I went down a pretty deep rabbit hole. I started researching cinematographer Greig Fraser, which led to investigating other great cinematographers, such as Roger Deakins, Rodrigo Prieto, Hoyte van Hoytema, Caleb Deschanel, and several more. I spent quite a bit of time learning about various motion picture techniques. I came to the conclusion that cinematographers often better understand light than many photographers. By “understand light” I mean 1) light qualities, 2) how light is rendered on what it is being captured on, 3) how to use or manipulate light so that it is rendered precisely as intended, and 4) how light affects moods and emotions. Granted, a movie has a whole team of people who’s job it is to control and manipulate the light, but the cinematographer (working with the director) is the one in charge of it.
You might notice when watching a movie that the colors and color cast change from scene-to-scene. The way you respond when viewing a predominately blueish scene is much different than a reddish scene. The colors, among other things, trigger certain responses from the viewers, and cinematographers use this extensively, and often brilliantly. Sometimes it’s quite obvious, and sometimes it’s much more subtle, and you might not even notice unless you’re paying careful attention. If you understand light similarly to a cinematographer, you could do the same thing in your photography.
Another thing that I stumbled across is gear. Obviously film and digital have different aesthetics—digital is much easier to work with, especially when it comes to incorporating special effects and CGI, but it can come across as clean, clinical, and soulless. Film has more character and a different feel, but is much more difficult to work with. There are also digital-film hybrid techniques. Whatever method is used will affect the final aesthetic. Some cinematographers like working with modern lenses, and some—like Greig Fraser—prefer vintage lenses because they have more character. Filters are a big part of the process. Color correction filters (to control the light) and diffusion filters (to give atmosphere) are pretty common. I was surprised to learn that some cinematographers like putting water, silicone, dirt, etc., on the filter to dirty them, and some even like shooting through glass (in-between the camera and the subject).
This is probably more than you ever wanted to know, but I think it’s important to understand for this recipe. First, the light you shoot in will affect how pictures are rendered (definitely not unique to this recipe, but worth noting). Cool light will give a cool color cast, warm light will give a warm color cast. You’ll want to think about the light—how it will render—and the mood or emotions you want to convey in your photographs. Second, inspired by Greig Fraser, I used vintage lenses for these photographs, mostly a Helios 44-2. You don’t have to use vintage glass, but I do think it helps to achieve the desired aesthetic. Third, for most of these images (especially if there was a bright light source) I used a 5% CineBloom diffusion filter. What I appreciate about this filter is that it’s quite subtle. The 5% CineBloom filter is not a requirement for this recipe, but it helps give it a filmic look, especially when there are bright highlights, so I do recommend it if you have one.
This “Cinematic Negative” Film Simulation Recipe isn’t modeled after any specific motion picture film, but is more inspired by a generic daylight-balanced cinema film aesthetic after researching a number of different cinematographers. It is compatible with the Fujifilm X-T30 and X-T3 cameras. To use it on newer X-Trans IV cameras (X-Pro3 and newer) plus X-Trans V, set Color Chrome FX Blue to Off, Clarity to 0 (or -2 in lieu of the 5% CineBloom filter), and decide on either Grain size Small or Large. For the X-H1, you can use this recipe if you ignore Color Chrome Effect; however, it will render slightly differently. I used the 16:9 aspect ratio for some of these photographs, but use whichever aspect ratio you prefer.
Eterna Dynamic Range: DR400 Highlight: +1 Shadow: +2 Color: +4 Noise Reduction: -4 Sharpness: -1 Grain Effect: Weak Color Chrome Effect: Strong White Balance: Incandescent, +8 Red & -9 Blue ISO: Auto up to ISO 6400 Exposure Compensation: 0 to +2/3
Below are all camera-made JPEGs captured using this “Cinematic Negative” Film Simulation Recipe on my Fujifilm X-T30:
Horseplay – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T30
Scrabble – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T30
Palms Trees – Glendale, AZ – Fujifilm X-T30
Bougainvillea Blue – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T30
Crisscross Contrails – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T30
Last Light on Rooftop – Glendale, AZ – Fujifilm X-T30
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Rainfall on the Desert Mountains – Fort McDowell, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4 – “KodaNeg NC”
I’m asked pretty regularly if I can create a Film Simulation Recipe that mimics a certain look—usually a particular film stock, but occasionally the aesthetic of a certain photographer. These recipes began as an attempt to recreate the look of a certain photographer. Unfortunately, despite much effort, I wasn’t successful. When I say “much effort” I mean that I went as far as having conversations with this photographer (which is pretty cool, because he’s well known and respected) to try and find out what he does to get his signature aesthetic. I tried some pretty unconventional tactics to get his look straight out of camera, but in the end I determined that it’s not possible with Fujifilm’s current JPEG options. Still, I really liked one of the recipes that I created while trying (and failing) to mimic the look, so I began using it.
Right around this same time someone asked if I could create a recipe that better mimics the Kodak Ektar 100 aesthetic from a particular photographer (as one film can produce many different looks depending on a host of factors). When I saw the images, my first thought is that it looked a lot like this new recipe, except with the color turned way up. So I turned Color up from -4 to +4, and the results were surprisingly similar to Ektar. An exact match? No, but definitely in the ballpark, and certainly close enough that if one is looking for an alternative Kodak Ektar 100 recipe, this is one to consider.
Red Bench – Tonto Natural Bridge SP, AZ – Fujifilm X100V – “KodaNeg VC”
I stated that I did something unconventional to create this recipe: I used a 1/4 Black Pro Mist diffusion filter, and I did so because it has a slight reddish-brown color cast. Normally I prefer CineBloom filters because they don’t have a color cast, but for this recipe it was necessary. If you have a 10% CineBloom you can use that instead; however, it will be slightly less warm. If Fujifilm allowed .5 adjustments to White Balance Shift, you could move a half-point towards red and achieve basically the same thing, but they don’t. I find that +7 Red is too strong when not using a Black Pro Mist, so I would definitely stick with +6, even though it is less warm. After creating the Black Pro Mist version, I set out to make an alternate version that does not use a diffusion filter, yet produces a similar look (albeit slightly less warm due to the lack of Black Pro Mist filter). So there are four Film Simulation Recipes in total here: two low-saturation options (with a without a Black Pro Mist filter), and two high-saturation options (also with and without a Black Pro Mist filter).
When Kodak introduced Portra, it initially came in two varieties: VC (“vivid color”) and NC (“neutral color”). The VC emulsion was more optimized for landscape photography and the NC emulsion was more optimized for portrait photography. These recipes aren’t intended to mimic Kodak Portra, but I decided to barrow the VC and NC abbreviations anyway—the two VC recipes are optimized for landscapes, while the two NC recipes are optimized for portraits. You can clearly see this in the two sets of images below.
Fujifilm X-E4 — “KodaNeg VC”
Fujifilm X-E4 — “KodaNeg NC”
Fujifilm X-E4 — “KodaNeg VC”
Fujifilm X-E4 — “KodaNeg NC”
I named these recipes “KodaNeg” because they have warm Kodak-like colors… maybe like Kodak color negative film paired with an 81A or 81B warming filter—color correction filters were fairly commonly used back in the film days, and 81A was probably the most popular among landscape photographers. Which Kodak color negative film? I didn’t model these after any specific film, so they don’t closely resemble any; however, the NC recipes are slightly Portra-like, and the VC recipes are slightly Ektar-like, but are not exact match to either.
If you have a 1/4 Black Pro Mist diffusion filter, I invite you to try the two KodaNeg recipes below that are intended for use with a diffusion filter. If you don’t have a Black Pro Mist—no worries—use the two recipes that are intended to be used without a diffusion filter. Unfortunately, because these require Clarity and Color Chrome Effect, they’re not compatible with the X-T30 and X-T3. Those with X-Trans V cameras should be able to use these recipes, but I do not have any personal experience to know for certain.
Use this recipe in conjunction with a 1/4 Black Pro Mist Filter. Alternatively, you can use this with a 10% CineBloom, but the results will be slightly different.
Provia Dynamic Range: DR400 Highlight: -1 Shadow: +1 Color: +4 Noise Reduction: -4 Sharpness: 0 Clarity: +3 Grain Effect: Weak, Small Color Chrome Effect: Strong Color Chrome Effect Blue: Off White Balance: Auto, +6 Red & -6 Blue ISO: Auto, up to ISO 6400 Exposure Compensation: +1/3 to +1 (typically)
Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs captured using this “KodaNeg VC” recipe with my Fujifilm X100V:
Dead Tree & Four Peaks – Fort McDowell, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Red Rock – Tonto Natural Bridge SP, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Sunlight Sky & Golden Trees – Pine, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Barely Autumn – Pine, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Handcrafted – Pine, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Back of Sign – Pine, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
I is for Ice – Pine, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Window Wash Bucket – Payson, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
KodaNeg NC (with Diffusion Filter)
X-Pro3, X100V, X-T4, X-S10, X-E4, & X-T30 II
Fujifilm X70 on a Bed – Pine, AZ – Fujifilm X100V – “KodaNeg NC”
Use this recipe in conjunction with a 1/4 Black Pro Mist Filter. Alternatively, you can use this with a 10% CineBloom, but the results will be slightly different.
Provia Dynamic Range: DR400 Highlight: -1 Shadow: +1 Color: -4 Noise Reduction: -4 Sharpness: 0 Clarity: +3 Grain Effect: Weak, Small Color Chrome Effect: Strong Color Chrome Effect Blue: Off White Balance: Auto, +6 Red & -6 Blue ISO: Auto, up to ISO 6400 Exposure Compensation: +1/3 to +1 (typically)
Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs captured using this “KodaNeg NC” recipe with my Fujifilm X100V:
Power Pole – Pine, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Lamp Sky – Pine, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Pines & Oaks – Pine, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Water Dripping Over Cliff – Tonto Natural Bridge SP, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
This recipe is intended to be used without a diffusion filter. Because it requires +0.5 Shadow, this recipe isn’t directly compatible with the Fujifilm X100V or X-Pro3, but if you want to use it anyway, you’ll have to decide if you prefer Shadow set to 0 or +1—the results will be slightly different, either with a little more or less contrast.
Provia Dynamic Range: DR400 Highlight: -1 Shadow: +0.5 Color: +4 Noise Reduction: -4 Sharpness: 0 Clarity: -3 Grain Effect: Weak, Small Color Chrome Effect: Strong Color Chrome Effect Blue: Off White Balance: Auto, +6 Red & -6 Blue ISO: Auto, up to ISO 6400 Exposure Compensation: +1/3 to +1 (typically)
Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs captured using this “KodaNeg VC” recipe with my Fujifilm X-E4:
Saguaro & Four Peaks – Fort McDowell, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Pine Creek Trail – Tonto Natural BridgeSP, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Cactus Rock – Tonto Natural Bridge SP, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Red Hills – Tonto Natural Bridge SP, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Little Blooms in the Forest – Tonto Natural Bridge SP, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Oak Autumn – Pine, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Yellow Tree in the Forest – Pine, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Touch of Autumn – Pine, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Forestscape – Pine, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
KodaNeg NC (without filter)
X-T4, X-S10, X-E4, & X-T30 II)
Desert Storm – Fort McDowell, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4 – “KodaNeg NC”
This recipe is intended to be used without a diffusion filter. Because it requires +0.5 Shadow, this recipe isn’t directly compatible with the Fujifilm X100V or X-Pro3, but if you want to use it anyway, you’ll have to decide if you prefer Shadow set to 0 or +1—the results will be slightly different, either with a little more or less contrast.
Provia Dynamic Range: DR400 Highlight: -1 Shadow: +0.5 Color: -4 Noise Reduction: -4 Sharpness: 0 Clarity: -3 Grain Effect: Weak, Small Color Chrome Effect: Strong Color Chrome Effect Blue: Off White Balance: Auto, +6 Red & -6 Blue ISO: Auto, up to ISO 6400 Exposure Compensation: +1/3 to +1 (typically)
Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs captured using this “KodaNeg NC” recipe with my Fujifilm X-E4:
Clouds Over Trees – Pine, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Rural Elk – Pine, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Hidden Elk – Pine, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Electric Forest Rain – Pine, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Eave Drops – Pine, AZ – Fujiifilm X-E4
White Cloud – Tonto Natural Bridge SP, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Storm Behind Trees – Tonto Natural Bridge SP, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Little Red Berries & Cloud – Tonto Natural Bridge SP, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Smoke Stack – Pine, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Mountain Trees – Tonto Natural Bridge SP, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
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The Fuji X Weekly App now has Widgets! This can transform how you use the Fuji X Weekly App, turning your home screen into a Film Simulation Recipe launchpad!
If you have an iOS device, you now have this new feature—if your iPhone or iPad didn’t update automatically, be sure to manually do it now. Those with Android devices don’t fret, as Widgets are in the works for Android, too.
What are Widgets? Larger than app icons, Widgets give you quick access to information or provide a different way to interact with the app. Specifically to Fuji X Weekly, you now have six Widgets to choose from: Newest Recipes (one recipe), Newest Recipes (two recipes), Recipe of the Day, Selected Recipe, Recipe Detail, and The Big X.
For Newest Recipe Widget, you have two options: small and medium. The small Widget is a shortcut to the newest recipe, and displays the lead photo of the recipe, which, when tapped, will take you right to it in the Fuji X Weekly App. The medium Widget is a shortcut to the two newest recipes, displaying the lead photo of each, and will take you to whichever of the two recipes that you tap. These Widgets are excellent for those who don’t always visit the Fuji X Weekly Blog, yet want to know when a new recipe is released.
The Recipe of the Day Widget is for when you’re not sure which recipe to use. Each day a new Film Simulation Recipe is provided, and the exact recipe will be different for each user. Between this and the Random Recipe selector, you should be able to find a recipe to use whenever you find yourself stuck for one. This Widget could be incorporated into an interesting project, such as using a different recipe each day for 30 days, or something like that. Today, on my iPhone, Kodak Portra 400 v2 is my Recipe of the Day.
Next is Selected Recipe, which is my personal favorite Widget. You can have quick access to any of the over 250 recipes right on your home screen! In order to use this, you have to tap-and-hold on the Widget, then select Edit Widget, then choose the recipe you want. Tap the Widget to open the recipe in the Fuji X Weekly App.
Recipe Detail displays the parameters of a recipe in a medium-sized Widget. To set it up, you have to tap-and-hold on the Widget, then select Edit Widget, then choose the recipe you want to display. Tap the Widget to see the recipe in the App.
Finally, there’s the Big X, which is just a four-times-size Fuji X Weekly App icon, should you find the regular-sized one to be too small.
The wonderful thing about these Widgets is that you can have as many as you’d like. If you want just one, or seven, or 20—there’s no limit! My iPhone has literally been taken over by Fuji X Weekly Widgets, and it’s transformed how I interact with the App, turning my home screen into a Film Simulation Recipe launchpad.
How do you add Widgets to your iPhone? Tap-and-hold anywhere on your home screen (except directly over an app icon), which will make all of your icons wiggle. Tap the plus in the top-left corner, which opens the Widget menu. You can either scroll down to find the Fuji X Weekly App in the app list and tap on it, or simply search for Fuji X Weekly in the search bar at the top. Find the Fuji X Weekly App Widget that you want to add to your home screen, and tap Add Widget. You can move the Widget to wherever you want on your home screen. I have several pages that are nothing but Fuji X Weekly Widgets! You can also add Fuji X Weekly Widgets to the Today View screen.
Don’t have the Fuji X Weekly App? Download it for free today (Apple here, Android here)! Consider becoming a Patron to unlock the best App experience and to help support this website.
Sunlit Table Corner – Avondale, AZ – Fujifilm X100V – “Kodak Royal Gold 400”
You might have a favorite Film Simulation Recipe, but when the light changes you’re disappointed with the results. This is a pretty common problem, and not unique to Fujifilm or even a new issue to photography. This happens because many of my recipes are modeled after or are inspired by analog film, and this is a long-time film problem.
With a few rare exceptions, film is either daylight balanced (usually around 5500K) or tungsten balanced (typically 3200K)—one for use in daylight, and the other for use in artificial light. If you encountered light outside of the temperature that the film was intended to be shot in, you would either accept the results or use a color correction filter (described in this article) to fix the imbalance. Many Film Simulation Recipes have this same issue: they’re intended to be used in a specific light condition, and outside of that they might not produce the best results.
When shooting film, your best option is to use the correct film for the situation; with recipes, I think this is also the best solution. Sometimes this isn’t practical, and so you could use color correction filters (both with film and film simulations), although carrying around a bag full of filters isn’t an especially convenient option. With digital, you have an added solution: adjust the white balance, which is essentially the digital equivalent of using color correction filters. For the sake of this article, we’ll focus on the first option, which is selecting a Film Simulation Recipe that does well in the light situation that you find yourself shooting in.
With over 250 Film Simulation Recipes on this website (and the Fuji X Weekly App), it can be hard to know which ones perform best in which light. In this article (and hopefully additional articles in the future), we’re going to compare how 10 recipes perform in various light conditions. It should be enlightening, and hopefully you’ll have a better understanding of when to use which recipes.
Same picture, different recipes
Before we jump into it, I think it’s important to briefly discuss Kelvin. The measurement of the temperature (warm or cold) of light is called Kelvin, and the scale is pretty large, ranging from 0 to 20000—the lower the number, the warmer the light, and the higher the number, the cooler the light. The typical temperature of a candle flame is 1900K. Artificial light (incandescent lights, halogen bulbs, fluorescent tubes, etc.) is usually between 2800K and 4300K, depending on the specific bulbs being used. “Golden Hour” light (sunrise and sunset) is around 3500K. Morning and afternoon sunlight (outside of golden hour) is typically between 4500K and 5000K, while midday sunlight is typically 5600K. Overcast sky often ranges from 6000K to 9000K, and shade can be 8000K to 10000K. Your camera’s white balance is designed to “balance” these temperatures so that white is white—a warm light will need a cool white balance, and a cool light will need a warm white balance.
With that prerequisite understanding, let’s take a look at how 10 different Film Simulation Recipes handle various Kelvin temperature light conditions.
Note: This was a Creative Collective article, but now it’s available to everyone.
I photographed a little scene illuminated by one Phottix Nuada R3 II LED lamp (which has an adjustable temperature), plus one warm incandescent bulb that was both dimmer and further from the scene (its impact was very minimal, but still worth noting). The Phottix light can be set from 3200K to 5600K. I attached my Fujifilm X100V to a tripod, and photographed the scene over and over, adjusting the Kelvin temperature of the lamp in-between shots.
We’re going to look through a whole bunch of pictures, then we’ll analyze the results afterwards, making a few observations and conclusions at the end. We’re going to start with the coolest light and end with the warmest. The Kelvin value above each set is the temperature of the light source.
5600K
“Kodak Royal Gold 400”
“Agfa Vista 100”
“AgfaChrome RS 100”
“Melancholy Blue”
“Fujicolor NPL 160T”
“CineStill 800T”
“Serr’s 500T”
“Fujicolor NPS 160 Pulled”
“Reggie’s Portra”
“Everyday Astia”
4700K
“Kodak Royal Gold 400”
“Agfa Vista 100”
“AgfaChrome RS 100”
“Melancholy Blue”
“Fujicolor NPL 160T”
“CineStill 800T”
“Serr’s 500T”
“Fujicolor NPS 160 Pulled”
“Reggie’s Portra”
“Everyday Astia”
4200K
“Kodak Royal Gold 400”
“Agfa Vista 100”
“AgfaChrome RS 100”
“Melancholy Blue”
“Fujicolor NPL 160T”
“CineStill 800T”
“Serr’s 500T”
“Fujicolor NPS 160 Pulled”
“Reggie’s Portra”
“Everyday Astia”
3700K
“Kodak Royal Gold 400”
“Agfa Vista 100”
“AgfaChrome RS 100”
“Melancholy Blue”
“Fujicolor NPL 160T”
“CineStill 800T”
“Serr’s 500T”
“Fujicolor NPS 160 Pulled”
“Reggie’s Portra”
“Everyday Astia”
3200K
“Kodak Royal Gold 400”
“Agfa Vista 100”
“AgfaChrome RS 100”
“Melancholy Blue”
“Fujicolor NPL 160T”
“CineStill 800T”
“Serr’s 500T”
“Fujicolor NPS 160 Pulled”
“Reggie’s Portra”
“Everyday Astia”
I’m going to give a quick word about each Film Simulation Recipe, although I’m sure you’ve drawn some of your own conclusions already just from observing the pictures.
The Kodak Royal Gold 400 recipe is warm. It’s intended to produce warm results in daylight (which, remember, is actually a cool light). If you are photographing in cool light and want to combat that (or “balance” it), this recipe is a good choice. Look carefully at the picture at the very top of this article, and you’ll note that this recipe wasn’t quite warm enough to prevent all of the shadows from rendering blue. This recipe isn’t a good match for warm light situations, and is probably best avoided when photographing with artificial lights.
Agfa Vista 100 is another recipe intended for daylight photography. It’s not quite as warm as Kodak Royal Gold 400 (so it does a little better in warmer light), but it’s definitely meant to be used in cool light. If you (for some reason) encountered purple light that you wanted to “balance” (not render purple), this would be a good recipe to use due to its green cast. I wouldn’t choose this recipe for warm light situations.
Because the AgfaChrome RS 100 recipe has a slight cool cast, even though it is meant for daylight photography, it does well in some warm light situations, although it certainly depends on just how warm the light is. This wouldn’t be my first choice for artificial light, but it’s definitely not the worst recipe to use, either.
Melancholy Blue is similar to AgfaChrome RS 100 in that, while it is intended for daylight photography, because it has a cool cast, it does well in artificial light, even more so than the AgfaColor recipe. I wouldn’t purposefully set out to use this recipe in artificial light, but if I were using it in daylight and then the light changed, I wouldn’t likely be too disappointed with the results.
You might be surprised by the red cast in the Fujicolor NPL 160T recipe. After all, isn’t it supposed to be Tungsten balanced? This recipe is intended for and really shines in “blue hour” light, and that’s when I recommend using it.
CineStill 800T is a great option for artificial light (particularly in the 3700K and 4200K examples above). It has a strong blue cast when used in daylight situations.
Serr’s 500T is similar to CineStill 800T: great for artificial light (particularly in the 3200K and 3700K examples above), but it has a very strong blue cast in daylight situations.
I’m going to lump the last three recipes—Fujicolor NPS 160 Pulled, Reggie’s Portra, and Everyday Astia—together in one paragraph. What these three recipes have in common is that they use Auto White Balance, which adjusts to the light, whatever the light is. If you use an Auto White Balance recipe, you can know that the results will be good whatever light you encounter because it has that versatility. If you are a Patron on the Fuji X Weekly App, you can find these recipes quickly and easily using the Filter by White Balance tool.
You can choose a recipe to match the light, such as Kodak Royal Gold 400 in daylight or CineStill 800T in artificial light. You can choose a recipe and just accept the results you get with it, even if they look a little strange. You can use an Auto White Balance recipe and not worry about the light. There’s nothing wrong with any of these approaches—find the one that works best for you, or maybe use each of them at different times and in different scenarios. If you are not sure which recipe to use, I recommend either using it as an opportunity to experiment, or take the less risky route of selecting a recipe that uses Auto White Balance.
Berry Behind the Baseball Diamond – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V – “Fujichrome Provia 100F”
This Film Simulation Recipe is called “Fujichrome Provia 100F” after the film that it is intended to mimic. Fujifilm introduced Provia 100, a color reversal film, in 1994, and replaced it with the much improved Provia 100F in 2001. I’ve only shot a couple of rolls of Provia 100F. I remember that it had a cool color cast (especially when compared to Kodak films), it had a fair amount of contrast, moderate saturation, and tended to render blues strongly. This recipe has been in the works for awhile, with a lot of failed attempts. I think it does pretty well at reproducing the aesthetic of the film, but there are definitely a few compromises—more of the “memory color” that Fujifilm talks about than perhaps a 100% accurate rendition. Still, I believe that it turned out pretty well overall.
You might be surprised that this recipe doesn’t use the Provia film simulation as its base, but instead uses Classic Chrome. The Provia film simulation doesn’t actually resemble very well the film that it was named after—Fujifilm used it more as a marketing name on the X series than anything else. Velvia was the Fuji slide film that I most often shot with, but Provia was probably their most popular because it wasn’t nearly as wild as Velvia, and produced more true-to-life (yet still fairly vibrant) colors.
Actual Fujicolor Provia 100F 35mm film. Chicago, 2005.
This Fujicolor Provia 100F Film Simulation Recipe has been a Patron Early-Access Recipe on the Fuji X Weekly App since January, but it has been replaced by a new Early-Access Recipe, so now it’s available to everyone. It’s compatible with the Fujifilm X-Pro3, X100V, X-T4, X-S10, X-E4, and X-T30 II cameras. It should be fully compatible with X-Trans V cameras, but I’ve yet to be able to test it to know if it renders the same or not. Those with newer GFX cameras can use this recipe, too, but it will render slightly different.
Classic Chrome Dynamic Range: DR400 Highlight: -1 Shadow: +3 Color: +4 Noise Reduction: -4 Sharpening: -1 Clarity: -3 Grain Effect: Weak, Small Color Chrome Effect: Strong Color Chrome Effect Blue: Strong White Balance: Daylight, -2 Red & +5 Blue ISO: Auto, up to ISO 6400 Exposure Compensation: +1/3 to +1 (typically)
Example photographs captured using this “Fujichrome Provia 100F” film simulation recipe on my Fujifilm X100V and Fujifilm X-E4 cameras:
Mushos for 5$ – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Truck Dodging the Sunlight – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Sunlight Pouring on Leaves in Early Autumn – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Wasatch Front – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V
Blue Sky Reeds – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V
Branch Berries – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V
Baseball Sky – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V
Windsock – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V
Field 3 – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V
Skateboard & Runner – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V
Creek Under Branches – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V
Trail Through the Trees – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V
Fence Along Path – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V
Josh at the Court – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V
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This Old House is now a Business – Avondale, AZ – Fujifilm X100V – “Kodak Royal Gold 400”
This Film Simulation Recipe began as an attempt to achieve a “memory color” aesthetic of photographic prints from the 1990’s and early 2000’s; when creating this recipe I wasn’t concerned about the specific films or processes. After shooting with this recipe and reviewing the results, I was reminded of Kodak Royal Gold 400 film… sometimes. Of course, one film can produce many different aesthetics, depending on (among other things) how it was shot, developed, scanned and/or printed. Royal Gold 400 didn’t always or even usually look like this, but sometimes it did, and I found some examples in a photo-box and online that were quite similar—I’m not sure why, but my suspicion is that the film was mishandled, either from being stored improperly (possibly exposed to too much heat) or waiting too long to develop after exposing. Film can be finicky, but that serendipity is something that makes it special.
Royal Gold 400 was introduced by Kodak in 1994 as a replacement to the original Kodak Ektar 400 film. The Royal Gold line, which also came in ISO 100 and 200 versions, was marketed as a “step up” from Kodak Gold, with finer grain and more vibrant colors. It was more-or-less an updated Ektar emulsion that was renamed for marketing reasons (Gold sold a lot more than Ektar). In the early 2000’s Royal Gold was replaced by the High Definition/Royal Supra line. This Kodak Royal Gold 400 Film Simulation Recipe is a “happy accident” facsimile of one (of many) possible aesthetics from the film.
Bougainvillea Among Trumpets – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X100V – “Kodak Royal Gold 400”
The Fuji X Weekly app is free, yet becoming a Fuji X Weekly Patron unlocks the best App experience! One benefit of being a Patron is you get early access to some new Film Simulation Recipes. These Early-Access Recipes will eventually become available free to everyone in time, including this new one. Patrons help support Fuji X Weekly and, really, without them there would be no App, so I want to give a special “thank you” to all of the Patrons!
This Kodak Royal Gold 400 Film Simulation Recipe is compatible with the Fujifilm X-Pro3, X100V, X-T4, X-S10, X-E4, and X-T30 II cameras. It should also be compatible with X-Trans V models, but I’ve not tested it myself to know for certain. Those with newer GFX models can use it, too, although it will render slightly different. If you are a Fuji X Weekly App Patron, this recipe is available to you right now on the App!
Example photographs captured using this “Kodak Royal Gold 400” Film Simulation Recipe on my Fujifilm X100V:
Mending Blue – Avondale, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Quality Auto Service – Avondale, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
A-Town Garage – Avondale, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Clubhouse – Avondale, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
A Little Red – Avondale, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
4 Sale – Avondale, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Shapes – Avondale, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Cactus Liquor – Avondale, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Sideways Saguaro Stop – Avondale, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Library – Avondale, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Lock & Safe – Avondale, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Going to the Dentist – Avondale, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Sidewalk Bicyclist – Avondale, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Red Car & Wine Bar – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Americana Icon – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Avon – Avondale, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
N Recep – Avondale, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Park Hoop – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Outfield – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Bougainvillea Among Trumpets 2 – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Butterfly Cage – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Pink Bloom in the Garden – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Sunlit Table Corner – Avondale, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Every Sunday from October through April, the Maricopa Live Steamers model railroad club offers free 7 1/2″ gauge train rides through the desert in north Glendale, Arizona. My kids love trains (what kids don’t?), and so my wife and I took them out on an excursion. The club has an extensive setup in the desert—over 18 miles of track—and members from across several states come to operate their scale equipment there. One day each week, except during the heat of summer, the club is open to the public, giving free train rides to anyone who wishes to traverse through the creosote and sand.
I brought along my Fujifilm X100V to capture the experience, with the Fujichrome Sensia 100 Film Simulation Recipe programmed into the camera. To make this recipe compatible with the X100V, I set Grain size to Small, Color Chrome FX Blue to Off, and Clarity to 0. The X100V is such a great camera for adventures like this, being compact and quiet, yet completely capable of fantastic image quality. My Fujifilm X70 would have worked just as well, but one advantage of the X100V is the viewfinder, which came in handy in the harsh midday light.
Fujichrome Sensia 100 was an inexpensive general-purpose daylight-balanced slide film made by Fujifilm from 1994 through 2011. There were three different iterations of the emulsion during that time. It was a popular film for cross-processing (developing in C41 chemistry); otherwise, it was primarily used for documenting family vacations, and was marketed to amateurs and hobbyists. My Film Simulation Recipe mimics the film only as a happy accident, as I wasn’t trying to create a facsimile of Sensia, but it is surprisingly similar nonetheless.
Below are camera-made JPEGs captured with the Fujichrome Sensia 100 Film Simulation Recipe on my Fujifilm X100V while at the Maricopa Live Steamers model railroad club:
RR Crossing – Glendale, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
54 – Glendale, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Old Switch Stand – Glendale, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Signal Tower – Glendale, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
View Through Signal Stand – Glendale, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Outdoor Television – Glendale, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Junk on the Platform – Glendale, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Train Bridge – Glendale, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Tiny Town on the Prairie – Glendale, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Rails Through the Desert – Glendale, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Rusty Train Wheel & Signal – Glendale, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Southern Pacific 8183 – Glendale, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Ghost Train – Glendale, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Yellow Water Tower – Glendale, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
This post contains affiliate links, and if you make a purchase using my links I’ll be compensated a small amount for it.
On October 20, Nathalie and I will be introducing the Fujichrome Sensia 100 Film Simulation Recipe on SOOC as the next recipe-of-the-month. Mark your calendars now, and I hope to see you then!
Fujifilm X100V – “Kodak Portra 400” (X-Trans III version)
Six months ago I turned my Fujifilm X100V into a monochrome-only camera, and just shot black-and-white Film Simulation Recipes with it, which was a lot of fun! I hope that someday Fujifilm makes a B&W-only model. Recently I started shooting color pictures on my X100V again, and the first three color recipes I programmed into the camera were Kodak Portra 400—three different versions of it!
My very first Kodak Portra 400 recipe is for Fujifilm X-Trans III cameras, which I published in May of 2018. It requires a hard-to-explain-and-get-right custom white balance measurement. I have had some luck in the past getting it “right” and at times not-so-much luck. I think this time I was able to get it pretty close but not exactly correct. I made three different attempts (using the three custom white balance slots), and went with the best of the three; however, I think the white balance should be slightly warmer than it is. It’s a tricky thing, and I wish it was more easily repeatable. To use this recipe on my X100V I set Grain size to Small, Color Chrome Effect to Off, Color Chrome FX Blue to Off, and Clarity to 0.
The next Kodak Portra 400 recipe is for the Fiujifilm X-T3 and X-T30, which I published in May of 2020. This one is easier to program (and probably more accurate to the film) than the X-Trans III version. To use it on my X100V I set Grain size to Small, Color Chrome FX Blue to Off, and Clarity to 0.
The third Kodak Portra 400 recipe is for the “newer” X-Trans IV cameras, including the X-Pro3, X100V, X-T4, X-S10, X-E4, and X-T30 II cameras, which I published in June of 2020. Of the three versions, this one is probably the most “accurate” to actual Portra 400 film, but it is extremely similar to the X-T3/X-T30 recipe—only very subtly different.
One film can produce a variety of looks depending on a whole host of factors, including (among other things) how it was shot, developed, and scanned—even the pH balance and temperature of the water can affect it. It’s not possible for one recipe replicate all possible aesthetics. Also, different Fujifilm cameras have different JPEG options, and different sensor generations have slight variances in rendering; even though one recipe might be more “accurate” to the film, it’s certainly not always so—the variables are pretty significant. What’s more important than accuracy is finding the recipe that works best for you and your photography.
I hope that seeing these three Kodak Portra 400 Film Simulation Recipes together helps you decide which to try. Maybe one stands out more to you than the others. Perhaps the camera you own is more of a determining factor than the recipe itself. I personally like all three of them, and have enjoyed shooting with them on my (no-longer-B&W-only) X100V.
Also, as a reminder, these three Kodak Portra 400 recipes are the current SOOC recipes-of-the-month. Fujifilm X-Photographer Nathalie Boucry and I will conclude our discussion of these recipes in the next broadcast (be sure to watch the last episode if you missed it!), which will be live on October 20th. Upload your images (click here) captured with one (or more) of these Kodak Portra 400 recipes by October 18th to be included in the next show. I hope to see you then!
Abandoned Farm House – McKinney, TX – Fujifilm X-E4 – “Fujicolor Natura 1600”
The Fuji X Weekly App has reached a significant milestone: 250 Film Simulation Recipes! That’s incredible! When the App launched in December 2020, it had “over 100” (123 to be exact), and now it has more than double that. Wow!
I published my first two recipe, simply called Classic Chrome and Acros, on August 27, 2017. Now, five years later, there are 250. Actually, there are more than that, because 1) none of the more complicated double-exposure recipes (here, here, here, here, here, here, and here) are in the App, and 2) it doesn’t include any of my Ricoh GR recipes or Nikon Z recipes (here, here, and here), nor any of the RitchieCam iPhone camera app filters.
I thought a fun way to celebrate the 250-recipes-in-the-App milestone would be to pick my favorite one from each block of 25. For some groups, I knew right away which recipe would represent it. For other groups, there were six or seven recipes that I strongly considered before making a decision—of course, that’s the trouble: there are way more than 10 Film Simulation Recipes that are my favorites! Half of these use Classic Chrome, three use Classic Negative, one uses Eterna, and one uses Acros.
Road Work Ahead – Glendale, AZ – Fujifilm X70 – “Classic Kodak Chrome”
Earlier this year I started a new Film Simulation Recipe series with the intention of customizing each film simulation to be optimized for the aesthetic that Fujifilm intended. In other words, make a nice-looking recipe that is similar to yet better than the stock look of a film simulation. The first recipe in this series is Standard Provia, the second is Improved Velvia, and the third is Everyday Astia. Now it’s time for Classic Chrome!
The problem with creating a Classic Chrome recipe for this series is there is already one that optimizes the aesthetic that Fujifilm intended. It already exists! So the challenge, of course, is to create something similar yet different, and hopefully every bit as good as the “old” recipe. Also, I thought to do it for X-Trans II cameras, which have thus far been left out of this series. I call this recipe “Classic Kodak Chrome” because the Classic Chrome film simulation is supposed to resemble a Kodak aesthetic, and this recipe definitely does. Fujifilm would never call the film simulation Kodak Chrome (even if they had the rights to use the brand name), but that doesn’t prevent me from including the Kodak name in my recipe.
Please, Dad—No More Pictures! – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X70 – “Classic Kodak Chrome”
Most X-Trans II cameras have the Classic Chrome film simulation, but not all; this “Classic Kodak Chrome” Film Simulation Recipe is only compatible with those X-Trans II cameras with Classic Chrome, such as the X100T, X-E2, X-E2S, X-T1, X-T10, X30, X70, and XQ2 . Unfortunately, this recipe is not compatible with the X100S, X20, and XQ1, even though they are X-Trans II. Those with Bayer models with Classic Chrome can also use this recipe, although it will render slightly different on those cameras.
Classic Chrome Dynamic Range: DR200 Highlight: -1 (Medium-Soft) Shadow: 0 (Standard) Color: +1 (Medium-High) Sharpness: 0 (Standard) Noise Reduction: -2 (Low) White Balance: Auto, +2 Red & -2 Blue ISO: Auto up to ISO 3200 Exposure Compensation: 0 to +2/3 (typically)
Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs captured on my Fujifilm X70 using this “Classic Kodak Chrome” Film Simulation Recipe:
R2-D2 Junkyard – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X70
Old School Diner – Glendale, AZ – Fujifilm X70
Three Scary Pumpkins – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X70
Big Intersection – Glendale, AZ – Fujifilm X70
In Step – Glendale, AZ – Fujifilm X70
Old Garage – Glendale, AZ – Fujifilm X70
Yellow Building Behind White Fence – Glendale, AZ – Fujifilm X70
Small Neighborhood Flowers – Glendale, AZ – Fujifilm X70
Autumn Window – Glendale, AZ – Fujifilm X70
Doll & Toy Museum – Glendale, AZ – Fujifilm X70
Brick, Tree, Sun – Glendale, AZ – Fujifilm X70
Trees & Glass – Glandale, AZ – Fujifilm X70
Tree Tops & Cyan Sky – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X70
Singular Garden Blossom – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X70
Nobody pays me to write the content found on fujixweekly.com. There’s a real cost to operating and maintaining this site, not to mention all the time that I pour into it. If you appreciated this article, please consider making a one-time gift contribution. Thank you!
The Fuji X Weekly App is free, yet becoming a Fuji X Weekly Patron unlocks the best App experience! One benefit of being a Patron is you get early access to some new Film Simulation Recipes. These Early-Access Recipes will eventually become available free to everyone in time, including this new one. In fact, many Early-Access Recipes have been publicly published on this blog and the App, so now everyone can use them! Patrons help support Fuji X Weekly and, really, without them there would be no App. So I want to give a special “thank you” to all of the Patrons!
Eastman Color Negative II 100T, which was also known as ECN-2 Type 5247/7247, was a 100 ASA Tungsten-balanced motion picture film made by Kodak between 1974 and 1983 (although, apparently, it could still be found and was used into the early 1990’s). A lot of iconic movies used this film for at least some shots, including Star Wars, Back to the Future, Raiders of the Lost Ark, and many more. This Film Simulation Recipe is intended to mimic the aesthetic of this film stock that’s expired and developed in C41 chemistry after having the Remjet layer removed. This recipe isn’t intended to look like the film as it’s seen in the movies, but expired film that’s been developed in C41 chemistry instead of the ECN-2 process.
This “Expired ECN-2 100T” Patron Early-Access Recipe is compatible with the Fujifilm X-T4, X-S10, X-E4, and X-T30 II cameras. I believe it will also work on the X-H2 and X-H2s cameras, although I have not tried it myself to know for certain. If you are a Fuji X Weekly Patron, it’s available to you right now on the Fuji X Weekly App! If you don’t have the App, download it for free today. A side-note: this is the 250th Film Simulation Recipe in the App!
Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs captured using this “Expired ECN-2 100T” film simulation recipe on my Fujifilm X-E4:
Saguaro Green – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Stop, All Ways – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Truck Mirror – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Lightning McQueen’s Home – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Truck – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Texting & Walking – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Bougainvillea Over Wall – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
This Film Simulation Recipe is called Analog Gold because it has a vintage film-like aesthetic with a golden color cast. It produces a warm, somewhat-muted look, and does well in both sunny and overcast conditions. While it’s not modeled after any specific film or process, it does convey an analog quality that’s easy to appreciate. I know that some of you will love this one!
I don’t recall much of the backstory of this recipe. I published it in January as a Patron Early-Access Recipe on the Fuji X Weekly App (which means a new Early-Access Recipe has replaced it, so if you are a Fuji X Weekly App Patron, be sure to look out for that), but I didn’t give a lot of details, and nine months later I just don’t remember. I think it was just some experimentations that I was doing at the time. If you like vintage-analog aesthetics, be sure to give this one a try!
Kaysville Pond in January – Kaysville, UT – Fujifilm X-E4 – “Analog Gold”
This “Analog Gold” Film Simulation Recipe is compatible with the Fujifilm X-T4, X-S10, X-E4, and X-T30 II cameras, but not the X-T3, X-T30, X-Pro3, or X100V cameras. It’s likely also compatible with the X-H2 and X-H2s, but I haven’t tried to know for sure. Those with newer GFX cameras can use it, too, although it will render slightly different.
Eterna Bleach Bypass Dynamic Range: DR400 Highlight: -2 Shadow: +1.5 Color: +3 Noise Reduction: -4 Sharpening: -2 Clarity: -4 Grain Effect: Strong, Small Color Chrome Effect: Strong Color Chrome Effect Blue: Off White Balance: Daylight, +4 Red & -9 Blue ISO: Auto, up to ISO 6400 Exposure Compensation: +1/3 to +1 (typically)
Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs captured using this “Analog Gold” film simulation recipe on my Fujifilm X-E4:
Sunny Day Suburb – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Small Sunlit Tree Leaves – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Weather Radar – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-E4
Dry Leaves & Red Berries – Kaysville, UT – Fujifilm X-E4
Rusty Fence Post – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-E4
Flowing Creek in Grass – Kaysville, UT – Fujifilm X-E4
Frozen Pond – Kaysville, UT – Fujifilm X-E4
Grass & Frozen Pond Water – Kaysville, UT – Fujifilm X-E4
Grass in the Ice – Kaysville, UT – Fujifilm X-E4
Dry Shrub – Kaysville, UT – Fujifilm X-E4
Helicopters Waiting to Fly – Kaysville, UT – Fujifilm X-E4
Nobody pays me to write the content found on fujixweekly.com. There’s a real cost to operating and maintaining this site, not to mention all the time that I pour into it. If you appreciated this article, please consider making a one-time gift contribution. Thank you!
Peak of Sunlight – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4 – “September Summer”
I get asked frequently to create Film Simulation Recipes that mimic various films, and occasionally the aesthetic of specific photographers. In the case of this recipe, someone wanted me to recreate the look of photographer Brian Chorski. While Brian’s images seem to have a cohesive style at first glance, upon closer inspection one can spot several subtle variations. After much research, I discovered that he primarily shoots film—both 35mm and medium-format—and he prefers Kodak emulsions, especially Portra 160, Portra 400, Portra 800, and Ektar 100. I believe that he uses a warming filter at least some of the time, perhaps most of the time. I think he tends to overexpose (a common color negative film technique), and (obviously) his scanning and post-editing play a role in the final outcome. Also, he shoots primarily in the warm summer months.
I believe that several already existing Film Simulation Recipes at times come close to Brian’s look (some more than others), including Kodak Portra 160, Kodak Portra 400 v2 (this one, too), Kodak Portra 400 Warm, Kodak Portra 800 v2, Kodak Ultramax 400, Kodak Max 800, Kodak Ektar 100, Vintage Vibes, Pacific Blues, Bright Summer, and Bright Kodak. I’m sure there are others, too. Still, some of Brian’s pictures don’t seem to match any of those recipes, so I came up with a new one. This recipe, which I’m calling September Summer, is intended to replicate the aesthetic of some of Brian Chorski’s photographs. It seems best suited for sunny conditions, producing warm images that will remind you of seemingly endless summer days (which are now waning).
This “September Summer” Film Simulation Recipe is compatible with the Fujifilm X-Pro3, X100V, X-T4, X-S10, X-E4, and X-T30 II cameras, but not the X-T3 and X-T30, unfortunately. I believe it is also fully compatible with the X-H2 and X-H2s, but I have not tried it to know for sure. Those with newer GFX cameras can use it, too, but it will render slightly different. I don’t think this is a recipe that most will use regularly, but I believe some of you will really appreciate it in the right conditions.
Classic Negative Dynamic Range: DR400 Highlight: -1 Shadow: -1 Color: +1 Noise Reduction: -4 Sharpness: 0 Clarity: -4 Grain Effect: Weak, Small Color Chrome Effect: Off Color Chrome Effect Blue: Weak White Balance: 5500K, +3 Red & -7 Blue ISO: Auto, up to ISO 6400 Exposure Compensation: 0 to +1 (typically)
Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs using this “September Summer” Film Simulation Recipe on a Fujifilm X-E4:
First Day of Fall – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Saguaro Among Trees – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Dead Agave – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Bougainvillea in the Light & Shadow – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Trumpets & Wall – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Empty Pot – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Summer Frog – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Intersection – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Little Leaves, Little Blooms – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Cluster of Bougainvillea – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Nobody pays me to write the content found on fujixweekly.com. There’s a real cost to operating and maintaining this site, not to mention all the time that I pour into it. If you appreciated this article, please consider making a one-time gift contribution. Thank you!
Road Through the Autumn Trees – Bountiful, UT – Fujifilm X100F – Velvia
Autumn officially arrived yesterday. I didn’t notice because I moved to the Phoenix metropolitan area, and in this part of Arizona it is still summer, as far as the weather and trees are concerned. Besides, this area isn’t known for its fall colors, anyway. But I used to live in Utah, and loved watching the autumn colors descend on the Wasatch, beginning at the mountain peaks in late-summer and working their way to the valley by October. I will miss that this year, for sure.
A common question I’m asked around the Autumn Equinox is which Film Simulation Recipes are best for photographing fall colors. There are many that could work well, much more than merely 10. I think, generally speaking, any recipe that uses Velvia or Astia could be solid options. Classic Chrome and Classic Negative recipes can be good, too. I don’t believe any film simulation is inherently “bad” for fall colors, but obviously some are better than others. I think oftentimes the recipes that are more vibrant will do better, so perhaps look for those. Download the Fuji X Weekly App (if you haven’t already), browse through the sample pictures, and see which recipe stands out he most to you. Or, if you’re brave, use the new Random Recipe selector to choose one for you!
If you are not sure which Film Simulation Recipe to use on your Fujifilm camera and are looking for some ideas, I have suggested 10 below, which I believe will do well for photographing fall colors. Best of luck this autumn season!
Urban Palm Leaves – Sun City West, AZ – Fujifilm X-H1 – “Everyday Astia”
Earlier this year I started a new Film Simulation Recipe series with the intention of customizing each film simulation to optimize the aesthetic that Fujifilm intended. In other words, make a nice-looking recipe that is similar to yet better than the stock look of a film simulation. The first one was called Standard Provia and the second was called Improved Velvia. And then I stopped. Life happened. I took a long road trip. Now I’m living in another state (Arizona instead of Utah), and I’m picking this series back up again, taking a look at Astia.
The Astia film simulation doesn’t much resemble real Astia film—it’s actually closer to Provia 100F, but not a particularly close match to that, either. Even so, it’s actually a nice film simulation that is sometimes a “Goldilocks” option: contrasty but not too contrasty, vibrant but not too vibrant, etc.. Still, it’s one of the film simulations that I least use. Why? In my experience, a lot of times it just seems to lack the classic analog feel that I love; perhaps it is technically excellent but lacking soul. So I set out to give it some soul without significantly changing the overall aesthetic.
Partially Green – Sun City West, AZ – Fujifilm X-H1 – “Everyday Astia”
I call this recipe “Everyday Astia” because it is good for everyday photography. It’s great for sunshine and does well in the shade. It’s a good option for portraits. You can use it for street, landscape, or even artificial light photography—it’s highly versatile! This recipe is fully compatible with X-Trans III cameras plus the X-T3 and X-T30. To use it on newer X-Trans IV cameras (plus X-Trans V), set Color Chrome FX Blue to Off, Clarity to 0, and Grain size to Small.
Astia Dynamic Range: DR400 Highlight: +1 Shadow: +1 Color: -1 Color Chrome Effect: N/A (X-Trans III) or Off (X-T3/X-T30) Sharpness: -1 Noise Reduction: -4 Grain: Weak White Balance: Auto, -1 Red & -2 Blue ISO: Auto up to ISO 6400 Exposure Compensation: 0 to +2/3 (typically)
Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs captured using this “Everyday Astia” Film Simulation Recipe on my Fujifilm X-H1:
Architecture Abstract – Sun City West, AZ – Fujifilm X-H1
Striped Directory – Sun City West, AZ – Fujifilm X-H1
Fading Bloom – Sun City West, AZ – Fujifilm X-H1
Reaching Pink Flowers – Sun City West, AZ – Fujifilm X-H1
Empty Patio Chairs – Sun City West, AZ – Fujifilm X-H1
Welcome Courtyard – Sun City West, AZ – Fujifilm X-H1
Late Summer Leaves – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-H1
10:30 Moon – Sun City West, AZ – Fujifilm X-H1
Tiny Tower – Sun City West, AZ – Fujifilm X-H1
Palms & Building – Sun City West, AZ – Fujifilm X-H1
Architectural Stripes – Sun City West, AZ – Fujifilm X-H1
Mirror Mirrored – Sun City West, AZ – Fujifilm X-H1
Headlights – Sun City West, AZ – Fujifilm X-H1
Aged to Perfection – Sun City West, AZ – Fujifilm X-H1
Trike Tire – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-H1
Backlit Joy – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-H1
Happy Jon – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-H1
Building Storm Clouds – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-H1
This “Everyday Astia” recipe compared to “stock” Astia (everything set to factory defaults):
Nobody pays me to write the content found on fujixweekly.com. There’s a real cost to operating and maintaining this site, not to mention all the time that I pour into it. If you appreciated this article, please consider making a one-time gift contribution. Thank you!
Ocean Kayaks – Lake Pleasant, AZ – Fujifilm X70 – “Kodak Portra 160”
You should always have a camera with you.
The Fujifilm X70 is so small that it fits into my pants pocket, making it convenient for carrying literally everywhere. When I head out the door, no matter where I’m going, I shove the X70 into my pocket, along with my wallet, keys, and phone. I don’t always use it, but sometimes the opportunity presents itself, and I’m grateful to have a camera with me.
I was recently out running some errands with my wife, Amanda, and the kids. After we finished our tasks, Amanda asked, “Want to go to Lake Pleasant, just to check it out?” I’m always up for an adventure; besides, over 20 years ago, Amanda and I used to go to this lake, and we hadn’t been back since. So I eagerly answered, “Let’s go!”
Old Dock, New Dock – Lake Pleasant, AZ – Fujifilm X70 – “Kodak Portra 160”
I hadn’t been to Lake Pleasant in a long, long time. The drive out there was vaguely familiar yet a whole lot different. Much had changed. While the body of water is still outside the city—way out in the lonely desert—the city sprawl is inching closer and closer, and the lake has seen quite a bit of development. I’m sure it happened slowly, but, because I hadn’t seen it in so long, it was a bit shocking to me. There weren’t many people there, but I’m sure on a holiday weekend or during the summer heat the place is probably extremely crowded. We didn’t stay long, but because I had a camera with me I was able to capture these 15 pictures.
You never know when photographic opportunities will present themselves, so it’s best to always be prepared. I would have been disappointed that I didn’t have a camera if I hadn’t had the X70 in my pocket. Instead, because I did have it, this impromptu trip to the lake yielded some interesting pictures, which will serve as reminders to this quick adventure for years to come.
Kayaker – Lake Pleasant, AZ – Fujifilm X70 – “Kodak Portra 160”
Short Rope off a Long Pier – Lake Pleasant, AZ – Fujifilm X70 – “Kodak Portra 160”
Water Wench – Lake Pleasant, AZ – Fujifilm X70 – “Kodak Portra 160”
Water Watching – Lake Pleasant, AZ – Fujifilm X70 – “Kodak Portra 160”
Paqua – Lake Pleasant, AZ – Fujifilm X70 – “Kodak Portra 160”
Wench & Docked Boats – Lake Pleasant, AZ – Fujifilm X70 – “Kodak Portra 160”
Repair Kit – Lake Pleasant, AZ – Fujifilm X70 – “Kodak Portra 160”
Dolly – Lake Pleasant, AZ – Fujifilm X70 – “Kodak Portra 160”
Slip Away – Lake Pleasant, AZ – Fujifilm X70 – “Kodak Portra 160”
Barrel Cactus Blue – Lake Pleasant, AZ – Fujifilm X70 – “Kodak Portra 160”
Pleasant Lake – Lake Pleasant, AZ – Fujifilm X70 – “Kodak Portra 160”
Desert Water – Lake Pleasant, AZ – Fujifilm X70 – “Kodak Portra 160”
Saguaro Hill – Lake Pleasant, AZ – Fujifilm X70 – “Kodak Portra 160”
I mentioned at the beginning of this article that I had also put my phone into my pocket, which is an iPhone 11 with the RitchieCam camera app on it. For those who don’t know, I have my very own iPhone camera App, available in the Apple App Store. Even if I had failed to bring a Fujifilm camera, I would still have had my phone. Or, in the case of this particular trip, in addition to the X70, I also had RitchieCam on my iPhone (selecting the Sunny Day filter), and I used both to capture pictures.
Deserted Boats – Lake Pleasant, AZ – iPhone 11 + RitchieCam – “Sunny Day”
Hole View – Lake Pleasant, AZ – iPhone 11 + RitchieCam – “Sunny Day”
Lake Vista – Lake Pleasant, AZ – iPhone 11 + RitchieCam – “Sunny Day”
Scorpion Bay Kayaks – Lake Pleasant, AZ – iPhone 11 + RitchieCam – “Sunny Day”
Orange Dolly – Lake Pleasant, AZ – iPhone 11 + RitchieCam – “Sunny Day”
Note: I wrote this article, which I stumbled across today, over two years ago, but for some reason never published it. I replaced many of the original pictures and corrected some words and grammar, but otherwise I kept it the same.
I love film photography, but digital is so much more convenient. The cost of digital photography is paid upfront, while with film there’s a per-frame cost with each exposure, which is just getting more and more expensive. I rarely shoot film anymore, but I like the look of film. The best of both worlds is when I can get a film aesthetic straight out of a digital camera. That might sound pie-in-the-sky or even pretentious; if I like the look of film, why not just shoot film? If I shoot digital, why not just edit like everyone else?
Fujifilm cameras can create something film-like while delivering digital advantages, and that’s incredible! With digital you don’t have to send off your exposures to a lab or have your own lab set up somewhere in your home. You can know immediately if your frame is any good or not—no need to wait hours or days or sometimes longer. And you are not limited to 12, 24, or 36 exposures. There’s a reason why most photographers shoot digital, yet there’s a reason why some still go through the hassle of shooting film. I think Fujifilm is kind of a bridge between the two.
Rainbow in the Woods – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T1 – “Kodak Portra 160“
Using software, such as Alien Skin Exposure or any of the many preset filter packs that are available, it’s very easy to turn a RAW file into something that looks analog. I’ve done that for many years, and I appreciate the results. If I can skip the software step and have a finished image straight-out-of-camera, that’s even better. That saves me some serious time! For many people, editing a picture is half the fun, but for me it’s not. I much prefer to not sit at a computer manipulating photographs. That’s just my preference, and it may or may not be yours, and that’s perfectly fine—there’s no right or wrong way, only what works for you. Shooting Fujifilm cameras using recipes to get film-like pictures straight-out-of-camera is what works for me.
I’m amazed at all the different looks that I can get out of my camera using my different Film Simulation Recipes on Fujifilm cameras. Fuji only gives so much control in-camera— they’re constantly providing more customization options with each new generation, but it’s still limited. Despite that, there’s a lot that you can do to create many different looks. It’s possible to mimic various film aesthetics without using any software. Thanks to Fujifilm’s vast experience with film, they’ve been able to infuse into their camera-made-JPEGs an analog soul that’s frankly missing from most digital pictures.
The photographs in this article are all straight-out-of-camera JPEGs that weren’t edited, with the exception of some minor cropping in some circumstances. They’re all from Fujifilm cameras, including an X-E4, X100V, X-T30, X-T20, X-Pro2, X100F and X-T1. In my opinion, in one way or another, they resemble film—an analog look from a digital camera. That’s nothing short of amazing!
10 example pictures, just to illustrate the point:
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Dying Garden Rose – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X70 – “Fujichrome Slide”
Sometimes you can get interesting results when you change the film simulation that a Film Simulation Recipe calls for. In this case, the recipe was Monochrome Red, which calls for Monochrome+R, and the film simulation that I used instead was Provia. I actually don’t like the Provia film simulation as much as most of the others, I think because it doesn’t much resemble Provia film; however, I do like how this recipe renders images, so perhaps I’ve been a little too critical of the “standard” film simulation.
This recipe doesn’t match Fujichrome Provia 100F film, but it is much closer to the film than just using default Provia. If you are looking for an X-Trans II recipe that’s in the neighborhood of Fujichrome Provia 100F, and don’t mind that it’s not exactly right, this one’s for you! It has a good deal of contrast (but not too much), and has vibrant colors (but not too vibrant)—definitely a (non-Velvia) Fujifilm color reversal film vibe. If you like this recipe, you should also consider trying Provia Negative.
Fisherboy – Litchfield Park, AZ – Fujifilm X70 – “Fujichrome Slide”
This “Fujichrome Slide” Film Simulation Recipe is compatible with all X-Trans II cameras. Those with X-Trans I or Bayer models can use it, too; however, it will render slightly differently—I tried it on my X-Pro1 and the results were good; similar but not identical to my X70.
Provia/Std Dynamic Range: DR400 Highlight: -1 (Medium-Soft) Shadow: +2 (Hard) Color: +2 (High) Sharpness: +1 (Medium-Hard) Noise Reduction: -2 (Low) White Balance: Fluorescent 1, -4 Red & +7 Blue ISO: Auto up to ISO 3200 Exposure Compensation: +1/3 to +1 (typically)
Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs captured on my Fujifilm X70 using this “Fujichrome Slide” Film Simulation Recipe:
Beyond Orange – Goodyear, AZ – Fujifilm X70
Three Beams & Palm – Litchfield Park, AZ – Fujifilm X70
Palm Bush – Goodyear, AZ – Fujifilm X70
Shriveling Bloom – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X70
Trumpet Vine – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X70
A Yellow Trumpet Blossom – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X70
Moth Wall – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X70
Rose Palm Evening – Litchfield Park, AZ – Fujifilm X70
Fisher Jon – Litchfield Park, AZ – Fujifilm X70
Tree & Home Reflection – Litchfield Park, AZ – Fujifilm X70
Little Boat in the Little Lake – Litchfield Park, AZ – Fujifilm X70
Suburban Lake Reflection – Litchfield Park, AZ – Fujifilm X70
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Waterfront Homes – Litchfield Park, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4 – “Vintage Analog”
This Film Simulation Recipe was suggested to me by someone… and I’m sorry to say that I don’t remember who (if it was you, let me know in the comments!). This recipe is basically my Vintage Kodacolor recipe, but with a couple modifications: Classic Negative instead of Classic Chrome, plus Color Chrome FX Blue and Clarity. Sometimes when you use a different film simulation than what a recipe calls for, the results can be interesting. I programmed this recipe into my Fujifilm X-E4, noticed that it produced good results, and then I kind of forgot about it for awhile. I recently “rediscovered” it in my C1-C7, and used it for several days, enjoying the warm vintage-like images that this recipe produces.
Most of these pictures were captured through vintage glass, as I adapted some old lenses to my X-E4. The main one was a Helios 44-2, but a couple Asahi Takumars were used, too. Using old manual lenses is something that I enjoy doing, and this recipe pairs really well with them. I also used a 10% CineBloom filter on some of the pictures; diffusion filters help to take the “digital edge” off of images, and produce a more analog-esque aesthetic—I don’t use them all of the time, and I think subtlety is key.
Arch Over Bell Tower – Litchfield Park, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4 – “Vintage Analog”
Because this “Vintage Analog” Film Simulation Recipe use Classic Negative, Color Chrome FX Blue, and Clarity, it is compatible with the Fujifilm X-Pro3, X100V, X-T4, X-S10, X-E4, and X-T30 II cameras, but not the X-T3 or X-T30. Those with the X-H2s (and soon-to-be X-H2) can likely use it, too, but I haven’t tested it myself to know for sure. Why does this recipe use Color Chrome FX Blue and Clarity when the Vintage Kodacolor recipe that it is derived from doesn’t? I don’t know (and if I was told I don’t remember). But it looks good, so what can I say? I hope you enjoy it!
Classic Negative Dynamic Range: DR200 Highlight: +2 Shadow: 0 Color: -4 Noise Reduction: -4 Sharpness: -1 Clarity: -2 Grain Effect: Strong, Small Color Chrome Effect: Off Color Chrome Effect Blue: Weak White Balance: 9100K, -4 Red & +4 Blue ISO: Auto, up to ISO 6400 Exposure Compensation: -1/3 to +1/3 (typically)
Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs using this “Vintage Analog” Film Simulation Recipe on a Fujifilm X-E4:
Red Rose of Summer – Litchfield Park, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Dock Post – Litchfield Park, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Duck Conversation – Litchfield Park, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Two Palm Sky – Litchfield Park, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Roof & Tiles – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Garden Bulb – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Summer Trumpets – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Approaching Storm Clouds – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Hoping to Catch – Litchfield Park, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
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Houses, Reflected – Litchfield Park, AZ – Fujifilm X70 – “Monochrome Red”
Back when I shot black-and-white film, I usually used a color filter to manipulate the shades of grey, and for landscape photography the Red filter was my most-used option. You cannot use these filters on your Fujifilm camera, but Fujifilm does provide you with three faux filters: +Y, +R, & +G. These mimic the aesthetic of using a Yellow, Red, or Green filter (sort of). In my opinion, +R doesn’t actually replicate the use of a Red filter very well; it’s more like an Orange filter. This recipe is intended to produce a look more similar to a Red filter on black-and-white film, which means that it will darken blues and lighten reds.
I actually created this “Monochrome Red” Film Simulation Recipe several months back on my Fujifilm X-T1, but that camera has a dirty sensor in need of a cleaning, so I never shared the results. Then I moved, and the X-T1 got packed away for awhile. Just recently I purchased a different X-Trans II camera—an X70—so I plugged this recipe into it and began shooting. This is an excellent option if you are looking for a black-and-white recipe, and is especially good for landscape photography.
Sunlit Flowers – Litchfield Park, AZ – Fujifilm X70 – “Monochrome Red”
The “Monochrome Red” recipe is compatible with all X-Trans II cameras. If you have an X-Trans I or Bayer model, the results will be ever slightly different, but very similar, and you can definitely use it—if you have an X-Pro1 or X-T200 or anything like that, feel free to give this recipe a try.
Monochrome+R Dynamic Range: DR400 Highlight: -1 (Medium-Soft) Shadow: +2 (Hard) Sharpness: +1 (Medium-Hard) Noise Reduction: -2 (Low) White Balance: Fluorescent 1, -4 Red & +7 Blue ISO: Auto up to ISO 6400 Exposure Compensation: 0 to +1 (typically)
Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs captured on my Fujifilm X70 using this “Monochrome Red” Film Simulation Recipe:
Josh Intently Gaming – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X70
Jonathan with a Smile – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X70
Backlit Jo – Litchfield Park, AZ – Fujifilm X70
Boy Fishing – Litchfield Park, AZ – Fujifilm X70
Dock Abstract – Litchfield Park, AZ – Fujifilm X70
Lock & Chain – Litchfield Park, AZ – Fujifilm X70
Pole & Chain – Litchfield Park, AZ – Fujifilm X70
Fishing Pole on Dock – Litchfield Park, AZ – Fujifilm X70
Young Boy Fishing – Litchfield Park, AZ – Fujifilm X70
Lakeside Tree – Litchfield Park, AZ – Fujifilm X70
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