I shot a 36-exposure roll of Fujichrome Fortia 50 on my Fujifilm X100V.
Right now you are thinking one of a few things. What is Fujichrome Fortia 50? Fortia was discontinued a long time ago, and is well expired now and difficult to find. Anyway, you can’t shoot film in a Fujifilm X100V! There’s not a Fujichrome Fortia 50 Film Simulation Recipe, is there? All of that and more will be explained in this article!
Have you ever wondered about the story behind Fuji X Weekly? How did it all began? What’s behind the curtain? The April issue of FXW Zine is for you!
This never-before-told journey is something that I’ve been wanting to share with you for awhile now. I had to be a little vulnerable, because some of the details are personal. I hope that you find it inspirational to you and your personal journey, whatever that is. Ultimately, this journey isn’t so much about me as it is about you.
If you are a Creative Collective subscriber, the latest issue of FXW Zine is available for you to download now! If you are not a subscriber, consider joining the Fuji X Weekly Creative Collective to gain access to all of the issues plus other bonus articles.
Dreamy light is all the rage right now. Maybe it has been for awhile, but it is definitely something that photographers are seeking right now. But how does one achieve it? Vintage lenses. Diffusion filters. Scratching a UV filter. Those can work. How about these: shooting through an optical viewfinder, oiling a filter, or using a LoFi lens? Yep, that’ll do it, too. But there is a cheaper and easier camera hack that might just work even better!
Here’s how to do it and what it looks like.
I’m really excited for the March 2023 issue of FXW Zine. You see, my favorite genre of photography is abandoned buildings, sometimes called urban exploration (or urbex for short). I don’t get to do this type of photography as often as I’d like, but every once in awhile the opportunity comes. I think it is important to document these dilapidated structures, because they represent what once was—plus how society deals with that—and they’ll eventually be gone. I like how Troy Paiva put it, “accepting loss and finding beauty and nobility in decay.” This issue celebrates abandoned building photography, taking a look at four different locations.
Obviously this type of photography is risky. You have to consider property laws such as trespassing—many abandoned buildings are on private property—and what kind of dangers one might encounter, such as broken glass, crumbling structures, asbestos, lead paint, transients, etc., etc.. I’m not encouraging you to break laws or enter sketchy abandoned buildings, but if you should decide to do it on your own accord and at your own risk, I do encourage you to use extreme caution. Now that the disclaimer is out of the way, let’s get to Issue 16!
The March issue is 20 pages long and features 26 pictures. The FXW Zine is a part of the Fuji X Weekly Creative Collective, so if you are a Creative Collective subscriber you can download it now! If you haven’t joined the Creative Collective, consider subscribing today to get access to bonus articles and the FXW Zine—not just this issue, but the first fifteen issues, too!
I love making retro faded-film-like looks on Fujifilm cameras using the multiple-exposure feature. I have created a number of Film Simulation Recipes which utilize double-exposures to achieve a faded aesthetic. Some of these Recipe are Faded Negative, Faded Color, Vintage Color Fade, Faded Monochrome, and Split-Toned B&W. This type of Recipe isn’t nearly as popular as the “regular” ones that don’t use multiple exposures, and I’m pretty sure it’s because these are a lot more difficult to use. They are way less convenient and practical; however, they can be a good challenge and a lot of fun, and you’ll achieve results that a fairly unique.
I didn’t come up with a new double-exposure Recipe, but I did come up with a slight variation to this concept that I thought I’d share with you. If you are looking for something creative to try, this might just be what you are looking for. In any event, you’re sure to make some interesting images.
Here is the 15th issue of FXW Zine! If you are a Fuji X Weekly Creative Collective subscriber, you can download it today!
In the February issue, we take a look at 10 different Film Simulation Recipes for use on dreary, overcast days. If you aren’t sure which recipe to use when the sky is grey, this issue is intended to be helpful. Also, my wife, Amanda, contributed six pictures to this publication, including the cover image.
If you haven’t joined the Creative Collective, consider subscribing today to get access to bonus articles and the FXW Zine—not just this issue, but the first thirteen issues, too!
Above-Left: Kodak Portra 400 v2 recipe — Above-right: same recipe, but slightly modified.
Film Simulation Recipes are one way to replicate the look and feel of traditional film on your Fujifilm camera. You can do something like this by editing RAW files and applying Alien Akin, VSCO, RNI, etc., presets during post-processing; however, using recipes cuts out this step, saving you a lot of time and hassle. One-step photography (as discussed by Ansel Adams in his book about Polaroid photography, which he was fascinated with) is an easier approach. Some advantages of using recipes on Fujifilm cameras are simplicity (quickly and easily achieve a desired aesthetic with little or no editing), authenticity (film-like quality that doesn’t appear heavily manipulated), consistency (a single recipe over a series of pictures produces a cohesive visual style), and productivity (not editing pictures saves a lot of time). There are over 250 Film Simulation Recipes published on Fuji X Weekly, which are also available on the Fuji X Weekly App.
Even though there are a lot of recipes to choose from, you may not always find one that’s the perfect fit for your personal style, subject matter, or lighting condition. I’ve often said that it is fine to “season to taste” any recipe to make it work for you, because making it work for you is preferable to rigidly adhering to a recipe and being dissatisfied with the results (the notes section in the App underneath a recipe is an excellent place to keep track of your modifications). In this post, we will discuss some reasons why someone might choose to modify a Film Simulation Recipe to suit their personal style.
It’s 2023! That means the 14th issue of FXW Zine is out now, and if you are a Fuji X Weekly Creative Collective subscriber, you can download today!
What’s in the January issue? My top 50 favorite photographs of 2022. There are 50 pictures, including the cover, across 32 pages.
If you haven’t joined the Creative Collective, consider subscribing today to get access to bonus articles and the FXW Zine—not just this issue, but the first thirteen issues, too!
I made a really interesting discovery: if you tilt a diffusion filter and spin it, you can control the lens flare and bloom. For example, in the pictures above, I twisted the tilted filter, and the flare and bloom around the street lamp go from sideways to diagonal. There are several creative applications of this!
Below, I’ll explain how I made this filter (it’s simple!), and what you can do with it.
There’s a feature on Fujifilm cameras that I don’t utilize often enough: Film Simulation Bracket. This processes one exposure as three different images, each with a different film simulation applied. You cannot change any other parameters—only the film sim—so you cannot use three different Film Simulation Recipes, only one recipe, but with three film simulations. It would be great if Fujifilm made a Custom Preset Bracket where you could choose three C1-C7 presets to process the exposure with, but that unfortunately doesn’t exist. Another limitation worth noting is that on newer cameras, Film Simulation Bracket disables Clarity, which is a shame.
I already discussed Film Simulation Bracket in a previous Creative Collective article, so I’ll try to take a slightly different approach with this one, and not rehash everything that’s already been said. When is Film Simulation Bracket a useful tool? Read on to find out!
The 13th issue of FXW Zine is out, and if you are a Fuji X Weekly Creative Collective subscriber, you can download it now!
What’s in the December issue? The cover story is about nighttime street and urban photography in Phoenix, Arizona, with a Fujifilm X100V. There are 29 pictures, including the cover, across 20 page.
If you haven’t joined the Creative Collective, consider subscribing today to get access to bonus articles and the FXW Zine—not just this issue, but the first twelve issues, too!
I love using vintage lenses because they often have character. Modern lenses are often technically perfect (or close to it), but they usually lack the character that is a hallmark of analog photography—perhaps the precision engineering makes them too good. The imperfections of old glass is what gives them their unique qualities. One of those qualities is sometimes interesting lens flare. Some people love lens flare and some people hate it—if you are one of those who loves it, I discovered a trick that you might appreciate. It is simple (yet can be tricky), and you probably already have what you need to do it.
The 12th (yes, 12th!) issue of FXW Zine is out, and if you are a Fuji X Weekly Creative Collective subscriber, you can download it now!
What’s in the November issue? The cover story is about embracing blur! Have you noticed the recent blurry picture trend? In this issue we dive into the what, how, and why of it all. There are 22 pictures, including the cover, across 16 page.
If you haven’t joined the Creative Collective, consider subscribing today to get access to bonus articles and the FXW Zine—not just this issue, but the first eleven issues, too!
This Creative Collective article is a followup to Comparing 10 Recipes For Indoor Photography and Fujifilm X-T30 & X-T3 Film Simulation Recipe: Cinematic Negative. Specifically, I’m going to discuss light rendering in a practical sense, color casts, and mood; how all of that relates to Film Simulation Recipes and photography, and how you can use it to your advantage to better control your images, and the emotions that they convey to those viewing them.
You might have a favorite Film Simulation Recipe, but when the light changes you’re disappointed with the results. This is a pretty common problem, and not unique to Fujifilm or even a new issue to photography. This happens because many of my recipes are modeled after or are inspired by analog film, and this is a long-time film problem.
With a few rare exceptions, film is either daylight balanced (usually around 5500K) or tungsten balanced (typically 3200K)—one for use in daylight, and the other for use in artificial light. If you encountered light outside of the temperature that the film was intended to be shot in, you would either accept the results or use a color correction filter (described in this article) to fix the imbalance. Many Film Simulation Recipes have this same issue: they’re intended to be used in a specific light condition, and outside of that they might not produce the best results.
When shooting film, your best option is to use the correct film for the situation; with recipes, I think this is also the best solution. Sometimes this isn’t practical, and so you could use color correction filters (both with film and film simulations), although carrying around a bag full of filters isn’t an especially convenient option. With digital, you have an added solution: adjust the white balance, which is essentially the digital equivalent of using color correction filters. For the sake of this article, we’ll focus on the first option, which is selecting a Film Simulation Recipe that does well in the light situation that you find yourself shooting in.
With over 250 Film Simulation Recipes on this website (and the Fuji X Weekly App), it can be hard to know which ones perform best in which light. In this article (and hopefully additional articles in the future), we’re going to compare how 10 recipes perform in various light conditions. It should be enlightening, and hopefully you’ll have a better understanding of when to use which recipes.
Before we jump into it, I think it’s important to briefly discuss Kelvin. The measurement of the temperature (warm or cold) of light is called Kelvin, and the scale is pretty large, ranging from 0 to 20000—the lower the number, the warmer the light, and the higher the number, the cooler the light. The typical temperature of a candle flame is 1900K. Artificial light (incandescent lights, halogen bulbs, fluorescent tubes, etc.) is usually between 2800K and 4300K, depending on the specific bulbs being used. “Golden Hour” light (sunrise and sunset) is around 3500K. Morning and afternoon sunlight (outside of golden hour) is typically between 4500K and 5000K, while midday sunlight is typically 5600K. Overcast sky often ranges from 6000K to 9000K, and shade can be 8000K to 10000K. Your camera’s white balance is designed to “balance” these temperatures so that white is white—a warm light will need a cool white balance, and a cool light will need a warm white balance.
With that prerequisite understanding, let’s take a look at how 10 different Film Simulation Recipes handle various Kelvin temperature light conditions.
The 11th issue of FXW Zine is out, and if you are a Fuji X Weekly Creative Collective subscriber, you can download it now!
What’s in the October issue? The cover story is an ode to the Classic Chrome film simulation, perhaps the most beloved film simulation created by Fujifilm. There are 20 pictures, including the cover, across 16 page.
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With film photography, there are more-or-less two groups: those who used rangefinders, SLRs, TLRs, etc., and those who used cheap point-and-shoots and disposable cameras. Generally speaking, pros and hobbyists used SLRs, while novices who didn’t have much interest in photography primary used point-and-shoots (my parents’ and grandparents’ photo albums are full of these pictures). Of course, there are always exceptions, such as the novice who insisted on using their SLR despite not understanding how it worked, or the artist who used cheap gear for artistic effect.
As you probably know, I like to create approximations of classic analog looks on Fujifilm cameras with Film Simulation Recipes. Much of the time, the facsimile aesthetic is based on film shot on SLRs, etc., but occasionally I like to replicate the look of cheaper gear, such as disposable cameras, Holga, pinhole, 126, light leaks, etc.. I do crazy things occasionally—like when I distressed a camera or when I used tiny lenses—so I’m not afraid to try something that’s a bit unconventional. In the case of this article, it’s the Xuan Focus Free 30mm f/10 Body Cap Lens.
What is the Xuan Focus Free 30mm f/10 Body Cap Lens, you ask? Well, someone took a cheap third-party Fujifilm body cap, drilled a hole in it, and attached (via glue) a recycled 30mm f/10 lens from a Kodak Funsaver disposable camera. They’re selling them for $26 each. You can actually do this yourself without too much trouble, but for such a cheap price (and with free next-day delivery), it made sense to go the easy route.
The reason why it’s called a “focus free” lens is because it’s pre-focused, and you cannot adjust it (nor can the aperture be changed). I don’t think the distance from the lens to the sensor on my Fujifilm X-E4 is exactly the same as the lens to the film on a disposable camera, so the focus point is slightly different. Xuan claims that from roughly 5′ to infinity is in focus, but that’s not my experience. I believe the focus point is set to about 11′, and the depth-of-field is more like 6.5′ to 37′, and 8′ to 15′ seems to be the sharpest zone.
If you want to shoot with a pancake lens on your Fujifilm X camera, your options are limited. You have options—some excellent options, in fact—but only a handful in total. The Xuan Focus Free 30mm F/10 Body Cap Lens is another pancake choice, but is it good? Is it even worth $26? I used this lens recently on my X-E4, attempting to capture beautiful LoFi pictures—more resembling those found in picture albums, and less like those printing in magazines and hanging on gallery walls. How was my experience? What do I think of the Xuan 30mm lens? Read on to find out!
This post contains affiliate links, and if you make a purchase using my links I’ll be compensated a small amount for it.
Xuan 30mm Amazon
Note: This was originally a Creative Collective article that required a subscription, but now it is available to everyone.
The Xuan Focus Free 30mm F/10 Body Cap Lens is surprisingly good and unsurprisingly terrible at the same time. The center is sharper than I anticipated—a little soft, yes, but not any less than many kit zooms or even the Nikkor 28mm pancake. The lens is noticeably softer as you move towards the corners, and is especially soft in the corners and along the edges, none of which is surprising. I think if the subject is in the middle of the frame and anywhere from 8′ to 15′ from the camera is where you’ll achieve the sharpest results. There’s vignetting in the corners, which is sometimes obvious and sometimes not. The 35mm-equivalent focal-length is 45mm, making it a “standard” lens on Fujifilm X cameras.
Bokeh is the quality of the out-of-focus area of an image. The depth-of-field of the Xuan 30mm is pretty large, and where you’ll find it out-of-focus are close foreground objects and distant background objects. Bokeh is not especially great, but it’s not typically a distraction, either, so I don’t think it even matters. I had a hard time achieving lens flare, but when I did I thought it was interesting. I did notice some chromatic aberrations, but nothing terrible.
Because of the fixed f/10 aperture, the lens isn’t a good option for low-light or indoor situations, unless you use a flash with it—something that I didn’t do, but that’s how the disposable camera that the optics came from worked. Or use a tripod (I didn’t do that, either).
I used the Nostalgia Color Film Simulation Recipe with this lens because it resembles to some extent the analog aesthetic of pictures captured with point-and-shoot or disposable cameras. I think Fujicolor Superia 800, Fujicolor Superia 1600, Fujicolor Natura 1600, Scanned Superia, Nostalgic Print, Kodak Gold 200, or Kodacolor could all be good options—and I’m sure there are many others, too.
What I enjoy about the Xuan 30mm is that it is literally point-and-shoot. No focusing. No adjusting the aperture. I set both Shutter and ISO to Auto, and walk around snapping pictures whenever I think there might be an interesting image. In a way, it’s similar to using Snap Focus on Ricoh GR cameras. As Rob Morgan put it, “See a moment, grab the camera, snap the shutter, put it down, and get back to rocking out.” Well, maybe “rocking out” won’t apply to you, but you get the idea. The only real consideration is where the subject is, because there’s a somewhat narrow window where the subject is sharp, and is otherwise soft, and can sometimes be almost painterly or impressionist, which could be good or bad.
I’ve had a lot of fun with the Xuan 30mm lens, and very quickly got my $26 worth out of it! It’s not something I’d want to use all of the time—only when I’m in the “right” nostalgic mood. I think it would be interesting for a project, such as using one camera, this one lens, and one Film Simulation Recipe to photograph a singular subject over a period of time. Maybe I’ll do that, but I’m not sure what the subject should be.
Example pictures:
The Xuan Focus Free 30mm F/10 Body Cap Lens is a super-cheap LoFi pancake option that produces soft Lomo-like pictures reminiscent of images captured with disposable cameras. It’s not something to use all of the time, but for only $26 it doesn’t need to be. I’ve had a lot of fun with it, and I plan to use it even more, perhaps for a personal project of some sort.
For those with Fujifilm X-Trans cameras that are older than the X-Pro3, you cannot save a White Balance Shift within the C1-C7 Custom Presets. This means that you have to remember to adjust the WB Shift whenever you switch Custom Presets, which is inconvenient to say the least. However, I discovered a method (which I’ve shared before) that allows you to switch between your C1-C7 Custom Presets without having to adjust the WB Shift, and most of you can even have eight presets instead of seven!
Those with an X-Pro3 or newer model don’t have to worry about this, but for those with “older” cameras (X-Trans I, X-Trans II, and X-Trans III, plus the X-T3 & X-T30… Bayer models don’t have Custom Presets), this method can dramatically improve the shooting experience. In this article I will explain in a practical way how to do this on your X-Trans camera. This will be a “game-changer” for some of you!
The 10th issue of FXW Zine is out, and if you are a Fuji X Weekly Creative Collective subscriber, you can download it now!
What’s in the September issue? It’s actually a very special edition, celebrating my first six years shooting Fujifilm cameras. There are 74 pictures, including the cover, across 48 pages—this is by far the biggest issue of FXW Zine yet!
If you haven’t joined the Creative Collective, consider subscribing today to get access to bonus articles and the FXW Zine—not just this issue, but the first nine issues, too!
I like using vintage lenses because they often have character, and sometimes that character is pronounced in the lens flare. When light is scattered within the lens system, such as reflected between the elements, you get lens flare. Some people love it and some people don’t. Modern lenses are precision engineered and coated to avoid lens flare as much as possible. If you’re one of those who like it and try to incorporate it within your photography, you might be disappointed that newer glass just doesn’t produce very much lens flare; however, there’s a cheap and simple hack for increasing the flare in your photographs.
If you are using a lens that’s not especially prone to lens flare and you want a little more of it in your pictures, it’s very easy to do.
