52 Weeks of Photography: Week 10

Cactus, Flowers – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X100VI – Upcoming Recipe

Week 9

This is a one-year photo-a-day project called 52 Weeks of Photography. Even though it is a year-long undertaking, I’m taking it one week at a time, because it’s a little easier to manage many small blocks than one large chunk. This is the 10th week, so the 10th set of seven images. I can’t believe that I’m nearly 1/5th finished!

The reason why I’m doing this 365 Day project is because I noticed some gaps in-between my images last year. I didn’t pick up my cameras daily. On several occasions, four or five days passed by without a single picture created. Twice in 2024, I skipped a whole week. I want to rectify this, and get back into the habit of daily photography. I also want to elevate the quality of my craft in 2025, and am hoping that this will help.

Ford Falcon – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X100VI – Upcoming Recipe

The plan is to capture a year’s worth of notable images, either personally or artistically. Ansel Adams famously stated, “Twelve significant photographs in any one year is a good crop.” It’s important to keep expectations realistic, but I’m also trying to avoid thoughtless snapshots just to fulfill the day’s requirement. I want to push myself to be better, and hopefully that will happen. Not every photo will be great—in fact, most won’t—but I hope they are all at least decent enough to be shared without embarrassment. And maybe when the whole project is complete, there will be 12 significant pictures (out of the 365) that I’m particularly proud of.

A lot of personal things came up this week. There were a couple of time that I thought I was going to fail. Somehow I managed to photograph each day, and I think it is because of the habits formed during the first nine weeks—if the same obstacles had presented themselves earlier in the project, I’m confident that I wouldn’t have completed it. Because those habits had cemented themselves already, it helped tremendously. Life happens, so I built into this project two days that can be missed. At some point I know that I’ll need to use those, but I’d rather save them for later if possible, and thankfully it was possible.

Below are the 10th set of seven pictures from this 52 Weeks of Photography project.

Tuesday, February 25th, 2025

Senergy – Goodyear, AZ – Fujifilm GFX100S II & 80mm f/1.7 – Fujicolor PRO 160C Warm

Wednesday, February 26th, 2025

Sunset Bougainvillea – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X100VI – Upcoming Recipe

Thursday, February 27th, 2025

Pinhole Contact Prints – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 & 56mm f/1.2 – Kodak Tri-X 400 – Thanks, Dan Allen, for the prints!

Friday, February 28th, 2025

Torani – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X100VI – Upcoming Recipe

Saturday, March 1st, 2025

Renegade – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X100VI – Upcoming Recipe

Sunday, March 2nd, 2025

Lighted Sky – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X100VI – Upcoming Recipe

Monday, March 3rd, 2025

Pool Duck – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 & 90mm f/2 – Pacific Blues

Week 11

This post contains affiliate links, and if you make a purchase using my links I’ll be compensated a small amount for it.

Fujifilm GFX100S II:
Amazon, B&H, Wex
Fujinon GF 80mm f/1.7:
Amazon, B&H, Wex
Fujifilm X-T5 in black:
Amazon, B&H, Moment, Wex, Nuzira
Fujifilm X-T5 in silver:
Amazon, B&H, Moment, Wex, Nuzira
Fujinon 56mm f/1.2 R WR:
Amazon, B&H, Wex, Nuzira
Fujinon 90mm f/2:
Amazon, B&H, Moment, Wex
Fujifilm X100VI in black:
Amazon, B&H, Moment, Wex, Nuzira
Fujifilm X100VI in silver:
Amazon, B&H, Moment, Wex, Nuzira

WCL-X100 & TCL-X100 for GFX??!!

I said something in my Is $5,000 A Bargain or Bust? article that caught a couple people’s attention. In regards to the upcoming fixed-lens GFX camera, I stated, “I really hope for conversion lenses—both wide and telephoto—like the X100-series has. I highly doubt that the WCL-X100 and TCL-X100 will work on it (although it would blow my mind if they somehow did), but something similar should be made for the GFX100RF.” I received two messages from people wanting to further discuss the idea that the wide and telephoto conversion lenses for X100-series cameras might be compatible with the upcoming medium-format model.

Just to be clear from the top, I’m highly skeptical that the WCL-X100 and TCL-X100 will be officially compatible with the GFX100RF. It’s possible that they might be, but that seems like improbable engineering. I don’t think Fujifilm designed the lens on the new camera to be compatible with those two conversion lenses. More likely—if there are conversion lenses—new ones will be designed specifically for the GFX camera. But…

Above: Surprisingly, the world’s smallest lens covers the APS-C sensor.

There’s a strong likelihood that you could actually use those two conversion lenses if you want to. Now, the camera is unlikely to account for and fix the distortion (unless the engineers programmed it to). There’s a good chance that the conversion lenses won’t cover the whole frame, or—if it does—there could be strong vignetting and soft corners. But maybe it won’t be as bad as you might think. For example, Pentax Auto-110 lenses, which are tiny, cover the APS-C sensor. The Helios 44-2 lens, which is for 35mm cameras, fully covers the GFX sensor. So there is a possibility that the WCL-X100 and TCL-X100 conversion lenses will cover most or maybe even all of the GFX sensor.

If they don’t, that may not be a big deal. Using a different aspect ratio will likely crop out whatever isn’t covered. If the conversion lenses cover almost all of frame, then the 3:2 ratio might be all you need. If the coverage isn’t quite that good, 16:9, 65:24, and 1:1 should do the trick. Or, with 100mp to work with, a simple crop should do—I could see using the teleconverter lens in conjunction with the in-camera digital teleconverter, which would crop out whatever isn’t covered.

Fujifilm GFX100S II & Helios 44-2 – Fujicolor PRO 160C Warm Recipe

The real question is if the adapter ring on the GFX100RF will be the same size as the X100-series. My guess is no. Most likely it will be larger on the GFX—I think that’s a pretty safe assumption. In the unlikely case that it is the same size, you’d be able to just screw on the conversion lenses just like you would on the X100VI. Much more likely, you would need a step-down ring to attach the conversion lenses. This would have (at least) two side effects: less coverage of the sensor, and more close-focusing capabilities—maybe even macro—like using an extension tube.

My hope is that Fujifilm releases conversion lenses for the upcoming GFX100RF. If they don’t, or if they do but they’re unaffordable or difficult to find in stock, then adapting the WCL-X100 and TCL-X100 should be possible; however, it may not be ideal. There will certainly be some vignetting and soft corners, and they probably will not cover 100% of the GFX sensor, among other potential issues. But, technically speaking, it should work. If I do purchase the upcoming camera at some point in the future, I’ll be sure to test it out and report back to you what I discover.

Hidden Gems: Underrated Fujifilm Cameras for SOOC Photography

Fujifilm is renown in the photography world for blending modern technology with vintage styling, delivering an experience similar to classic film cameras with colors inspired by analog looks. While newer models often steal the spotlight, some older Fujifilm cameras remain hidden gems—overlooked, yet still highly capable. These cameras seem to pair especially well with my Film Simulation Recipes for straight-out-of-camera photos that don’t require editing. If you’re looking for a capable, budget-friendly camera that embraces the magic of Fujifilm’s film simulations, consider these four hidden treasures.

Fujifilm X-T1: The Classic Workhorse

Released in 2014, the Fujifilm X-T1 was a game-changer for the X-series. It introduced the rugged, SLR-style design with dedicated dials that many Fujifilm photographers love. With a 16mp X-Trans II sensor, the X-T1 may not have all the latest film simulations and JPEG options, or stats that impress compared to the latest models, but don’t let that fool you—it still produces fantastic images in 2025.

This was one of the first cameras with Classic Chrome, which is the long-time most popular film simulation for those who use Recipes. Kodachrome II, Kodachrome 64, Classic Kodak Chrome, and Kodacolor are a few of the Classic Chrome Recipes that work beautifully on the X-T1, producing a vintage film-like aesthetic straight-out-of-camera. The Fujifilm X-T1 is an excellent introduction to the Fujifilm experience without breaking the bank, and it’s easy to recommend as someone’s first interchangeable-lens model to learn photography on.

Fujifilm X-T1 & Kodak Portra 160 Recipe
Fujifilm X-T1 & Kodak Portra 160 Recipe
Fujifilm X-T1 & Ektachrome 100SW Recipe

Fujifilm X-Pro2: The Soul of Film Photography

The Fujifilm X-Pro2 is a dream camera for photographers who love the rangefinder experience. Introduced in 2016, it was the first Fujifilm camera with the 24mp X-Trans III sensor and the first to feature Acros, one of my favorite film simulations. This camera was a notable step forward in emulating film-like results thanks to added JPEG options like faux grain. Of the three X-Pro iterations, the X-Pro2 is my personal favorite.

This camera is a fantastic choice for those who want an analog-like shooting experience. With its optical/electronic hybrid viewfinder and vintage aesthetics, it feels like using an old film camera. Recipes like Vintage Kodachrome, Kodachrome II, Kodak Gold 200, and Acros Push Process (to name a few) look great on the X-Pro2. This camera is especially great for manual vintage lenses, which makes the experience even more retro.

Fujifilm X-Pro2 & Kodachrome II Recipe
Fujifilm X-Pro2 & Provia Slide Recipe
Fujifilm X-Pro2 & Acros Recipe

Fujifilm X-T20: The Compact Powerhouse

When I met Omar Gonzalez on a Manhattan rooftop last year, he seemingly wasn’t carrying a camera. So I asked him if he brought one with him, and, if so, which one? He smiled, and pulled out of his sweater pocket a Fujifilm X-T20. He then told me that the X-T20 is his everyday casual camera for just walking around with. That should speak volumes. He also mentioned that the C1-C7 Custom Setting Presets were filled with Fuji X Weekly Recipes.

With the same X-Trans III sensor as the X-Pro2 and X-T2, the Fujifilm X-T20 offers exceptional image quality in a more compact, lightweight body—ideal for street photographers, travelers, and creatives on the go. Despite its size, the X-T20 retains the essential dials that make Fujifilm cameras so enjoyable to use. Recipes like Provia Slide, Everyday Astia, Agfa Optima, and Agfa Scala produce stunning yet nostalgic images on this camera. The X-T20 is an excellent choice for photographers who want a mix of convenience, quality, and affordability.

Fujifilm X-T20 & Kodachrome II Recipe
Fujifilm X-T20 & Velvia Recipe
Fujifilm X-T20 & Fujicolor Pro 400H Recipe

Fujifilm X30: The Forgotten Compact

The Fujifilm X30 might just be the most underrated Fujifilm camera. This fixed-lens compact camera from 2014 features a 2/3-inch 12mp X-Trans II sensor and a 28-112mm (full-frame-equivalent) f/2.0-2.8 lens that has a lot of character. It’s small size is ideal for everyday carry, yet it is quite versatile thanks to the zoom lens.

The pictures from this camera are amazing, with a ton of character—I especially love the lens flare. The photos are instant memories, and that’s the selling point of the X30, as the spec sheet is not especially impressive, and the camera seems a bit outdated in 2025. Recipes like Pro Film, Lomography Color 100, CineStill 800T, and Monochrome Red are excellent options. The X30 is an everyday-carry camera—just grab it while heading out the door on ordinary outings.

Fujifilm X30 & Kodachrome 64 Recipe
Fujifilm X30 & Pro Film Recipe
Fujifilm X30 & CineStill 800T Recipe

Conclusion

While the latest Fujifilm cameras have more features and film simulations, these four underrated models remain exceptional tools for photographers who appreciate the magic of film simulations and Recipes. Each one offers a unique experience: the rugged reliability of the X-T1, the rangefinder soul of the X-Pro2, the compact power of the X-T20, and the travel-friendly versatility of the X30.

When paired with the right Film Simulation Recipes, these cameras prove that you don’t need the newest gear to get great results. If you’re looking for a Fujifilm camera that delivers timeless images and an engaging shooting experience, don’t overlook these hidden gems. You might just discover your new favorite camera.

Find these Film Simulation Recipes in the Fuji X Weekly App! Consider becoming a Patron subscriber to unlock the best App experience and to support Fuji X Weekly.

Is $5,000 a Bargain or Bust?

Purportedly, Fujifilm is about to shake up the medium-format world with their upcoming 100mp fixed-lens GFX camera: GFX100RF. This upcoming model, rumored to be priced around $5,000, will feature a high resolution 100mp sensor paired with a fixed 35mm f/4 lens (28mm full-frame-equivalent, or 18.5mm APS-C-equivalent). Apparently, it will be about the same size as an X-Pro model. While this might sound like a dream camera for some, others may wonder whether it’s actually a good value—will it even be worthwhile at that price point. Let’s talk about this.

I want to start with this disclaimer: I don’t have any inside information on the upcoming camera. Fujifilm hasn’t shared anything about it with me, not even if there is a camera forthcoming, or if any camera is forthcoming. I only know as much as the next person, and what I do know I read on Fujirumors. Patrick has a pretty solid track record, so there’s a good chance that everything he has shared about the camera is correct, but until it is announced by Fujifilm, nothing can be known with 100% certainty. In other words, anytime that we’re discussing rumors, it should be taken with a grain of salt. We will all know everything when it is announced in March, and, until then, it’s only speculation.

Some might see the upcoming Fujifilm GFX100RF camera as a fantastic value. Not all that long ago, a digital medium-format camera would set you back at least $10,000, if not $30,000 or even $60,000. When Pentax released the 50mp 645Z in 2014 at “only” $8,500, it shocked the camera world because it seemed to be impossibly inexpensive for what it was. Beginning in 2017, Fujifilm basically took things a step further, and in the process became the leader in medium-format, by offering the GFX50S and GFX50R for $6,500 and $4,500 respectively. Since then, prices have continued to come down while the capabilities of these cameras have increased.

Balloons – Goodyear, AZ – Fujifilm GFX100S II & 80mm f/1.7 – Fujicolor PRO 160C Warm

The Fujifilm GFX100S II has an MSRP of $5,000. It has the same sensor and processor as the upcoming GFX100RF. A couple advantages of the GFX100S II are that it is an interchangeable-lens model, and it has IBIS; some disadvantages are that it is much bigger/heavier, it requires the purchase of a lens, and it is PASM (not the traditional Fujifilm tactile controls). Essentially, you exchange IBIS for a lens, and get a retro-styled body about the size of an X-Pro3. The most similar lenses in the GF lineup are the 30mm f/3.5 (closest focal-length) and 50mm f/3.5 (closest size), which cost $1,700 and $1,000 respectively. An argument can be made that the GFX100RF is an excellent value at “only” $5,000, considering that the lens is included.

The big advantage of the upcoming camera is, of course, size and weight, and the retro design. My speculation is that it will be the thinest ever digital medium-format body/lens combination, and maybe even the “smallest” (depending on exactly how one defines that). Comparisons will be made to the Hasselblad 907X (plus CFV 100C back) with the 45mm f/4 or 28mm f/4 lens, which is much more expensive at over $9,000 (interestingly, the Hasselblad does not have IBIS, and we’re talking about f/4 lenses…).

I think a lot of the complaints circling the internet about the upcoming GFX100RF are from those who were unlikely to buy the camera in the first place. There was always going to be an excuse. It doesn’t have IBIS. The maximum aperture is too small. It has a fixed lens. The cost is too much. If only the engineers had pulled off miracle after miracle after miracle, then they would purchase. But since the designers were limited to things like reality, what a stupid camera that nobody will buy! Of course, I disagree with that completely.

Oak Creek – Sedona, AZ – Fujifilm GFX100S II & 80mm f/1.7 – Nostalgia Negative

The lack of IBIS will deter some, no doubt. There’s a myth that more megapixels make camera shake more noticeable, but that’s simply not true. A blurry picture is blurry no matter the resolution, and a sharp picture is sharp no matter the resolution. The same rules for achieving sharp photos apply exactly the same to 10mp as 100mp. But that doesn’t mean IBIS isn’t a useful feature that’s worthwhile to have. Some see it as essential, and the lack of it on the GFX100RF will prevent them from purchasing; however, I don’t see this as a big issue for most potential buyers.

Also, the f/4 lens is not especially exciting. This maximum aperture is not uncommon on GFX lenses, and produces a depth-of-field similar to f/2 on APS-C. People looking at it from an APS-C or full-frame perspective might find it shocking, but those in the medium-format world will see it as pretty normal, similar to how f/2 is common for the X-series.

The proper take, in my opinion, is that this camera isn’t for everyone, or even for most. The GFX system as a whole is not for everyone, or even for most. The vast majority of photographers don’t need a GFX camera. Some do, and it is available for them. Some don’t, yet enjoy the system anyway. For the majority, the X-system is a better option, in terms of value, enjoyment, size, and even capabilities. It’s not “trash” or “dumb” just because you personally don’t need it, or because it doesn’t have all of the specs that you wished it would, or because it is priced above what you can reasonably pay for a new camera. I think it’s ok to say, “That camera will be nice, but it’s not for me.”

Fire, Truck – Lordburg, NM – Fujifilm GFX100S II + 80mm f/1.7 – 1970’s Summer

So, then, who will the GFX100RF be for? First, it will be compelling for those who want a compact and lightweight medium-format camera. The size/weight aspect alone will make it desirable. This camera will be great for roadtrips and exploring, something that the other GFX models are not especially ideal for. I suspect that a significant group of GFX owners will buy it as a second camera for this purpose. Second, it will be for those who prefer retro styling and traditional tactile controls. The only other retro GFX camera is the 50R, which is long-discontinued and approaching seven-years-old. While that camera was considered a bit of a sales flop, it has since gained a cult-like following. Retro for Fujifilm isn’t just about trendy styling, it’s about functionality and fun. Third, it will be seen by some as the long-overdue and long-hoped-for successor to the Fujifilm X70, which has grown in popularity over the last several years. The upcoming camera is certainly not a direct followup to the X70, but I think there are enough similarities that some will see it as a spiritual successor nonetheless. Fourth, it will be seen as a larger-sensor X100-like camera, so some of the hype of the X100VI will carry over to the GFX100RF. Fifth, it will serve as a gateway into GFX. The X100-series has been a lot of people’s introduction to Fujifilm; likewise, the GFX100RF will be some people’s first GFX camera. This is because it’s an all-in-one model, and no further investment is needed to get started. It’s a way to dip your toes into the pool before deciding if you want to jump all the way in. Between those five groups, I suspect that sales will be strong, but only time will tell just how well it does.

I really hope for conversion lenses—both wide and telephoto—like the X100-series has. I highly doubt that the WCL-X100 and TCL-X100 will work on it (although it would blow my mind if they somehow did), but something similar should be made for the GFX100RF. A 0.9x wide-converter (25mm full-frame-equivalent, or 16.5mm APS-C-equivalent) or 0.8x wide-converter (22mm full-frame-equivalent, or 14.5mm APS-C-equivalent), and a 1.4x teleconverter (39mm full-frame-equivalent, 26mm APS-C-equivalent), would make the camera much more compelling. If these two conversion lenses were $500 or less each, and a compact three-lens “system” was possible for only $6,000, that would make it seem like a better bargain.

While some are suggesting that the price will cause the upcoming Fujifilm GFX100RF to be a bust, I really don’t think that will be the case; however, GFX is a niche line, and sales figures will never approach that of the X-series. It won’t sell nearly as many copies as the X100VI, or X-M5, or X-T5, etc.. But will it prove to be profitable? I’m pretty confident that it will. And if it is, I’m hopeful that it will convince Fujifilm to begin work on the GFX100R, a long-overdue successor to the GFX50R. If this camera does well, it might bring with it a whole new era of retro-style medium-format cameras.

Yellow Brush, Pink Sand – White Sands NP, NM – Fujifilm GFX100S II + 80mm f1.7 – Kodak Gold Max 400 Expired

See also:
Is IBIS Really Necessary? Is F/4 too Small?
10 Frames in New Mexico — Fujifilm GFX100S II XPan Photographs
Fujifilm Grain Comparison: GFX100S II vs. X-T5
Film Simulation Recipes for Fujifilm GFX Cameras

This post contains affiliate links, and if you make a purchase using my links I’ll be compensated a small amount for it.

Fujifilm GFX100S II:
Amazon, B&H, Wex
Fujinon GF 80mm f/1.7:
Amazon, B&H, Wex

Introducing the Fuji X Weekly + WEX Photo Video Fujifilm X-T50 Collaborative Bundle

Last year, WEX Photo Video asked if I’d be interested in assembling a Fujifilm-related camera bundle. It could be anything that I wanted, just as long as the products made sense together. I decided on a first-time-Fujifilm type of kit. If you are in the market for your very first Fujifilm camera, this bundle would serve as an excellent all-in-one starting point.

The camera I chose for this bundle is the Fujifilm X-T50. It’s simple and fun enough for beginners, yet sophisticated and capable enough for advanced users—in other words, the camera will keep up with you as you grow. No matter where you are on your photographic journey—from brand-new hobbyist to experienced pro—the Fujifilm X-T50 is an excellent camera, so it’s easy to recommend. The silver version is my favorite, so that’s what I chose for the bundle.

“Fuji X Weekly is an amazing resource for photography enthusiasts, especially those diving into the world of Fujifilm. Created by Ritchie Roesch, Fuji X Weekly has become the go-to for Fujifilm photographers looking to explore their camera’s potential. Known for its collection of Film Simulation Recipes, Fuji X Weekly empowers users to recreate the iconic looks of classic film stocks directly in their cameras without the need for post-processing. This bundle celebrates the creativity that Fuji X Weekly represents and is picked by Ritchie to offer you a perfect starting point to explore the Fujifilm system and capture stunning images with ease.”

—Wex Photo Video

What’s a camera without a lens? The Fujinon 35mm f/2 is one of my favorites. It’s small, lightweight, optically excellent, and affordable. I’ve owned this lens for a long time, and still use it regularly. On X-series cameras, because of the APS-C crop factor, it’s a “nifty-fifty” standard prime, something every photographer should have, and the perfect lens for learning composition. The silver version of the Fujinon 35mm f/2 looks strikingly good on the silver X-T50.

To complete the kit, included is a spare NP-W126S battery, SanDisk Extreme 256GB SD Card, and SmallRig Leather Half Case. A memory card is essential to get started, and this SanDisk is one that I personally have in a few of my cameras. The extra battery isn’t essential, but very nice to have—especially for traveling—so I wanted it included. The SmallRig Half Case adds a little style and extra protection.

Altogether, these five items—silver Fujifilm X-T50 camera, silver Fujinon 23mm f/2 lens, spare battery, 256GB SD Card, and leather half case—is an excellent kit for someone just getting started with Fujifilm. With this bundle, you’re good to go—there’s nothing else you need to buy to begin your photographic journey.

This Fuji X Weekly + Wex Photo Video collaborative bundle is not available anywhere else. Fujifilm doesn’t offer the X-T50 and 35mm f/2 as a kit (they should!). The only place you can get these bundled together is at Wex. Right now, this kit is only £1,661.90 (about $2,100 USD). The MSRP for these five items, if purchased separately, is £1,841.90; however, because the X-T50 and 35mm lens are currently on sale, the price is £180 less. There’s no extra discount for purchasing these items together; this is meant to simplify the purchasing process for someone in the market for their first Fujifilm camera.

Fuji X Weekly + Wex Photo Video Fujifilm X-T50 Collaborative Bundle
Included:
– Silver Fujifilm X-T50 camera
– Silver Fujinon 35mm f/2 lens
– Spare NP-W126S battery
– SanDisk 256GB SD Card
– Small Rig Leather Half Case

This post contains affiliate links, and if you make a purchase using my links I’ll be compensated a small amount for it.

See also:
Fujifilm X-T50 — The “Digital Film” Camera — But who is it for?
Fujifilm X-T50 Film Dial Settings + 14 New Film Simulation Recipes
Putting the Film Dial to Practice — Four Cities with the Fujifilm X-T50

Find nearly 400 Film Simulation Recipes for Fujifilm cameras in the Fuji X Weekly App! Consider becoming a Patron subscriber to unlock the best App experience and to support Fuji X Weekly.

Classic Chrome is the Ideal Film Simulation for Travel Photography

Across the Grand Expanse – Grand Canyon, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – Kodachrome 64

When it comes to travel photography, nothing quite matches Fujifilm’s Classic Chrome film simulation. Inspired by Kodak’s color slide films—such as Kodachrome and Ektachrome—that were commonly used for documentary photography, Classic Chrome delivers muted tones, rich contrast, and a subtle warmth that evoke the look of classic photojournalism. Whether you’re exploring bustling cities, vast landscapes, or quiet villages, this film simulation brings a distinct analog feel reminiscent of past eras to your images.

The magic of Classic Chrome for travel photography is that it adapts well to various lighting environments, from golden-hour sunsets to harsh midday light to dreary overcast scenes to neon nightscapes. The balance of true-to-life yet expressive colors and rich contrast make it perfect for unpredictable travel conditions, enhancing the mood of a scene, and producing images with a timeless and immersive feel. Classic Chrome doesn’t exaggerate colors—it enhances them in a way that lets the subject take center stage.

Two Caballeros – Culleoka, TX – Fujifilm X-E4 – Kodachrome 64

Whether you’re capturing a quaint coastal town, the details of a historic city, the vastness of a dusty desert, the vibrancy of a street market, or the bustle of an urban sidewalk, Classic Chrome adapts beautifully. It provides a vintage, editorial look that is just as effective for street photography as it is for landscapes. This film simulation enhances the story within the image, where emotion and authenticity matter more than exaggerated aesthetics.

Classic Chrome is the most popular film simulation among those who use Film Simulation Recipes, and it’s easy to understand why. With 90 Classic Chrome Recipes in the Fuji X Weekly App, there’s bound to be a few that match your style. If you’re unsure which ones to try, below are 10 Recipes that are quite excellent for travel photography.

52 Weeks of Photography: Week 8

Lonely Table – Surprise, AZ – Fujifilm X100VI – Upcoming Recipe

Week 7

This is a one-year photo-a-day project called 52 Weeks of Photography. Even though it is a year-long undertaking, I’m taking it one week at a time, because it’s a little easier to manage many small blocks than one large chunk. This is the eighth week, so the eighth set of seven images.

The reason why I’m doing this 365 Day project is because I noticed some gaps in-between my images last year. I didn’t pick up my cameras daily. On several occasions, four or five days passed by without a single picture created. Twice in 2024, I skipped a whole week. I want to rectify this, and get back into the habit of daily photography. I also want to elevate the quality of my craft in 2025, and am hoping that this will help.

GFX100S II & 30mm – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 & 90mm f/2 – Reggie’s Portra

The plan is to capture a year’s worth of notable images, either personally or artistically. Ansel Adams famously stated, “Twelve significant photographs in any one year is a good crop.” It’s important to keep expectations realistic, but I’m also trying to avoid thoughtless snapshots just to fulfill the day’s requirement. I want to push myself to be better, and hopefully that will happen. Not every photo will be great—in fact, most won’t—but I hope they are all at least decent enough to be shared without embarrassment.

I wasn’t especially productive or unproductive this week. There are a handful of photographs that I really like, and a fair number of mediocre ones. I do feel that grabbing a camera and making pictures daily is becoming more natural—I believe the habit is setting in; however, I do need to press myself to be more creative on some days.

Below are the eighth set of seven pictures from this 52 Weeks of Photography project.

Tuesday, February 11th, 2025

Cat Under Arch – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X100VI – Upcoming Recipe

Wednesday, February 12th, 2025

Night Owl – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm GFX100S II & 30mm f/3.5 – Kodak Tri-X 400

Thursday, February 13th, 2025

Leaf on a Wet Windshield – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X100VI – Upcoming Recipe

Friday, February 14th, 2025

Seat Stripes – Surprise, AZ – Fujifilm X100VI – Upcoming Recipe

Saturday, February 15th, 2025

Light on a Dark Wall – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4 & 27mm f/2.8 – RedScale

Sunday, February 16th, 2025

Handle Shadows – Glendale, AZ – Fujifilm X100VI – Upcoming Recipe

Monday, February 17th, 2025

Nature & Structure – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X100VI – RedScale

Week 9

This post contains affiliate links, and if you make a purchase using my links I’ll be compensated a small amount for it.

Fujifilm GFX100S II:
Amazon, B&H, Wex
Fujinon GF 30mm f/3.5:
Amazon, B&H, Wex
Fujinon 27mm f/2.8:
Amazon, B&H, Moment, Wex
Fujifilm X100VI in black:
Amazon, B&H, Moment, Wex, Nuzira
Fujifilm X100VI in silver:
Amazon, B&H, Moment, Wex, Nuzira

Exposure Triangle, Part 3: Understanding ISO

Fujifilm X-T30 – ISO 25600 – Ilford HP5 Plus 400 Push Process

Part 1: Aperture, Part 2: Shutter

As we’ve already discussed, aperture determines the amount of light that enters the camera, and shutter speed determines for how long that light is allowed to expose the camera’s sensor. The third aspect of the exposure triangle is ISO, which is how sensitive the sensor is to that light. Well, that’s not exactly true. ISO works much different with digital sensors than it did with silver halide film, but the basic premise is similar: the higher the ISO, the brighter and “grainer” the image; the lower the ISO, the darker and “cleaner” the image. ISO is found in the camera’s menu, and on some models is controlled by a knob on the top plate or via a wheel around the shutter knob.

This is the simplest of the three exposure triangle elements to grasp, and yet maybe the most difficult. With things like dual-native ISO and ISO invariance, it can be quite confusing. I don’t want to get too deep into the weeds here, because it doesn’t really matter all that much. Basically, Fujifilm cameras technically have just two ISOs: base gain (ISO 200 on X-Trans III and older, ISO 160 on X-Trans IV, ISO 125 on X-Trans V) and second gain (ISO 800 on X-Trans III and older, ISO 640 on X-Trans IV, and ISO 500 on X-Trans V). The base gain is the cleanest of the two. As the ISO is increased from the base gain, the picture becomes “noisier” (a.k.a. “grainier” or “grittier”) because the brightness is being turned up, making the digital noise more obvious. At the second gain point, a switch activates the second base ISO, and the image is actually cleaner than the ISO directly below it. As the ISO is increased from the second gain, it becomes “noisier” because the brightness is being turned up, making the digital noise more obvious. You could photograph at just those two ISOs, and using software increase the brightness, and the results will be the same as increasing the ISO in-camera. Clear as mud?

Another point worth mentioning is that Dynamic Range (DR) and D-Range Priority (DR-P) settings are ISO-dependent. In order to use DR400 or DR-P Strong, the minimum ISO required is ISO 800 on X-Trans III and older, ISO 640 on X-Trans IV, and ISO 500 on X-Trans V. For DR200 or DR-P Weak, the minimum ISOs are 400, 320, and 250, respectively. DR200 and DR400 are unavailable at the extended ISOs. This illustrates another point of confusion: while the maximum dynamic range (range of details between deep shadow and bright highlight) for DR100 is at base ISO, the maximum dynamic range in general is at the second gain point with the camera set to DR400 or DR-P Strong. Confusing, right?

Fujifilm X-T50 – ISO 51200 – Nostalgic Neg. film simulation

The old rule of thumb for ISO was to keep it as low as possible, and only increase it when necessary. I think that advice is a little outdated. Fujifilm cameras produce clean results that are very difficult to distinguish from each other at and below the second gain point, and are still pretty clean at and below ISO 1600. Above ISO 1600 the noise becomes more obvious, and it’s up to each person to determine just how high is too high, how much noise is too much noise. Generally speaking, on X-Trans III and newer cameras, I personally find that color photographs are good up to ISO 6400 and black-and-white up to ISO 12800. There are, of course, exceptions to this. You might desire the gritty aesthetic produced by using ultra-high ISOs. Each person’s tastes are different.

Because (for the most part) ISO isn’t all that important, I like to let the camera choose it for me with Auto-ISO. This works with either the Aperture or Shutter set to “A” (Aperture-Priority or Shutter-Priority). In Auto-ISO, the camera will choose the lowest ISO possible, and only increase it when necessary. You can choose the top and bottom ISO values, and the minimum shutter speed. It works really well most of the time. Also, like aperture and shutter, there are full stops (ISO 200, 400, 800 etc.) and intermediate third stops (ISO 250, 320, 500, 640, etc.).

Unless you desire a “grainy” photo, you want to keep the ISO low (however, no lower than the minimum for the Dynamic Range setting used). Find the maximum ISO that you are comfortable with, and set that as the top value of your Auto-ISO (basically, you can set-and-forget). I think a lot of people worry too much about ISO and digital noise—I invite you to try a higher ISO than you might otherwise set as the maximum, as you might find it to be more useful than you previously thought. For the cleanest photographs, keep the ISO low, no higher than the second gain point for your camera.

Is IBIS Really Necessary? Is F/4 too Small?

There’s been a lot of discussions about the rumored upcoming Fujifilm GFX100RF, which might get announced next month. Supposedly, it will be a compact 100mp medium-format fixed-lens camera similar to the X100-series and about the size of an X-Pro3. It won’t have IBIS, and the lens will be 35mm f/4, which are major points of contention for some. I figured that this might be a good opportunity to explore if those two design choices will be crippling for the camera, or if it is much ado about nothing.

I don’t have any inside information on the upcoming camera. Fujifilm hasn’t shared anything about it with me, not even if there is a camera forthcoming. I only know as much as the next person, and what I do know I read on Fujirumors. Patrick has a pretty solid track record, so there’s a good chance that everything he has shared about the camera is correct, but until it is announced by Fujifilm, nothing can be known with 100% certainty. In other words, anytime that we’re discussing rumors, it should be taken with a grain of salt.

Personally, I’m really excited for the GFX100RF. I believe that an X100-like GFX camera is going to be a major success for Fujifilm. While I don’t anticipate it being as viral as the X100VI, I do think it will have strong demand. It’s also about time that Fujifilm offers a GFX camera with manual tactile controls (is not PASM). The only other one is the long-discontinued GFX50R. If the GFX100RF is a big success, I bet that Fujifilm will begin work on a long-hoped-for GFX50R successor. If sales of the GFX100RF turn out to be disappointing, I don’t anticipate a retro-styled GFX camera for a long time, if ever. In my opinion, this is a crucial release, a lot hinges on it.

Fujifilm GFX100S II & Fujinon GF 30mm f/3.5 at f/4 – PRO Negative 160C

The upcoming GFX100RF will essentially be the digital version of the Fujifilm GA645W, a fixed-lens 120 film camera from the 1990’s. The GA645W has a 45mm f/5.6 lens, which is 25mm full-frame-equivalent, and with a depth-of-field similar to f/3.2. The GFX100RF will have a 35mm f/4 lens, which is 28mm full-frame-equivalent, and with a depth-of-field similar to f/3.2. It’s not quite as wide as the GA645W, but pretty close. The Fujifilm X70, with its 18.5mm (28mm full-frame-equivalent) lens, might also be considered comparable.

Some people have said that f/4 is much too small for a maximum aperture on the upcoming GFX camera, since f/4 is not especially impressive. Unfortunately, a larger maximum aperture lens would require the camera to be bigger and heavier. Would an f/2.8 lens be nice? For sure, yes. But, at what cost? I’m sure Fujifilm was faced with a lot of difficult choices as they developed the prototype, and as they weighed the pros and cons, they made what they felt were the best decisions. So we have f/4, which is not uncommon for GFX. I count six GF lenses in the current lineup with a maximum aperture of f/4, plus two at f/3.5, and four with a maximum aperture smaller than f/4. Only five GF lenses have a maximum aperture larger than f/3.5. The decision to go with f/4 should not be all that surprising, and I doubt many—if any—in the GFX world were shocked by it.

Fujifilm GFX100S II at ISO 6400 & Fujinon GF 30mm f/3.5 at f/4 – Kodak Tri-X 400

GFX cameras are good for high-ISO photography. It’s kind of a paradox of digital medium-format: it’s good that it’s better at high-ISOs, because you’re going to need it, since the maximum apertures are typically not as large as smaller sensor formats. There are pros and cons to everything. Unsurprisingly, you’re going to find tradeoffs. It is what it is.

Not all Fujifilm cameras have in-body-image-stabilization (IBIS), but most of the GFX models do (only the original two don’t). There are a couple of situations where IBIS is especially helpful, plus a few where it can be nice to have. One is video. IBIS is not a requirement for video, but it is particularly convenient when handholding without a gimbal. Another is telephoto lenses. The longer the lens, the more useful IBIS is. Low-light situations without a tripod is an example of when it can be nice to have. For many circumstances, IBIS is not particularly necessary, especially for wide-angle lenses. Some who say that they need IBIS might discover that their photography wouldn’t suffer if it was turned off—they’re not giving themselves enough credit for how well they can hold still.

Fujifilm GFX100S II at 1/20 & Fujinon GF 30mm f/3.5 at f/16 – Kodak Tri-X 400

The rule of thumb is that, without IBIS, whatever the focal length of the lens is (or in the case of Fujifilm cameras, the full-frame-equivalent focal length), the minimum shutter speed should be a similar number. For example, if the X-series lens is 16mm, which is 24mm full-frame-equivalent, the slowest hand-held shutter speed is around 1/25. If the lens is 90mm, which has a full-frame-equivalent focal length of 135mm, the slowest hand-held shutter speed is around 1/125. With good techniques, you can often get a sharp picture with even slower shutter speeds. For the GFX100RF, with its 35mm lens (28mm full-frame-equivalent), the slowest hand-held shutter speed will be about 1/30.

There’s a myth floating around that IBIS is more necessary with 100mp sensors than with lower-resolution sensors. That’s simply not true. More resolution does not equal a bigger need for IBIS in order to get sharp photographs. A 100mp sensor has no more or less of a need for IBIS than a 12mp sensor. A sharp photo is a sharp photo no matter the resolution, and a blurry image is blurry no matter the resolution. The myth is false, and not based on reality.

Fujifilm GFX100S II at 1/25 & Fujinon GF 30mm f/3.5 at f/9 – Superia Negative
Massive crop from the above photo

I put all of this to the test yesterday. Obviously, I don’t have access to a GFX100RF. I’m sure some people have it in their hands right now, but I don’t. I do own a GFX100S II and a Fujinon GF 30mm f/3.5 lens (which doesn’t have OIS). So I turned IBIS off. I kept the aperture at f/4 or smaller. I did my best to simulate the upcoming camera, although the GFX100S II is much larger and heavier, and with PASM. The 30mm lens is 24mm full-frame-equivalent (16mm on X-series), so a little wider than what the GFX100RF will have.

The f/4 maximum aperture wasn’t a major issue. Wide-angle photography is not known for shallow depths-of-field. While it is possible to achieve a shallow depth-of-field, I don’t anticipate this being a major selling point of the camera. I imagine that “f/8 and be there” will be a much more typical shooting philosophy. In low-light situations, I did have to increase the ISO higher than I would have had to if I had used my X-series gear, but thankfully the camera does well with high-ISO.

I tested handholding the camera at slow shutter speeds. Unsurprisingly, I consistently achieved sharp photographs at 1/25, with probably a 90% success rate. At 1/20, the success rate was closer to 60%. At 1/15, the success rate was probably 30%. I was able to get one sharp photo at 1/13. Because the lens on the GFX100RF will be a little less wide-angle, the shutter speed should be increased slightly. I suspect that it will be roughly a 90% rate at 1/30, 60% at 1/25, 30% at 1/20, and maybe 10% at 1/15. Obviously, results will vary from person-to-person, depending on your technique and ability to hold still.

Fujifilm GFX100S II at 1/13 & Fujinon GF 30mm f/3.5 at f/4 – Superia Negative
Massive crop from the above photo

While IBIS would have been a nice feature, I don’t think its exclusion is a major issue. I’m sure it was a compromise in order to keep the size, weight, and price down. This camera—like every other camera that’s ever been made—is not for everyone. It has advantages and disadvantages. It will be especially great for some situations and use-cases, and not so much for others. Personally, I plan to buy it; however, probably not on the announcement day. Like the GFX100S II, I’ll have to save up and probably sell some gear in order to afford it. I think it’s going to be a lot of fun, so I’m excited to try it someday when the opportunity comes.

See also:
10 Frames in New Mexico — Fujifilm GFX100S II XPan Photographs
Fujifilm Grain Comparison: GFX100S II vs. X-T5
Film Simulation Recipes for Fujifilm GFX Cameras

This post contains affiliate links, and if you make a purchase using my links I’ll be compensated a small amount for it.

Fujifilm GFX100S II:
Amazon, B&H, Wex
Fujinon GF 30mm f/3.5:
Amazon, B&H, Wex

52 Weeks of Photography: Week 7

Curvy Creek – Sedona, AZ – Fujifilm GFX100S II & 80mm f/1.7 – Nostalgia Negative

Week 6

This is a one-year photo-a-day project called 52 Weeks of Photography. Even though it is a year-long undertaking, I’m taking it one week at a time, because it’s a little easier to manage many small blocks than one large chunk. This is the seventh week, so the seventh set of seven images.

The reason why I’m doing this 365 Day project is because I noticed some gaps in-between my images last year. I didn’t pick up my cameras daily. On several occasions, four or five days passed by without a single picture created. Twice in 2024, I skipped a whole week. I want to rectify this, and get back into the habit of daily photography. I also want to elevate the quality of my craft in 2025, and am hoping that this will help.

Oak Creek – Sedona, AZ – Fujifilm GFX100S II & 80mm f/1.7 – Nostalgia Negative

The plan is to capture a year’s worth of notable images, either personally or artistically. Ansel Adams famously stated, “Twelve significant photographs in any one year is a good crop.” It’s important to keep expectations realistic, but I’m also trying to avoid thoughtless snapshots just to fulfill the day’s requirement. I want to push myself to be better, and hopefully that will happen. Not every photo will be great—in fact, most won’t—but I hope they are all at least decent enough to be shared without embarrassment.

I had one especially productive day, and six that were much less so; however, overall I felt better about Week 7 than I did about Week 6. On the days with fewer photographs, I tried to push myself to be a bit more creative and intentional. Still, I know that I could have done better, so I need to keep at it, keep pressing forward.

Below are the seventh set of seven pictures from this 52 Weeks of Photography project.

Tuesday, February 4th, 2025

Carefully Placed Beans– Scottsdale, AZ – Fujifilm X100VI – Upcoming Recipe

Wednesday, February 5th, 2025

Paying to Park– Sedona, AZ – Fujifilm X100VI – Upcoming Recipe

Thursday, February 6th, 2025

Slide, Film – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm GFX100S II & 80mm f/1.7 – PRO Negative 160C

Friday, February 7th, 2025

Chair Curves – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4 & 27mm f/2.8 – Kodak Tri-X 400

Saturday, February 8th, 2025

Zenit-E Silhouette – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4 & 27mm f/2.8 – Kodak Tri-X 400

Sunday, February 9th, 2025

Pancake Stack – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4 & 27mm f/2.8 – Upcoming Recipe

Monday, February 10th, 2025

Disneyland – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X100VI – Upcoming Recipe

Week 8

This post contains affiliate links, and if you make a purchase using my links I’ll be compensated a small amount for it.

Fujifilm GFX100S II:
Amazon, B&H, Wex
Fujinon GF 80mm f/1.7:
Amazon, B&H, Wex
Fujinon 27mm f/2.8:
Amazon, B&H, Moment, Wex
Fujifilm X100VI in black:
Amazon, B&H, Moment, Wex, Nuzira
Fujifilm X100VI in silver:
Amazon, B&H, Moment, Wex, Nuzira

CitrusChrome — Fujifilm X-T4 ES (Full Spectrum Infrared) Film Simulation Recipe

Orange Desert – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES – CitrusChrome

CitrusChrome is a brand new Infrared Recipe for full spectrum (sensitive to light outside the visible gamut) X-Trans IV or X-Trans V cameras, like the Fujifilm X-T4 ES (“Extended Spectrum”). It’s not for “normal” cameras. The Fujifilm X-T4 ES is a full spectrum camera briefly offered by Fujifilm to the general public—as of this writing, I believe that you can still buy the Fujifilm X-T4 ES from B&H, but it requires a phone call or in-person visit, and cannot be ordered from the internet. Otherwise, you’ll have to do a full spectrum conversion—an expensive and invasive procedure—from a third-party vendor like LifePixel, Kolari Vision, or Spenser’s Camera (to name a few).

This Infrared Film Simulation Recipe produces orange, red, pink, and peach false colors. What you get depends on the exact light situation and the specific materials—cloth or organic (leaves)—being photographed. As far as I know, none of the infrared films that were sold over the years produced the false colors seen here; however CitrusChrome can be in the ballpark of Aerochrome sometimes, so situationally specific it can be somewhat convincing as an Aerochrome facsimile. What this Recipe more resembles is modern (digital) IR photography, which has a much wider array of possible outcomes. With that said, I don’t believe that I’ve seen this exact look before, so it might be a brand-new aesthetic.

Light, Color, Texture – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES – CitrusChrome

Aside from having a full spectrum camera (like the X-T4 ES), this Recipe requires two filters: True Color Infrared Autumnizer (Turquoise) and True Color Infrared Crimson (Light Blue), which can be found on AliExpress. The True Color Infrared Autumnizer (Turquoise) filter is simply a QB19 Blue filter and LB18 Green filter combined into one, while the True Color Infrared Crimson (Light Blue) filter is simply a QB19 and GRB3 (heat) filter combined into one. You probably could use a QB19, LB18, and GRB3 combination instead of the two True Color Infrared filters, but I have not tested that personally. I was a little hesitant to buy the Autumnizer (Turquoise) and Crimson (Light Blue) filters because I had never purchased anything from AliExpress before, and saw mixed reviews regarding the platform; however (and thankfully), the process turned out to be smooth. I’m not sure if the order matters, but I have the Crimson (Light Blue) filter first (closest to the lens) and the Autumnizer (Turquoise) last (furthest from the lens).

Filters: True Color Infrared Crimson (Light Blue) & True Color Infrared Autumnizer (Turquoise)
Film Simulation: Astia
Dynamic Range: DR400
Grain Effect: Strong, Small
Color Chrome Effect: Strong
Color Chrome FX Blue: Strong
White Balance: 9000K, +9 Red & -4 Blue
Highlight: -0.5
Shadow: -1.5
Color: +4
Sharpness: -1

High ISO NR: -4
Clarity: -2
ISO: Auto, up to ISO 6400
Exposure Compensation: +1/3 to +1 (typically)

Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs captured using this CitrusChrome Film Simulation Recipe on my Fujifilm X-T4 ES:

Photography Ideas – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES
Curtains and Blinds – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES
Book & Fake Succulent – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES
Red Blanket – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES
Red Shoes – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES
Toilet Trash – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES
Cyber – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES
House Behind Wall – Tempe, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES
Stripes – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES
Wall Shrub – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES
CVS Exit – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES
Garages – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES
Main Street Market – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES
Corner – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES
Evening Palm Tree – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES
Tempe Palm – Tempe, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES
Palm Tree & Contrail – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES
Craftsman – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES
Forked Tree – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES
Yellow Bougainvillea Blooms – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES
Leaves in a Pool – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES
Orange Saguaro – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES
Papago Road – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES
Desert Tortoise – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES

Find CitrusChrome and other Infrared Recipes in the Fuji X Weekly App, available for both Android and Apple.

See also:
10 Frames: Infrared in the Desert — White Sands National Park with Aerochrome v2
Philadelphia in Aerochrome — Infrared Photography in the City of Brotherly Love

Exposure Triangle, Part 2: Understanding Shutter Speed

Fujifilm X100VI – f/11, ISO 500, 1/15 shutter – Kodak Gold 200

Part 1: Aperture, Part 3: ISO

Shutter speed simply controls the amount of time that light is exposed to the camera’s sensor. How motion is rendered—either frozen still or as a blur—will depend on the shutter speed. There are a few key things to know, but overall this is all fairly easy to understand.

Before we dive in, I want to quickly revisit aperture, because there’s something I forgot to mention in Part 1. How sunstars and lens flare will appear depends on a number of factors, including (among other things) the aperture you’ve selected. For more pronounced sunstars, use a small aperture, such as f/16. If you want to minimize sunstars and lens flare, use a large aperture, such as f/2. This is just one more factor to consider when choosing the most appropriate aperture for the scene in front of you.

Forest Sunstar – Sedona, AZ – Fujifilm X-T50 & Fujinon 23mm f/2 lens at f/14 – California Summer

Now, with that out of the way, let’s talk about shutter speeds. What is it? What does it do to your pictures? How do you control it to get the images that you want?

The quick and simple definition of shutter speed is that it is the amount of time the camera’s shutter curtain is open, allowing light to reach the sensor or film. A fast shutter speed allows very little light to expose the sensor, while a slow shutter speed allows a lot of light in. Shutter speed is one of three elements of the exposure triangle, along with aperture and ISO, and must be used in balance with the other two elements. On many Fujifilm cameras, the shutter speed is controlled by a knob on the top of the camera, marked with numbers like 125, 250, 500, etc., etc..

Fujifilm X-T30 & Rokinon 12mm f/2 + tripod – 0.4 second exposure – Kodak Gold 200

Some common shutter speeds are 1/15, 1/30, 1/60, 1/125, 1/250 and 1/500. There are, of course, many other shutter speeds, this is far from a comprehensive list. 1/15 is an example of a slow shutter speed, and 1/500 is an example of a quick shutter speed. You’ll note that these are fractions, as in fractions of a second. You’ll also note that they’re half or twice as long as the shutter speed on either side, which means that 1/60 lets in half as much light as 1/30, and 1/15 lets in twice as much light as as 1/30. Like aperture, there are intermediate stops in-between the full stops—most commonly one-third stops, but sometimes half-stops.

Shutter speed is about motion, either freezing or showing it. A slow shutter speed will show motion as a blur, while a fast shutter speed will freeze it. In the first picture below, which was captured with a 1/450 shutter speed, you’d never know that the car was zooming by, because the motion was frozen. The second picture below, which was captured with a 1/80 shutter speed, shows the motion through the car’s blur. The third picture below, which was captured with a 1/60 shutter speed, shows the motion through panning, where the car is sharp but the background blurred from the sweeping lens.

Fujifilm X-M1 & Fujinon 90mm – 1/450 shutter speed
Fujifilm X-M1 & Fujinon 90mm – 1/80 shutter speed
Fujifilm X-M1 & Fujinon 90mm – 1/60 shutter speed

In order to freeze motion, there are a few considerations: the focal length of the lens, the distance of the moving object, and it’s speed. The longer the focal length of the lens, the faster the minimum shutter speed needs to be; the shorter the focal length, the slower the minimum shutter speed needs to be. The closer and faster the moving object is, the faster the shutter speed needs to be; the further and slower the moving object is, the slower the shutter needs to be in order to freeze it.

If nothing is moving in the frame, the only motion is the photographer. A tripod will eliminate camera shake; if you don’t have a tripod, in-body-image-stabilization (IBIS) or optical-image-stabilization (OIS) can help to a degree. If your gear doesn’t have stabilization, you’ll want to use this rule of thumb: whatever the focal length of the lens is (or in the case of Fujifilm cameras, the full-frame-equivalent focal length), the minimum shutter speed should be a similar number. For example, if the lens is 18mm, which has a full-frame-equivalent focal length of 27mm, the slowest hand-held shutter speed is around 1/30. If the lens is 90mm, which has a full-frame-equivalent focal length of 135mm, the slowest hand-held shutter speed is around 1/125. With good techniques, you can often get a sharp picture with even slower shutter speeds, but that takes practice.

Fujifilm GFX100S II & Fujinon 80mm f/1.7 – f/9, ISO 320, 1/680 shutter – 1970’s Summer

In order to freeze motion, for portraits, events, kids, and pets, I recommend a minimum shutter speed of 1/125, but faster is better, such as 1/250. For sports and moving wildlife, the minimum shutter speed should be 1/250, but faster is better, such as 1/500. If the motion is blurry, increase the shutter speed. In order to show motion as a blur, the maximum shutter speed will likely need to be under 1/125, and probably under 1/30, just depending on the situation. If the blur is insufficient, decrease the shutter speed.

Another shutter speed consideration is in regards to flash photography. Some cameras, such as the X100-series, have a leaf shutter, which allows for high-speed flash sync; however, most cameras don’t have a leaf shutter, and have a maximum shutter speed for flash. On Fujifilm models, this is marked by an “X” next to the shutter speed—for example, on the X-T5, the maximum shutter speed for flash photography is 1/250, which is marked as 250X on the shutter knob. The fastest shutter speed you should use with flash photography is the one with the X next to it.

Fujifilm X-T5 & Fujinon 56mm f/1.2 + flash – f/4, ISO 500, 1/250 shutter – Nostalgic Americana

The two main things to remember about shutter speed are 1) that it is used to show motion, either frozen still or as a blur, and 2) it is one aspect of the exposure triangle, and must be balanced with both aperture and ISO. Increasing the shutter speed reduces the light, so you may need to use a larger aperture and/or a higher ISO to compensate; reducing the shutter speed increases the light, so you may need to use a smaller aperture and/or lower ISO. It’s a balancing act. Used thoughtfully, shutter speed can express movement in creative ways, so take a moment to consider how to best use it for the scene in front of you.

This post contains affiliate links, and if you make a purchase using my links I’ll be compensated a small amount for it.

Fujifilm GFX100S II:
Amazon, B&H, Wex
Fujinon GF 80mm f/1.7:
Amazon, B&H, Wex
Fujifilm X-T5 in black:
Amazon, B&H, Moment, Wex, Nuzira
Fujifilm X-T5 in silver:
Amazon, B&H, Moment, Wex, Nuzira
Fujinon 56mm f/1.2 R WR:
Amazon, B&H, Wex, Nuzira
Fujinon 90mm f/2:
Amazon, B&H, Moment, Wex
Fujifilm X100VI in black:
Amazon, B&H, Moment, Wex, Nuzira
Fujifilm X100VI in silver:
Amazon, B&H, Moment, Wex, Nuzira

52 Weeks of Photography: Week 6

Palms in the Clouds – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm GFX100S II & 80mm f/1.7 – Kodak Tri-X 400

Week 5

This is a one-year photo-a-day project called 52 Weeks of Photography. Even though it is a year-long undertaking, I’m taking it one week at a time, because it’s a little easier to manage many small blocks than one large chunk. This is the sixth week, so the sixth set of seven images.

The reason why I’m doing this 365 Day project is because I noticed some gaps in-between my images last year. I didn’t pick up my cameras daily. On several occasions, four or five days passed by without a single picture created. Twice in 2024, I skipped a whole week. I want to rectify this, and get back into the habit of daily photography. I also want to elevate the quality of my craft in 2025, and am hoping this will help with that.

Desert Saguaro – Surprise, AZ – Fujifilm X100VI – Upcoming Recipe

The plan is to capture a year’s worth of notable images, either personally or artistically. Ansel Adams famously stated, “Twelve significant photographs in any one year is a good crop.” It’s important to keep expectations realistic, but I’m also trying to avoid thoughtless snapshots just to fulfill the day’s requirement. I want to push myself to be better, and hopefully that will happen. Not every photo will be great—in fact, most won’t—but I hope they are all at least decent enough to be shared without embarrassment.

Looking back on this week’s photographs, I was surprised that the vast majority were fairly pedestrian. I thought I had had a productive week—in fact, I did have a productive week; however, just not artistically. If I’m going to accomplish my goal of improving my craft in 2025, quantity isn’t going to be sufficient. I need to think more about quality whenever I have a camera in my hands.

Below are the sixth set of seven pictures from this 52 Weeks of Photography project.

Tuesday, January 28th, 2025

Fork in the Trunk – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm GFX100S II & 80mm f/1.7 – Nostalgic Film

Wednesday, January 29th, 2025

Bunches of Blossoms – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm GFX100S II & 80mm f/1.7 – Fujicolor PRO 160C Warm

Thursday, January 30th, 2025

Green Snakes – Litchfield Park, AZ – Fujifilm X100VI – Upcoming Recipe

Friday, January 31st, 2025

Fish Fan – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X100VI – Upcoming Recipe

Saturday, February 1st, 2025

Fake Snake Plant – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm GFX100S II & 80mm f/1.7 – Fujicolor PRO 160C Warm

Sunday, February 2nd, 2025

Early Spring Yellow – Litchfield Park, AZ – Fujifilm X100VI – Upcoming Recipe

Monday, February 3rd, 2025

Yellow Bougainvillea Backlit – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X100VI – Upcoming Recipe

Week 7

This post contains affiliate links, and if you make a purchase using my links I’ll be compensated a small amount for it.

Fujifilm GFX100S II:
Amazon, B&H, Wex
Fujinon GF 80mm f/1.7:
Amazon, B&H, Wex
Fujifilm X100VI in black:
Amazon, B&H, Moment, Wex, Nuzira
Fujifilm X100VI in silver:
Amazon, B&H, Moment, Wex, Nuzira

25 Most Popular Film Simulation Recipes of January 2025

Moon Palms – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm GFX100S II – Kodachrome 64

I get asked fairly regularly which Film Simulation Recipes are the most popular. For me, this is a fascinating topic, but it’s definitely hard to know definitively. While I get a glimpse on social media, my best gauge is the Fuji X Weekly website statistics; specifically, which Recipe articles are viewed the most. I don’t collect any data on the Fuji X Weekly App, so that’s no help—although, if I did, it would likely offer the most accurate picture; however, it would still be impossible to know which Recipes people programmed into their Fujifilm cameras, or how often they used each. Perhaps a survey would be particularly useful, yet even it has its limitations. While certainly a flawed method, page-view website statics offer the best glimpse at which Film Simulation Recipes are the most popular, so that’s what I’m using for this article. These are simply the Top 25 most-viewed Recipes on the Fuji X Weekly website last month (January 2025).

I didn’t make a list for December’s statistics, but instead did a recap of the whole year. From month-to-month there’s not usually a lot of surprises, as these types of lists are pretty predictable. Skipping a month tends to reveal more interesting trends. It is unsurprising to see Kodachrome 64 in the first position, as it is the long time most popular Recipe on Fuji X Weekly. Reggie’s Portra seems to now be the second most popular, surpassing Kodak Portra 400 v2, which has notably slipped. There are, of course, a number of other position changes between November and January.

Window Ladder – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 – Pacific Blues

Those Recipes with Kodak brand names in the title—Kodachrome, Portra, Gold, Tri-X, etc., etc.—are usually the most popular. Classic Chrome is the king of film simulations, as the majority of the most-viewed Recipes are based on that film simulation. Classic Negative and Reala Ace are battling for the second and third positions. Eterna is fourth, followed by Acros and Nostalgic Neg., for fifth and sixth.

Without any further delay, below are the most popular Recipes of last month!

Top 25 Most Popular Film Simulation Recipes of November 2024

#1:

A Classic Chrome based Recipe for X-Trans IV cameras that is the long-time most popular Film Simulation Recipe for Fujifilm cameras. In November it was #2, but for all of 2024 it was the number one most popular Recipe.

#2:

Reggie’s Portra is a popular Classic Chrome based Recipe for X-Trans IV cameras. Reggie Ballesteros created it by modifying my Kodak Portra 400 Recipe to better suit his style and needs. It usually ranks high, but I’m confident to say that it’s officially the second most popular Recipe on Fuji X Weekly. Of the various Portra Recipes, this is the most versatile, and the most popular for portrait photography. It was ranked #3 in both the month of November and in all of 2024.

#3:

A Wes Anderson inspired Recipe based on Classic Chrome for X-Trans IV and X-Trans V cameras. It moved up two spots since November; in 2024 it was ranked #4.

#4:

This is a new Recipe published on December 31st. It uses the Reala Ace film simulation as the base, which means it is compatible with X-Trans V cameras. I’m not surprised to see it make this list, but I’m a little surprised to see it so high.

#5:

A Classic Chrome based Recipe for X-Trans IV cameras that was the long-time #2 most-popular Recipe on Fuji X Weekly (it was #2 in 2024), but has been slipping lately. It moved down one position since November.

#6:

This is the X-Trans V version of Kodak Gold 200. It rose six spots since November, and was ranked #15 in 2024.

#7:

Reala Ace, which is for X-Trans V cameras, is the most popular Classic Negative Recipe. It’s in the same position as November, and two spots below its 2024 ranking.

#8:

This is the X-Trans V version of Kodak Portra 400 v2. It fell two positions compared to November, and was ranked #7 in 2024.

#9:

This is an Eterna-based Recipe for X-Trans V cameras; however, it’s simply an adaptation of the X-Trans IV version that has been around awhile. It’s in the same position as November, and was ranked #24 in 2024.

#10:

This is the long-time most popular B&W Recipe on Fuji X Weekly. It’s based on the Acros film simulation, and has compatibility with X-Trans III, X-Trans IV, and X-Trans V models. It climbed six spots since November, and was ranked in the same position in 2024.

#11:

This version of Kodak Portra 400, which is compatible with X-Trans IV cameras, was commonly the third most popular Film Simulation Recipe on Fuji X Weekly for a long time; however, now it is more typically found in the 10-15 range. It fell one spot compared to November, and was #6 for 2024.

#12:

A Classic Chrome based Recipe for X-Trans IV and X-Trans V cameras. It climbed one spot since November, and was ranked #9 in 2024.

#13:

This Recipe is reminiscent of scanned Kodachrome 64 slides, and is compatible with X-Trans IV cameras. It rose four spots since November, and was ranked #12 in 2024.

#14:

This is a fairly new Recipe, published on October 31st. It uses the Reala Ace film simulation, which means that it is compatible with X-Trans V cameras. Surprisingly, it was ranked #1 in November.

#15:

It is probably unfair to include the Film Dial Recipes in this list because it is not one Recipe, but 14. When it showed up in the Top 25, I was faced with the choice to included it (as unfair as that might be) or not. The Vibrant Arizona article is technically four Recipes, so there is a precedence for its inclusion. In November it was ranked #8, and in 2024 it was #18. I have no idea which of the 14 Recipes are the most used.

#16:

At one time this was the most popular Classic Negative Recipe, but now it’s second (if you don’t include Superia Negative from the Film Dial Recipe set). This particular version of Pacific Blues is compatible with X-Trans IV models, but there is also an X-Trans V version. It fell five spots since November, and was ranked #8 in 2024.

#17:

Another Classic Chrome based Recipe, for use on X-Trans III models, plus the X-T3/X-T30. It rose one position since November, and was ranked #14 for 2024.

#18:

This is the X-Trans V version of Kodachrome 64. It fell three spots since November, and was ranked #13 for 2024.

#19:

Vintage Kodachrome, which is based on Classic Chrome, is one of the older Film Simulation Recipes on Fuji X Weekly, and is compatible with X-Trans III cameras. It usually cracks the Top 15, and sometimes the Top 10, but this month it barely made it into the Top 20. In November it was #14, and in 2024 it was #11.

#20:

This is currently the highest-ranked Recipe that uses the Nostalgic Neg. film simulation (aside from Nostalgic Film in the Film Dial set). It’s compatible with X-Trans V cameras. It didn’t crack the Top 25 list for November or for 2024.

#21:

This Recipe uses Classic Chrome and is compatible with both X-Trans IV and X-Trans V models. It was ranked #24 in November, and #22 in 2024.

#22:

This was an App Patron Early Access Recipe that recently became available to everyone. It uses the Eterna film simulation, and is compatible with X-Trans IV cameras.

#23:

This Recipe was published in June, and uses the Reala Ace film simulation, which means it is compatible with X-Trans V cameras. It fell three spots since November.

#24:

The very first Film Simulation Recipe on Fuji X Weekly, this Recipe is compatible with X-Trans III cameras. It fell three positions since November, and was ranked #16 for 2024.

#25:

This was the first Recipe I published that uses the new Reala Ace film simulation. It fell two spots since November, and was ranked #21 in 2024.

See also:
How To Add Film Simulation Recipes To Your Fujifilm Camera
The Essential 7 Film Simulation Recipes to Program Into Your Fujifilm Camera First
Which Film Simulation Recipe, When?

Find these Film Simulation Recipes and many more on the Fuji X Weekly App!

Exposure Triangle, Part 1: Understanding Aperture

Fujifilm X-T5 + Fujinon 56mm f/1.4 lens at f/4 + Nostalgic Americana

Aperture is a fundamental aspect of photography. The exposure (brightness) of an image is determined by the aperture, shutter speed, and ISO (referred to collectively as the “exposure triangle”). Yet many photographers don’t fully understand aperture, and when to choose which f-stop. It’s more than just a setting—it’s a creative tool that can dramatically impact the look and feel of your images. Understanding how aperture affects depth-of-field, exposure, and sharpness will help you take control of your photography and achieve your artistic vision.

With Fujifilm cameras, you’ll typically control the aperture via a ring on the lens, which are marked in f-stops. A large aperture has a low f-stop number, such as f/2, while a small aperture has a high f-stop number, like f/16. There are full-stops (e.g. f/1.4, f/2, f/2.8, f/4, f/5.6, f/8, f/11, f/16, f/22); in-between the full stops are intermediate stops, which are most commonly third-stops (e.g. (f/1.8, f/2.2, f/2.5, f/3.2, f/3.5, f/4.5, f/5, etc., etc.) and less commonly half-stops (e.g. f/1.7, f/2.4, f/3.3, f/4.8, etc.). A large aperture (low f-stop number, such as f/1.4 or f/2.8) allows more light into the camera and also creates a shallow depth-of-field (only a narrow slice in focus), making the subject stand out against a blurred background and/or foreground—common for portraits, where you want to separate the subject from distractions. A small aperture (high f-stop number, such as f/11 or f/16) allows less light into the camera and also creates a large depth-of-field (lots in focus), which is common for landscapes where you have several compositional elements at various distances from the camera.

Fujifilm GFX100S II + Fujinon 80mm f/1.7 lens at f/1.7 + Reggie’s Portra

The closer the subject is to the end of the lens, the more shallow the depth-of-field will be, and the further the subject is, the larger the depth-of-field will be, regardless of the aperture. In other words, the focus distance and aperture work together to create the depth-of-field, whether narrow or expansive. To achieve a narrow slice that is in focus (a small depth-of-field), one should position the subject close to the camera and use a large aperture (for example, f/2); to achieve a broad slice that is in focus (a large depth-of-field), one should position the subject further from the camera and use a small aperture (for example, f/11).

The aperture you choose determines how much light enters the camera (shutter speed determines for how long the sensor will be exposed to that light). A large aperture (such as f/1.7 or f/2) allows more light to enter, which is useful in low-light conditions, such as indoors or at night. A small aperture (such as f/13 or f/16) reduces the amount of light, which is useful in bright daylight situations. Even though you might wish for a shallow or large depth-of-field, the conditions might prevent you from using the most ideal aperture for what you want to achieve.

Fujifilm GFX100S II + Fujinon 80mm f/1.7 lens at f/20 + Fujicolor PRO 160C Warm

Adjusting the aperture affects other exposure settings. If you open up the aperture for more light, you may need a faster shutter speed and/or a lower ISO to compensate. Conversely, if you stop down the aperture, which allows less light, you might need to increase the ISO or use a slower shutter speed. This is a balancing act that should be thoughtfully considered—compromises are often necessary.

Aperture also influences sharpness. While stopping down (using a smaller aperture) generally increases the area of sharpness (depth-of-field), it might actually decrease sharpness. Every lens has a “sweet spot”—an aperture range where it delivers the best overall sharpness. For many lenses, this is between f/4 and f/8 (this is generally speaking, and varies from lens-to-lens, and even sensor-to-sensor). At large apertures (such as f/1.4), lenses can exhibit softness around the edges due to optical imperfections, and also decreased overall sharpness. At small apertures (such as f/16), diffraction can reduce overall image sharpness. Selecting the optimal aperture range for your lens will ensure the sharpest photographs.

Fujifilm GFX100S II + Fujinon 80mm f/1.7 lens at f/1.7 + Fujicolor PRO 160C Warm

F-stop is more than just a technical setting, it’s an artistic choice. Large apertures can create dreamy backgrounds and subject isolation, small apertures ensure everything is in focus, while the middle apertures produce sharply detailed pictures. Whether you’re shooting portraits, landscapes, street photography, still-life, macro, or any other genre, the aperture choice will significantly effect the outcome, giving you creative control over your photography. Experimenting with different apertures will deepen your understanding of how they impact your pictures—the more you practice, the more intuitive it will become. The next time that you’re out with your camera, take a moment to consider the f-stop, because it’s one of the most powerful tools at your disposal.

Part 2: Shutter Speed, Part 3: ISO

This post contains affiliate links, and if you make a purchase using my links I’ll be compensated a small amount for it.

Fujifilm GFX100S II:
Amazon, B&H, Wex
Fujinon GF 80mm f/1.7:
Amazon, B&H, Wex
Fujifilm X-T5 in black:
Amazon, B&H, Moment, Wex, Nuzira
Fujifilm X-T5 in silver:
Amazon, B&H, Moment, Wex, Nuzira
Fujinon 56mm f/1.2 R WR:
Amazon, B&H, Wex, Nuzira

Limitations Improve Art: The Creative Power of Constraints

Round Window – Pismo Beach, CA – Fujifilm X100V – Kodak Tri-X 400

There’s been a lot of talk lately on the subject of limitations. Can a camera with fewer features actually make you a better photographer? Does the restraint of straight-out-of-camera photography force you to consider more deeply your creative choices? Were the autofocus woes of 2024 actually a blessing in disguise for some because they used that opportunity to learn new techniques and better anticipate the decisive moment? It seems counterintuitive, but can limitations actually improve your photography?

Many artists, including photographers, have discovered that constraints—whether intentional or unintentional—can actually improve creativity and technical skills. Composer Igor Stravinsky famously stated, “The more constraints one imposes, the more one frees oneself of the chains that shackle the spirit.” Simply put, less is more.

Red Yucca in the White Sand – White Sands NP, NM – Fujifilm X-T4 ES – Aerochrome v2

Photography, like any other art form, thrives on creative problem-solving. When you limit your tools, you’re forced to think outside-the-box. For example, if you self-imposed the limitation of using just one prime lens for an entire month, you’d quickly learn how to frame shots differently, how to move to get the best composition, and how to make the most of the gear you have. Instead of endlessly swapping lenses (or constantly zooming in-and-out), you’d refine your eye.

Film Simulation Recipes are an excellent example of how restrictions can fuel creativity. In order to choose the most appropriate Recipe for your style and the specific situation, you may have to consider more deeply the colors and light of the scene in front of you. This might help improve both your vision and execution.

11th Avenue – New York City, NY – Fujifilm X100VI – SantaColor

Another benefit of limitations is technical improvement. When you take away some of your tools—perhaps some features that you’ve convinced yourself you need—it forces you to master the fundamentals. Let’s say you decide to shoot fully manual for a week. It might be frustrating for the first few days, but then your ability to judge exposure, your understanding of the exposure-triangle, and your manual-focus skills will skyrocket.

The same applies to using a single film simulation for a project. You’ll gain a deeper understanding of how color and tonality interact. You’ll learn when Classic Chrome’s Kodak-like palette works best, or when Velvia’s vibrant colors are more appropriate. The more experience you have with film simulations and Recipes, the better you will be at getting the most out of them.

Flowers & Fruit – Austin, TX – Fujifilm X100VI – Fujicolor Blue

Pablo Picasso once said, “If you have five elements available, use only four. If you have four elements, use only three.” Working within a framework forces us to be more deliberate, more thoughtful, and ultimately more innovative. This is where creativity lives. Orson Wells put it this way: “The enemy of art is the absence of limitations.”

If you want to push your photography further, try setting some limits. Use only one camera and one lens for a month. Or shoot only black and white for a week. Stick to a single Film Simulation Recipe for an entire project. Maybe try an older, less capable camera for awhile. Or disable a feature that you often rely on, like auto-ISO or IBIS. If a certain limitation is forced on you—you didn’t choose it—don’t fret; instead, let it propel you to greater heights. You might be surprised at just how much you grow as a photographer. In the end, art isn’t about having the most or best tools—it’s about how well you use the ones you have. Limitations aren’t roadblocks; they’re opportunities, stepping stones to mastery. Constraints aren’t just a path to creativity, they are the path.

Can ChatGPT Replicate a Recipe??

Someone pointed out to me that ChatGPT can create a Film Simulation Recipe that replicates the look of any photo that you upload. Just share a picture with AI, and it will analyze the look and produce a Recipe that matches. But can it really do that? And, if so, is it accurate?

So I gave it a try. I uploaded a picture and asked AI to replicate the aesthetic of it with a Fujifilm Recipe. Sure enough, it produced one. I also asked ChatGPT to tell me which Fuji X Weekly Recipes are the closest. Let’s examine the results.

Test 1

The top picture is the camera-made JPEG captured on my Fujifilm GFX100S II using the Nostalgic Film Recipe (a Film Dial Recipe). I uploaded it to ChatGPT and asked it to make a Recipe based on that image. The second picture was reprocessed in-camera using the settings that AI provided. Quite obviously, they are pretty far apart and are not a good match.

Some of the settings are the same. Both pictures use DR400. Both are Grain Weak (although ChatGPT chose Grain size Large). Both have Color Chrome Effect Strong and Color Chrome FX Blue Weak. Noise Reduction is -4 on both. The White Balance Shift is +2 Red & -4 Blue. All of the other settings were different—for example, the Nostalgic Film Recipe calls for the Nostalgic Neg. film simulation, while AI chose Classic Chrome. The Recipe made by AI isn’t too dissimilar to Kodachrome II, although not an exact match. I asked ChatGPT to tell me which Fuji X Weekly Recipes were the closest, and it suggested Kodak Ektar 100 and Kodak Gold 200.

Test 2

The top picture is the camera-made JPEG captured on my Fujifilm GFX100S II using the Fujicolor PRO 160C Warm Recipe (which is also a Film Dial Recipe). The bottom picture was reprocessed in-camera using the settings that ChatGPT provided. They are far apart, and are not an especially good match, although it is slightly better than the first test.

The Fujicolor PRO 160C Warm Recipe uses the Reala Ace film simulation, while ChatGPT chose Eterna. Most of the settings are divergent. I don’t have a Recipe that’s especially close to the one made by ChatGPT, but Timeless Negative is probably the most similar. The Fuji X Weekly Recipes that AI suggested are the closest are CineStill 800T, Kodak Ektachrome 100SW, and Kodak Vision3 250D.

Test 3

The top picture is the bottom image from Test 1. I asked ChatGPT to make a Recipe that matches it, to see if it would suggest the same settings that I used to make it (which is the Recipe AI had made just a few minutes earlier). The Recipe that it came up with was not the same, and also not a great match. Instead of Classic Chrome, it wen’t with Classic Negative. While only somewhat similar, Fujicolor Blue is probably my closest Recipe. The Fuji X Weekly Recipes that AI thought were the closest are Kodak Portra 400 and Kodak Portra 160.

Test 4

I re-uploaded the first photo from Test 1, and asked the same question to see if it would suggest the same settings, or if it would change them. Unsurprisingly, it was completely different, this time choosing Astia for the film simulation (I didn’t bother to reprocess). It suggested that my Kodak Portra 400 Recipe would be the closest match.

Conclusion

I’ve said before that ChatGPT is a neat little card trick, but once you know how it works, it isn’t nearly as impressive. I’ve also said that it will only get better with time. Both of those statements still seem to be true. While AI can analyze a picture and produce some Fujifilm settings to try—which is amazing—it isn’t very accurate. It can also suggest Fuji X Weekly Recipes that might be similar, and it is a little better at that, but still not especially good.

I have zero doubts that with enough time—and it may only be a couple of years—ChatGPT will be able to analyze a photo and produce a Fujifilm Recipe that is pretty similar. It might be even closer to suggesting an existing Recipe that isn’t far off. It’s not there yet, though.

I’m certain that ChatGPT was trained on my website. When asked directly, it says that it wasn’t, but states that it was trained on various photography blogs and forums. When I asked it to name some specific ones, the very first it listed was Fuji X Weekly. So, yeah, AI did some of its learning from my website, which of course I did not consent to nor was I compensated for. I believe that this training is ongoing, and it probably will even learn from this article that you are reading right now. This is wrong, and eventually the courts will likely determine that it is completely illegal; however, by then, the damage is done, and there’s nothing that can be done.

With all of that said, I had a conversation with a friend of mine who is super intelligent (he’s a scientist) about AI and ChatGPT. He said that he is not concerned about being replaced by AI, but he is concerned about being replaced by someone who knows how to use it better than he does. I don’t think it is prudent to ignore ChatGPT completely. While undoubtably ethically sketchy, it is a tool that can sometimes be used effectively, if you understand its strengths and weaknesses. I’m not sure what that means for me specifically, other than it is good to test it now and again to see how far it has or hasn’t come. It definitely has made some progress since the last time I tested, but not a lot.

52 Weeks of Photography: Week 5

Visit Palms – Goodyear, AZ – Fujifilm GFX100S II & 80mm f/1.7 – Fujicolor PRO 160C Warm

Week 4

This is a one-year photo-a-day project called 52 Weeks of Photography. Even though it is a year-long undertaking, I’m taking it one week at a time, because it’s a little easier to manage many small blocks than one large chunk. This is the fifth week, so the fifth set of seven images.

The reason why I’m doing this 365 Day project is because I noticed some gaps in-between my images last year. I didn’t pick up my cameras daily. On several occasions, four or five days passed by without a single picture created. Twice in 2024, I skipped a whole week. I want to rectify this, and get back into the habit of daily photography. I also want to elevate the quality of my craft in 2025, and am hoping this will help with that.

Toilet Trash – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES & 35mm f/2 – Upcoming Recipe

The plan is to capture a year’s worth of notable images, either personally or artistically. Ansel Adams famously stated, “Twelve significant photographs in any one year is a good crop.” It’s important to keep expectations realistic, but I’m also trying to avoid thoughtless snapshots just to fulfill the day’s requirement. I want to push myself to be better, and hopefully that will happen. Not every photo will be great—in fact, most won’t—but I hope they are all at least decent enough to be shared without embarrassment.

I had three especially productive days this week, and four not-so-productive ones. On two of the days, I barely met the minimum obligation, and nearly chalked them up as losses; however, I decided that there was one photo on each day that was just good enough to share, so by the skin-of-my-teeth I made it. I have built into this project two days that I can miss, just knowing that life happens, and it would have been a shame to have used both of them on week five, especially since I didn’t have a good excuse. Thankfully, I didn’t have to, but I do need to be a bit more careful and purposeful moving forward.

Below are the fifth set of seven pictures from this 52 Weeks of Photography project.

Tuesday, January 21st, 2025

Red Tree Trunk – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4 & 90mm f/2 – Provia Summer

Wednesday, January 22nd, 2025

Bougainvillea Blossom Bunches – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm GFX100S II & 80mm f/1.7 – Fujicolor PRO 160C Warm

Thursday, January 23rd, 2025

Light, Color, Texture – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES & 35mm f/2 – Upcoming Recipe

Friday, January 24th, 2025

Orange Desert – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES & 35mm f/2 – Upcoming Recipe

Saturday, January 25th, 2025

Balloons – Goodyear, AZ – Fujifilm GFX100S II & 80mm f/1.7 – Fujicolor PRO 160C Warm

Sunday, January 26th, 2025

Amphibious Vehicle Ramp – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm GFX100S II & 80mm f/1.7 – Nostalgic Film

Monday, January 27th, 2025

Leaf Pile – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4 + 27mm f/2.8 – Pacific Blues

Week 6

This post contains affiliate links, and if you make a purchase using my links I’ll be compensated a small amount for it.

Fujifilm GFX100S II:
Amazon, B&H, Wex
Fujinon GF 80mm f/1.7:
Amazon, B&H, Wex
Fujinon 27mm f/2.8:
Amazon, B&H, Moment, Wex
Fujinon 35mm f/2 in black:
Amazon, B&H, Moment, Wex, Nuzira
Fujinon 35mm f/2 in silver:
Amazon, B&H, Moment, Wex, Nuzira
Fujinon 90mm f/2:
Amazon, B&H, Moment, Wex

Fujifilm’s JPEGs Are Revolutionizing Photography

Sentinel & Merced – Yosemite NP, CA – Fujifilm X100V – Vintage Color

When I first picked up a Fujifilm camera, I didn’t expect it to transform the way I approached photography. Like many others, I’d grown accustomed to shooting RAW, spending hours editing, and often feeling overwhelmed by it all, which can zap the joy right out of creating images. But then I discovered that Fujifilm’s straight-out-of-camera JPEGs are actually really good. I realized that I didn’t need to spend so much time tethered to a screen to create the photographs I loved. It wasn’t just a convenience; it was a revelation.

A lot of people are surprised to learn that Ansel Adams—the master of the darkroom—was a big fan of Polaroid cameras. He wrote a whole book about it, and dedicated a chapter to the concept of what he called one-step photography. Typically, the first step is image capture, and the second is image development, but Polaroids only required the first step (hence, one-step photography). Adams wrote, “The effect of one-step processing on both amateur and professional creative photography has been revolutionary.”

Manhattan from Pulaski Bridge – Fujifilm X-T50 – PRO Negative 160C

That’s exactly what Fujifilm cameras have achieved with their camera-made JPEGs. It’s the modern version of one-step photography. It’s not just about convenience (although it is certainly convenient); it’s a transformative approach to how we think about photography. It was a game-changer for me, and it might be for you, as well.

Fujifilm’s film simulations are at the heart of the SOOC JPEG magic. Drawing on their rich history in film photography, they’ve poured decades of analog expertise into their digital cameras. These film simulations—such as Classic Negative, Velvia, and Nostalgic Neg.—were inspired by iconic film stocks that once defined entire eras of photography. Each film simulation carries its own personality—Classic Chrome has muted tones and punchy contrast, Acros has rich monochrome depth, Eterna has cinematic softness—that give photographers a starting point that already feels curated and intentional, as if they were post-processed. The connection to Fujifilm’s film heritage makes their JPEGs feel authentic, reminiscent of analog photography—a nostalgic yet modern blend, fusing the convenience of digital with the soul of film.

Doggles – Philadelphia, PA – Fujifilm X-T50 – Nostalgic Americana

While Fujifilm’s film simulations are good on their own, what really sets the images apart is how customizable the JPEGs are. You can tweak the settings to create Film Simulation Recipes, which empowers photographers to achieve their style straight from the camera. It’s like having a personal darkroom built into your gear, which enables you to spend less time in front of a computer and more time actually making pictures. I have published nearly 400 Recipes for Fujifilm cameras, so there’s bound to be at least one that is a match for your personal style.

Fujifilm’s SOOC JPEGs encourage photographers to slow down and think more intentionally about their craft. Choosing a Recipe for the scene that is in front of you forces you to consider your creative choices upfront. This process brings a sense of mindfulness that some find refreshing. Getting the image right in-camera is a liberating shift. You can shoot with intent, knowing that the aesthetic you’re aiming for is baked into the photo as you press the shutter. Instead of relying on post-processing to fix an image, photographers are encouraged to get it right in-camera, which is a return to the ethos of film photography, where each frame mattered, and decisions were made before the shutter clicked.

Sign on the Roof – Gila Bend, AZ – Fujifilm X100VI – Classic Color

This one-step philosophy—made possible by Fujifilm and Film Simulation Recipes—is sparking conversations about the value of simplicity, the importance of craft, and the joy of photography as an experience rather than a chore. While technology can sometimes complicate photography, Fujifilm has managed to simplify it without compromising quality. In my opinion, the results speak for themselves: more time spent shooting, less time stuck behind a computer screen, and photographs that feel authentic and look great. It challenges the “RAW is best” mindset. Beginners, who might feel intimidated by the complexities of editing software, can achieve excellent results right out of the gate, while seasoned photographers are finding new inspiration in the simplicity and authenticity of this approach.

Camera-made JPEGs are more than just a convenience; they represent a shift in how to think about photography. Fujifilm has created a system that celebrates the art of getting it right in-camera by leveraging their film heritage with creative customization, which allows users to focus on intentionality. Because of this, many Fujifilm photographers are rediscovering the pure joy of making photographs. The revolution may be quiet, but—as more and more choose this approach—its impact is undeniable.

Pacific Poppies – Montaña de Oro SP, CA – Fujifilm X-E4 – Pacific Blues

Find Film Simulation Recipes for your Fujifilm cameras in the Fuji X Weekly App! Consider becoming a Patron subscriber to unlock the best App experience and to support Fuji X Weekly.

Film Simulation Recipes for Fujifilm GFX Cameras

One of the first things that I hoped to accomplish after buying a Fujifilm GFX100S II camera last month is to understand how compatible X-series Film Simulation Recipes are with GFX, and what adjustments should be made, if any. I had anticipated this being a fairly easy task, and in a sense it was, but I really struggled with this project.

Fujifilm has made a number of GFX models since February of 2017: GFX50S, GFX50R, GFX100, GFX100S, GFX50S II, GFX100 II, and GFX100S II. There are a few different sensors and processors, and the cameras can be separated into different generations. The GFX50S, GFX50R and GFX50S II share the same sensor, but the GFX50S II falls into a different generation than the original two. The GFX100 and GFX100S share the same sensor, but are different generations. The GFX100 II and GFX100S II share the same sensor, but not the same sensor as the first two 100mp GFX models. It’s a bit of a puzzle. The only GFX camera that I own is the GFX100S II, and I briefly had the opportunity to borrow a GFX50S four years ago. My GFX experience is very limited at this point.

One issue that I found when comparing Recipes captured on X-Trans vs GFX is that the lenses are not the same. Different lenses can produce slightly different results depending on the micro-contrast and coatings. While not a big deal, it would have been preferable to have used the same lens across all the tests; however, even if I could, the focal length wouldn’t be the same. For example, when I adapt my vintage Helios 44-2 lens, the focal length on X-Trans is 87mm while it is 46mm on GFX; aside from that, the Helios is noticeably softer on the GFX. So the comparisons I made were never fully 1:1, unfortunately.

Fujifilm GFX100S II & Helios 44-2 – Fujicolor PRO 160C Warm

I did make a number of comparisons between the photos captured with the GFX100S II and those made on an X-T5 and X-E4, utilizing the same Recipes. The main difference between X-Trans IV and X-Trans V rendering is that blue is a little deeper on X-Trans V with the Classic Chrome, Classic Negative, Eterna, and Eterna Bleach Bypass film simulations—there are some other minor differences, but the blue rendering is the main one. On the GFX100S II, blue behaves more like X-Trans V. The overall rendering is very similar to X-Trans V, but not 100% identical. For example, Grain is scaled differently on GFX. There are several insignificant differences that I noticed upon close side-by-side comparisons, but without carefully studying deep crops, the GFX images look pretty identical to the X-Trans V photos. Except they also don’t.

This is the paradox I discovered: the pictures look so similar when comparing colors, tints, shadows, etc., etc., but there is something that’s clearly different. But what? I couldn’t put my finger on it.

I asked a few people I know who have a GFX camera, and one suggested color fidelity, that the same exact colors just seem more alive (or maybe more lifelike) on GFX. My wife, Amanda, suggested that it’s depth, that it feels like you can step into the GFX photos, while the X-series photos seem a little flat in comparison. This could simply be the depth-of-field or the micro-contrast of the GFX lenses (or both). As I thought about it, I was reminded of the Sigma DP2 Merrill camera I used to own that similarly had a (so-called) “3D pop” to the pictures. High-ISO digital noise looks different on GFX, with splotchy colors that are typical from a Bayer sensor (and not the more film-grain-like noise from X-Trans); however, it’s not particularly obvious, buried in all that resolution. It’s probably a combination of all of those things and more that make the nearly identical colors and contrast appear different in a way that is difficult to describe, but it’s all so subtle that it’s easy to miss and dismiss, so perhaps it doesn’t matter.

Fujifilm GFX100S II & 80mm f/1.7 – Kodachrome 64

With that information, I made a decision regarding Film Simulation Recipes in the Fuji X Weekly App. I added the GFX100 II and GFX100S II as compatible cameras to all X-Trans V Recipes, as well as X-Trans IV Recipes (excluding those for the X-T3/X-T30) that don’t use Classic Chrome, Classic Negative, Eterna or Eterna Bleach Bypass (the same Recipes as the X-T5, for example). Use those Recipes on the GFX100 II and GFX100S II, as they look great. I updated the App yesterday to show those Recipes as compatible with those two cameras. For the other (non-X-T3/X-T30) X-Trans IV Recipes, dropping Color Chrome FX Blue down one spot (Weak instead of Strong, Off instead of Weak) also makes them compatible.

After that, I thought about the other GFX models. Shouldn’t they be in the App, too? Why should they be left out? I don’t own any of those other GFX models, so I dug through the manuals—plus did several Google searches—to try to piece together how they should be categorized in the Fuji X Weekly App. That took a few verified and unverified assumptions. Also, I realized an assumption I made several years back was incorrect.

I categorized GFX100S the same as the newer X-Trans IV cameras; Recipes that are compatible with (for example) the X-T4 are also compatible with the GFX100S. I categorized the GFX100 the same as the X-T3 and X-T30.

Fujifilm GFX100S II + 80mm f/1.7 – 1970’s Summer

The 50mp GFX cameras are a bit of a problem because shadows are rendered slightly lighter, and a .5 Shadow increase is necessary for those models (the GFX50S and GFX50R don’t have .5 Highlight and Shadow adjustments). A few years ago when I had the GFX50S for a few weeks, I created three Recipes for 50mp GFX. I made an assumption that those Recipes would also be compatible with the GFX100, but I believe that camera has deeper shadow rendering like the other 100mp cameras, so that assumption was incorrect; however, I left it alone in the App. If not for the shadow rendering, X-T3/X-T30 Recipes would be compatible with the GFX50S and GFX50R—you can still use those Recipes, just know that it will look slightly different (try them anyway, you might like the results). The one camera that was left out of the App is the GFX50S II. You can use X-Trans IV Recipes the same as the GFX100S; however, a .5 Shadow adjustment should be made. If a Recipe calls for -1 Shadow, use -0.5 instead, and if a Recipe calls for +2 Shadow, use +2.5 instead.

This isn’t a perfect categorization of the GFX models, but I think it’s good. If I made a mistake in this, please let me know—like I said, my GFX experience is quite limited. For those with GFX cameras, I hope this provides a little clarity as to which Recipes to use. I’m sure that having these cameras in the App will be helpful to some photographers with GFX models, so if you have a GFX camera, open up the Fuji X Weekly App and take a look.

Fujifilm GFX100S II + 80mm f/1.7 – Kodak Gold Max 400 Expired

Find Film Simulation Recipes for your Fujifilm cameras in the Fuji X Weekly App! Consider becoming a Patron subscriber to unlock the best App experience and to support Fuji X Weekly.

See also: 10 Frames in New Mexico — Fujifilm GFX100S II XPan Photographs