Fujifilm X100V Film Simulation Recipe: Kodak Tri-X 400

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Leaves in the Forest – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V – ISO 3200 – “Kodak Tri-X 400”

The number one black-and-white film simulation recipe that I’ve been asked to create is Kodak Tri-X 400, but I’ve never been satisfied with my own attempts. Thankfully for you, Fuji X Weekly reader Anders Lindborg (Instagram) was able to do it! This is brilliant, and I’m sure you’ll love it. It’s the only B&W recipe I’m using on my Fujifilm X100V right now.

Kodak introduced Tri-X in the early 1940’s, and in the 1950’s they began selling it in 35mm format. Ever since, it has been the “standard” high-ISO black-and-white film for photographers. It’s been made in ISO 160, 200, 320 and 400 versions; this recipe is based on Tri-X 400. Kodak re-engineered Tri-X 400 in 2007 with finer grain and lower contrast, but it’s still nearly identical to the old stock.

Anders actually made three recipes in one: low-contrast, mid-contrast, and high-contrast. Tri-X, like most films, can be made more contrasty or less contrasty based on how it’s developed (chemicals used and/or development times) or printed (contrast filters). The recipe further down this article is the mid-contrast version. For low contrast, set Highlight to -1 and Shadow to +2. For high contrast, set Highlight to +1 and Shadow to +4. This film simulation recipe was designed for the X-T3 and X-T30, but I changed a couple of things for the X100V: I set Clarity to +4 (which isn’t available on the X-T3 and X-T30) and Grain to Strong & Large (on the X-T3 and X-T30, Grain is set to Strong). Because it adds contrast, setting Clarity to +4 actually makes this look more like the high-contrast version. If you are using this on the X100V, X-Pro3 or X-T4, feel free to try all three contrast versions, with or without Clarity, to see which you like better. For X-Trans III cameras, which don’t have Color Chrome Effect, you can still use this recipe; while it won’t look exactly the same, it will still look very similar. In other words, even though the title says “Fujifilm X100V Film Simulation Recipe” you can actually use it on any camera with the Acros film simulation—I’ve tried it on an X-T30 and X-T20, and it looks great!

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Forest Edge – Fruit Heights, UT – Fujifilm X100V – ISO 1600 – “Kodak Tri-X 400”

I found that this recipe looks best when set to ISO 1600 or higher. From ISO 1600 to 3200, the results more resemble newer Tri-X 400 film. From ISO 6400 to ISO 12800, the results more resemble older Tri-X 400 film. I want to give a big thank-you to Anders Lindborg for creating this recipe, sharing it, and allowing me to publish it here—you are appreciated! Thank you!

Acros (+Y, +R, +G)
Dynamic Range: DR200
Highlight: 0
Shadow: +3
Noise Reduction: -4
Sharpening: +1
Clarity: +4
Grain Effect: Strong, Large
Color Chrome Effect: Strong
Color Chrome Effect Blue: Off
White Balance: Daylight,+9 Red & -9 Blue
ISO: ISO 1600 – 12800
Exposure Compensation: +1/3 to +1 (typically)

Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs using this Kodak Tri-X 400 film simulation recipe on my Fujifilm X100V:

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Fallen Trunk – Fruit Heights, UT – Fujifilm X100V – ISO 1600

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The Forest – Fruit Heights, UT – Fujifilm X100V – ISO 1600

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Light in a Dark Canopy – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V – ISO 1600

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Sunlight & Leaves – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V – ISO 12800

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Monochrome Backlit Leaves – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V – ISO 1600

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Drops on a Window – Fruit Heights, UT – Fujifilm X100V – ISO 1600

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Half Leaf In The Road – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V – ISO 1600

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Footstep – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V – ISO 1600

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Barrier – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V – ISO 1600

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Corner Benches – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V – ISO 6400

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Drinking Fountains – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V – ISO 1600

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Feel Like A Kid Again – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V – ISO 1600

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Walking at an Amusement Park – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V – ISO 1600

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Waiting at the Exit – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V – ISO 3200

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Diagonal Light Boy – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V – ISO 12800

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FED 5c Film Camera – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V – ISO 3200

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Coffee Grounds in a Filter – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V – ISO 3200

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Rainbow Feet on the Floor – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V – ISO 3200

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Girl in Zebra Shirt – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V – ISO 12800

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Rainy Day Siblings – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V – ISO 3200

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Level Up – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V – ISO 12800

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Wet Leaf in the Grass – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V – ISO 5000

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Wet Tree Leaves – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V – ISO 3200

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Leaf of a Different Color – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V – ISO 3200

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Emptiness – Roy, UT – Fujifilm X100V – ISO 3200

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Empty Boxes in an Abandoned Home – Roy, UT – Fujifilm X100V – ISO 12800

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Nobody’s Home – Roy, UT – Fujifilm X100V – ISO 3200

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White Truck – Roy, UT – Fujifilm X100V – ISO 3200

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Dead End Night – Roy, UT – Fujifilm X100V – ISO 12800

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Trolley Bus – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V – ISO 12800

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Wrong Way – Centerville, UT – Fujifilm X100V – ISO 12800

See also:
Film Simulation Recipes
Tri-X Push-Process Film Simulation Recipe

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42 comments

  1. Khürt Williams · June 18

    I love this set of images, the forest ones.

    Liked by 1 person

  2. Jimmy · June 18

    Lovely photos, have you tried the toning feature with this recipe? I’ll mess around with it when I get the chance.

    Liked by 1 person

    • Ritchie Roesch · June 18

      I have not tried toning, but a subtle warming or cooling should look quite nice. Probably no more than +/- 5 in any direction.

      Like

  3. Denis MEUNIER · June 18

    Hello Ritchie,
    I have two questions.
    First, as it is a B&W recipe, I don’t understand the WB shift : why is it necessary ?
    Second, compared with the Tri-X Push Process recipe, what are the differences in terms of use ?
    Denis
    (Paris, France)

    Like

    • Ritchie Roesch · June 18

      The white balance and the white balance shift affect the grey tones. It’s not necessarily a huge difference, but there is a difference.
      This recipe is a little less contrasty, less bold, but still similar.

      Like

  4. Ricardo Richon Guzman · June 18

    Hi , is the secret also the WB push????

    Liked by 1 person

    • Ritchie Roesch · June 18

      The WB Shift does seem to be the secret!

      Like

    • shifteleven · June 21

      Yeah. That seemed to be clutch. I now want to use that and see if I can get a closer HP5+ look. This was a good call!

      Liked by 1 person

      • Ritchie Roesch · June 23

        Give it a try and see how it goes. If you do, be sure to report back!

        Like

  5. Jay Abramson · June 18

    Could you post or tell us the original X-T3 recipe for Tri-X? I like the look of the images you posted and can’t wait to have a go at it with my X-T3.

    Thanks!!

    Like

    • Ritchie Roesch · June 18

      It’s the same recipe, except disregard Clarity and set Grain to Strong.

      Like

  6. Mark Crable · June 19

    This is awesome Ritchie. Tri-X was the first, and only, film I learned to develop and print, I used it for many years. I’ve wanted to shoot it again for years, but just never got around to it. Looks like now I can “load” a roll in my X-T3 and have at it. Thanks for this!

    Liked by 1 person

    • Ritchie Roesch · June 19

      You’ll have to report back what you think of it once you have a chance to shoot it.

      Like

      • mark crable · June 24

        I put this recipe into my camera and shot with it indoors and outdoors. I really liked the results, I can see this becoming one of my favorites very quickly. I’m going to Yosemite this weekend, I’m really looking forward to the smaller crowds and also trying this recipe out.

        Liked by 1 person

      • Ritchie Roesch · June 24

        It should be great for Yosemite! B&W always seems appreciate there. I love Yosemite, definitely enjoy your time there!

        Like

  7. Jacob van der Sloot · June 19

    My favourite recipe, thank you so much for sharing this! With Clarity set to +4, my X-Pro3 takes a good half a second to “store” the photo. Do you also encounter this? Or perhaps I just need a better card? The issue doesn’t happen with any other recipes you have posted

    Liked by 1 person

    • Ritchie Roesch · June 19

      It’s Clarity that causes that. Fujifilm recommends, if you shoot RAW or RAW+JPEG, adding Clarity after the fact by reprocessing the RAW file. I just let the pause slow me down, but if I needed to shoot fast I would set it to 0 and add it later.

      Like

    • shifteleven · June 21

      If you want a quick way to go from Clarity to no Clarity is to set the camera into a burst mode – CL or CH. That will disable Clarity and when you go back to S it will start to apply the clarity again.

      I’m personally trying to use the OVF and Clarity to slow down and treat it like a film advance – advice from Ritchie himself 🙂

      Liked by 1 person

      • Ritchie Roesch · June 23

        That’s a great way to quickly turn Clarity off if needed. Thank you for the suggestion!

        Like

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  9. Gavin · June 24

    What is Acros (+Y, +R, +G) – this indicates all three filters are applied – I can only seem to choose 1 of them on my XT-3?

    Like

  10. Tony Strömberg · June 29

    Tried this, but I shoot RAW, do you have a recipe to do this in Lightroom ?

    Like

    • Ritchie Roesch · June 29

      No, I sure don’t. I don’t use Lightroom. Sorry that I can’t be more helpful.

      Like

  11. Thank you Ritchie, your blog is full of useful information and insipirations to experiment with new formulas!

    Liked by 1 person

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  13. Adam · July 29

    I’ve noticed when I add the clarity/sharpening/curve my images now say “storing” and there’s a blackout time between shots on my X100v. Anyone else have this issue?

    Like

    • Ritchie Roesch · July 29

      It’s Clarity that slows the camera down. Fujifilm suggests setting Clarity to 0, shooting RAW or RAW+JPEG, and adjust Clarity after the fact. I just use the pause to slow myself down. Also, ensure Boost Mode is enabled, that helps a little.

      Like

  14. Murtaza Daud · August 2

    Hello, this is absolutely amazing. I loved the Tix400 preset and its probably going to live on my xpro3 as an everyday preset. Thank you.

    I was wondering if you’ve seen this guys work – https://www.instagram.com/visualsbypreet/ – I understand its his own look, not a fim simulation in particular, but any idea what he’s doing to achieve these colors? I would assume there’s a lot of post processing involved, but anyway to do this sooc?

    Liked by 1 person

    • Ritchie Roesch · August 2

      Thank you! I hadn’t previously seen it, but it looks interesting. I think it’s probably possible to get that out of camera, I will look into it.

      Like

      • Murtaza Daud · August 6

        Thank you, that would be really unique and cool. Cheers.

        Liked by 1 person

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  20. Alex · 14 Days Ago

    Hi Richie thanx a lot for your recipes. I am a proud owner of a x-t4 since last night and I’m wondering about one thing in this recipe: I can not change the value for clarity, at least not in Acros. In other film simulations this is not a problem… Do you have any idea what I have done wrong?
    Cheers Alex

    Liked by 1 person

    • Ritchie Roesch · 14 Days Ago

      Somebody told me about this same issue they had (but I think it was Classic Chrome that Clarity didn’t work on). They called Fujifilm support and it was an easy fix, but I don’t think I was ever told what the exact problem was. You may want to give Fujifilm support a call.

      Like

      • Alex · 12 Days Ago

        Hi again,
        I’m not sure what I’ve changed in the settings but somehow it seems to work now 🙂
        Thank you anyway!

        Liked by 1 person

      • Ritchie Roesch · 12 Days Ago

        I’m glad it works correctly!

        Like

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