Many years ago I used to develop my own black-and-white film. It required removing the film from the cassette, winding it around a developing reel, and placing the reel into a developing canister—all in complete darkness! It was very tricky. If you didn’t get the film wound onto the reel quite right, it could ruin the film during development. When people think of darkrooms, they often think of dipping photosensitive papers into tubs of chemicals in dim amber light. This red light is called a safelight, and it’s safe for photographic paper, but not safe for undeveloped photographic film—that’s why you have to get the film from the cassette to the canister in complete darkness.
Ilford Ortho Plus 80 film is different, as it’s orthochromatic, which means it’s sensitive to blue and green light but not red, making it possible to transfer the film from the cassette to the canister under a safelight. This film was introduced in 2019, so it hasn’t been around very long. It produces sharp, fine-grain images that are fairly contrasty for a low-ISO film, and reds will be rendered dark. I’ve never used this film myself, so I relied on pictures I found on the internet to create this recipe. With film, how it’s shot, developed, and printed or scanned can have a big impact on how it looks, and that’s certainly a challenge for creating a facsimile on Fujifilm cameras, but I think this one is pretty close from the pictures I’ve seen. It also seems to be in the neighborhood of Washi S 50.
I set Monochromatic Color (Toning) to WC +1 because many of the examples that I found had some warm toning (not sure if it’s in-software after scanning or from toned prints or both), but it’s completely optional, you can set WC to 0 if you prefer. This recipe is intended for newer X-Trans IV cameras, such as the Fujifilm X100V, X-T4, X-Pro3 and X-S10, and isn’t compatible with other cameras; however, if you disregard Clarity you can achieve something similar on the X-T3 and X-T30, but it won’t be exactly the same (feel free to try).
Dynamic Range: DR400
Noise Reduction: -4
Toning: WC +1, MG 0
Grain Effect: Weak, Small
Color Chrome Effect: Strong
Color Chrome Effect Blue: Off
White Balance: 7000K, -5 Red & 0 Blue
ISO: Auto, up to ISO 6400
Exposure Compensation: +1/3 to +1 (typically)
Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs using this Ilford Ortho Plus 80 film simulation recipe on my Fujifilm X100V:
See also: Film Simulation Recipes
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Thanks for the new b&w recipe. I really like the Zipping photo. Have a good week.
Sent from my iPad
Thanks so much! I appreciate the kind words of encouragement!
Gonna try it out this week, thanks Ritchie!
Awesome! Let me know how it goes.
I try to see what kind of result I get on an X-T3….thanks. I recognize my own kid glued to the tablet in your picture 😉
Lol! It’s amazing how quickly little kids figure out how to operate tech stuff.
This one is a big hit, for me. Should bring my b&w work with the X100V some steps further. Thank you so much!
Love this look. Ortho is one of my favorite films. Going to give this a try today.
Awesome! I hope you like it!
Great sim! Thank you for this one. I have noticed my camera takes longer to process this look than most other sims. Do you confirm on that? Have a great day.
I just found out it’s “clarity” setting that’s slowing things down a little bit. No worries. I go slow too..
Clarity does, in fact, slow it down. Enabling Boost Mode helps a little, but it’s still slow.
Many thanks for this; looking forwards to trying out on the X100V
Love this look. I’m seeing a brownish/chocolatey tint in these samples. Where would that be coming from in terms of the applied simulation settings? Will be trying this on my X100F (unfortunately I’ll have to do without clarity and colour chrome effect), but I’ll try apply clarity in post on CaptureOne.
That’s from the B&W Toning, something that the X100F doesn’t have. You could add that in post if you’d like. I’m glad that you like it!
can I use this black and white recipe for Fujifilm XE3 model and XT-1 model camera?
Unfortunately, no, it’s just not compatible with either model.
Hi there! This used to be my main b/w recipe until I discover Kodak T-Max 400. Gives very interesting results (to me) when underexposed, especially in nature (not tested so much in urban or indor). The look you get is quite disturbing, ominous and even scary. Ok, I am probably overreactingat but, that’s what it conveys to me.
Cheers my friend!
I love it! Makes me want to go out right now and shoot with it. Thanks!
Hahaha cool! Have a nice day my friend!