Over the last several months, my wife, Amanda, and I have been sharing our Fujifilm X-T5, which I purchased in November 2022 when it first came out. Her camera is an X-T4 that she’s used for years, but lately has been drawn more to the newer model. Amanda does portrait, event and theater photography, but she really loves videography. By far, the Film Simulation Recipe that she uses the most for still photography is Reggie’s Portra; Reala Ace and Pacific Blues are a distant second and third. We used this new Fujifilm Negative Recipe for some of our photos captured on the X-T5 as we traveled across the country over the last few months.
My inspiration for this Recipe was Fujicolor PRO 160NS color negative film, although it wasn’t necessarily closely modeled after it—I just looked at a number of frames captured with that emulsion when I was creating this, so there is a noticeable similarity. Fujicolor PRO 160NS was produced by Fujifilm between 2010 and 2021; however, before that it was named PRO 160S, and before that—in the 1990’s—it was called NPS 160, with small changes and improvements over the years. While this doesn’t exactly match those emulsions, it certainly has a Fujifilm color negative film vibe, and just feels analog-like.
This Fujifilm Negative Film Simulation Recipe is intended for sunny daylight photography. It works well in overcast conditions, too, and indoor natural light. It might not be the best choice for artificial light situations (can be a bit too yellow), and can be a bit too cool in the shade. This Recipe is compatible with all fifth generation X-Trans models, which (as of this writing) are the Fujifilm X-H2s, X-H2, X-T5, X-S20, X100VI, X-T50, and X-M5 cameras. It can be used on the latest GFX models, too, but will likely render slightly different (try it anyway).
Film Simulation: Reala Ace
Dynamic Range: DR400
Grain Effect: Weak, Small
Color Chrome Effect: Strong
Color Chrome FX Blue: Off
White Balance: 5000K, 0 Red & -2 Blue
Highlight: -1
Shadow: -0.5
Color:+2
Sharpness: -1
High ISO NR: -4
Clarity: -2
ISO: Auto, up to ISO 6400
Exposure Compensation: +1/3 to +1 (typically)
Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs captured using this Fujifilm Negative Film Simulation Recipe on a Fujifilm X-T5:
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Fujifilm X-T5 in black:
Amazon, B&H, Moment, Wex, Nuzira
Fujifilm X-T5 in silver:
Amazon, B&H, Moment, Wex, Nuzira
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Yay, another Reala Ace based recipe. I like it. Nice colours. Probably just bit like (one of my favourite recipes) Color Negative 400, I think.
Let us see more photos by Amanda (I know she does the vids and editing and I enjoy them, too).
Thanks, both.
I can definitely see the similarities between this and Color Negative 400. I appreciate your kind feedback!
This Realy nice, subtle yet popping colours, warm tones and vintage vibe and skin renders close too!
Thanks so much!
This is a very pleasing looking recipe.
Just curious, will there be anymore recipes for x100v sensor?
I have a couple that I’m working on, so hopefully yes 😀
As in the old days, Fujifilm has a more ‘blue’ tone look, whereas Kodak was tending to a more ‘turquoise’ tone for skies. So I am not surprised that a Fujifilm look is in the top 5 list. Because it’s a new recipe, at the moment at the top. I like very much this Fujifilm recipe.
The new ones tend do tend to rank fairly high for a short time… only twice has a brand-new Recipe gone all the way to #1, and this is one.
I appreciate your kind feedback!
A more general question: Is the Clarity setting really needed? It adds so much processing time on recipes, at least on my X100VI.
It makes a difference to the outcome of the picture to a degree. If it’s “really needed” is up to each person. I might say “definitely yes” but someone else might say “absolutely not.” I would say that +/- 1 or 2 isn’t a huge difference, but more than that is going to be more noticeable. But it’s up to each person to determine what’s important to them and what isn’t.
The “Clarity pause” is about the same amount of time as advancing to the next frame on a film camera, and I use it to slow myself down. I try to look at it as a positive. But I can certainly understand why it can be viewed as a negative, and unwanted.
A diffusion filter can be used in lieu of a negative Clarity value, such as a 1/8 Pro Mist or 5% CineBloom instead of -1 or -2 Clarity, and 1/4 Pro Mist or 10% CineBloom instead of -3 or -4 Clarity.
I hope this answers your question.
I love the blues and greens of this recipe. Can you recommend recipes with similar tones that can be used on X-T3?
You might be able to get kind of sort of similar using PRO Neg Std. Maybe increase Highlights to 0, and add a little warmth (maybe -3 or -4 Blue), and set Color to +4. Obviously ignore Grain size, Color Chrome FX Blue, and Clarity. Won’t be exactly the same, but it should be somewhat close.