Balance or one of the other White Balance options.

Now you know what White Balance Shift is on your Fujifilm camera and how to use it. Now it’s time to get creative with it!

Fujifilm X100V Film Simulation Recipe: Kodak Ultramax 400

Posted on August 9, 2020 by Ritchie Roesch

Empty Outdoor Seating – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V – “Kodak Ultramax 400”

This recipe is a happy accident. I was actually working on a different Kodak film simulation recipe, and this was a failed attempt. But I liked how this one looked, so I made a minor adjustment, and created this recipe, which I determined looked a heck-of-a-lot like Ultramax 400. I didn’t intentionally create an Ultramax 400 recipe, but nonetheless here it is! Sometimes it’s better to be lucky than good.

Colorful Store Decor – Layton, UT – Fujifilm X100V – “Kodak Ultramax 400”

For some of you this new recipe will be an instant favorite. I really love how it looks and plan to use it frequently. This one might be right up there with Kodachrome 64 and Portra 400 for favorite Kodak presets. A word of caution: it does require Clarity, which slows down the camera considerably. This film simulation recipe (as of this writing) is only compatible with the Fujifilm X100V, X-Pro3 and X-T4 cameras.

Classic Chrome
Dynamic Range: DR-Auto
Highlight: +1
Shadow: +1
Color: +4
Noise Reduction: -4
Sharpening: 0
Clarity: +3
Grain Effect: Strong, Large
Color Chrome Effect: Weak
Color Chrome Effect Blue: Weak
White Balance: Auto, +1 Red & -5 Blue
ISO: Auto, up to ISO 6400
Exposure Compensation: +1/3 to +1 (typically)

Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs using this new Kodak Ultramax 400 film simulation recipe on my Fujifilm X100V:

Road Construction – Clearfield, UT – Fujifilm X100V

Store Closing – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V

Urban Roses – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V

Summer Fruit Tree – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V

Ripening Peaches – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V

Wood Barrel – Layton, UT – Fujifilm X100V

Table & Chair – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V

Library Lights – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V

Contemplation – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V

Blackberry Boy – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V

End Table Succulent – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V

Math Books on a Table – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V

Kitchen Tools – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V

Quality Goods – Layton, UT – Fujifilm X100V

75 – Layton, UT – Fujifilm X100V

Table Bloom – Layton, UT – Fujifilm X100V

Fake Tulips – Layton, UT – Fujifilm X100V

Fake Flowers in Window Light – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V

See also: Film Simulation Recipes

This post contains affiliate links, and if you make a purchase using my links I’ll be compensated a small amount for it.

Fujifilm X100V Black Amazon B&H
Fujifilm X100V Silver Amazon B&H

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Fujifilm XQ1 (X-Trans II) Film Simulation Recipe: Kodachrome Without Classic Chrome

Posted on August 2, 2020 by Ritchie Roesch

Red Greens – Kaysville, UT – Fujifilm XQ1 – “Kodachrome”

I’ve made a lot of Kodachrome film simulation recipes for Fujifilm cameras (click here, here, here, here, here and here), and they’re very popular. Kodachrome was an iconic slide film made by Kodak for many, many years, so it’s no surprise that people want to get that look out of their Fujifilm camera. All of my Kodachrome recipes use Classic Chrome because it has a Kodak-esque slide film aesthetic, but some cameras don’t have Classic Chrome, such as the Fujifilm XQ1. Yes, the XQ1 is an X-Trans II camera, and most X-Trans II cameras have Classic Chrome, but this one doesn’t, only Provia, Velvia, and Astia for color images.

I created this recipe by capturing an image on my X-T1 using my Kodachrome 64 recipe for that camera, and then as best as possible recreated the look not using Classic Chrome. While I tried Velvia and Astia, I ended up using Provia. It’s a surprisingly close match, although not exact. I think you’ll like this Kodachrome recipe if your camera doesn’t have Classic Chrome.

!!! Ride !!! – Salt Lake City, UT – Fujifilm XQ1 – “Kodachrome”

Provia
Dynamic Range: DR200
Highlight: +2 (Hard)
Shadow: +1 (Medium-Hard)
Color: -2 (Low)
Sharpness: 0 (Standard)
Noise Reduction: -2 (Low)
White Balance: Daylight (Fujifilm calls it “Fine” for some reason), -1 Red & -4 Blue
ISO: Auto, up to ISO 1600
Exposure Compensation: +1/3 to +2/3 (typically)

Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs made using this “Kodachrome Without Classic Chrome” film simulation recipe on a Fujifilm XQ1:

Lights & Reflections – Kaysville, UT – Fujifilm XQ1

Flag Poles – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm XQ1

Drive Thru Gas & Wash – Kaysville, UT – Fujifilm XQ1

Flowers in a Pot on Concrete – Kaysville, UT – Fujifilm XQ1

Horse Ranch – Salt Lake City, UT – Fujifilm XQ1

Closed Umbrella, Threatening Clouds – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm XQ1

Drawing Jonathan – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm XQ1

Breakfast – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm XQ1

See also: Film Simulation Recipes

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Fujifilm XQ1 (X-Trans II) Film Simulation Recipe: Lomography Color 100

Posted on July 22, 2020 by Ritchie Roesch

Backlit Backyard Leaves – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm XQ1 – “Lomography 100”

My second attempt at a film simulation recipe for the Fujifilm XQ1, which has an X-Trans II sensor, was Lomography Color 100. I have a recipe for this film for X-Trans IV cameras, such as my X-T30, and this is a conversion of that recipe for X-Trans II cameras. Honestly, this version isn’t quite as good as the X-Trans IV version (because the newer cameras have more JPEG options), but it’s still a good all-around, everyday film simulation recipe.

As I explained in my X-Trans IV recipe, there are three and perhaps four different emulsions that have been sold under the Lomography Color 100 name. Making a recipe that matches the film is impossible for that reason. Besides, people who use this film also often use alternative techniques, such as push-processing. Lomography Color 100 can have many, many different looks; despite that, this recipe is in the general ballpark of the film.

Velvia
Dynamic Range: DR400
Highlight: +2 (Hard)
Shadow: 0 (Standard)
Color: -2 (Low)
Sharpness: 0 (Standard)
Noise Reduction: -2 (Low)
White Balance: Cloudy/Shade, -3 Red & +7 Blue
ISO: Auto, up to ISO 1600
Exposure Compensation: 0 to +1/3 (typically)

Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs made using this Lomography 100 film simulation recipe on a Fujifilm XQ1:

Green Leaves & Blue Sky – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm XQ1

Rooster Roof – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm XQ1

Promenade – Salt Lake City, UT – Fujifilm XQ1

Towing – Salt Lake City, UT – Fujifilm XQ1

Yellow Hitch – Salt Lake City, UT – Fujifilm XQ1

Rusty Ford – Salt Lake City, UT – Fujifilm XQ1

Camper Special – Salt Lake City, UT – Fujifilm XQ1

Grate Airport Bus – Salt Lake City, UT – Fujifilm XQ1

Major Award – Salt Lake City, UT – Fujifilm XQ1

Abandoned Truck Trailers – Salt Lake City, UT – Fujifilm XQ1

Graffiti Truck – Salt Lake City, UT – Fujifilm XQ1

Yucca Leaves – Salt Lake City, UT – Fujifilm XQ1

Sunlight Through The Green Tree – Salt Lake City, UT – Fujifilm XQ1

Evening Tree & Reeds – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm XQ1

Red Berries – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm XQ1

Irrigation Cover – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm XQ1

White Thistle – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm XQ1

Rocky Landscape – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm XQ1

Single Reed – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm XQ1

Reeds Reaching To The Sky – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm XQ1

Jonathan Outside – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm XQ1

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Fujifilm XQ1 (X-Trans II) Film Simulation Recipe: Cross Process

Posted on July 20, 2020 by Ritchie Roesch

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A Fuji X Weekly reader sent me his camera, a Fujifilm XQ1, so that I might create some film simulation recipes for it. For those who don’t know, the XQ1 is a premium compact-zoom that Fujifilm made six or seven years ago, and it has a 2/3″ 12-megapixel X-Trans II sensor. While the sensor is much smaller than APS-C, it has the same processor and software as other X-Trans II cameras, although it is missing some options (Classic Chrome, PRO Neg. Hi and PRO Neg. Std, for instance). I discovered that some of the X-Trans II recipes I’ve created, such as Ektachrome 100SW, Agfa Optima, Velvia and Monochrome, all work great on the XQ1. My intentions are to create some more recipes that will work on this camera, and, really, all X-Trans II cameras.

The first film simulation recipe that I created for the XQ1 (and, again, it’s compatible with all X-Trans II cameras) is Cross Process. I have a couple Cross Process recipes that I’ve created for newer camera models (here and here), but never for older models. This one was rather easy to make, and so that’s why I started with it. While I set the maximum ISO to 1600, if you are using an APS-C X-Trans II camera, I’d go as high as ISO 3200. Feel free to try this recipe on X-Trans I or Bayer cameras, if you have one of those, and see how it turns out.

Summer Evening Dream – Salt Lake City, UT – Fujifilm XQ1 – “Cross Process”

Cross processing is a technique where you develop a film in chemicals intended for another film. For example, the most common cross process is to develop color transparencies, which require the E-6 process, using color negative film chemicals, which is known as C-41 process. For slide film, the photographs typically increase in contrast and grain and the colors shift dramatically. There are other types of cross processing, as well. I’ve done cross processing before, and the results can be fun. Different films will look different when they are cross processed. Overexposing or underexposing or even how the development is handled can effect how the image is rendered. The aesthetic can vary significantly, but usually you can spot a cross processed photograph when you see it.

Provia
Dynamic Range: DR200
Highlight: +2 (Hard)
Shadow: +2 (Hard)
Color: +2 (High)
Sharpness: -1 (Medium-Soft)
Noise Reduction: -2 (Low)
White Balance: Auto, -3 Red & -9 Blue
ISO: Auto, up to ISO 1600
Exposure Compensation: +1/3 (typically)

Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs made using this Cross Process film simulation recipe on a Fujifilm XQ1:

SkyWest Sunset – Salt Lake City, UT – Fujifilm XQ1

Eagle TT-12 – Salt Lake City, UT – Fujifilm XQ1

SkyWest Carts – Salt Lake City, UT – Fujifilm XQ1

Ford Truck – Salt Lake City, UT – Fujifilm XQ1

Ranger – Salt Lake City, UT – Fujifilm XQ1

Warehouse Deliveries – Salt Lake City, UT – Fujifilm XQ1

Stop! – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm XQ1

Cross Process Red Roses – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm XQ1

Yellow Stump – Salt Lake City, UT – Fujifilm XQ1

Sand Toys Without Sand – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm XQ1

Spirit of Photography – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm XQ1

Blessed – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm XQ1

Message From Space – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm XQ1

Green Leaves – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm XQ1

See also: Film Simulation Recipes

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Fujifilm X100V Film Simulation Recipe: The Rockwell (Velvia)

Posted on July 18, 2020 by Ritchie Roesch

Abandoned Dream – Red Rock Lakes NWR, MT – Fujifilm X100V – “The Rockwell”

Ken Rockwell likes to say that Fujifilm cameras aren’t good for landscape photography because the JPEG colors aren’t “wild” enough for him. Even on his review of the X100V, he says, “The as-shot JPG color palette and contrasts are quite sedate,” and, “the X100V won’t amp-up colors if they aren’t strong to begin with.” He adds, “The Velvia film simulation modes don’t look any better; certainly not like real Velvia.” He’s entitled to his opinion, but I think he just hasn’t used the “right” recipe, and he might change his mind if he did. This recipe is one that Ken Rockwell might approve of, as it’s inspired by him, and that’s why I call it The Rockwell.

Ken mentions that the Velvia film simulation isn’t like real Velvia, and he means Velvia 50. There are, in fact, a few different films that share the Velvia name. Straight out of the box, the film simulation differs a little from the film. My X-T30 Velvia recipe is intended to get the film simulation closer to actual Velvia 50 film. “The Rockwell” recipe is also in the ballpark of Velvia 50 film, although it might actually exceed it. I’ve heard it said that Fujifilm’s short lived Fortia film (which Color Chrome Effect and Color Chrome Effect Blue are inspired by), which is like Velvia 50 on steroids, was a mistake. Supposedly it (or at least the original Fortia 50) was a botched Velvia run, but instead of trashing it Fujifilm sold it as a new film. This recipe isn’t as crazy as Fortia, but it’s every bit as crazy as Velvia 50 and perhaps slightly more. Another film that is in the general vicinity of this aesthetic is Kodak’s Ektachrome 100VS, which was essentially Kodak’s closest film to Velvia, but this recipe is a little off from that film. No, “The Rockwell” isn’t an exact match to any film, it’s just a recipe that Ken might use on his X100V if he ever read this article.

Gibbon Falls – Yellowstone NP, WY – Fujifilm X100V – “The Rockwell”

This film simulation recipe is definitely not for everyone. Just like the person it was named after, it’s bold yet sometimes over-the-top. Many of you will find it to be much too much for your photography. But some of you are going to love it. In the right situations, this recipe is stunning! It uses Clarity, which slows down the camera considerably, but this is a recipe that you might want to work slow with anyway, so it should be alright. This recipe is only compatible (as if this writing) with the X100V, X-Pro3 and X-T4.

Velvia
Dynamic Range: DR200
Highlight: -1
Shadow: -1
Color: +4
Noise Reduction: -4
Sharpening: +4
Clarity: +5
Grain Effect: Weak, Small
Color Chrome Effect: Strong
Color Chrome Effect Blue: Strong
White Balance: Auto, +1 Red & -1 Blue
ISO: Auto, up to ISO 6400
Exposure Compensation: +1/3 to +2/3 (typically)

Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs using this “The Rockwell” film simulation recipe on my Fujifilm X100V:

Lake McDonald Shore Trees – Glacier National Park, MT – Fujifilm X100V

Driftwood Shore – Glacier National Park, MT – Fujifilm X100V

McDonald Lake & Rocks – Glacier National Park, MT – Fujifilm X100V

Lake McDonald – Glacier National Park, MT – Fujifilm X100V

Flathead Lake – Flathead Lake, MT – Fujifilm X100V

Clear Blue Water – Glacier National Park, MT – Fujifilm X100V

Tree & Snake River – Idaho Falls, ID – Fujifilm X100V

McDonald Creek Behind Pines – Glacier National Park, MT – Fujifilm X100V

Trees Obscuring the River – Glacier National Park, MT – Fujifilm X100V

McDonald Creek – Glacier National Park, MT – Fujifilm X100V

Green Trees – Glacier National Park, MT – Fujifilm X100V

Forest Flowers – Glacier National Park, MT – Fujifilm X100V

Lake Daisies – Flathead Lake, MT – Fujifilm X100V

Blossomed Bush by the Lake – Flathead Lake, MT – Fujifilm X100V

Upper Red Rock Lake – Red Rock Lakes NWR, MT – Fujifilm X100V

Red Lake Light – Flathead Lake, MT – Fujifilm X100V

Morning Rays – Canyon Ferry Lake, MT – Fujifilm X100V

Sunset Through The Trees – Island Park, ID – Fujifilm X100V

Aspen Sunstar – Island Park, ID – Fujifilm X100V

Johnny Sack Cabin – Island Park, ID – Fujifilm X100V

Hanging Flower Pot – Big Sky, MT – Fujifilm X100V

Mountain Wildflowers 1 – Red Rock Lakes NWR, MT – Fujifilm X100V

Mountain Wildflowers 2 – Red Rock Lakes NWR, MT – Fujifilm X100V

Rural Blossoms – Island Park, ID – Fujifilm X100V

Mountain Springtime – Island Park, ID – Fujifilm X100V

Blossom by the River – Island Park, ID – Fujifilm X100V

River Grass – Island Park, ID – Fujifilm X100V

Grassy Hills – Wild Horse Island State Park, MT – Fujifilm X100V

Pine in the Field – Wild Horse Island State Park, MT – Fujifilm X100V

Abandoned Rural Building – Wild Horse Island State Park, MT – Fujifilm X100V

Pop of Color Cabin – Polebridge, MT – Fujifilm X100V

Birdhouse Fence – Island Park, ID – Fujifilm X100V

Playground at the Edge of Nowhere – Island Park, ID – Fujifilm X100V

Hot Water – Yellowstone National Park, WY – Fujifilm X100V

Blue Eye – Yellowstone National Park, WY – Fujifilm X100V

Red Rock Turtle – Island Park, ID – Fujifilm X100V

Colorful Pallets – Bozeman, MT – Fujifilm X100V

Westfield – Idaho Falls, ID – Fujifilm X100V

Pink – Island Park, ID – Fujifilm X100V

Stop for the Pink Bus – Silos, MT – Fujifilm X100V

18 – Silos, MT – Fujifilm X100V

Stop Here – Yellowstone National Park, WY – Fujifilm X100V

Blue Trailer – Rexburg, ID – Fujifilm X100V

Grease Work – Rexburg, ID – Fujifilm X100V

See also: Film Simulation Recipes

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Fujifilm X-T20 (X-Trans III) Film Simulation Recipe: Cine Teal

Posted on June 25, 2020 by Ritchie Roesch

Garden Flowers Bloomed – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T20 – “Cine Teal”

My Fujifilm X100V “Cine Teal” film simulation recipe has been a lot more popular than I expected it to be. It requires the Eterna film simulation, plus some other settings only found on the newest Fujifilm models. I’ve been asked by a few people to create a “Cine Teal” recipe for X-Trans III cameras, which don’t have that film simulation and those new options, so I did! This recipe woks best during the “Blue Hour” of dusk and dawn, in shade and on overcast days.

PRO Neg. Std
Dynamic Range: DR400
Highlight: -1
Shadow: +3
Color: -3
Noise Reduction: -3
Sharpening: -1
Grain Effect: Weak
White Balance: 4500K, +2 Red & -8 Blue
ISO: Auto up to ISO 6400
Exposure Compensation: +2/3 to +1 (typically)

Example photos, all straight-out-of-camera JPEGs captured on a Fujifilm X-T20 using this “Cine Teal” Film Simulation recipe:

Upside-Down Umbrella – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T20

Green Tree & House – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T20

Been Better – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T20

Spring Leaves – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T20

Tree Leaves Green – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T20

Lavender Bloom – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T20

Pine & Rock – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T20

These settings also work on the Fujifilm X-T30 and X-T3, just set Color Chrome Effect to Off. I captured the photographs below on my X-T30 using this “Cine Teal” film simulation recipe:

Hazy Light Through The Tree – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30

Mountain Pines – Francis Peak, UT – Fujifilm X-T30

Mountain Ridge – Francis Peak, UT – Fujifilm X-T30

Mountain Radar – Francis Peak, UT – Fujifilm X-T30

Dusting Snow & Clouds – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30

Clouds Around The Mountains – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30

Spirit of Photography – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30

Stairs & Reflection – Salt Lake City, UT – Fujifilm X-T30

Morning Light & Shadows – Salt Lake City, UT – Fujifilm X-T30

Film – Salt Lake City, UT – Fujifilm X-T30

See also: Film Simulation Recipes

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Fujifilm X100V New Feature: B&W Toning

Posted on June 14, 2020 by Ritchie Roesch

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With the X-T3 and X-T30, Fujifilm introduced black-and-white toning. With the X100V, X-Pro3 and X-T4, Fujifilm took B&W toning to a whole new level! On the X-T3 and X-T30, you have the option of 0 (for neutral), +1 through +9 for warm, and -1 through -9 for cool. On the new cameras, toning is set up more like white-balance-shift, except you can move as many as 18 spots up or down and left or right. Yes, on the X100V, there are 1,368 possible colors to tone your black-and-white pictures! You can even tone B&W video.

The up-and-down option is called “WC” for warm/cool; plus is warm, minus is cool, and 0 is neutral. The left-and-right option is called “MG” for magenta/green; plus is green, minus is magenta, and 0 is neutral. The further you get from 0, the stronger the color, and the closer you get to 0, the more subtle the color. Most people will likely use subtle toning, but some will appreciate the bold options.

I think there is the potential for some very creative uses of this new feature, especially when paired with multiple exposure photography. I haven’t explored the possibilities yet, but I will! If you are a fan of toning your black-and-white pictures, you’ll love this new option. The only thing missing is split-toning, which Fujifilm very well might add on future models—I hope so, anyway! In the meantime, I’ll explore the potential of this new toning feature on the X100V.

Examples of black-and-white toning on the Fujifilm X100V:

WC 0 MG 0

WC +5 MG 0

WC +5 MG +5

WC 0 MG +5

WC -5 MG +5

WC -5 MG 0

WC -5 MG -5

WC 0 MG -5

WC +5 MG -5

WC +18 MG 0

WC +18 MG +18

WC 0 MG +18

WC -18 MG +18

WC -18 MG 0

WC -18 MG -18

WC 0 MG -18

WC +18 MG -18

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My Fujifilm X100V Cine Teal Film Simulation Recipe

Posted on June 8, 2020 by Ritchie Roesch

Red Lights & Raindrops – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V – “Cine Teal”

Baseball legend Lefty Gomez said, “I’d rather be lucky than good.” This particular film simulation recipe was a failure, but it was a lucky failure. I’ve been trying to create a Kodak Vision3 500T recipe, but I can’t get it right. I’ve tried a number of different combinations of settings, but I haven’t cracked the code (yet). This was one attempt. Under the right light, it does resemble Vision3 500T, but under most conditions it does not. Even though it was a failure, I like the look of this recipe, so I thought I’d share it with you.

I call this new film simulation recipe “Cine Teal” because it looks a bit cinematic thanks to the Eterna film simulation, and has a teal, green or yellow cast, depending on the light. This recipe looks best when used in the “blue hour” of dusk or dawn, and does well in shade and on overcast days. It can be used in other situations, but the results tend to be so-so, although you can still get interesting pictures sometimes. This recipe is a little limited in where it works best, but in the right situations it can look very nice. It’s not for everyone, but some of you will really appreciate it.

Sunlit Tree Leaves – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V – “Cine Teal”

Because this film simulation recipe requires the use of Clarity, it will slow your camera down considerably. Fujifilm suggests, if you shoot RAW+JPEG, to add Clarity later by reprocessing the RAW file in-camera or with X RAW Studio. I just use the pause to slow myself down. This recipe is only compatible (as of this writing) with the Fujifilm X100V, X-Pro3 and X-T4.

Eterna
Dynamic Range: DR200
Highlight: -2
Shadow: +4
Color: -1
Noise Reduction: -4
Sharpening: -2
Clarity: -5
Grain Effect: Weak, Large
Color Chrome Effect: Weak
Color Chrome Effect Blue: Strong
White Balance: 4550K, +1 Red & -9 Blue
ISO: Auto, up to ISO 6400
Exposure Compensation: 0 to +2/3 (typically)

Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs using this “Cine Teal” film simulation recipe on my Fujifilm X100V:

Small Garden Flowers – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V

Roses Red – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V

Roses are Red – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V

Waiting Wishes – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V

Subtle Rays – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V

Cloud & Half Moon – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V

Suburban Cloud – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V

Evening House – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V

Shadow of Self – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V

Apple & Bike – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V

Masked Man – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V

Urban Blossoms – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V

Evergreen – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V

Small Table & Chairs – Orem, UT – Fujifilm X100V

Grand Girl – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V

Mischievous Smile – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V

Learning to Play – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V

Lights Off – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V

Coffee Table – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V

Asian Decor – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V

Dining – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V

Hood Ornament – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V

Open for Business – Orem, UT – Fujifilm X100V

FedEx – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V

Movie Theater – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V

This post contains affiliate links, and if you make a purchase using my links I’ll be compensated a small amount for it.

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See also: Film Simulation Recipes

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Fujifilm X100V New Feature: Clarity

Posted on May 24, 2020 by Ritchie Roesch

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49896039986_4e25d72713_c

The Fujifilm X100V has a new feature called Clarity. It actually first appeared on the X-Pro3, and it’s also on the new X-T4, but the X100V is the first camera that I’ve used with it. I’m always very happy whenever Fujifilm gives us new JPEG options, as it allows me to more accurately achieve the look that I’m after in-camera. I can create better film simulation recipes when I’m given more tools, and the X100V indeed has some new tools.

If you’ve ever done RAW processing, you’ve probably seen a Clarity tool within your software of choice. Maybe you use it all of the time, maybe you’ve never touched it. What exactly Clarity does with each software is slightly different, but the gist of it is that it increases mid-tone contrast, while (mostly) leaving the highlights and shadows untouched. This makes the image appear more contrasty while not blocking up shadows or blowing out highlights. Because Clarity often adds micro-contrast (contrast to fine lines), it can make an image appear to be sharper and more finely detailed than it actually is. Some software programs include sharpening within Clarity. Too much Clarity can often make a picture look unnatural and “over baked”.

I like the idea of having a Clarity option on my Fujifilm camera, but I was really unsure of how it would look. Is it actually a good tool? Does it produce pleasing results? Where should I set it on my camera?

In the manual Fujifilm states that Clarity increases or decreases “definition” while minimally altering highlights and shadows. The camera has the options of -5 to +5, with 0 being the default setting. Let’s take a look at some examples to see what exactly this new feature does to photographs.

Clarity -5

Clarity 0

Clarity +5

You can see from the photographs above that there’s a noticeable difference between Clarity set at -5, 0 and +5. There’s a significant contrast difference between the three pictures. Even highlights and shadows are affected. The first picture looks “soft” while the third picture boarders being “over-baked” with too much definition. Let’s take a closer look at some crops, and add -2 and +2 while we’re at it.

Clarity -5

Clarity -2

Clarity 0

Clarity +2

Clarity +5

When you look closely, you can appreciate using minus Clarity for softening skin. At -2 there’s a small difference, but by -5 there’s a big difference. The X100V has a new lens, and it’s sharper, especially when wide open. Some people (myself included) appreciated the softness of f/2 on the old X100 series lens for artistic effect, but the X100V is tack sharp across the board at all apertures. However, -5 Clarity will give a similar softness at any aperture as the old X100 lens does at f/2. Portrait photographers might especially appreciate selecting a minus Clarity option, and somewhere in the range of -2 to -5 seems to be nice.

On the other side, +5 Clarity is definitely too much for some circumstances, particularly portraits. Even +2 might be pushing it in this case, although the results are acceptable in my book. I find that minus Clarity is better when skin is involved, but you can use plus Clarity for more dramatic portraits, although I’d limit it to no higher than +3, unless you’re trying to accentuate something like wrinkled skin and a greying beard, in which case up to +5 might be acceptable. Outside of portraits, I like adding Clarity, and I find that +2 or +3 is a good range for me.

Here are some more examples:

Clarity -5

Clarity -3

Clarity 0

Clarity +3

Clarity +5

Clarity -5

Clarity -3

Clarity 0

Clarity +3

Clarity +5

The difference between -5 and +5 Clarity is pretty significant, but the in-between differences aren’t huge. It’s difficult to notice a plus or minus one difference. Going up or down two spots is a bit more obvious, although if you’re not closely comparing side-by-side examples you might not pick up on it. I think you’re perfectly fine selecting any of the Clarity options, but for portraits I’d consider using minus Clarity, unless you’re want a dramatic portrait look. For everything else adding a little Clarity helps the picture to pop more. I personally like Clarity set at +2.

Because Clarity adds contrast and does affect highlights and shadows, if you go higher than +3 Clarity, consider decreasing Highlight and Shadow by one to compensate. Also, if you go lower than -3 Clarity, consider increasing Highlight and Shadow by one to compensate. The X-T4 can do .5 Highlight and Shadow adjustments (please, Fujifilm, update the X100V to allow this, too), and that’s probably closer to what you need to compensate for the increased or decreased contrast due to selecting the far ends of Clarity. Just be aware that when you change the Clarity setting, you are changing the picture’s contrast.

+3 Clarity

Something that I need to point out is that when Clarity is set to anything other than 0, it takes the camera longer to save the file. Fujifilm actually recommends setting Clarity to 0 and adding it later by reprocessing the RAW files in-camera. If you need to shoot quickly, this might be a good option, but if you’re not in a hurry, I’d just set it to what you want it to be so that you don’t have to change it later. Yes, it does slow you down, but if you’re not in a hurry, it’s not a big deal.

In my opinion Fujifilm did a good job of implementing Clarity on the X100V. It’s a useful tool. Those who appreciated the softness of f/2 on the older models will appreciate using minus Clarity on the new model. Those who want to add just a little more punch to their pictures will like using plus Clarity. Each situation might benefit from a Clarity adjustment, and you’ll have to decide which setting is the best for the scene. Whether it’s adding or subtracting Clarity, this is a feature you’ll find me using often. Fujifilm’s inclusion of Clarity on the X100V is something that I’m extremely happy with.

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My Fujifilm X-T30 Kodak Vision3 250D Film Simulation Recipe

Posted on May 11, 2020 by Ritchie Roesch

Ice Cream Trailer – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30 “Kodak Vision3 250D”

A Fuji X Weekly reader asked me to create a film simulation recipe that mimics Kodak Vision3 250D motion picture film. Kodak introduced Vision3 250D in 2009. While it’s a color negative motion picture film, it can also be used for still photography. I’ve never used this film, but as I researched it, I came to realize that this one film can produce many different looks, depending on how it’s shot and developed. In fact, you can develop it using either the C-41 or ECN-2 process, and you can even develop it as black-and-white. You can push-process several stops. There’s a lot of latitude for over and under exposure.

As you can imagine, it would be impossible to create a film simulation recipe that mimics every possible look from this film, or even most. I focused in on one specific aesthetic, although I can’t say for sure how that aesthetic was achieved, and made a recipe that mimics it. I think I came pretty darn close. Perhaps more importantly, these settings look good. There’s a certain quality to the pictures made using this recipe that’s especially lovely. Some of you are really going to love these settings!

Flowers on a Tree Branch – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30 “Kodak Vision3 250D”

Since Kodak Vision3 250D is a motion picture film, I had fun using this film simulation recipe in the 16:9 aspect ratio from time-to-time because it is a more cinematic shape. If you used the film for still photography, most likely the frame would be a 3:2 aspect ratio, which is what I chose for most of these pictures. You can choose any aspect ratio that you’d like. If you have an X-H1, which doesn’t have Color Chrome Effect but does have Eterna, you can still use this recipe, but the results will be slightly different.

Eterna
Dynamic Range: DR100
Highlight: +3
Shadow: +4
Color: +3
Noise Reduction: -4
Sharpening: -2
Grain Effect: Strong
Color Chrome Effect: Strong
White Balance: Fluorescent 1 (Daylight Fluorescent), -3 Red & -1 Blue
ISO: Auto up to ISO 6400
Exposure Compensation: +1/3 to +2/3 (typically)

Below are all camera-made JPEGs captured using this Kodak Vision3 250D Film Simulation recipe on my Fujifilm X-T30 camera:

Blue Bokeh – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30

Nighttime Fire Hydrant – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30

Yellow Tree – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30

Lights Strung Across The Road – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30

Forever the Perfect Accessory – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30

Artificial Light Rays – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30

Reserved Parking – Syracuse, UT – Fujifilm X-T30

Grass by a Waterfall – Syracuse, UT – Fujifilm X-T30

Three Ducks – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30

Pond – Syracuse, UT – Fujifilm X-T30

Tree & Purple Flowers – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30

Green Leaves & White Blooms – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30

Webs in the Grass – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30

Sky Reeds – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30

Clouds & Roof – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30

Chopped Logs – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30

Fake Flower Decor – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30

Shy & Uninterested – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30

Sunglasses Indoors – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30

Boy in Evening Light – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30

Beans in the Grinder – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30

See also: Film Simulation Recipes

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My Fujifilm X-T30 Kodak Portra 400 Film Simulation Recipe

Posted on May 10, 2020 by Ritchie Roesch

Around The Bend – Layton, UT – Fujifilm X-T30 “Kodak Portra 400”

Portra 400, which is a color negative film, was introduced by Kodak in 1998. It was redesign in 2006 and again in 2010. As the name implies, it’s intended for portrait photography, but can be used for many other types of photography. It’s similar to Portra 160, but with more contrast, saturation and grain. Believe it or not, ISO 400 was considered “high ISO” by many photographers back in the film days, and Portra 400 was one of the absolute best “high ISO” color films ever made. Like all films, results can vary greatly depending on how it’s shot, developed and printed or scanned, and even which version of the film you’re talking about. Interestingly, Kodak briefly made a black-and-white version of Portra 400!

I’ve been meaning to revisit Kodak Portra 400 for some time now. As you may know, I already have a Kodak Portra 400 recipe, which I created two years ago, but it requires a difficult-to-achieve custom white balance measurement. I was never really satisfied with that recipe, even though it can produce interesting results. I have been eager to create a new Portra 400 recipe, and, In fact, I’ve tried a couple of times, but without success.

Blue Sky Day – Syracuse, UT – Fujifilm X-T30 “Kodak Portra 400”

A Fuji X Weekly reader suggested to me that if I use my Kodak Portra 160 recipe, except increase Shadow, Highlight and Color by one, that should be pretty close to Portra 400. Indeed it is! I liked what I saw, but I played around with the settings more to see if I could improve on it. Turns out not much needed to be tweaked. I liked the results better with Color Chrome Effect set to Strong, but if you have an X-Trans III camera, which doesn’t have that feature, you can still use this recipe, but it will look slightly different. The only other change that I made was I set Grain to Strong.

Classic Chrome
Dynamic Range: DR-Auto
Highlight: -1
Shadow: -1
Color: +2
Noise Reduction: -4
Sharpening: -2
Grain Effect: Strong
Color Chrome Effect: Strong
White Balance: Daylight, +4 Red & -5 Blue
ISO: Auto, up to ISO 6400
Exposure Compensation: +2/3 to +1 (typically)

Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs using this Kodak Portra 400 film simulation recipe on my Fujifilm X-T30:

Mountain in the Evening Light – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30

Reeds To The Sky – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30

Jensen Pond – Syracuse, UT – Fujifilm X-T30

Water Beyond The Trees – Layton, UT – Fujifilm X-T30

Paved Trail – Layton, UT – Fujifilm X-T30

Spring Green & White – Layton, UT – Fujifilm X-T30

Fries in the Sky – Syracuse, UT – Fujifilm X-T30

Royal Lunch – Layton, UT – Fujifilm X-T30

Evening Suburban Home – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30

Boy in the Striped Light – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30

Boy Sitting – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30

Sunlight Through The Pink Blooms – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30

Pink Tree Bloom – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30

See also: Film Simulation Recipes

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My Fujifilm X-T30 Kodacolor II 126 Film Simulation Recipe

Posted on April 28, 2020 by Ritchie Roesch

Blooming Pink – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30 “Kodacolor II 126”

A Fuji X Weekly reader asked me to recreate the look of some old family prints from the 1970’s that he found. After some investigating, it was determined that the pictures were captured on an Instamatic camera using 126 film (also called Kodapak). 126 film was basically 35mm film, except with a paper back and no sprockets (like 120 film), and in a cartridge that didn’t need to be rewound (similar to 110 film). It was intended for low-budget point-and-shoot cameras, and the cartridge made loading and unloading film easier. Basically, Instamatic was Kodak’s attempt to open up photography to the masses, as it required little to no skill or photographic background. It was very popular in the 1960’s and ’70’s, and became less popular in the 1980’s. A quirk of Instamatic cameras and 126 film is that it captured square pictures.

It’s unknown what film was used on the pictures in question, but most likely it was Kodacolor II, which was by far the most popular color 126 film during the time that these pictures were captured. Kodacolor is a name that Kodak gave to a number of different color negative films going back to the 1940’s. Kodacolor II was the very first C-41 process film. It was introduced in 1972 and discontinued in 1981, replaced by Kodacolor VR, which is the film that my Kodacolor film simulation recipe resembles. The prints likely have some fading and color shifts due to age, but they appeared to be in good condition overall.

Instamatic – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30 “Kodacolor II 126”

This film simulation recipe, which I’ve called Kodacolor II 126, is a bit unusual in that it is supposed to mimic a look that came from cheap cameras. It calls for Image Quality to be set to Normal instead of Fine (I normally use Fine). The only other recipe that I’ve done this with is my Kodak Elite Chrome 200 Color Fade. I keep the ISO high on this recipe to make it look more grainy. While I’ve done that with several black-and-white recipes, this is the first time I’ve done it with color. This is also the only recipe that calls for the 1:1 aspect ratio, although feel free to use 3:2 or 16:9 if you’d like. These settings pair well with vintage lenses, and if you “miss” focus a little sometimes, well, that just makes it resemble Instamatic even more.

Classic Chrome
Dynamic Range: DR200
Highlight: -1
Shadow: +3
Color: -4
Noise Reduction: -4
Sharpening: -4
Grain Effect: Strong
Color Chrome Effect: Strong
Image Quality: Normal
Aspect Ratio: 1:1
White Balance: 6300K, +6 Red & +3 Blue
ISO: 3200 – 6400
Exposure Compensation: 0 to +2/3 (typically)

Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs using this “Kodacolor II 126” film simulation recipe on my Fujifilm X-T30:

Polaroid Girl – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30

Lizard, Boy & Wall – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30

Boy in the Alley – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30

Two Cans – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30

Suburban House & Tree – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30

Suburban Trees & Distant Mountain – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30

Tree Top & Mountain Top – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30

Suburban April – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30

Robot in the Window – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30

Heart & Soul – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30

Wreath & Flowers – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30

White Paper – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30

Bowl on a Trike – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30

Hose & Elephant – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30

Concrete Path – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30

Little Colorful Chair – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30

Summer Chair – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30

Day Dreaming – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30

See also: Film Simulation Recipes

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All About Aspect Ratios

Posted on April 27, 2020 by Ritchie Roesch

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Your Fujifilm X camera has three aspect ratio options: 3:2, 16:9 and 1:1. You can see an example of each of those above. Have you ever wondered which one to use? Why these three? Why not others? Should you crop to a different aspect ratio? What do the numbers mean? I hope to answer these questions and more in this article!

Before moving on, I want to quickly discuss the aspect ratio numbers and what they mean. For instance, what does 3:2 stand for? It’s math, and it means that one side of the picture is 3 parts long (whatever the measure), and the other is two. It’s the shape of the image, and the shape matters when you print. A 3:2 image can be printed 4″ x 6″ without cropping, as well as 8″ x 12″, 12″ x 18″, 16″ x 24″ and 20″ x 30″. If you want to print at those sizes and don’t want to crop, the 3:2 aspect ratio is the right shape for you. The shape also matters for composition. What might look great with one aspect ratio might not with another. You will likely compose your pictures differently depending on the shape.

Let’s take a look at each of the three aspect ratios that Fujifilm gives you, plus some other common aspect ratios not found on your camera.

3:2

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The 3:2 aspect ratio is the native ratio on your Fujifilm X camera, and that’s because it’s the shape of the sensor. It’s the common aspect ratio of full-frame and APS-C sensor cameras, and it’s also the aspect ratio of 35mm film. The 3:2 aspect ratio is one of the most used, if not the most used, aspect ratios in digital photography. It’s a very familiar shape that most of us use every day, and it conveniently matches a number of different print sizes.

While the 3:2 aspect ratio is a very common shape, for some it’s too wide, and for others not wide enough. There are other shapes that might suite your photography better.

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16:9

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The 16:9 aspect ratio might seem cinematic, and that’s because it’s the shape of wide-screen televisions. When you watch your favorite TV show or movie at home, you likely view it in this aspect ratio. This is a common shape for video.

While mainly intended for video, the 16:9 aspect ratio can be used for still photography. The long, thin proportions are almost panoramic, and can be especially great for landscape photography. In order to create this shape, your camera crops a little off the top and bottom of the image and doesn’t use the whole sensor.

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1:1

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The 1:1 aspect ratio is square, but that doesn’t mean it’s lame. In fact, it’s the original shape of Instagram. The square picture has been around nearly as long as photography itself. There have been numerous cameras over the years that capture square images, including many 120 and 126 film cameras.

Magazine and newspaper editors used to prefer square pictures because they could crop them tall or wide, whatever would best fit the available space. On your Fujifilm X camera, some of the picture is cropped off the ends to make it square, so it doesn’t use the whole sensor.

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5:4

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The 5:4 aspect ratio is not found on your Fujifilm X camera. In fact, none of the rest are, only the first three. In order to get this shape, which is almost square, you’ll need to crop your picture using software.

This aspect ratio is from large format film, which commonly come in 4″ x 5″ or 8″ x 10″ sheets. You might note that this is the shape of 8″ x 10″ and 16″ x 20″ prints, which are common sizes. While it’s not unusual to print in this aspect ratio, it is a bit unusual to find a camera that captures it.

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4:3

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The 4:3 aspect ratio, which has its origins in medium format film, is very common. Most digital cameras with sensors larger than full frame or smaller than APS-C use this aspect ratio, including Fujifilm GFX. It’s not as wide as 3:2, but wider than 5:4. I wish that Fujifilm offered this as an option on their X-Trans models. Since they don’t, if you want to use the 4:3 aspect ratio you’ll have to crop using software. If you print poster-sized, you might make a 30″ x 40″ print; otherwise, the 4:3 aspect ratio will require some cropping to print common sizes.

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7:5

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The 7:5 aspect ratio is very uncommon. It’s a not-especially-popular large format film size. You can make 5″ x 7″ prints, too. Outside of that, this is a pretty much forgotten aspect ratio. With that said, it’s a nice in-between to the 3:2 and 4:3 ratios, which might make it a good option if you’re looking for something different.

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Your Fujifilm X camera has 3:2 as its standard aspect ratio, which is good because it won’t require cropping for many common print sizes. You also have the option of 16:9 if you want a wide picture, or 1:1 if you want a square picture, although the camera won’t use the whole sensor. Any other aspect ratio will require you to crop using software. You can make a picture any shape you want, but the more uncommon the aspect ratio, the more difficult it might be to print. Still, that shouldn’t stop you if that’s what you want to do. It can be tricky to discover what aspect ratio works best for your photography, so if you aren’t sure, I invite you to try different shapes until you find what you like best. You might find that you appreciate different shapes for different subjects or situations. There’s no one-size-fits-all aspect ratio, but the 3:2 aspect ratio is one-size-fits-most, which makes it ideal to have as the shape of your sensor.

[Not] My Fujifilm X-T30 Ilford Delta Push-Process Film Simulation Recipe

Posted on April 24, 2020 by Ritchie Roesch

Boy in a Chair with a Phone – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30 “Ilford Delta Push-Process”

When I shot film, Ilford Delta was my go-to for black-and-white photography. Sure, I used other films, but Ilford Delta was what I most often loaded into my camera. For fine-grain, I used Delta 100. For situations other than bright daylight, or if I wanted more contrast and grittiness, I would choose Delta 400. For dim light, I would on a rare occasion use Delta 3200. Sometimes I would push-process the Delta 100 and Delta 400 a stop or two. I actually still have a couple rolls of Delta film sitting around, although I haven’t shot much film in the last few years. The last roll of Ilford Delta that I shot was Delta 3200.

Something that people might not be aware of is that Delta 3200 is actually not an ISO 3200 film, it’s actually rated at ISO 1000, but has “built-in” push-processing to ISO 3200 (labs know to increase the development time unless you specify otherwise). Ilford Delta films have a lot of latitude and flexibility. There’s a lot that one can do in the lab with any of the Ilford Delta films to customize the contrast and grain.

Fuji X Weekly reader K. Adam Christensen shared with me his film simulation recipe for Ilford Delta 3200, and I really like the way that his recipe looks. It’s a great black-and-white recipe! I made a couple of small tweaks to it, nothing big. Adam uses this recipe on his X100V, and he sets Grain to Large, which is an option on that camera, as well as the X-Pro3 and X-T4, but not on my X-T30. If I could set Grain to Large I would, as that would better mimic Delta 3200. Without it, perhaps these settings more resemble Delta 3200 shot and developed at ISO 1600. It reminds me of Delta 400 pushed one stop or maybe a stop and a half.

White House Beyond the Thistle – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30 “Ilford Delta Push-Process”

I have the ISO on this recipe set at 12800, which makes it difficult (but not impossible) to use in daylight situations. It’s a little easier on X100 cameras that have a built-in neutral density filter. If you need to drop the ISO, you can go as low as ISO 3200 and still get good results, but for best results keep the ISO at 12800 as much as possible. All of the pictures in this article were shot at ISO 12800.

Monochrome (+Y, +R, +G)
Dynamic Range: DR400
Highlight: 0
Shadow: +3
Grain: Strong
Color Chrome Effect: Off
Toning: 0
Sharpening: -3
Noise Reduction: -4
Exposure Compensation: +1/3 to +2/3 (typically)
ISO 12800

Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs using this Ilford Delta Push-Process film simulation recipe on my Fujifilm X-T30:

FED 5C & Industar 69 – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30

Phone Numbers – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30

Girl, Smile – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30

Broccoli – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30

Faux Leaves – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30

Glass Bottles with Stems – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30

Flowers Waiting to Pot – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30

Potted Tulip – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30

White Tulips at Night – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30

Outdoor Shelf – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30

Dirty Feet – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30

Roller Skating – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30

Skates – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30

Girl Outdoor – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30

Two Feet – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30

Chair Shadow – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30

Blackberry Vine on Concrete – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30

Watering Plant – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30

Wet Handlebar – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30

Raindrops on a Window – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30

See also: Film Simulation Recipes

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My Fujifilm X-T30 Kodak Gold 200 Film Simulation Recipe

Posted on April 16, 2020 by Ritchie Roesch

Crown Burger – Layton, UT – Fujifilm X-T30 “Kodak Gold 200”

I’ve been asked countless times to create a Kodak Gold film simulation recipe. I’ve tried several times to make one, but I couldn’t get it quite right. Last week I was scrolling through Instagram and I saw a picture that I thought at first glance was captured using my Portra 160 recipe. It’s not unusual to see pictures that were captured using my different recipes, as some of them have become quite popular. It was an interesting picture, so I took my time looking at it, and as I did I thought that there was just too much saturation, contrast and grain for it to be my Portra recipe, yet it was still very similar. When I read the description I realized that the picture was captured with actual Kodak Gold 200 film! At that moment I knew that I could create a Gold recipe simply by modifying the Portra recipe.

Kodak Gold, which was introduced in the late-1980’s and is still around today, is a general purpose color negative film. It was originally called Kodacolor VR-G, then Kodacolor Gold, and finally Gold. It replaced Kodacolor VR. While the film has been improved a few times over the years, it still looks pretty much the same today as it did in the 1980’s. The film is prone to color shifts, and results can vary significantly depending on how the picture was shot, developed and printed or scanned.

Flowing Farmington Creek – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30 “Kodak Gold 200”

Even though this Kodak Gold film simulation recipe is very similar to my Portra recipe, it took many experiments to get it right. I tried different combinations of Highlight, Shadow and Color before settling on these settings. I adjusted the white balance shift several times before returning to the same shift as Portra 160. I feel that this recipe is a good facsimile to actual Gold film, although, like all recipes, it will never be exact, as it cannot account for all the variables. It’s pretty close, though, in my opinion. I want to give a special thank-you to Fuji X Weekly reader Piotr Skrzypek for creating the original Portra 160 recipe for X-Trans II, which allowed me to make one for X-Trans III & IV cameras, which in turn made this Kodak Gold 200 recipe possible. This recipe is compatible with X-Trans III & IV cameras.

Classic Chrome
Dynamic Range: DR-Auto
Highlight: -2
Shadow: +1
Color: +3
Noise Reduction: -4
Sharpening: -2
Grain Effect: Strong
Color Chrome Effect: Off
White Balance: Daylight, +4 Red & -5 Blue
ISO: Auto, up to ISO 6400
Exposure Compensation: +2/3 to +1 1/3 (typically)

Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs using this Kodak Gold 200 film simulation recipe on my Fujifilm X-T30: