Fujifilm X100V Film Simulation Recipe: Kodak Tri-X 400


Leaves in the Forest – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V – ISO 3200 – “Kodak Tri-X 400”

The number one black-and-white film simulation recipe that I’ve been asked to create is Kodak Tri-X 400, but I’ve never been satisfied with my own attempts. Thankfully for you, Fuji X Weekly reader Anders Lindborg (Instagram) was able to do it! This is brilliant, and I’m sure you’ll love it. It’s the only B&W recipe I’m using on my Fujifilm X100V right now.

Kodak introduced Tri-X in the early 1940’s, and in the 1950’s they began selling it in 35mm format. Ever since, it has been the “standard” high-ISO black-and-white film for photographers. It’s been made in ISO 160, 200, 320 and 400 versions; this recipe is based on Tri-X 400. Kodak re-engineered Tri-X 400 in 2007 with finer grain and lower contrast, but it’s still nearly identical to the old stock.

Anders actually made three recipes in one: low-contrast, mid-contrast, and high-contrast. Tri-X, like most films, can be made more contrasty or less contrasty based on how it’s developed (chemicals used and/or development times) or printed (contrast filters). The recipe further down this article is the mid-contrast version. For low contrast, set Highlight to -1 and Shadow to +2. For high contrast, set Highlight to +1 and Shadow to +4. This film simulation recipe was designed for the X-T3 and X-T30, but I changed a couple of things for the X100V: I set Clarity to +4 (which isn’t available on the X-T3 and X-T30) and Grain to Strong & Large (on the X-T3 and X-T30, Grain is set to Strong). Because it adds contrast, setting Clarity to +4 actually makes this look more like the high-contrast version. If you are using this on the X100V, X-Pro3 or X-T4, feel free to try all three contrast versions, with or without Clarity, to see which you like better. For X-Trans III cameras, which don’t have Color Chrome Effect, you can still use this recipe; while it won’t look exactly the same, it will still look very similar. In other words, even though the title says “Fujifilm X100V Film Simulation Recipe” you can actually use it on any camera with the Acros film simulation—I’ve tried it on an X-T30 and X-T20, and it looks great!


Forest Edge – Fruit Heights, UT – Fujifilm X100V – ISO 1600 – “Kodak Tri-X 400”

I found that this recipe looks best when set to ISO 1600 or higher. From ISO 1600 to 3200, the results more resemble newer Tri-X 400 film. From ISO 6400 to ISO 12800, the results more resemble older Tri-X 400 film. I want to give a big thank-you to Anders Lindborg for creating this recipe, sharing it, and allowing me to publish it here—you are appreciated! Thank you!

Acros (+Y, +R, +G)
Dynamic Range: DR200
Highlight: 0
Shadow: +3
Noise Reduction: -4
Sharpening: +1
Clarity: +4
Grain Effect: Strong, Large
Color Chrome Effect: Strong
Color Chrome Effect Blue: Off
White Balance: Daylight,+9 Red & -9 Blue
ISO: ISO 1600 – 12800
Exposure Compensation: +1/3 to +1 (typically)

Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs using this Kodak Tri-X 400 film simulation recipe on my Fujifilm X100V:


Fallen Trunk – Fruit Heights, UT – Fujifilm X100V – ISO 1600


The Forest – Fruit Heights, UT – Fujifilm X100V – ISO 1600


Light in a Dark Canopy – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V – ISO 1600


Sunlight & Leaves – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V – ISO 12800


Monochrome Backlit Leaves – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V – ISO 1600


Drops on a Window – Fruit Heights, UT – Fujifilm X100V – ISO 1600


Half Leaf In The Road – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V – ISO 1600


Footstep – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V – ISO 1600


Barrier – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V – ISO 1600


Corner Benches – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V – ISO 6400


Drinking Fountains – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V – ISO 1600


Feel Like A Kid Again – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V – ISO 1600


Walking at an Amusement Park – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V – ISO 1600


Waiting at the Exit – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V – ISO 3200


Diagonal Light Boy – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V – ISO 12800


FED 5c Film Camera – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V – ISO 3200


Coffee Grounds in a Filter – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V – ISO 3200


Rainbow Feet on the Floor – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V – ISO 3200


Girl in Zebra Shirt – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V – ISO 12800


Rainy Day Siblings – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V – ISO 3200


Level Up – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V – ISO 12800


Wet Leaf in the Grass – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V – ISO 5000


Wet Tree Leaves – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V – ISO 3200


Leaf of a Different Color – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V – ISO 3200


Emptiness – Roy, UT – Fujifilm X100V – ISO 3200


Empty Boxes in an Abandoned Home – Roy, UT – Fujifilm X100V – ISO 12800


Nobody’s Home – Roy, UT – Fujifilm X100V – ISO 3200


White Truck – Roy, UT – Fujifilm X100V – ISO 3200


Dead End Night – Roy, UT – Fujifilm X100V – ISO 12800


Trolley Bus – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V – ISO 12800


Wrong Way – Centerville, UT – Fujifilm X100V – ISO 12800

See also:
Film Simulation Recipes
Tri-X Push-Process Film Simulation Recipe

This post contains affiliate links, and if you make a purchase using my links I’ll be compensated a small amount for it.

Fujifilm X100V Black    Amazon   B&H
Fujifilm X100V Silver   Amazon   B&H

Help Fuji X Weekly

Nobody pays me to write the content found on fujixweekly.com. There's a real cost to operating and maintaining this site, not to mention all the time that I pour into it. If you appreciated this article, please consider making a one-time gift contribution. Thank you!



  1. Khürt Williams · June 18, 2020

    I love this set of images, the forest ones.

  2. Jimmy · June 18, 2020

    Lovely photos, have you tried the toning feature with this recipe? I’ll mess around with it when I get the chance.

    • Ritchie Roesch · June 18, 2020

      I have not tried toning, but a subtle warming or cooling should look quite nice. Probably no more than +/- 5 in any direction.

  3. Denis MEUNIER · June 18, 2020

    Hello Ritchie,
    I have two questions.
    First, as it is a B&W recipe, I don’t understand the WB shift : why is it necessary ?
    Second, compared with the Tri-X Push Process recipe, what are the differences in terms of use ?
    (Paris, France)

    • Ritchie Roesch · June 18, 2020

      The white balance and the white balance shift affect the grey tones. It’s not necessarily a huge difference, but there is a difference.
      This recipe is a little less contrasty, less bold, but still similar.

  4. Ricardo Richon Guzman · June 18, 2020

    Hi , is the secret also the WB push????

    • Ritchie Roesch · June 18, 2020

      The WB Shift does seem to be the secret!

    • shifteleven · June 21, 2020

      Yeah. That seemed to be clutch. I now want to use that and see if I can get a closer HP5+ look. This was a good call!

      • Ritchie Roesch · June 23, 2020

        Give it a try and see how it goes. If you do, be sure to report back!

  5. Jay Abramson · June 18, 2020

    Could you post or tell us the original X-T3 recipe for Tri-X? I like the look of the images you posted and can’t wait to have a go at it with my X-T3.


    • Ritchie Roesch · June 18, 2020

      It’s the same recipe, except disregard Clarity and set Grain to Strong.

  6. Mark Crable · June 19, 2020

    This is awesome Ritchie. Tri-X was the first, and only, film I learned to develop and print, I used it for many years. I’ve wanted to shoot it again for years, but just never got around to it. Looks like now I can “load” a roll in my X-T3 and have at it. Thanks for this!

    • Ritchie Roesch · June 19, 2020

      You’ll have to report back what you think of it once you have a chance to shoot it.

      • mark crable · June 24, 2020

        I put this recipe into my camera and shot with it indoors and outdoors. I really liked the results, I can see this becoming one of my favorites very quickly. I’m going to Yosemite this weekend, I’m really looking forward to the smaller crowds and also trying this recipe out.

      • Ritchie Roesch · June 24, 2020

        It should be great for Yosemite! B&W always seems appreciate there. I love Yosemite, definitely enjoy your time there!

  7. Jacob van der Sloot · June 19, 2020

    My favourite recipe, thank you so much for sharing this! With Clarity set to +4, my X-Pro3 takes a good half a second to “store” the photo. Do you also encounter this? Or perhaps I just need a better card? The issue doesn’t happen with any other recipes you have posted

    • Ritchie Roesch · June 19, 2020

      It’s Clarity that causes that. Fujifilm recommends, if you shoot RAW or RAW+JPEG, adding Clarity after the fact by reprocessing the RAW file. I just let the pause slow me down, but if I needed to shoot fast I would set it to 0 and add it later.

    • shifteleven · June 21, 2020

      If you want a quick way to go from Clarity to no Clarity is to set the camera into a burst mode – CL or CH. That will disable Clarity and when you go back to S it will start to apply the clarity again.

      I’m personally trying to use the OVF and Clarity to slow down and treat it like a film advance – advice from Ritchie himself 🙂

      • Ritchie Roesch · June 23, 2020

        That’s a great way to quickly turn Clarity off if needed. Thank you for the suggestion!

  8. Pingback: Antelope Island State Park – Two Cameras, Two Photographers | Fuji X Weekly
  9. Gavin · June 24, 2020

    What is Acros (+Y, +R, +G) – this indicates all three filters are applied – I can only seem to choose 1 of them on my XT-3?

  10. Tony Strömberg · June 29, 2020

    Tried this, but I shoot RAW, do you have a recipe to do this in Lightroom ?

    • Ritchie Roesch · June 29, 2020

      No, I sure don’t. I don’t use Lightroom. Sorry that I can’t be more helpful.

  11. Thank you Ritchie, your blog is full of useful information and insipirations to experiment with new formulas!

  12. Pingback: On Top of the World with a Fujifilm X100V: Driving Farmington Canyon to Francis Peak | Fuji X Weekly
  13. Adam · July 29, 2020

    I’ve noticed when I add the clarity/sharpening/curve my images now say “storing” and there’s a blackout time between shots on my X100v. Anyone else have this issue?

    • Ritchie Roesch · July 29, 2020

      It’s Clarity that slows the camera down. Fujifilm suggests setting Clarity to 0, shooting RAW or RAW+JPEG, and adjust Clarity after the fact. I just use the pause to slow myself down. Also, ensure Boost Mode is enabled, that helps a little.

  14. Murtaza Daud · August 2, 2020

    Hello, this is absolutely amazing. I loved the Tix400 preset and its probably going to live on my xpro3 as an everyday preset. Thank you.

    I was wondering if you’ve seen this guys work – https://www.instagram.com/visualsbypreet/ – I understand its his own look, not a fim simulation in particular, but any idea what he’s doing to achieve these colors? I would assume there’s a lot of post processing involved, but anyway to do this sooc?

    • Ritchie Roesch · August 2, 2020

      Thank you! I hadn’t previously seen it, but it looks interesting. I think it’s probably possible to get that out of camera, I will look into it.

      • Murtaza Daud · August 6, 2020

        Thank you, that would be really unique and cool. Cheers.

  15. Pingback: Traveling With Fujifilm, Part 3: Red Rock Lakes National Wildlife Refuge | Fuji X Weekly
  16. Pingback: Film Simulation Recipe Compatibility: X-Trans IV | Fuji X Weekly
  17. Pingback: Review: Fujifilm X100V – Like Shooting With An Endless Roll of Film | Fuji X Weekly
  18. Pingback: Fujifilm White Balance Shift: What It Is + How To Use It | Fuji X Weekly
  19. Pingback: Fujifilm X100V Film Simulation Recipe: Kodak T-Max 400 | Fuji X Weekly
  20. Alex · September 12, 2020

    Hi Richie thanx a lot for your recipes. I am a proud owner of a x-t4 since last night and I’m wondering about one thing in this recipe: I can not change the value for clarity, at least not in Acros. In other film simulations this is not a problem… Do you have any idea what I have done wrong?
    Cheers Alex

    • Ritchie Roesch · September 13, 2020

      Somebody told me about this same issue they had (but I think it was Classic Chrome that Clarity didn’t work on). They called Fujifilm support and it was an easy fix, but I don’t think I was ever told what the exact problem was. You may want to give Fujifilm support a call.

      • Alex · September 14, 2020

        Hi again,
        I’m not sure what I’ve changed in the settings but somehow it seems to work now 🙂
        Thank you anyway!

      • Ritchie Roesch · September 14, 2020

        I’m glad it works correctly!

  21. Alex · October 20, 2020

    Hi Ritchie, i finally found out about the issue I mentioned here on Sept 12th.
    As long as the drive is set to ‘CL’ or ‘CH’ and not on single shot the camera can’t process ‘clarity’ because it takes some processing time (‘storing’ – screen) and therefore you can’t set it in the menue 🤷🏻‍♂️
    Cheers Alex

    • Ritchie Roesch · October 21, 2020

      Thank you for reporting back! Next time I hear of this issue I’ll know the answer. I appreciate it!

  22. Jason Heyman · October 21, 2020

    Hey, you are the best! Thanks for all this invaluable information. Please explain the the Grain Effect setting of “Strong, Large”. I was under the impression that Acros has a built-in grain effect that automatically increases the graininess of the photograph as the ISO increases and that setting the Grain Effect for anything other than ‘Off’, as is the setting with the Kodak Tri-X Push Process simulation recipe, would negatively impact the film-like quality of the grain. Thanks again, all the best. Jason

    • Ritchie Roesch · October 22, 2020

      Acros has built-in “grain” that increases in strength as the ISO increases. So Grain (in this case, Strong, Large) is “grain” that’s in addition to the built-in “grain” (at least, that’s how I believe it works, I’ve never seen an official explanation). I don’t think it negatively impacts the film-like quality of the picture. In fact, I would say that the built-in grain is pretty weak, even at high-ISO, compared to actual film, outside of low-ISO medium format film that’s not been pushed.

  23. Pingback: Recipe Custom Name Format | FUJI X WEEKLY
  24. Pingback: Lens Review: Pergear 50mm f/1.8 | FUJI X WEEKLY
  25. Pingback: Top 20 Most Popular Film Simulation Recipes of 2020 | FUJI X WEEKLY
  26. Pingback: Medium Format vs Crop Sensor: How Much Better is Fujifilm GFX than Fujifilm X? | FUJI X WEEKLY
  27. Pingback: Friday Photowalk – Eric's Miscellany + Ephemera
  28. Pingback: Beauty In Ugliness, Joy In Sadness - A Cynical Photo Walk - THE DULL CHANNEL
  29. Pingback: Structure And The Absence Of Light - THE DULL CHANNEL
  30. Pingback: Travel: 10 Film Simulation Recipes in Arizona | FUJI X WEEKLY
  31. Pingback: One Year with the Fujifilm X100V | FUJI X WEEKLY
  32. Zack · May 12, 2021

    This or your Classic Monochrome…they are pretty similar in my initial use. Which is becoming your go-to now that you’ve been using them both for a while? And why? Thanks for your hard work!

    • Ritchie Roesch · May 12, 2021

      This one! I use it regularly. Classic Monochrome is, like you said, quite similar, but I just love how this one looks. It might be the most “perfect” B&W recipe for Fujifilm, at least to my tastes. Thanks for asking!

  33. Pingback: A Different Approach + 7 New Fujicolor Pro 160NS Film Simulation Recipes! (Yes, 7!) | FUJI X WEEKLY
  34. Pingback: Beauty In Ugliness, Joy In Sadness - A Cynical Photo Walk - Paul Hoppe Photography
  35. Pingback: The Journey Is The Destination, Part 1: Getting Gas | FUJI X WEEKLY
  36. Pingback: Best Fujifilm Film Simulations | FUJI X WEEKLY
  37. Pingback: Vintage Lens Jeopardy #6: Weltblick 35mm F3.5 - Paul Hoppe Photography
  38. Pingback: The Journey Is The Destination, Part 2: Time to Eat | FUJI X WEEKLY
  39. Pingback: The Journey is the Destination, Part 3: Lodging Locations | FUJI X WEEKLY
  40. Pingback: My 12 Most Used Film Recipes For Fujifilm Cameras - Paul Hoppe Photography
  41. Lucy Murray Willis · July 14, 2021

    Has anyone been able to translate this into a lightroom preset? I love using it on my camera and I would love to adjust photos I took before I found this recipe! Thanks so much for sharing it, it makes a beautiful image.

    • Ritchie Roesch · July 16, 2021

      This is my favorite recipe. I haven’t personally attempted to replicate it on Lightroom. I appreciate your kind words!

  42. Pingback: Caught - Paul Hoppe Photography
  43. zaahir · August 1, 2021

    Are you planning on making an Ilford hp5 simulation for the xt4 by any chance brother?

    • Ritchie Roesch · August 1, 2021

      It’s on my to-do list. Hopefully I can make some good improvements with the new JPEG options. Thank you for the suggestion!

  44. Pingback: Fujifilm X100V (X-Trans III + X-Trans IV) Film Simulation Recipe: Monochrome Negative | FUJI X WEEKLY
  45. brantwinter · September 11, 2021

    Hi / I’m looking at this version of the simulation as I have the X100F but I can’t find the ‘toning’ option in the camera that is in the recipe.

    • Ritchie Roesch · September 12, 2021

      The X100F doesn’t have Toning, so just ignore that setting. This recipe doesn’t actually call for toning, so I just want to make sure you’re not asking about White Balance Shift (+9R, -9B). If you are, that’s accessed through the White Balance Menu (and not Save/Edit Custom Settings). In the White Balance Menu, select Daylight, then arrow to the right to open the WB Shift menu.

      • ilium007 · September 13, 2021

        Great! Thanks.

  46. Pingback: Fujifilm Frontier Scanners & Dynamic Range Priority | FUJI X WEEKLY
  47. daoxiaomian · September 26, 2021

    Hi Ritchie,

    Thanks for this recipe and all the others. Your website has really helped me as I’m trying to get into photography. I have a question that I can’t find an answer to online. In this recipe and some others (Kodak Ultramax 400), my X-E4 will apply a crop to the image (from L to M) when I use the mechanical shutter. With the electronic shutter, I’m able to choose the image size (and I keep it large). Could I ask you if you know why this is and if there’s a way around it? Thank you so much again.

    • Ritchie Roesch · September 26, 2021

      That’s really strange. Do you have it programmed to Medium in the Custom Preset? I’ve never encountered this issue myself. I don’t think it has anything to do with the shutter, because I most often use the mechanical shutter, and always use Large JPEG. I would double check the preset and make sure it is all set how you want it to be, since on the X-E4 you literally can program everything into it. If you figure out the solution, be sure to report back. If you can’t figure it out, I recommend contacting Fujifilm customer support.

  48. Pingback: Of Shadow & Light — Be The Light | FUJI X WEEKLY
  49. Pingback: History & Poetry of Kodachrome | FUJI X WEEKLY
  50. Pingback: The Fuji X Weekly Story | FUJI X WEEKLY

Leave a Reply