My Fujifilm X100VI arrived in the mail yesterday. Eagerly I opened the box, pulled out the X100V (but with an “I” after the “V”), placed a freshly charged battery inside, inserted an SD Card, programmed my C1-C7 custom settings presets, and went out shooting. The main reason why I wanted the X100VI was for the brand-new Reala Ace film simulation. I think a big reason why Fujifilm cameras are so in-demand right now are the film simulations and the many Film Simulation Recipes that can achieve various film-like looks straight-out-of-camera, no editing needed. Anytime that Fujifilm adds a new film sim is a good time, and is always a top reason for myself to spend money on a new camera that I don’t actually need.
My very first impression of the X100VI is that it’s an X100V. The two models are identical twins at initial glance. That’s not a bad thing whatsoever, because I absolutely love my X100V; if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it. The new camera is slightly heavier (but, really, you need to have one in each hand to be able to tell), and there’s a small amount of noise when you shake the X100VI due to the IBIS inside, but otherwise there’s not a lot to distinguish the two apart. Internally, the new camera has IBIS (which I haven’t had a chance to test yet since I only used it in bright daylight so far), the 40mp X-Trans V sensor and processor, and the latest JPEG options, including Eterna Bleach Bypass, Nostalgic Neg., and Reala Ace—all of which are the largest distinctions between the old and new versions.
I tried Reala Ace right away. The new film simulation was named after Fujicolor Superia Reala Ace 100 color negative film, a version of Fujicolor Superia Reala 100 that was only sold in Japan. Reala was introduced in the late-1990’s and discontinued in 2013, and was the first Superia film (although initially it didn’t have Superia in the name), the first with their 4th emulsion layer. The Classic Negative film simulation, which is closely modeled after Superia film, is the best way to replicate Reala on your Fujifilm camera; specifically, try my Fujicolor Reala 100 Film Simulation Recipe. My Reala Ace Recipe was intended to mimic the new Reala Ace film sim using Classic Negative, but it can also be thought of as a v2 for replicating Fujicolor Reala film. Unfortunately, the new Reala Ace film simulation is not modeled after the film that it was named after.
When there are not many example photographs of a new film sim, there’s not a lot to go on for replicating it. It’s impossible to know if the samples are straight-out-of-camera with everything set to factory defaults, or if some of the parameters were adjusted, or if post-editing was done, unless the photographer discloses that. When Reala Ace was introduced on the GFX100 II, I believe that many of the samples that initially came out were post-edited to some degree (one photographer did specifically state that their’s was), and that makes sense since most GFX owners are not shooting SOOC JPEGs. My Reala Ace Recipe is probably as close as one can get to the Reala Ace film sim using Classic Negative, and is more similar to the actual film than the Reala Ace film sim is; overall, my Recipe is only a so-so match to the new film sim, and is off in several aspects.
Fujifilm placed the Reala Ace film simulation right above PRO Neg. Hi in the film sim list, and I quickly discovered why. The two PRO Neg. film simulations are not closely modeled after any emulsions, but are generally inspired by Fujifilm’s PRO lines of film, such as PRO 160S, PRO 160NS, PRO 160C, and PRO 400H. The main difference between PRO Neg. Hi and PRO Neg. Std is that the Hi version has more contrast and saturation, and the Std version has less. Reala Ace is quite similar to both PRO Neg. Std and PRO Neg. Hi, and you can more-or-less approximate the Reala Ace film sim with either. I found that PRO Neg. Std is actually the best option for replicating Reala Ace, so if your camera has PRO Neg. Std, you pretty much have Reala Ace. Fujifilm should have named the new film sim PRO Neg. C, since it is the third version of PRO Neg. (“C” is the third letter in the alphabet), and the emulsion that the new film sim is most similar to is Fujicolor PRO 160C (and not Reala).
To get close to Reala Ace (PRO Neg. C) using PRO Neg. Std, make these adjustments:
– For Reala Ace, I set both Highlight and Shadow to -0.5. Additionally, I used DR200, Grain Weak/Small, and High ISO NR -4; otherwise, everything else was factory defaults (Off, Auto, or 0).
– For PRO Neg. Std, I set Highlight to +1, Shadow to -0.5, Color to +2, Color Chrome FX Blue to Weak, DR200, and Grain Weak/Small; otherwise, everything else was factory defaults (Off, Auto, or 0).
You might question why, for example, I didn’t keep Reala Ace at Highlight/Shadow 0, and on PRO Neg. Std simply adjust Highlight to +1.5? I tried that, but for whatever reason, the changes I made are an ever-so-slightly closer match. Both are acceptable, though.
Can you guess which is Reala Ace (PRO Neg. C) and which is PRO Neg. Std in the sets below, Pic 1 or Pic 2?
There are, of course, some small differences. Reala Ace renders blue slightly deeper, but applying Color Chrome FX Blue Weak to PRO Neg. Std is a little too much to exactly match; CCEB Extra-Weak would be perfect, but that doesn’t exist. A WB Shift of -0.5 Blue (-1 Blue is too much) to PRO Neg. Std would be good if you could; I used Auto WB, but if you used Kelvin instead, you could try something like 5100K on PRO Neg. Std to replicate 5000K on Reala Ace. Setting Color to +2.5 on PRO Neg. Std would be great, but that doesn’t exist, either. There are small differences in both Highlight and Shadow rendering, but you’d need 0.25 adjustments to more accurately match them. There is a level of fine-tuning required to precisely replicate Reala Ace that’s not available on Fujifilm cameras, but you can get pretty darn close nonetheless.
The larger point is that if you want a Reala Ace (PRO Neg. C) film simulation look, all you really need is PRO Neg. Std. Simply increase Highlight by +1 and Color by +2 and you’re pretty much there—a little more fine-tuning can get you slightly closer. You can’t 100% match them, but you can get pretty darn close—nobody would be able to tell without a side-by-side comparison, and even then it’s not completely obvious without studying closely.
For those still wondering which is which in the photos above, Pic 1 in each set is PRO Neg. Std, and Pic 2 is Reala Ace. You can spot the differences when you know what to look for, but otherwise they’re very similar. Reala Ace is a little nicer at factory defaults than PRO Neg. Std, perhaps more like PRO Neg. Std that has been adjusted into a Film Simulation Recipe. I think there is potential for some new Recipes utilizing Reala Ace as the base; overall, I prefer my Reala Ace Recipe that uses Classic Negative. I am looking forward to seeing what can be done with the new film sim, so expect some Reala Ace (PRO Neg. C) Recipes soon!
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Fujifilm X100VI in black: Amazon, B&H, Moment, Wex, Nuzira
Fujifilm X100VI in silver: Amazon, B&H, Moment, Wex, Nuzira
I’ve seen scans of actual Reala Ace shot on film. And I’ve seen SOOC jpegs shot on X100VI. I prefer the looks of real film version and your own Reala Ace recipe (Xtrans5), they look more interesting and beautiful, not to mention different.
Looking forward to seeing what interesting recipes you will be developing with this new film sim.
Thanks so much for your kind input! The Reala Ace (PRO Neg. C) film sim isn’t much like the film, I think that Fujifilm just wanted to use the brand name for it for whatever reason.
Wow the x100vi arrived finally! And thanks for providing a new recipe to replicate the new film simulation. Definitely trying it (the Pro Neg.Std one) on my XT30 ii
So for the PRO Neg. Std recipe, the colour chrome effect should be off right?
So for the PRO Neg. Std recipe, the colour chrome effect should be off right?
Yes! It should be:
PRO Neg. Std
DR200
Grain Weak/Small
Color Chrome Effects Off
Color Chrome FX Blue Weak
WB Auto 0R 0B
Highlight +1
Shadow -0.5
Color +2
Sharpness 0
High ISO NR -4
Clarity 0
Nice one! Gonna rename it maybe Real Ace V2 I think, sounds better off the tongue
Sounds good 👍 😀
*Reala Ace v2
Congratulations Ritchie for your X100VI ! Welcome to the club !
I’m glad you did not wait long.
I remember having the case of migrating to next gen Fujifilm camera when Fujifilm granted them brand new film sim. Which made me update on the spot !
X-T1 to X-T2, X-T2 to X-T4 for me. Thought the IBIS on the X-T4 like the X100VI was the main decisive factor.
Like Fry in Futurama: ” Shut up and take my money!”.
Wishing you good trial with the VI, looking forward new film recipes of yours using the Reala.
🤣🤣🤣
Thanks so much for your kind words!
I like more the look of the vegetation in the new Pro Neg C than in Classic Negative, but I also like your recipe more, for everything else. But I do not feel a loss in not having the new simulation, as I would for others, Astia, Eterna, Classic Chrome, Classic Negative, Nostalgic Negative. For me, I think that is enough. Thank you for the article!
Some new recipes Eterna based, in the future?
There’s an Eterna-based Recipe coming very soon! 😀
Richie, what do you think about the different colors on the VI in comparison to the V?
(500 to 700 kelvin difference)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BZj4-sMDSyE
(min 4:49 and on)
I haven’t experienced that, personally, aside from the quirkiness of the AI AWB, which I talked about here:
https://fujixweekly.com/2022/12/21/why-i-dont-like-the-new-ai-awb-on-the-fujifilm-x-t5/
And here:
https://fujixweekly.com/2022/12/22/five-fujifilm-x-t5-ai-awb-workarounds/
I’m not sure if that is what caused his WB issue, or if maybe the RAW editor that he is using wasn’t yet updated for the X100VI (maybe the software was updated, but he hadn’t updated it on his device). Regarding JPEGs, aside from the AI AWB giving weird results sometimes, I haven’t noticed any differences.
oh, these workaround sound annoying… not quite the workflow as on the V…. i am so unsure wether to upgrade from the V or not…
i would love to check out film sims like 1970’s Summer, 1976 Kodak, Summer of 1960… but well they use all nostalgic neg so no luck on the V.
I would say that it’s only a big deal if:
1) You shoot JPEGs
2) You are using AWB
3) You are photographing events (wedding, etc) where you need consistent results across a series of pictures
If those three are all true, you are probably better off with the V, when it comes to this issue. If those three are true and you get a VI, then you’ll have to deal with it and find a workaround.
I hope that is helpful.
Thank you so much for this post, Ritchie! I’ve been mulling over missing out on Reala Ace the last few weeks. I even considered purchasing a X100VI, but realized it is not the camera I’m craving, but the two new film simulations.
I have been enjoying Classic Neg a lot for the last year or so and am now relieved that I can create similar looks to what you can do with Reala Ace with what I have at my disposal.
Looking forward to many new positings, I enjoy your blog a lot.
P.S.: Now only Nostalgic Neg still on my list why I might look forward to the release of a possible X-Pro3 successor.
Definitely wait for it. Since the new Reala Ace sim can be 98% identical to PRO Neg. Std, and Nostalgic Neg. can be 95% identical to Eterna, you’re not missing as much as you might think.
Waiting for the Reala Ace recipe for X trans IV. Thank you for your comparison review.
You are welcome!
Maybe a bit disappointing to be honest, but at least it can be pretty closely replicated on older models. With so many existing film sims I think Fujifilm is already free to create something much bolder, like they did with Classic Neg for example. That one can’t even remotely be replicated and that’s what makes it so desirable. Reala Ace likely won’t generate the same widespread attraction.
You mention that you’d need 0.25 steps for Shadow and Highlight. Given that you use 0.5 steps, on which side would you err on models that don’t support 0.5 steps?
Btw, since even very old models have Pro Neg. Std. and it’s actually pretty close to the new Reala Ace sim, you could publish a Reala Ace recipe for these models. So that their owners receive at least one of the new film sims, even if it’s not official Kaizen from Fujifilm 🙂
I definitely plan to, but it will take a little time to get it all put together.
I would go -0.25 on both Highlight and Shadow, if I could.
I, too, wish that Fujifilm would do another “bold” film simulation. No need to take safe routes. Of course not everyone will like it (whatever it is), but it’s better to make waves, I think, with something that some will absolutely love.
Look, if the people who are buying this model camera just to get the film like qualities, just buy a older model Fujifilm camera as I have done. I have an XPro1 and an XE1, and straight away you will get those filmic looks, and in the process save money.
My first Fujifilm was an X-E1, and I currently own an X-Pro1. Unfortunately, those cameras don’t have the film sims that are the most film-like (Classic Negative, Classic Chrome, Eterna, Nostalgic Neg., Acros), nor the Color Chrome Effects, Grain, and Clarity, that help to achieve film-like results straight-out-of-camera. That’s not to say that the older models aren’t good or that they can’t be used for SOOC photography (because they are and they can), only that the newer models are, in my opinion, much more capable of film-like results than the older ones.
Oops! Big Oops! I think this might be the first time when your “anticipation” recipe beats the one Fujifilm is revealing with big tam-tam and money! 😛 😛 😛
🤣
I think so! 😀
Congrats on the VI I’m still waiting on mine to arrive. Quick question, how are you saving your C1-C7 to a CF Card?
I realized right after I asked this question you weren’t talking about loading them onto a CF card, my bad, still wish you could do that tho 🙂
That would be interesting. Even better, you should be able to store them in the X App and transfer them wirelessly to your camera. You can kind of sort of do that with the backup and restore options, but there are some challenges with that, which make it less practical than it might initially sound.
Many thanks for this post, Ritchie!
As always you are the guy who give us something more specific about this camera! Looks like Classic Neg. will stay the base for Fuji films recipes.
Thanks again for the information you provide us, it was very interesting!
Regards!
You are very welcome!
I’m curious how Reala Ace performs with over- and underexposure. I love Classic Negative just because how different it looks based on exposure; I shot it at +1 2/3 stops overexposed in super sunny snow environments this weekend and the colours look almost like watercolour.
I wish that it behaved more similar to Classic Negative with over and under exposure—CN is unique in that aspect, which I really appreciate about it. RA behaves more like PRO Neg. Std.
Thanks for the article.
I do not understand this paragraph though…
—
To get close to Reala Ace (PRO Neg. C) using PRO Neg. Std, make these adjustments:
– For Reala Ace, I set both Highlight and Shadow to -0.5. Additionally, I used DR200, Grain Weak/Small, and High ISO NR -4; otherwise, everything else was factory defaults (Off, Auto, or 0).
– For PRO Neg. Std, I set Highlight to +1, Shadow to -0.5, Color to +2, Color Chrome FX Blue to Weak, DR200, and Grain Weak/Small; otherwise, everything else was factory defaults (Off, Auto, or 0).
You might question why, for example, I didn’t keep Reala Ace at Highlight/Shadow 0, and on PRO Neg. Std simply adjust Highlight to +1.5? I tried that, but for whatever reason, the changes I made are an ever-so-slightly closer match. Both are acceptable, though.
—-
I have a XT-4 and would like to replicate the film simulation Reala Ace, not the original “film”. Obviously, I do not have the Reala Ace film simulation on the XT-4.
Can you tell me which settings I should try?
Thanks!
On your X-T4, set:
PRO Neg. Std
DR200
Grain Weak/Small
Color Chrome Effect Off
Color Chrome FX Blue to Weak
Auto WB 0R & 0B
Highlight +1
Shadow -0.5
Color +2
Sharpness 0
High ISO NR -4
Clarity 0
That will look similar to the new Reala Ace film simulation.
Thanks Ritchie!
Would changing the White Balance for Pro Neg C work in the same way as for “real Reala Ace”?
Yeah, pretty much the same. Reala Ace is a little warmer than PRO Neg. Std, but -1 Blue is too much. If you could do a .5 WB Shift, that would help to better match.