Fujifilm settings

Universal Negative — 14 Fujifilm X100VI (X-Trans V) Film Simulation Recipes (Yes, 14!!)

Posted on by Ritchie Roesch

When Fujifilm released the X-T50 last year, it had a new feature: a Film Dial. In my pursuit of figuring out how to use it effectively, I created the Film Dial Recipe set, a group of 14 Recipes that are really just one “Universal Recipe” (set of settings) that work well with any of the 20 film simulations (I grouped all four Acros options together, as well as all four Monochrome; hence 14 Recipes and not 20). This technique makes the X-T50—and now the X-M5, which also has the Film Dial—more versatile than the other X-series cameras for the straight-out-of-camera photographer. At least so I thought.

As it turns out, this technique can be used on any Fujifilm camera, simply by assigning one of the customizable knobs, wheels, rings, or buttons to activate the film simulation menu. The X-S10 and X-S20 have an unmarked knob on top that are factory-default set for this purpose. On other cameras, the rear command dial (R-Dial in the Fn settings menu) can be set to activate the film simulation menu. On my Fujifilm X100VI, I programmed the Control Ring to adjust the film simulation. On one hand the Film Dial is preferable: you can see what the film simulation is set to just by looking at the camera, it can be adjusted with the camera powered off, and it won’t reset when the camera is powered on. On the other hand, the non-Film Dial cameras are preferable: you have quick access to all 20 film simulations, and not limited by the 12 slots found on the Film Dial. There are advantages and disadvantages to both, and I prefer the Film Dial personally. But the light bulb moment for me was realizing that the Film Dial Recipe can be used on many cameras, and not just those with the Film Dial—I use it regularly on several different models, including my X100VI, X-T5, and GFX100S II.

Fujifilm’s film simulations are good straight-out-of-the-box, but with some parameter adjustments, they can become great. To get the most out of the various film simulations, you need to make changes to the factory-default settings (a.k.a. use Film Simulation Recipes). However, the Film Dial becomes problematic when you do this because rarely do multiple film simulations look good with the same Recipe settings. Sometimes they do, such as with Kodak Portra 400 v2, Vintage Vibes, and Ferrania Solaris FG 400, which require the same exact settings (note: set Color Chrome FX Blue to Off on X-Trans V), but use three different film simulations: Classic Chrome, Classic Negative, and Eterna Bleach Bypass. Most of the time, however, whenever you use a different film sim than what the Recipe calls for, the results are less than spectacular, such as when Omar Gonzalez accidentally used Classic Chrome instead of Classic Negative with the Agfa Vista 100 Recipe. Creating a “Universal Recipe” like the Film Dial Recipe is not an easy task.

Not content with having just one “Universal Recipe”, I set out to create another. I’ve been working on this one for more than three months now, and I’m excited to share it with you. It can be used in conjunction with the Film Dial on the X-T50 and X-M5; however, it can also be used on any fifth-generation X-Trans camera or even the latest GFX models. I created this Recipe on my Fujifilm X100VI, and all of the photos below were made using that camera. Also, if you don’t want to use it as a “Universal Recipe” but you like the results of just one of them—such as Classic Negative (a.k.a. “Fujicolor Superia 200”) below—simply use that one standalone. Or pick your favorite three and use it in conjunction with the Film Simulation Bracket feature.

I wanted this new universal option, which I’m calling Universal Negative, to be different than the Film Dial Recipe set. I didn’t want to merely repackage a small adjustment to it; I wanted something significantly divergent, and maybe a tad more film-like. Hopefully that’s what I accomplished here. My plan is to have both this Universal Negative Recipe set and the Film Dial Recipe set programmed into at least one of my cameras (right now it’s my X100VI), which really just opens up the opportunity to achieve various looks in-camera. It’s kind of like having C1-C35, instead of just C1-C7. While this is intended for fifth-generation models (currently: X-H2s, X-H2, X-T5, X-S20, X100VI, X-T50, and X-M5), it can also be used on X-Trans IV (except the X-T3 and X-T30); however, blue will render slightly less deeply on Classic Chrome, Classic Negative, Eterna, and Eterna Bleach Bypass, and some film sims won’t be available.

Film Simulation: Any (See Below)
Dynamic Range: DR400
Grain Effect: Strong, Small
Color Chrome Effect: Strong
Color Chrome FX Blue: Strong 
White Balance: 4000K, 0 Red & -5 Blue
Highlight: 0
Shadow: -2
Color: -2
Sharpness: -2
High ISO NR: -4
Clarity: 0
ISO: Auto, up to ISO 6400
Exposure Compensation: -1/3 to +2/3 (typically)

Additionally, for Acros and Monochrome, set Monochromatic Color to WC 0 & MG 0 (a.k.a. Off). Also, Color will be disabled for Acros, Monochrome, and Sepia. For Eterna and Acros, ISO can be up to ISO 12800.

Provia/STD — “Universal Provia”

This “Universal Provia” Recipe doesn’t much resemble real Provia film, but that doesn’t mean it doesn’t produce an appealing aesthetic. It is true-to-life with a slight analog vibe, perhaps reminiscent of a Fujicolor Crystal Archive print. It’s kind of a Goldilocks Recipe—not too vibrant or muted, not too contrasty or flat, not too warm or cool. For best results, use in sunny daylight; however, it can do well in shade, indoor natural light, and even blue-hour with artificial light.

Velvia/Vivid — “Velvia 100F”

Velvia was the go-to film for vibrant landscape photography. If you wanted the colors to pop, Velvia 50 slide film is what you’d want to use. There were multiple versions of Velvia, and Velvia 100F (not to be confused with Velvia 100) was the least saturated of them all. This “Velvia 100F” Recipe isn’t strictly modeled after the emulsion, but it is in the ballpark, and close enough to name this after the film. This is an excellent option for colorful pictures that are not over-the-top vibrant. Great for sunny daylight landscapes, golden hour, sunrise/sunset, and even some nighttime situations.

Astia/Soft — “Indoor Astia”

This “Indoor Astia” Recipe is my favorite of all these for indoor natural light photography. It’s also good for sunny daylight, dreary overcast, and nighttime pictures. While this Recipe is more similar to actual Astia 100F film than the film simulation is when set to the factory default settings, it’s not necessarily a good match for the emulsion.

Classic Chrome — “Elite Chrome”

Elite Chrome was Kodak’s consumer-grade version of Ektachrome color slide film, produced in the late-1990’s and early-2000’s. While this “Elite Chrome” Recipe wasn’t modeled after the emulsion, surprisingly it does resemble Elite Chrome 100 film to a degree. For best results, use in sunny daylight; however, it does do well in overcast and blue hour light.

Reala Ace — “Retro Negative”

Reala Ace is Fujifilm’s newest film simulation. It’s purportedly based on Reala film, but it’s not a very close replication of that emulsion, which is in the Superia line, and more similar to Classic Negative. Instead, Reala Ace is nearer to the Fujicolor PRO 160 line, and shares similarities with PRO Neg. Std and PRO Neg. Hi. Reala Ace probably should have been named PRO Neg. C, since it is most similar to Fujicolor PRO 160C film. Of the three “PRO Neg.” film sims, Reala Ace is my personal favorite. This “Retro Negative” Recipe is reminiscent of color negative film from the 1980’s and ’90’s, and might even remind you of some photos printed in magazines from that time frame. I found it is quite excellent for golden hour and blue hour photography; however, it’s good for a lot of different subjects and situations, including rainy days, natural light indoors, and portrait photography.

PRO Neg. Hi — “Fuji Negative”

This “Fuji Negative” Recipe is generally similar to various Fujicolor negative films, without mimicking any one specifically. This is probably my favorite of this group for overcast light, but it also does well in sunny daylight and blue hour.

PRO Neg. Std — “Pulled Negative”

Pulling film means to overexpose a little, then reduce the development time to compensate. The results are lower contrast photos with less pop. You could consider this “Pulled Negative” Recipe a one-stop pulled version of the “Fuji Negative” Recipe above. This Recipe is one of the best of this group for artificial light situations, such as nighttime and indoors.

Classic Negative — “Fujicolor Superia 200”

This “Fujicolor Superia 200” Recipe is probably my favorite of this group. Inadvertently, it’s reminiscent of Fujicolor Superia 200 color negative film, which was introduced in 1998 and discontinued in 2017. I especially like this Recipe for indoor natural and artificial light situations; however, it’s good for many subjects and light scenarios.

Nostalgic Neg. – “Americana Film”

Nostalgic Neg. is the second most recent addition to the film simulation lineup, and is modeled after American New Color images from the 1970’s. The Nostalgic Neg. film simulation has a strong Kodak aesthetic, particularly photographic prints from five decades ago. This is the warmest film sim, which means that this “Americana Film” Recipe is the warmest of this group. It’s great for portraits or any situation where you want a retro rendering.

Eterna/Cinema — “Eterna Film”

This “Eterna Film” Recipe is the second lowest saturated and least contrasty of all the color options in this series. It has a lovely soft cinematic quality that is especially great for taming high-contrast scenes; however, it has a limited use-case where it does well. I had trouble finding scenarios where it was the most appropriate option for the situation, but occasionally I did.

Eterna Bleach Bypass — “Chrome City”

Eterna Bleach Bypass has the lowest saturation and highest contrast of all of the film simulations. Bleach bypass is a development technique where the bleach step is reduced or eliminated, resulting in a high-contrast, low-saturation image that almost appears like a B&W picture over a color picture. It can be used in still photography, but is more commonly found in motion pictures (think Saving Private Ryan). This “Chrome City” Recipe is reminiscent of LomoChrome Metropolis film, which is an emulsion by Lomography that mimics the aesthetic of the bleach bypass technique. The results from this Recipe can be spectacular, and it’s one of my favorites from this group; however, it’s definitely not for every subject or situation.

Acros, Acros+Y, Acros+R, Acros+G — “Acros Negative”

Fujifilm introduced Neopan Acros black-and-white negative film back in 1952. Neopan Acros came in four versions: ISO 100, ISO 400, ISO 1600, plus an ISO 400 version for C41 development that was actually repackaged Ilford XP2 Super 400. Neopan Acros was briefly discontinued in 2018, and reintroduced in 2019 as Neopan Acros 100 II. Curiously, the new version is actually manufactured by Harman (the parent company of Ilford), although it behaves quite similarly to the original.

Typically, I prefer contrasty black-and-white pictures; however, this “Acros Negative” Recipe is fairly low-contrast. It has to be used thoughtfully, or else the pictures will look slightly muddy. The Acros filter options (+Y, +R, +G) are your friend, and this Recipe thrives on high-contrast scenes. In the right situations, the results can be wonderful. For grainer pictures, use higher ISOs, as the Acros film sim has built-in Grain that increases with the ISO. If I could only pick one Acros option for the “Acros Negative” Recipe, I’d go with Acros+R.

Monochrome, Monochrome+Y, Monochrome+R, Monochrome+G — “B&W Negative”

The Monochrome film simulation is simply Provia with the color turned off. It was the standard B&W film sim until the introduction of Acros on X-Trans III. Generally speaking, I like Acros much more than Monochrome, as Acros has more of an analog feel to it; however, Monochrome does have a slightly harsher tonality, so there are times that the Monochrome film simulation could be preferable, and you might choose this “B&W Negative” Recipe. Similar to the “Acros Negative” Recipe above, this one thrives in high contrast light, and the filter options (+Y, +R, +G) are your friends.

Sepia — “B&W Sepia”

Last and least is Sepia. This film simulation has been around for a long time, but very few use it. If Fujifilm discontinued it, most probably wouldn’t even notice. Sepia is a darkroom technique where you bathe B&W prints in a chemical for archival and artistic purposes. Most commonly, Sepia baths are quick, and the toning subtle; however, the prints can be left in longer, resulting in a pronounced reddish/brown tone (this film simulation replicates that), which was popular a hundred or more years ago. For a more subtle effect, simply use either “Acros Negative” or “Monochrome Negative” with Monochromatic Color set to WC +2 MG -2. Most likely you’ll skip this one, but if you’re looking for something different, maybe give it a try.

Find these 14 Film Simulation Recipes and many more in the Fuji X Weekly App! Consider becoming a Patron subscriber to unlock the best App experience and to support Fuji X Weekly.

This post contains affiliate links, and if you make a purchase using my links I’ll be compensated a small amount for it.

Fujifilm X100VI in black:
Amazon, B&H, Moment, Wex, Nuzira
Fujifilm X100VI in silver:
Amazon, B&H, Moment, Wex, Nuzira

See also: Fujifilm X-T50 Film Dial Settings + 14 Film Simulation Recipes

Hidden Gems: 5 Underrated Film Simulation Recipes You Should Try Today

Posted on by Ritchie Roesch

Aspen Gold – Flagstaff, AZ – Fujifilm X100V – CineStill 400D v2

Fujifilm cameras are special. With 20 Film Simulations (on the latest models) that are crafted using Fujifilm’s vast experience with analog film, and the ability to fine-tune them into Recipes, you can achieve incredible straight-out-of-camera results. I’ve published nearly 400 Film Simulation Recipes, most of which are modeled after the aesthetics of classic film stocks. Some Recipes get all the attention, particularly those that are Classic Chrome-based, like Kodachrome 64 and Kodak Portra 400 v2. In this article, I’m going to suggest some lesser-used gems.

If you’re looking for something new to try—maybe one that is less commonly used—these five underrated Film Simulation Recipes deserve a spot in your camera’s Custom Settings. Give them a try, and you might just find your next go-to look!

  1. Fujifilm Negative
Camera Conversation – Philadelphia, PA – Fujifilm X-T5 – Fujifilm Negative – by Amanda Roesch

Fujifilm has a long history of producing amazing film stocks, and this Fujifilm Negative Recipe is inspired by their color negative films of the past, particularly Fujicolor PRO 160NS. With soft contrast, balanced colors, and a subtle vintage warmth, it creates a beautiful everyday look. Whether you’re shooting portraits, street photography, landscapes, or travel, Fujifilm Negative delivers a timeless feel that works in a variety of lighting conditions. Since this Recipe uses the new Reala Ace film sim, it is only compatible with fifth-generation X-series cameras, plus the newest GFX models.

  1. Kodak Ektachrome E00VS v1
Saguaro & Abandoned Building – Vulture City, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – Kodak Ektachrome E100VS v1

If you love vibrant colors, the Kodak Ektachrome E100VS v1 Recipe is a fantastic choice. With an aesthetic similar to the slide film of the same name, which was one of my favorites 20 or 25 years ago, this Recipe produces deep blues, rich reds, and strong contrast that make images pop with its bold colors (thanks to the Velvia film sim that it uses). It’s perfect for colorful urban scenes, sunsets, landscapes, and travel photography. Since it uses Auto White Balance, it’s quite versatile; however, just like the film, it’s not a good choice for portrait photography. This Recipe is compatible with X-Trans IV (except the X-T3/X-T30) and X-Trans V cameras, plus newer GFX models.

  1. Eterna Summer
Betsy the Burgundy Bullet – Austin, TX – Fujifilm X100VI – Eterna Summer

The Eterna Film Simulation is often associated with soft, low-contrast tones, but the Eterna Summer Recipe adds warmth, vibrancy, and contrast. Sunlit scenes have a dreamy, vintage, and almost cinematic feel, with soft shadows and bright highlights. It’s especially great for roadtrips, urban scenes, portraits, and hot summer afternoons when you want to capture the golden essence of the season. For best results, use in sunny daylight situations. This Recipe is compatible with “newer” X-Trans IV cameras, all X-Trans V, and many GFX models.

  1. CineStill 400D v2
City of Grace Tower – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – CineStill 400D v2

The CineStill 400D v2 Recipe is inspired by CineStill 400D film, which is known for its cinematic feel and warm tones. This Recipe produces soft highlights, slightly punchy colors, and a dream-like quality, making it a good choice for both daytime and blue-hour photography. CineStill 400D v2 uses the Astia Film Simulation, and is great for landscapes and street photography, especially during golden-hour. This Recipe is compatible with X-Trans IV (except the X-T3/X-T30) and X-Trans V cameras, plus the 100mp GFX models.

  1. Kodak Negative
Fall at Boulder Lake – Clinton, CT – Fujifilm X-T5 – Kodak Negative

The Kodak Negative Recipe, which is reminiscent of some vibrant negative film stocks by Kodak, is quite versatile, thanks to the use of Auto White Balance. It has the right amount of warmth, saturation, and contrast for many subjects and situations. Because it uses the Nostalgic Neg. Film Simulation, it has a vintage feel that is easy to appreciate. This Recipe is only compatible with the fifth-generation X-series cameras, plus the newest GFX models.

Final Thoughts

Rock Rings – Saguaro National Park, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – Eterna Summer

These five underrated Film Simulation Recipes are waiting to be discovered! Whether you’re after a nostalgic analog look, a punchy slide film aesthetic, or a dreamy cinematic feel, there’s something here for your next photographic adventure. The best way to find out which Recipes are your favorites is to get out and try them—so load one of these Recipes into your Fujifilm camera and see what magic you can create!

See also: Hidden Gems: Underrated Fujifilm Cameras for SOOC Photography

Find these Film Simulation Recipes and many more in the Fuji X Weekly App! Consider becoming a Patron subscriber to unlock the best App experience and to support Fuji X Weekly.

What new JPEG Settings Should Fujifilm Introduce Next?

Posted on by Ritchie Roesch

Fujifilm has the best JPEG output in the camera industry, in my opinion. That’s not to say the others are garbage, because some brands are pretty good (Ricoh, for example); however, they are not all equal, and—in my view—Fujifilm is at the very top when it comes to straight-out-of-camera photography. Leaning into their long history of making analog film, they’ve crafted Film Simulations and various JPEG options (which together make Film Simulation Recipes) that achieve authentic aesthetics that don’t require editing.

Over the years Fujifilm has added many new Film Simulations and JPEG settings so that photographers can get a wider variety of looks straight-out-of-camera. Nostalgic Negative and Reala Ace are found on the latest generation of models. Eterna Bleach Bypass and .5 Highlight and Shadow adjustments were introduced with the Fujifilm X-T4. Classic Negative, Grain size, Color Chrome FX Blue, and Clarity were first found on the X-Pro3. So what should Fujifilm introduce next? What new Film Simulations and JPEG settings should be added to future cameras?

Fujifilm X100V & Pop Color Advanced Filter

There are a number of Film Simulations that Fujifilm could make. Probably the easiest would be Fortia, which would simply require moving Pop Color from Advanced Filters to the Film Simulation set. Another easy option would be a new B&W Film Simulation (maybe called Neopan) that would essentially be a higher contrast and grainer version of Acros. A Film Simulations that I believe would be a big hit is one modeled Fujicolor PRO 400H that turns pastel when overexposed, like the film was famous for. Another option that I would like to see is Cross Process, modeled after Velvia 50 developed in C41 chemistry. A fifth potential future Film Simulation is Instax, mimicking instant film.

As for JPEG settings, one option might be Split-Tone, where a certain color cast could be selected for the shadows, and a different color cast could be selected for the highlights (for example, blue for the shadows, yellow for the highlights). This could be available for both color and B&W images. Another one might be Faded Blacks, where deep shadows are rendered lighter. A third potential option could be vignette. For those last two, it could simply be Off, Weak, or Strong. To demonstrate what Faded Black and Vignette might look like, I edited some pictures using the Photos App in my iPhone, simply setting the Black Point to -50 and Vignette to +10, which might be similar to Faded Black Strong and Vignette Weak, if such settings existed. You can see the before and after below:

Fujifilm X-T50 & Reala Ace Recipe – SOOC
Faded Blacks & Vignette
Fujifilm X-T4 & Kodak Portra 400 v2 Recipe – SOOC
Faded Blacks & Vignette
Fujifilm GFX100S II & Nostalgia Negative Recipe – SOOC
Faded Blacks & Vignette

More Faded Blacks & Vignette examples:

Now it’s your turn! What would you like the next Film Simulation to be? Should Pop Color be moved from Advanced Filters to the Film Simulation set? What new JPEG option would you prefer be introduced next? Do you like the idea of Faded Blacks and/or Vignette? Let me know in the comments!

Exposure Triangle, Part 2: Understanding Shutter Speed

Posted on by Ritchie Roesch

Fujifilm X100VI – f/11, ISO 500, 1/15 shutter – Kodak Gold 200

Part 1: Aperture, Part 3: ISO

Shutter speed simply controls the amount of time that light is exposed to the camera’s sensor. How motion is rendered—either frozen still or as a blur—will depend on the shutter speed. There are a few key things to know, but overall this is all fairly easy to understand.

Before we dive in, I want to quickly revisit aperture, because there’s something I forgot to mention in Part 1. How sunstars and lens flare will appear depends on a number of factors, including (among other things) the aperture you’ve selected. For more pronounced sunstars, use a small aperture, such as f/16. If you want to minimize sunstars and lens flare, use a large aperture, such as f/2. This is just one more factor to consider when choosing the most appropriate aperture for the scene in front of you.

Forest Sunstar – Sedona, AZ – Fujifilm X-T50 & Fujinon 23mm f/2 lens at f/14 – California Summer

Now, with that out of the way, let’s talk about shutter speeds. What is it? What does it do to your pictures? How do you control it to get the images that you want?

The quick and simple definition of shutter speed is that it is the amount of time the camera’s shutter curtain is open, allowing light to reach the sensor or film. A fast shutter speed allows very little light to expose the sensor, while a slow shutter speed allows a lot of light in. Shutter speed is one of three elements of the exposure triangle, along with aperture and ISO, and must be used in balance with the other two elements. On many Fujifilm cameras, the shutter speed is controlled by a knob on the top of the camera, marked with numbers like 125, 250, 500, etc., etc..

Fujifilm X-T30 & Rokinon 12mm f/2 + tripod – 0.4 second exposure – Kodak Gold 200

Some common shutter speeds are 1/15, 1/30, 1/60, 1/125, 1/250 and 1/500. There are, of course, many other shutter speeds, this is far from a comprehensive list. 1/15 is an example of a slow shutter speed, and 1/500 is an example of a quick shutter speed. You’ll note that these are fractions, as in fractions of a second. You’ll also note that they’re half or twice as long as the shutter speed on either side, which means that 1/60 lets in half as much light as 1/30, and 1/15 lets in twice as much light as as 1/30. Like aperture, there are intermediate stops in-between the full stops—most commonly one-third stops, but sometimes half-stops.

Shutter speed is about motion, either freezing or showing it. A slow shutter speed will show motion as a blur, while a fast shutter speed will freeze it. In the first picture below, which was captured with a 1/450 shutter speed, you’d never know that the car was zooming by, because the motion was frozen. The second picture below, which was captured with a 1/80 shutter speed, shows the motion through the car’s blur. The third picture below, which was captured with a 1/60 shutter speed, shows the motion through panning, where the car is sharp but the background blurred from the sweeping lens.

Fujifilm X-M1 & Fujinon 90mm – 1/450 shutter speed
Fujifilm X-M1 & Fujinon 90mm – 1/80 shutter speed
Fujifilm X-M1 & Fujinon 90mm – 1/60 shutter speed

In order to freeze motion, there are a few considerations: the focal length of the lens, the distance of the moving object, and it’s speed. The longer the focal length of the lens, the faster the minimum shutter speed needs to be; the shorter the focal length, the slower the minimum shutter speed needs to be. The closer and faster the moving object is, the faster the shutter speed needs to be; the further and slower the moving object is, the slower the shutter needs to be in order to freeze it.

If nothing is moving in the frame, the only motion is the photographer. A tripod will eliminate camera shake; if you don’t have a tripod, in-body-image-stabilization (IBIS) or optical-image-stabilization (OIS) can help to a degree. If your gear doesn’t have stabilization, you’ll want to use this rule of thumb: whatever the focal length of the lens is (or in the case of Fujifilm cameras, the full-frame-equivalent focal length), the minimum shutter speed should be a similar number. For example, if the lens is 18mm, which has a full-frame-equivalent focal length of 27mm, the slowest hand-held shutter speed is around 1/30. If the lens is 90mm, which has a full-frame-equivalent focal length of 135mm, the slowest hand-held shutter speed is around 1/125. With good techniques, you can often get a sharp picture with even slower shutter speeds, but that takes practice.

Fujifilm GFX100S II & Fujinon 80mm f/1.7 – f/9, ISO 320, 1/680 shutter – 1970’s Summer

In order to freeze motion, for portraits, events, kids, and pets, I recommend a minimum shutter speed of 1/125, but faster is better, such as 1/250. For sports and moving wildlife, the minimum shutter speed should be 1/250, but faster is better, such as 1/500. If the motion is blurry, increase the shutter speed. In order to show motion as a blur, the maximum shutter speed will likely need to be under 1/125, and probably under 1/30, just depending on the situation. If the blur is insufficient, decrease the shutter speed.

Another shutter speed consideration is in regards to flash photography. Some cameras, such as the X100-series, have a leaf shutter, which allows for high-speed flash sync; however, most cameras don’t have a leaf shutter, and have a maximum shutter speed for flash. On Fujifilm models, this is marked by an “X” next to the shutter speed—for example, on the X-T5, the maximum shutter speed for flash photography is 1/250, which is marked as 250X on the shutter knob. The fastest shutter speed you should use with flash photography is the one with the X next to it.

Fujifilm X-T5 & Fujinon 56mm f/1.2 + flash – f/4, ISO 500, 1/250 shutter – Nostalgic Americana

The two main things to remember about shutter speed are 1) that it is used to show motion, either frozen still or as a blur, and 2) it is one aspect of the exposure triangle, and must be balanced with both aperture and ISO. Increasing the shutter speed reduces the light, so you may need to use a larger aperture and/or a higher ISO to compensate; reducing the shutter speed increases the light, so you may need to use a smaller aperture and/or lower ISO. It’s a balancing act. Used thoughtfully, shutter speed can express movement in creative ways, so take a moment to consider how to best use it for the scene in front of you.

This post contains affiliate links, and if you make a purchase using my links I’ll be compensated a small amount for it.

Fujifilm GFX100S II:
Amazon, B&H, Wex
Fujinon GF 80mm f/1.7:
Amazon, B&H, Wex
Fujifilm X-T5 in black:
Amazon, B&H, Moment, Wex, Nuzira
Fujifilm X-T5 in silver:
Amazon, B&H, Moment, Wex, Nuzira
Fujinon 56mm f/1.2 R WR:
Amazon, B&H, Wex, Nuzira
Fujinon 90mm f/2:
Amazon, B&H, Moment, Wex
Fujifilm X100VI in black:
Amazon, B&H, Moment, Wex, Nuzira
Fujifilm X100VI in silver:
Amazon, B&H, Moment, Wex, Nuzira

Exposure Triangle, Part 1: Understanding Aperture

Posted on by Ritchie Roesch

Fujifilm X-T5 + Fujinon 56mm f/1.4 lens at f/4 + Nostalgic Americana

Aperture is a fundamental aspect of photography. The exposure (brightness) of an image is determined by the aperture, shutter speed, and ISO (referred to collectively as the “exposure triangle”). Yet many photographers don’t fully understand aperture, and when to choose which f-stop. It’s more than just a setting—it’s a creative tool that can dramatically impact the look and feel of your images. Understanding how aperture affects depth-of-field, exposure, and sharpness will help you take control of your photography and achieve your artistic vision.

With Fujifilm cameras, you’ll typically control the aperture via a ring on the lens, which are marked in f-stops. A large aperture has a low f-stop number, such as f/2, while a small aperture has a high f-stop number, like f/16. There are full-stops (e.g. f/1.4, f/2, f/2.8, f/4, f/5.6, f/8, f/11, f/16, f/22); in-between the full stops are intermediate stops, which are most commonly third-stops (e.g. (f/1.8, f/2.2, f/2.5, f/3.2, f/3.5, f/4.5, f/5, etc., etc.) and less commonly half-stops (e.g. f/1.7, f/2.4, f/3.3, f/4.8, etc.). A large aperture (low f-stop number, such as f/1.4 or f/2.8) allows more light into the camera and also creates a shallow depth-of-field (only a narrow slice in focus), making the subject stand out against a blurred background and/or foreground—common for portraits, where you want to separate the subject from distractions. A small aperture (high f-stop number, such as f/11 or f/16) allows less light into the camera and also creates a large depth-of-field (lots in focus), which is common for landscapes where you have several compositional elements at various distances from the camera.

Fujifilm GFX100S II + Fujinon 80mm f/1.7 lens at f/1.7 + Reggie’s Portra

The closer the subject is to the end of the lens, the more shallow the depth-of-field will be, and the further the subject is, the larger the depth-of-field will be, regardless of the aperture. In other words, the focus distance and aperture work together to create the depth-of-field, whether narrow or expansive. To achieve a narrow slice that is in focus (a small depth-of-field), one should position the subject close to the camera and use a large aperture (for example, f/2); to achieve a broad slice that is in focus (a large depth-of-field), one should position the subject further from the camera and use a small aperture (for example, f/11).

The aperture you choose determines how much light enters the camera (shutter speed determines for how long the sensor will be exposed to that light). A large aperture (such as f/1.7 or f/2) allows more light to enter, which is useful in low-light conditions, such as indoors or at night. A small aperture (such as f/13 or f/16) reduces the amount of light, which is useful in bright daylight situations. Even though you might wish for a shallow or large depth-of-field, the conditions might prevent you from using the most ideal aperture for what you want to achieve.

Fujifilm GFX100S II + Fujinon 80mm f/1.7 lens at f/20 + Fujicolor PRO 160C Warm

Adjusting the aperture affects other exposure settings. If you open up the aperture for more light, you may need a faster shutter speed and/or a lower ISO to compensate. Conversely, if you stop down the aperture, which allows less light, you might need to increase the ISO or use a slower shutter speed. This is a balancing act that should be thoughtfully considered—compromises are often necessary.

Aperture also influences sharpness. While stopping down (using a smaller aperture) generally increases the area of sharpness (depth-of-field), it might actually decrease sharpness. Every lens has a “sweet spot”—an aperture range where it delivers the best overall sharpness. For many lenses, this is between f/4 and f/8 (this is generally speaking, and varies from lens-to-lens, and even sensor-to-sensor). At large apertures (such as f/1.4), lenses can exhibit softness around the edges due to optical imperfections, and also decreased overall sharpness. At small apertures (such as f/16), diffraction can reduce overall image sharpness. Selecting the optimal aperture range for your lens will ensure the sharpest photographs.

Fujifilm GFX100S II + Fujinon 80mm f/1.7 lens at f/1.7 + Fujicolor PRO 160C Warm

F-stop is more than just a technical setting, it’s an artistic choice. Large apertures can create dreamy backgrounds and subject isolation, small apertures ensure everything is in focus, while the middle apertures produce sharply detailed pictures. Whether you’re shooting portraits, landscapes, street photography, still-life, macro, or any other genre, the aperture choice will significantly effect the outcome, giving you creative control over your photography. Experimenting with different apertures will deepen your understanding of how they impact your pictures—the more you practice, the more intuitive it will become. The next time that you’re out with your camera, take a moment to consider the f-stop, because it’s one of the most powerful tools at your disposal.

Part 2: Shutter Speed, Part 3: ISO

This post contains affiliate links, and if you make a purchase using my links I’ll be compensated a small amount for it.

Fujifilm GFX100S II:
Amazon, B&H, Wex
Fujinon GF 80mm f/1.7:
Amazon, B&H, Wex
Fujifilm X-T5 in black:
Amazon, B&H, Moment, Wex, Nuzira
Fujifilm X-T5 in silver:
Amazon, B&H, Moment, Wex, Nuzira
Fujinon 56mm f/1.2 R WR:
Amazon, B&H, Wex, Nuzira

Fujifilm Negative — Fujifilm X-T5 (X-Trans V) Film Simulation Recipe

Posted on by Ritchie Roesch

Small Yellow Boat – Clinton, CT – Fujifilm X-T5 – Fujifilm Negative Recipe

Over the last several months, my wife, Amanda, and I have been sharing our Fujifilm X-T5, which I purchased in November 2022 when it first came out. Her camera is an X-T4 that she’s used for years, but lately has been drawn more to the newer model. Amanda does portrait, event and theater photography, but she really loves videography. By far, the Film Simulation Recipe that she uses the most for still photography is Reggie’s Portra; Reala Ace and Pacific Blues are a distant second and third. We used this new Fujifilm Negative Recipe for some of our photos captured on the X-T5 as we traveled across the country over the last few months.

My inspiration for this Recipe was Fujicolor PRO 160NS color negative film, although it wasn’t necessarily closely modeled after it—I just looked at a number of frames captured with that emulsion when I was creating this, so there is a noticeable similarity. Fujicolor PRO 160NS was produced by Fujifilm between 2010 and 2021; however, before that it was named PRO 160S, and before that—in the 1990’s—it was called NPS 160, with small changes and improvements over the years. While this doesn’t exactly match those emulsions, it certainly has a Fujifilm color negative film vibe, and just feels analog-like.

Camera Conversation – Philadelphia, PA – Fujifilm X-T5 – Fujifilm Negative – by Amanda Roesch

This Fujifilm Negative Film Simulation Recipe is intended for sunny daylight photography. It works well in overcast conditions, too, and indoor natural light. It might not be the best choice for artificial light situations (can be a bit too yellow), and can be a bit too cool in the shade. This Recipe is compatible with all fifth generation X-Trans models, which (as of this writing) are the Fujifilm X-H2s, X-H2, X-T5, X-S20, X100VI, X-T50, and X-M5 cameras. It can be used on the latest GFX models, too, but will likely render slightly different (try it anyway).

Film Simulation: Reala Ace
Dynamic Range: DR400
Grain Effect: Weak, Small
Color Chrome Effect: Strong
Color Chrome FX Blue: Off 
White Balance: 5000K, 0 Red & -2 Blue
Highlight: -1
Shadow: -0.5
Color:+2
Sharpness: -1
High ISO NR: -4
Clarity: -2
ISO: Auto, up to ISO 6400
Exposure Compensation: +1/3 to +1 (typically)

Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs captured using this Fujifilm Negative Film Simulation Recipe on a Fujifilm X-T5:

Indoor Grass – Nashville, TN – Fujifilm X-T5
Modeling – Philadelphia, PA – Fujifilm X-T5 – by Amanda Roesch
Friendly Conversation – Philadelphia, PA – Fujifilm X-T5 – by Amanda Roesch
Hot Dog Stand – New York City, NY – Fujifilm X-T5 – by Amanda Roesch
Photowalk – Philadelphia, PA – Fujifilm X-T5 – by Amanda Roesch
Stories – Philadelphia, PA – Fujifilm X-T5 – by Amanda Roesch
Talking About Cameras – Philadelphia, PA – Fujifilm X-T5 – by Amanda Roesch
Reviewing Pictures – Philadelphia, PA – Fujifilm X-T5 – by Amanda Roesch
Setting a Recipe – New York City, NY – Fujifilm X-T5 – by Amanda Roesch
Crosses on Steeples – Denver, CO – Fujifilm X-T5
Oak Leaf – Clinton, CT – Fujifilm X-T5
Lake Morning – Clinton, CT – Fujifilm X-T5
First Catch – Clinton, CT – Fujifilm X-T5
Third Catch – Clinton, CT – Fujifilm X-T5
Fourth Catch – Clinton, CT – Fujifilm X-T5
Shore Fishing – Clinton, CT – Fujifilm X-T5
Dock Fishing – Clinton, CT – Fujifilm X-T5
Breakfast – Clinton, CT – Fujifilm X-T5
Camera on a Bookshelf – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Sunset over the Eucalyptus – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5

This post contains affiliate links, and if you make a purchase using my links I’ll be compensated a small amount for it.

Fujifilm X-T5 in black:
Amazon, B&H, Moment, Wex, Nuzira
Fujifilm X-T5 in silver:
Amazon, B&H, Moment, Wex, Nuzira

Find this Film Simulation Recipe and over 350 more on the Fuji X Weekly App! Consider becoming a Patron subscriber to unlock the best App experience and to support Fuji X Weekly.

Which Film Simulation Recipes, When? — Part 2: X-Trans IV (2024 Edition)

Posted on by Ritchie Roesch

Pacific Poppies – Montaña de Oro SP, CA – Fujifilm X-E4 – Pacific Blues Recipe

Part 1 (X-Trans V) – Part 3 (X-T3/X-T30)

I get asked all of the time when to use which Film Simulation Recipe. With over 350 in the Fuji X Weekly App to choose from, it can be difficult to know when each Recipe should be chosen, especially since many of them are specifically intended for sunny daylight conditions. With only seven Custom Presets on your Fujifilm camera (for most of you, anyway), which ones should you have programed? When should you select them?

The problem with trying to answer this question is that it’s a highly subjective endeavor. While I might like a certain Recipe for a particular situation, you might not. There’s not a right or wrong answer, just what works for you and what doesn’t—and I cannot say whether any particular Recipe will work for you or not. Only you can answer that for yourself, and you have to try a Recipe to know. With that said, I do attempt to give good advice. I’ve written many articles related to this topic, including the series Which Film Simulation Recipes, When? While that has likely been the most helpful, it’s nearly two-years-old now, and a lot of new Recipes have been published since. I think it’s time to update the series for 2024.

Two Caballeros – Culleoka, TX – Fujifilm X-E4 – Kodachrome 64 Recipe

The premise of the original series is that Jason Kummerfeldt of Grainydays, a YouTube channel about film photography, gave some advice on when to use which film emulsion in a video entitled Which Film Stock, When? Since film choice is such a personal thing, how do you say when to use which? It’s the same thing for Film Simulation Recipes. His solution was simply to demonstrate what he uses and state what he likes, and maybe you’ll like it, too. In my series, I copied that approach for Recipes—I told you my preferences, and invited you to try them out. We’re going to follow that same formula for this update with just a small twist, which I think makes a little more sense.

Below are seven Recipe suggestions for you to program into C1-C7 on your Fujifilm camera, with advice on when to use each. Since Recipes are (for the most part) generationally specific, each article will cover a different group of cameras. This is Part 2, and covers X-Trans IV models (except the X-T3 and X-T30, which will be discussed in Part 3): Fujifilm X-Pro3, X100V, X-T4, X-S10, X-E4, and X-T30 II.

C1 — Kodak Portra 400 v2 — Sunny Daylight #1

Evening Charge – Santa Rosa, NM – Fujifilm X-E4 – Kodak Portra 400 v2

Kodak Portra 400 v2 does well anytime during daylight hours, but especially for “golden hour” near sunrise and sunset. As the name suggests it is a good option for portrait photography, but is excellent for many genres. This really could be your primary use-all-of-the-time Recipe, and that’s why I suggest placing it in C1. Personally, I use this one frequently.

Some alternatives to consider:
Kodak Portra 160
Kodak Portra 400
Classic Kodak
Fujicolor Superia 100
Superia Premium 400

C2 — Bright Kodak — Sunny Daylight #2

Golden Desert Hill – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4 – Bright Kodak

I like to reserve C2 for bright midday photography. The old rule of thumb was once the sun was high in the sky, it’s time to put the camera away. While Bright Kodak can be used anytime the sun is out, it is one of my favorite options for middle-of-the-day situations, and proves the old adage wrong.

Some alternatives to consider:
Vibrant Arizona
Bright Summer
Kodak Portra 400 Warm
Kodak Portra 800 v3
Superia Summer

C3 — Kodachrome 64 — Sunny Daylight #3

Denny’s Days – Beaver, UT – Fujifilm X-E4 – Kodachrome 64

This is a good spot to have an alternative aesthetic compared to C1 and C2—as I don’t think you’d want to have all three up to this point to be essentially similar. Although each of the first three have a Kodak-like look, Kodachrome 64 produces a more contrasty slide film aesthetic. With the ones I’ve suggested, you’ve got a good set for all sorts of daylight situations no matter your subject.

Some alternatives to consider:
McCurry Kodachrome
Kodachrome 25
Kodachrome II
Kodak Vision3 250D
Kodak Ektar 100

C4 — Pacific Blues — Overcast

Ice Flower & Chain Link – Morro Bay, CA – Fujifilm X-E4 – Pacific Blues

Pacific Blues is excellent for sunny daylight photography—it was specifically designed for a summer day at the beach—but I have fallen in love with it for overcast and foggy days. For dreary conditions, this Recipe is hard to beat.

Some alternatives to consider:
PRO Negative 160C
Kodak High Definition Plus 200
Superia Xtra 400
Kodak Max 800
Color Negative 400

C5 — Reggie’s Portra — Versatility

Mountain Sunset – Flagstaff, AZ – Fujifilm X100V – Reggie’s Portra

I like to have at least one Recipe programmed into my camera that’s highly versatile and can be used no matter the situation. There are several excellent options, but a personal favorite that I use frequently is Reggie’s Portra. Almost no matter the light, this one does very well.

Some alternatives to consider:
Kodak Ultramax 400
Fujicolor NPS 160 Pulled
Fujicolor Super HG v2
Timeless Negative
Kodachrome II v2

C6 — Serr’s 500T — Nighttime

11th Street – Astoria, OR – Fujifilm X100V – Serr’s 500T

Most Recipes are intended for sunny daylight; while some can still do well at night, and the versatile options above are definitely good for after-dark, there are some Recipes that are specifically intended for night photography. Of those, Serr’s 500T is one of my absolute favorites.

Some alternatives to consider:
CineStill 800T
Pushed CineStill 800T
Ektachrome 320T
Pure Negative
Kodak Ektachrome E100VS v1

C7 — Kodak Tri-X 400 — B&W

Old Window Blinds – San Luis Obispo, CA – Fujifilm X100V – Kodak Tri-X 400

I love black-and-white photography. As far as Recipes go, the monochrome options tend to be less popular than color; however, my favorite Recipe—and the one that I would choose if I could only ever photograph with one—is Kodak Tri-X 400.

Some alternatives to consider:
Ilford HP5 Plus 400
Monochrome Negative
Kodak T-Max 400
Kodak T-Max P3200
Kentmere Pan 400

Find these Film Simulation Recipes in the Fuji X Weekly App! Consider becoming a Patron subscriber to unlock the best App experience and to support Fuji X Weekly.

Stay tuned for Part 3!

Pushed Analog — Fujifilm X-T50 (X-Trans V) Film Simulation Recipe

Posted on by Ritchie Roesch

Rainbow over Hoboken – Hoboken, NJ – Fujifilm X-T50 – Pushed Analog Recipe

I created this new Film Simulation Recipe while on my four-city photowalk tour. I didn’t have any specific film in mind, but wanted something contrasty, colorful, and warm—perhaps vaguely reminiscent of a push-processed Kodak emulsion without mimicking anything specific. In fact, I didn’t even reference any photographs when I created this (which is unusual for me), just used my experience making Recipes to achieve the aesthetic that I was after. Since it is only similar to pushed film in a very generic way, I named this Recipe very simply Pushed Analog.

Pushing film is where you purposefully underexpose, and then increase the time in the developer to compensate. This Recipe might be more similar to ISO 100 film pushed one stop or maybe two at most (but probably not two stops). Pushing film increases the contrast and grain, and makes the images more punchy and gritty. The more you push, the stronger the effect. The warmth in this Recipe is similar to using a warming filter, such as an 81A or something similar, with daylight balanced film, which used to be common in the film era.

Ciao & Church – Boston, MA – Fujifilm X-T50 – Pushed Analog Recipe

This Pushed Analog Film Simulation Recipe isn’t for every subject or situation, and not everyone is going to like it. Some of you will love it, I’m certain; however, this is not an everyday option that everyone will appreciate. I found that it works best in sunny daylight, and can also be a good option for dusk or dawn. It’s so-so for overcast days, and not good for artificial light. You can get dramatic results, but you might not find every image to be striking. This Recipe is compatible with all fifth-generation X-series cameras, which (as of this writing) are the X-H2s, X-H2, X-T5, X-S20, X100VI, and X-T50.

Film Simulation: Reala Ace
Dynamic Range: DR200
Grain Effect: Strong, Small
Color Chrome Effect: Strong
Color Chrome FX Blue: Strong
White Balance: Fluorescent 1, -3 Red & -2 Blue
Highlight: +1.5
Shadow: +2
Color: +4
Sharpness: -1
High ISO NR: -4
Clarity: -3
ISO: Auto, up to ISO 6400
Exposure Compensation: +1/3 to +2/3 (typically)

Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs captured using this Pushed Analog Film Simulation Recipe on a Fujifilm X-T50:

Upper Manhatten – Hoboken, NJ – Fujifilm X-T50
Richie’s Lemon Ice – Boston, MA – Fujifilm X-T50
Yellow Umbrellas – Hoboken, NJ – Fujifilm X-T50
P is for Parking – Hoboken, NJ – Fujifilm X-T50
Chimney between the Trees – Salem, MA – Fujifilm X-T50
Vines on the Building – Salem, MA – Fujifilm X-T50
Maria Pepe – Hoboken, NJ – Fujifilm X-T50
Two Motorcycles – Boston, MA – Fujifilm X-T50
Lost Shoes – Salem, MA – Fujifilm X-T50
Apartment Reflections – Hoboken, NJ – Fujifilm X-T50
Lego Bricks – Boston, MA – Fujifilm X-T50
Troupe – Braintree, MA – Fujifilm X-T50
Back Door – Braintree, MA – Fujifilm X-T50
Green Cans – Nashville, TN – Fujifilm X-T50
Church Parking – Salem, MA – Fujifilm X-T50
St Stephen’s – Boston, MA – Fujifilm X-T50
Fire – Boston, MA – Fujifilm X-T50
W.B. Mason – New York City, NY – Fujifilm X-T50
PHX – Boston, MA – Fujifilm X-T50
Bova’s Bakery – Boston, MA – Fujifilm X-T50
Paul Revere’s House – Boston, MA – Fujifilm X-T50
John P. Felt House – Salem, MA – Fujifilm X-T50
St. Anthony’s Feast Parade – Boston, MA – Fujifilm X-T50
New York from New Jersey – Hoboken, NJ – Fujifilm X-T50

This post contains affiliate links, and if you make a purchase using my links I’ll be compensated a small amount for it.

Fujifilm X-T50 in black:
Amazon, B&H, Moment, Wex, Nuzira
Fujifilm X-T50 in silver:
Amazon, B&H, Moment, Wex, Nuzira
Fujifilm X-T50 in charcoal:
Amazon, B&H, Moment, Wex

Find this Film Simulation Recipe and over 350 more on the Fuji X Weekly App! Consider becoming a Patron subscriber to unlock the best App experience and to support Fuji X Weekly.

PRO Negative 160C Film Simulation Recipe for Fujifilm X-Trans IV & X-Trans V

Posted on by Ritchie Roesch

Closed – Litchfield Park, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – PRO Negative 160C

After discovering that the new Reala Ace film simulation is a version of PRO Neg., and is similar to both PRO Neg. Hi and PRO Neg. Std, I decided that I wanted to replicate as closely as possible my first Reala Ace-based Film Simulation Recipe—PRO Negative 160C—for those camera that don’t have the new film simulation. Right now Reala Ace is only available on the Fujifilm X100VI (and GFX100 II), but Fujifilm has stated that they will be bringing it to the other fifth-generation models (X-H2s, X-H2, X-T5, and X-S20) sometimes this summer.

For whatever reason, PRO Neg. Std seems to work easier for replicating the Reala Ace film sim than PRO Neg. Hi, but they are both in the general neighborhood. Obviously Fujifilm didn’t make Reala Ace identical to either, and it is its own unique profile. With that said, it’s possible to get fairly close to it using either PRO Neg. Hi or especially PRO Neg. Std; however, the PRO Negative 160 Film Simulation Recipe has Color set to +4, which meant that only PRO Neg. Hi could be used, as Std doesn’t have enough vibrancy.

Blossom Vine – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4 – PRO Negative 160C

This PRO Negative 160C Film Simulation Recipe, which uses PRO Neg. Hi, is not a perfect match to the original version that uses Reala Ace, but is probably 90-95% similar. I like the Reala Ace one just a little more, but if your camera doesn’t have that as an option, this is a good alternative. This new version is compatible with (as of this writing) the Fujifilm X-T4, X-S10, X-E4, X-T30 II, X-H2s, X-H2, X-T5, X-S20, and X100VI. For the X100VI, I recommend using the Reala Ace version and not this one, but you can choose whichever you personally prefer.

Film Simulation: PRO Neg. Hi
Dynamic Range: DR400
Grain Effect: Weak, Small
Color Chrome Effect: Strong
Color Chrome FX Blue: Weak
White Balance: Auto, +1 Red & -3 Blue
Highlight: +0.5
Shadow: -1.5
Color: +4
Sharpness: -1
High ISO NR: -4
Clarity: -2
ISO: Auto, up to ISO 6400
Exposure Compensation: 0 to +2/3 (typically)

Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs captured using this PRO Negative 160C Film Simulation Recipe on my Fujifilm X-E4 & Fujifilm X-T5:

Mountain Sunset from a Car Window – Patagonia, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Patagonia Lake – Patagonia, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Lake Boat – Patagonia, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Pigeon in a Tree – Bisbee, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Josh at the Park – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Rolling – Tempe, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Abandoned Trailer Home – Arlington, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Abandoned Home in the Desert – Arlington, TX – Fujifilm X-T5
I Spy With My Little Eye… a Cat – Palo Verde, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
No Parking, One Way – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
End of the Road – Litchfield Park, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Hall’s – Arlington, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Four Palm Trees – Palo Verde, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Spiky Arms – Saguaro National Park, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Travel Trailer – Bisbee, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Brick Steps – Bisbee, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Blue Basket – Casa Grande, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Chevy Van – Casa Grande, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5

Comparison:

The original PRO Negative 160C Recipe using Reala Ace
This new PRO Negative 160C Recipe using PRO Neg. Hi

This post contains affiliate links, and if you make a purchase using my links I’ll be compensated a small amount for it.

Fujifilm X-T5 in black: Amazon, B&H, Moment, Wex, Nuzira
Fujifilm X-T5 in silver:  Amazon, B&H, Moment, Wex, Nuzira

Find this Film Simulation Recipe and over 300 more on the Fuji X Weekly App! Consider becoming a Patron subscriber to unlock the best App experience and to support Fuji X Weekly.

How to Program Film Simulation Recipes to your Fujifilm Camera

Posted on by Ritchie Roesch

My Film Simulation Recipes are popular, but programming them into your Fujifilm camera can be confusing for those trying to use them for the first time. A little over three years ago I published an article explaining how, but I think, with the new X100VI coming out, it would be worthwhile to try again, and perhaps offer a little more clarity. If you are new to Film Simulation Recipes, then this article is for you!

To start with, there are some variances between models. It’s important to read your camera’s manual, which thankfully Fujifilm makes easy: click here to find your owner’s manual online. For most cameras, within the manual, navigate to the Shooting Menus set, select Image Quality Setting (Still Photography), and finally Edit/Save Custom Setting. For example, click here to view this for the X-T5. Also, I’ve included a screenshot of this section from the X100V manual below. Everything you need to know for your specific camera is found in your manual, so that’s why it’s important to review it first.

There’s an easy shortcut for navigating to the Edit/Save Custom Settings Menu. Simply press the Q-Button, which brings up the Quick Menu, then press-and-hold the Q-Button, which activates the Edit/Save Custom Settings Menu. This shortcut works on most Fujifilm cameras. A shortcut to edit the Quick Menu is to press-and-hold the Q-Button from outside of the Quick Menu.

A Film Simulation Recipe is simply a set of JPEG parameters that produce a certain look straight-out-of-camera, mostly inspired by film stocks. Each Recipe contains a specific set of settings that must be programmed into your camera, either in the Edit/Save Custom Settings Menu or the IQ Menu. The newer the camera, the more options and parameters there are to program.

Duck Pond – Tempe, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – 1970’s Summer Recipe

On the latest cameras, a Film Simulation Recipe contains: Film Simulation, Dynamic Range, Grain Effect, Color Chrome Effect, Color Chrome FX Blue, White Balance and WB Shift, Highlight, Shadow, Color, Sharpness, Noise Reduction, Clarity, ISO, and Exposure Compensation. All of those settings together make up a Recipe. The older the camera, the fewer parameters there are, and might only include: Film Simulation, Dynamic Range, White Balance and WB Shift, Highlight, Shadow, Color, Sharpness, Noise Reduction, ISO, and Exposure Compensation. On the newer models, Noise Reduction was renamed High ISO NR (it is the same thing) and Highlight and Shadow were combined into Tone Curve.

One parameter that cannot be saved is “Typical Exposure Compensation.” On most Fujifilm cameras, there is an Exposure Compensation knob on the top of the camera, which is where this is adjusted (unless you are in Manual Mode, in which case you’ll have to do it manually). An important note is that the suggested Exposure Compensation in each Recipe is only meant to be a starting point, and not a rule; each exposure should be judged individually. Also, most often I use Auto-ISO, but it is certainly alright to manually set the ISO. You might prefer different ISO parameters than what I like, and that is perfectly fine. It’s always ok to “season to taste” any Recipe to make it work better for you.

Pacific Poppies – Montaña de Oro SP, CA – Fujifilm X-E4 – Pacific Blues Recipe

Most Fujifilm cameras have seven Custom Settings (sometimes called Custom Presets), that are often referred to as C1-C7. The X-S10 and X-S20 have only four (C1-C4), and I believe there are some GFX cameras with six (C1-C6). Edit/Save Custom Settings is where you’ll program Film Simulation Recipes into your camera; however, some older Fujifilm models don’t have Custom Settings. In that case, you’ll program the desired Recipe parameters into the IQ Menu subset. Also, the newest Fujifilm models will allow you to program a Recipe into the IQ Menu subset in addition to the Custom Settings presets (basically, a bonus Recipe).

An important side note is that the Fujifilm X-T3 and X-T30 (however, not the X-T30 II), along with all of the cameras that came before it—X-Trans I, X-Trans II, X-Trans III, and older GFX—cannot save a White Balance Shift within the Custom Settings. Only the newer cameras can: X-Trans IV (except for the X-T3/X-T30), X-Trans V, and newer GFX. For those models that cannot save a WB Shift within the Custom Settings, you’ll have to program it from within the White Balance Menu found within the IQ Menu set. Also, those cameras will only remember one WB Shift per WB type, so choosing Recipes that either share the same WB Shift or use different WB types will make the user experience more enjoyable.

Autumn in a Mountain Meadow – Flagstaff, AZ – Fujifilm X100V – Fujicolor Superia 100 Recipe

I don’t have any step-by-step instructions to program a Film Simulation Recipe into your specific camera, because there are variances between some models, and each step can be slightly different. It’s not difficult to program a Film Simulation Recipe, and once you’ve done it a couple of times it becomes quite easy. It’s just getting through the first time or two that can be confusing. Should you find yourself stuck, there are a few videos on YouTube that walk you through the process. If you are a visual learner, you might find these especially helpful to you: How to Save Fujifilm Simulation Recipes by Scott Dawson, Fujifilm Film Simulation Recipes — How to Find & Save Them by Craig Pitts, and What are Fuji Film Simulation Recipes — Getting Started by TB-Photography. Even if you have a different model than what’s in those videos, the process for most cameras is similar enough that you should be able find your way through.

For those with the newest cameras, Custom Settings saves more than just your Recipes, but literally most camera settings, including focus preferences and even sound settings. My best recommendation is to program C1 with everything just as you want it to be, then copy that preset to the other C2-C7 (or C2-C4), so that they’re all exactly the same. Then, you just have to update them with the Film Simulation Recipe parameters for the specific Recipes that you wish to program. I also recommend disabling Auto Update Custom Setting. If your camera doesn’t have those options, then disregard this paragraph.

Arizona Barn – Sedona, Arizona – Fujifilm X-T5 – Vibrant Arizona Recipe

A common question is what about the settings that aren’t in the Film Simulation Recipe? What should those be set to? There are some options that are user-preference, so I don’t provide those as Recipe parameters. Choose whatever works for you. Let me touch on a few of them real quick, though.

I most often choose Image Size Large 3:2. I used to shoot with Image Quality Fine, but now choose Fine+RAW, as the RAW files can be reprocessed in-camera, which makes creating new Film Simulation Recipes much easier. My RAW files are Uncompressed. I choose JPEG over HEIF because Clarity isn’t available with HEIF (by the way, Clarity causes a short storing pause when set to anything other than 0). I don’t like Smooth Skin Effect personally, so I set it to Off. Lens Modulation Optimizer is often set to On, but it can be interesting when set to Off. Color Space is sRGB, as I had a bad experience once many years ago with AdobeRGB and have avoided it ever since. I usually use Multi Mode for metering (Photometry), but sometimes I use Spot.

Sentinel & Merced – Yosemite NP, CA – Fujifilm X100V – Vintage Color Recipe

There are over 300 Film Simulation Recipes in the Fuji X Weekly App, which is free (consider becoming an App Patron to unlock the best experience and to support this website), and available for both Android and Apple. Otherwise, find them here:

EXR Recipes
Bayer Recipes
GFX Recipes
X-Trans I Recipes
X-Trans II Recipes
X-Trans III Recipes
X-Trans IV Recipes
X-Trans V Recipes

If you are not sure which Film Simulation Recipes to try first, no problem! I have several articles that might help with this, including:
Which Film Simulation Recipe, When?
The Essential 7 Film Simulation Recipes to Program Into Your Fujifilm Camera First
Try These 3 Film Simulation Recipes, No Matter Your Fujifilm Camera
Helping You Decide Which Film Simulation Recipes to Choose

See also: Answers to the 10 Most Common Fujifilm How-To Questions

Kodak Portra 800 v3 — Fujifilm X-T5 (X-Trans V) & X-E4 (X-Trans IV) Film Simulation Recipe

Posted on by Ritchie Roesch

South Rim Sunrise – Grand Canyon NP, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – Kodak Portra 800 v3

My wife recently challenged me to create a Film Simulation Recipe that mimics the aesthetic of Kodak Portra 800 film that Peter McKinnon has been sharing on Instagram and YouTube. I’m really drawn to his analog photography—I think they’re some of his best photographs. While there were plenty of examples of his Portra 800 to examine, I found it to be a difficult endeavor to replicate on my Fujifilm cameras.

As I’ve said many times, one film can produce many different looks based on a whole host of factors: how shot (film format, lens, exposure, filters, light, etc.), how developed (push/pull, brand of chemicals, freshness of chemicals, timing, temperature and pH of the water, etc.), how printed (paper, chemicals, timing, filters, etc.) and/or how scanned (brand of scanner, correction profiles, post-editing, etc.). Even within one photographer’s collection of one specific emulsion, there can be some noticeable variances. In the specific case of Peter McKinnon and his Kodak Portra 800, there is indeed significant divergences in the exact look of different pictures.

Mineral Stains on a Dry Fountain – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4 – Kodak Portra 800 v3

Before I get any deeper into this, let me give a brief history of Kodak Portra 800 and my Film Simulation Recipes that mimic this film. Kodak introduced Portra 800 in 1998 at the same time as Portra 160 and Portra 400. Portra 160 and Portra 400 both originally came in a “VC” (vivid color) and “NC” (neutral color) versions, which were later merged into in-between emulsions that still exists today; however, Portra 800 only ever came in one variety. I don’t know if it is true, but I read that Portra 800 was based on the older Vericolor/Vision2 technology, while Portra 160 and Portra 400 were based on T-Grain/Vision3 advancements. In any event, all of these films have been tweaked and updated by Kodak several times over the years. While it has become increasingly expensive, all three ISO versions of Portra are still being manufactured today by Kodak. In fact, the current version of Lomography 800 is supposedly repacked Portra 800 (although it might be a run that didn’t pass quality control).

My original Kodak Portra 800 Film Simulation Recipe was a joint venture between myself and Thomas Schwab based on “memory color” (as Fujifilm likes to put it) of the film. The next version, Kodak Portra 800 v2, was created entirely by Thomas Schwab after he shot a roll of the film and his Fujifilm X-Pro3 camera side-by-side. This new third version was created by me after carefully examining Peter McKinnon’s pictures of Kodak Portra 800 film.

Pink Girl on a Green Slide – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – Kodak Portra 800 v3

I divided Peter’s Portra 800 pictures into seven groups. Each group contained photos that seemed similar in overall aesthetics to each other. The commonality within each group tended to be (for the most part) the lighting condition that the film was shot in (although it was not universally so). I picked one group, and tried to replicate the look of it as closely as possible using the options available on my Fujifilm X-T5 (or should I say my Kodak Retina camera?), choosing similar light and colors for my pictures. Once I was satisfied that I was close, I used those settings to create images similar to the photographs in the other groups; however, this is where it fell apart. One Recipe was not able to replicate multiple aesthetics from the same film, which is not surprising. I made a bunch of small modifications until I had one Film Simulation Recipe that was a fairly faithful facsimile to multiple groups of Peter’s Portra 800 pictures. I say “fairly faithful” because compromises had to be made in order to match multiple groups. These settings are in the ballpark of four of the seven groups (and most similar to just two), and not especially close to the other three, unfortunately. This is not a 100% faithful recreation of any of his picture aesthetics, but in being less faithful to one specific look, I was better able to replicate the film examples overall.

This new Kodak Portra 800 v3 Film Simulation Recipe is intended for fifth-generation Fujifilm X-Trans cameras, which (as of this writing) are the X-H2s, X-H2, X-T5, X-S20 (yes, the X-S20), and the upcoming X100VI. To make this Recipe compatible with some X-Trans IV models—specifically, the X-T4, X-S10, X-E4, and X-T30 II—I simply set Color Chrome FX Blue to Weak instead of Off, since X-Trans V cameras render blue more deeply on some film simulations. For those with the X-Pro3 or X100V, consider setting Shadow to 0 instead of 0.5. I do think that the original Kodak Portra 800 Recipe, as well as Kodak Portra 400 v2, are not very far off from Peter’s pictures, and could be good alternatives.

Minolta – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – Kodak Portra 800 v3

The Kodak Portra 800 v3 Film Simulation Recipe is great for both golden-hour and midday light. While it is intended for sunny daylight conditions, it does pretty well in shade, too. It’s alright for overcast days, depending on the specific cloud cover conditions. It’s great for natural-light indoors, and surprisingly decent for nighttime photography, but I’d avoid it for artificial light scenarios with warm bulbs. This Recipe is fairly versatile, despite it’s warm Kodak-like colors. In the right light, it can look pretty darn close to some of the Kodak Portra 800 scans that Peter McKinnon has been sharing on his social media channels. Interestingly, there’s also similarities to some of the Kodak Portra 400 images in Kyle McDougall’s An American Mile series. I have a feeling that this will quickly become a favorite option for many of you—personally, I really love this one!

Film Simulation: Classic Chrome
Dynamic Range: DR400
Grain Effect: Strong, Large
Color Chrome Effect: Strong
Color Chrome FX Blue: Off (X-Trans V); Weak (X-Trans IV)
White Balance: 6600K, -1 Red & -3 Blue
Highlight: -2
Shadow: -0.5
Color: +3
Sharpness: -2
High ISO NR: -4
Clarity: -3
ISO: Auto, up to ISO 6400
Exposure Compensation: +1/3 to +1 1/3 (typically)

Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs captured using this Kodak Portra 800 v3 Film Simulation Recipe on my Fujifilm X-E4:

Morning Lightbulbs – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Read Leaves on a Block Wall – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Rounded Light on an Circular Table – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Orange Tables and Leaf – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Main Street Market – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Sunny Suburbia – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Ready for an Adventure – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Rainy Day Rose Blossom – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4

Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs captured using this Kodak Portra 800 v3 Film Simulation Recipe on my Fujifilm X-T5:

Sunrise Beyond Grandeur Point – Grand Canyon NP, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Dead Tree at the Rim’s Edge – Grand Canyon NP, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Golden Sunset inside the Grand Canyon – Grand Canyon NP, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Morning at the Rim – Grand Canyon NP, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Maricopa Point at Midday – Grand Canyon NP, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Canyon Ridge in Golden Light – Grand Canyon NP, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Sunrise over icy South Rim Trail – Grand Canyon NP, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Bright Angel Trail from Above – Grand Canyon NP, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Too Close to the Icy Ledge – Grand Canyon NP, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Lookout Studio – Grand Canyon NP, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Grand Canyon Railway 237 – Grand Canyon NP, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Williams Flyer – Grand Canyon NP, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
American Painted Horse – Litchfield Park, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Swift Trailer – Litchfield Park, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Blue Barrel, Red Bricks – Litchfield Park, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Raindrop on a Lightbulb – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Raindrops of Fall Leaves – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Hanging Lightbulbs – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Fingers as Carrots – Litchfield Park, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Sitting Siblings – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Minolta & Film Book – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Camera, Books – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Busy Parking Lot – Goodyear, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Window Paperclip – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Window Light – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Hanging Plastic Golfballs – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Blossoming Trumpet Flower – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Hazy Tree Leaves – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Desert Spring – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Hill behind Yellow – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Go Right – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5

Comparison:

Kodak Portra 800 Film Simulation Recipe
Kodak Portra 800 v2 Film Simulation Recipe
This new Kodak Portra 800 v3 Film Simulation Recipe
Kodak Portra 400 v2 Film Simulation Recipe

This post contains affiliate links, and if you make a purchase using my links I’ll be compensated a small amount for it.

Fujifilm X-T5 in black:  Amazon  B&H  Moment
Fujifilm X-T5 in silver:  Amazon  B&H  Moment

Find this Film Simulation Recipe and over 300 more on the Fuji X Weekly App! Consider becoming a Patron subscriber to unlock the best App experience and to support Fuji X Weekly.

Kodak Vision3 250D v2 — Fujifilm X-T5 (X-Trans V) Film Simulation Recipe

Posted on by Ritchie Roesch

Layers of Urban Construction – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – Kodak Vision3 250D v2

Recently, I published my adaptation of the Kodak Vision3 250D Film Simulation Recipe, which is for X-T3 and X-T30 cameras, for use on the “newer” X-Trans IV models, which are the X-Pro3, X100V, X-T4, X-S10, X-E4, and X-T30 II. This is one of my personal favorite Recipes—if you have a compatible camera, you should definitely give it a try! Unfortunately, for 5th-generation models—currently, the X-H2s, X-H2, X-T5, and X-S20 (yes, the X-S20!)—it will look slightly differently (but try it anyway), because blue renders more deeply on some film simulations.

As I was contemplating how I might approach the use of this Recipe on my X-T5, a Fuji X Weekly reader suggested that I should modify it by using the Nostalgic Neg. film simulation instead of Eterna. Because there are some similarities between those two film sims, there is potential for crossover. Sure enough, with the right modifications, I was able to recreate the look and feel of the Kodak Vision3 250D Recipe using Nostalgic Neg.; however, it’s not an identical rendering, especially the shadows, which are a little warmer. There are other small differences, too. As you know, one film can have many different looks depending on how it was shot, developed, and scanned or printed, so you could consider this v2 version of Kodak Vision3 250D to be a divergent (yet still similar) aesthetic that replicates a different handling of the film.

Pots & Arches – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – Kodak Vision3 250D v2

If you have a camera with the Nostalgic Neg. film simulation, I invite you to try this new Kodak Vision3 250D v2 Film Simulation Recipe! You should also try the version that uses Eterna, too, and see which one you like better. While the “v1” Recipe has been my favorite for years, I think I like this new v2 version just a little more. It definitely produces an analog-like look that is easy to appreciate.

Film Simulation: Nostalgic Neg.
Dynamic Range: DR200
Grain Effect: Strong, Small
Color Chrome Effect: Strong
Color Chrome FX Blue: Off
White Balance: Fluorescent 1, -5 Red & 0 Blue
Highlight: +4
Shadow: +3
Color: -1
Sharpness: -2
High ISO NR: -4
Clarity: -2
ISO: Auto, up to ISO 6400
Exposure Compensation: 0 to +2/3 (typically)

Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs captured using this Kodak Vision3 250D v2 Film Simulation Recipe on my Fujifilm X-T5:

Public Telephone – Scottsdale, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Spinning Carousel – Scottsdale, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Snack Stop – Scottsdale, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Nighttime at Circle K – Surprise, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Joyful – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Urban Bougainvillea – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Little Plant in a Courtyard – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Sitting & Waiting – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Outdoor Dining – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Vines & Concrete – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Reflected Light on a Tall Building – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
In Step – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
High Rise Condo – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Constructing a Tall Building – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Jon – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – Photo by Amanda Roesch
95 LED Shoes – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Parking Garage – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Urban Vine – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Level 2 – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
No Left Turn – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Holiday Guitarist – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Cranes & Palms – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Layton – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Electric Construction – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Apartment Patio – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Autumn Rooftop – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Gazebo Roof – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Rainbows & Bougainvillea – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Bougainvillea Veiling Palm – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Pink Blossoming Flowers – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5

This post contains affiliate links, and if you make a purchase using my links I’ll be compensated a small amount for it.

Fujifilm X-T5 in black:  Amazon  B&H  Moment
Fujifilm X-T5 in silver:  Amazon  B&H  Moment

Find this Film Simulation Recipe and over 300 more on the Fuji X Weekly App! Consider becoming a Patron subscriber to unlock the best App experience and to support Fuji X Weekly.

Xpro — Fujifilm X-Trans III + X-T3 & X-T30 Film Simulation Recipe

Posted on by Ritchie Roesch

Suburban Abstract – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-H1 – “Xpro”

This Xpro Film Simulation Recipe came about after some experiments with white balance and shifts. It went through several iterations before I settled on these settings. The results remind me of cross-processed Fujichrome Sensia or perhaps Elite Chrome. Cross processing film (also called Xpro) is developing it in chemistry that it wasn’t intended to be developed in, most commonly color slide film (E6) in color negative film (C41) chemistry. Different films can give different results when cross processed. I have several other cross-process inspired Film Simulation Recipes (here, here, here, and here); this one is simply a little different aesthetic.

This was a Patron Early-Access Film Simulation Recipe in the Fuji X Weekly App, available to App Patrons for over a year. It’s been replaced by a different Early-Access Recipe, so now it’s available to everyone. It’s not one that you’ll want to use all of the time, but occasionally for a different look it is great. It’s more of a “fun” Recipe. If you are a Fuji X Weekly App Patron, be sure to look for the new Early-Access Recipe!

Storm – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-H1 – “Xpro”

This Xpro Film Simulation Recipe is fully compatible with X-Trans III cameras, which are the X-Pro2, X100F, X-E3, X-T2, X-T20, and X-H1, plus the X-T3 and X-T30. For newer cameras, you’ll have to decide on a Grain size (Small or Large), set Color Chrome FX Blue to Off, and Clarity to 0. This Recipe can also be used on the “older” GFX models (50R and 50S), but will render slightly differently.

Classic Chrome
Dynamic Range: DR400
Highlight: -1
Shadow: +3
Color: +4
Color Chrome Effect: N/A (X-Trans III) or Off (X-T3/X-T30)
Sharpness: -1
Noise Reduction: -4
Grain: Weak
White Balance: 3400K, -6 Red & -9 Blue
ISO: Auto, up to ISO 6400
Exposure Compensation: +2/3 to +1 1/3 (typically)

Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs captured using this Xpro Film Simulation Recipe on my Fujifilm X-H1 and X-T30:

Associated Fence – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T30
Green – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T30
Structured Abstract – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T30
Roof & Fence Lines – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T30
Tile Roof – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T30
Cactus Hotels – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-H1
Barrel Cactus – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-H1
Secret Garden Gate – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-H1
Don’t, This Way – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-H1
Light Bulb – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-H1
Closed Window – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-H1
Pigeon Pipe – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-H1
Pergola in the Rain – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-H1
Arizona Architecture – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-H1
Hanging Blossoms – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-H1
Dark Flowers – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-H1
Light Pink with Green – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-H1

Find this Film Simulation Recipe and over 300 more on the Fuji X Weekly App! Consider becoming a Patron subscriber to unlock the best App experience and to support Fuji X Weekly.

Kodak Gold 200 — Fujifilm X-T5 (X-Trans V) Film Simulation Recipe

Posted on by Ritchie Roesch

Field of Gold – Flagstaff, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – Kodak Gold 200 Recipe

A favorite Film Simulation for the Fujifilm X-T3 and X-T30, plus X-Trans III cameras, is Kodak Gold 200. I published this Recipe about two-and-a-half years ago, and have had many requests to adapt it for newer models, something that I just recently got around to doing. I took the opportunity to see if I could improve it, utilizing the options that have come out since. While it is still quite similar to the original, I really like how this Kodak Gold 200 Film Simulation Recipe came out.

Kodak introduced Gold color negative film in 1986, and it is still around today. It was originally called Kodacolor VR-G, then Kodacolor Gold, and finally Gold. It replaced Kodacolor VR, which actually (and interestingly) still exists today as ColorPlus. While the film has been improved a few times over the years, it still looks pretty much the same today as it did in the 1980’s. The film is prone to color shifts, and results can vary significantly depending on how i was shot, developed and printed or scanned. Unfortunately, it’s not possible to emulate all of the possible aesthetics of Gold in one Recipe, so this is only a facsimile of one particular Kodak Gold 200 look.

Sonoran Saguaro – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – Kodak Gold 200 Recipe

This Kodak Gold 200 Film Simulation Recipe, which will work best in sunny daylight situations, is intended for and is fully compatible with all fifth-generation X-Trans cameras, which (as of this writing) are the X-H2s, X-H2, X-T5, and X-S20 (yes, X-S20). Because X-Trans V renders blue more deeply on some film simulations, setting Color Chrome FX Blue to Weak (instead of Off) will make this Recipe compatible with newer fourth-generation X-Trans cameras—specifically, the X-T4, X-S10, X-E4, and X-T30 II. This Recipe is not compatible with the X100V and X-Pro3; however, you can either try this one with Highlight set to -2 and Shadow set to +1 (and maybe increase exposure by 1/3 stop), or adapt the old Recipe by selecting Grain size Small, Color Chrome FX Blue Off, and Clarity set to 0. Those with newer GFX cameras can use this Recipe, too, but it will render slightly different (give it a try).

Film Simulation: Classic Chrome
Grain Effect: Strong, Small
Color Chrome Effect: Weak
Color Chrome FX Blue: Off
White Balance: Daylight, +4 Red & -5 Blue
Dynamic Range: DR400
Highlight: -1.5
Shadow: +0.5
Color: +3
Sharpness: -2
High ISO NR: -4
Clarity: -2
ISO: Auto, up to ISO 6400
Exposure Compensation: +2/3 to +1 (typically)

Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs using this Kodak Gold 200 Film Simulation Recipe on my Fujifilm X-T5:

Evening Hoop – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Jon on the Gold Coast – Laguna Beach, CA – Fujifilm X-T5
Wave Crashing – Laguna Beach, CA – Fujifilm X-T5
Rainbows & Palms – Buena Park, CA – Fujifilm X-T5
Vines & Cage – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Trumpet Blossom Day – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Sun Pouring Over Tree Leaves – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Rays & Leaf – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Happy Thoughts – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Golden Hour Fountain – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Golden Bougainvillea – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Bougainvillea Arm – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Mission Inn & Flag – Riverside, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Dodge Van Steering Wheel – Buena Park, CA – Fujifilm X-T5
Bird on a Twisted Dead Tree – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Leaf Alone – Flagstaff, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Red Leaves – Flagstaff, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Golden Trees – Flagstaff, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Yellow Forest – Flagstaff, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Autumn Woods – Flagstaff, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Aspen Leaves – Flagstaff, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Golden Aspen – Flagstaff, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Dream – Flagstaff, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5

This post contains affiliate links, and if you make a purchase using my links I’ll be compensated a small amount for it.

Fujifilm X-T5 in black:  Amazon  B&H  Moment
Fujifilm X-T5 in silver:  Amazon  B&H  Moment

Find this Film Simulation Recipe and over 300 more on the Fuji X Weekly App! Consider becoming a Patron subscriber to unlock the best App experience and to support Fuji X Weekly.

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Fujicolor Reala 100 — Fujifilm X-T5 (X-Trans V) Film Simulation Recipe

Posted on by Ritchie Roesch

Houses on the Hill – Laguna Beach, CA – Fujifilm X-T5 – Fujicolor Reala 100 Recipe

Since the next Fujifilm film simulation will be called Reala, I thought it would be a good time to update the X-Trans IV Fujicolor Reala 100 Film Simulation Recipe for X-Trans V cameras. Since blue is rendered more deeply on some film sims on X-Trans V models, a small tweak to Color Chrome FX Blue is needed in order to make it compatible, but otherwise the Recipe is unchanged.

I don’t believe that the new film simulation will be an accurate replication of Reala film, since Classic Negative is so close already; instead, I think Fujifilm is simply going to use the brand name for a film sim that has a neutral and natural rendering (true-to-life or real-like, yet leaning towards soft tonality and muted colors). I don’t know for certain what the new Reala film simulation will look like, this is only a guess based on something Fujifilm said a few weeks ago. We’ll know for sure next week. But I do know that if you want a Reala aesthetic from your Fujifilm X-Trans V camera, this Recipe will produce that!

Fujicolor Reala 100 was Fujifilm’s first Superia film, even though initially it did not have Superia in the name. Superia films shared Fuji’s “4th layer technology” and Reala was the first to have it, but Reala was marketed towards “pro” photographers while Superia was marketed towards “consumer” photographers. Eventually Fujifilm added Superia to Reala’s name. There were several different versions of Reala manufactured, including a high-ISO Tungsten one made for motion pictures, but Reala 100 was the most popular. Reala was very similar to Superia, but Superia was intended for “general purpose” photography while Reala was intended for portrait and wedding photography. Colors are rendered a little differently between the two films, especially blue, which is deeper and more saturated on Reala, despite Reala being overall slightly less saturated than Superia 100. Fujifilm discontinued Reala in 2013.

China in California – Riverside, CA – Fujifilm X-T5 – Fujicolor Reala 100 Recipe

If you have a fifth-generation Fujifilm X camera, which (as of this writing) are the X-H2, X-H2S, X-T5, and X-S20, I invite you to try this Fujicolor Reala 100 Film Simulation Recipe. If you have a Fujifilm X-Pro3, X100V, X-T4, X-S10, X-E4, or X-T30 II, use the X-Trans IV version instead. If you have a newer GFX model, I’m not certain which of the two versions will be most accurate on your camera, so maybe try both and see which you like better.

Film Simulation: Classic Negative
Grain Effect: Weak, Small
Color Chrome Effect: Strong
Color Chrome FX Blue: Weak
White Balance: Daylight, 0 Red & 0 Blue
Dynamic Range: DR400
Highlight: -1
Shadow: -1
Color: 0
Sharpness: -2
High ISO NR: -4
Clarity: -3
ISO: Auto, up to ISO 6400
Exposure Compensation: 0 to +1 (typically)

Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs using this Fujicolor Reala 100 Film Simulation Recipe on my Fujifilm X-T5:

Luxurious Living – Laguna Beach, CA – Fujifilm X-T5
Mission Inn – Riverside, CA – Fujifilm X-T5
Pawlished Fountain – Riverside, CA – Fujifilm X-T5
Fishing by Hand – Riverside, CA – Fujifilm X-T5
Urban Structure Abstract – Riverside, CA – Fujifilm X-T5
I Spy with my Little Eye – Laguna Beach, CA – Fujifilm X-T5
9205 – Buena Park, CA – Fujifilm X-T5
Market Building – Buena Park, CA – Fujifilm X-T5
Suburban Shrub – Buena Park, CA – Fujifilm X-T5
Dodge Van – Buena Park, CA – Fujifilm X-T5
Dodge Steering Wheel – Buena Park, CA – Fujifilm X-T5
Blacksmith – Buena Park, CA – Fujifilm X-T5
Cowboy – Buena Park, CA – Fujifilm X-T5
Wagon Wheel & Cacti – Buena Park, CA – Fujifilm X-T5
Sun Fountain – Buena Park, CA – Fujifilm X-T5
Strength over Thrill – Buena Park, CA – Fujifilm X-T5
Tied up in Knotts – Buena Park, CA – Fujifilm X-T5
Flight – Buena Park, CA – Fujifilm X-T5
Rainbows & Palms – Buena Park, CA – Fujifilm X-T5
Treasure Island Beach – Laguna Beach, CA – Fujifilm X-T5
Eek! – Laguna Beach, CA – Fujifilm X-T5
Pacific Surf Rider – Laguna Beach, CA – Fujifilm X-T5
Leaving the Water – Laguna Beach, CA – Fujifilm X-T5
Happiness – Laguna Beach, CA – Fujifilm X-T5
Golden Glow – Laguna Beach, CA – Fujifilm X-T5
Setting Sun – Laguna Beach, CA – Fujifilm X-T5
Night Light – Buena Park, CA – Fujifilm X-T5
Amanda using RitchieCam – Buena Park, CA – Fujifilm X-T5
Waving – Buena Park, CA – Fujifilm X-T5
Night Truck Driver – Buena Park, CA. -Fujifilm X-T5
Don’t Text & Drive – Buena Park, CA – Fujifilm X-T5
Empty Road – Buena Park, CA – Fujifilm X-T5

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Ilford FP4 Plus 125 — Fujifilm X-T5 (X-Trans V + X-Trans IV) Film Simulation Recipe

Posted on by Ritchie Roesch

Gift Giving – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – “Ilford FP4 Plus 125”

Anders Lindborg is, in my opinion, the guru on Fujifilm black-and-white Film Simulation Recipes. After all, he invented the Kodak Tri-X 400, Ilford HP5 Plus 400, and Ilford Pan F Plus 50 recipes, and co-created the Kodak T-Max 400 recipe. These are some of my favorite monochrome options, and Kodak Tri-X 400 is my all-time favorite recipe, period. Anders also created the Kodak Gold v2 recipe, seven Fujicolor Pro 160NS recipes, seven Fujicolor Pro 400H recipes, and made an important D-Range Priority discovery. This Ilford FP4 Plus 125 recipe was invented by Anders Lindborg, too, so I know that you will love it! It’s a real honor to publish it on Fuji X Weekly, and I appreciate his willingness to share it with all of you.

The story doesn’t end there. Recently, Fuji X Weekly reader Dan Allen wanted to help create an Ilford FP4 Plus 125 recipe, and he purchased some rolls of the film to shoot side-by-side with his Fujifilm camera. When he told me this, I sent him Anders’ recipe to try. After he did his experiment, Dan shared with me the results, which were quite fascinating. It turns out that Dan’s Ilford frames and his Fujifilm digital pictures (using Anders’ recipe) looked similar, but the Ilford frames had less contrast, with softer highlights and shadows, so I made a few small modifications to Anders’ recipe to better match Dan’s pictures. Of course, one film can have many different looks, depending on how it was shot, developed, printed, and/or scanned. “This particular film stock,” Anders told me, “is highly tunable, ranging from super clean to ultra gritty.” No single recipe will ever recreate every possible aesthetic from the film.

“Just like the real thing,” Anders explained to me, “a slight underexposure protects the highlights and improves contrast. Centered around the upper half of the grayscale, this recipe ranges from soft and dreamy to sharp and almost graphic with pencil-like lines. It will almost never go entirely black and is great for shadow details.” Ilford originally introduced FP4 Plus 125 way back in 1968, and in 2014 they improved the emulsion, which is what’s currently available.

Bougainvillea Grey – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – “Ilford FP4 Plus 125”

If you want to use Anders Lindborg’s recipe as he created it, set Dynamic Range to DR100, Highlight to 0, and Shadow to -1. He says that you can “really go crazy” with Clarity and Grain—try Clarity anywhere from -2 to +4, with Grain Weak/Small when using less Clarity (for a cleaner look) and Grain Strong/Large when using more Clarity (for a grittier look). Also, feel free to use the different faux filter options (+Ye, +R, +G) with this recipe.

The Ilford FP4 Plus 125 Film Simulation Recipe is compatible with X-Trans V cameras, which (as of this writing) are the Fujifilm X-T5, X-H2, and X-H2S, and newer X-Trans IV cameras: X-T4, X-S10, X-E4, and X-T30 II. If you have an X100V or X-Pro3, you can use Anders’ unmodified version (explained above); for the X-T3, X-T30, plus X-Trans III, additionally ignore Clarity and Grain size. This recipe is especially well suited for mid-to-high contrast scenes, paying careful attention to the highlights so as to not clip them.

Film Simulation: Monochrome
Grain Effect: Weak, Large
Color Chrome Effect: Off
Color Chrome FX Blue: Off
White Balance: Daylight, +6 Red & -8 Blue
Dynamic Range: DR200
Highlight: -0.5
Shadow: -1.5
Monochromatic Color: 0 WC & 0 MG
Sharpness: 0
High ISO NR: -4
Clarity: +2
ISO: Auto, up to ISO 6400
Exposure Compensation: -1 to -1/3 (typically)

Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs using this “Ilford FP4 Plus 125” Film Simulation Recipe on my Fujifilm X-T5:

Projector Light – Surprise, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Fog Lights – Surprise, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Disco Ball – Surprise, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Christmas Concert – Surprise, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Light Lines – Surprise, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Window Shade Pull – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Window Light on a Small Rug – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Call it a Fuji X Weekly Holiday – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Christmas Gift – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Legos for Christmas – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Was a Rose – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Backlit Petunia – Goodyear, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Dark Bougainvillea – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Lizard on a Wall – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Block Wall – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Gate – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Joy – Goodyear, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Waiting by the Pool – Goodyear, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Butcher – Avondale, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Tamale TV – Avondale, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Reading the Morning Paper – Goodyear, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Coffee Sugar – Goodyear, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Hydrant Top – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Geometric – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Suburban Rooftop – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5

This post contains affiliate links, and if you make a purchase using my links I’ll be compensated a small amount for it.

Fujifilm X-T5 in black:  Amazon  B&H
Fujifilm X-T5 in silver:  Amazon  B&H

Find this Film Simulation Recipe and over 250 more on the Fuji X Weekly — Film Recipes App!

Kodak Negative — Fujifilm X-T5 (X-Trans V) Film Simulation Recipe

Posted on by Ritchie Roesch

Desert Fence – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – “Kodak Negative”

This recipe began as an attempt to mimic my “Nostalgic Negative” Film Simulation Recipe for X-Trans IV cameras using the new Nostalgic Neg. film simulation instead of Classic Chrome. I made that recipe before any camera with Nostalgic Neg. had even been released, when there weren’t very many samples available, and little information had been given about it. I observed “something along the lines of Eterna gradation, [with] the Classic Chrome color palette (however, with a warm shift)….” I also stated that it would “likely turn out to be an inaccurate facsimile to the real Nostalgic Negative film simulation….” Turns out that I was right about both.

I set out to see how close I could get to that X-Trans IV Nostalgic Negative recipe using Nostalgic Neg, on my X-T5. I was hoping that I could get a close match, but unfortunately I was only able to get it to be about 90% similar. Even though it wasn’t an exact match, I still liked the aesthetic. From there I gave it a couple of small tweaks to make it look better (but less like the X-Trans IV recipe), and that’s how this Kodak Negative recipe came to be.

To my eyes, without digging too deeply into samples (just “memory color”), this recipe is reminiscent of Kodak Ektar 100. Maybe +4 Color isn’t quite high enough to mimic Ektar film, but there are definitely some similarities between this recipe and the film. I didn’t set out to recreate Ektar, so I’m not worried that it’s not an exact match. There’s certainly a vibrant Kodak color negative film vibe to this recipe; if not Ektar, then maybe Royal Gold 100 or Gold 100 or something along those lines.

Looking Through the Stone – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – “Kodak Negative”

This Kodak Negative Film Simulation Recipe is only compatible with (as of this writing) the Fujifilm X-T5, X-H2, and X-H2S. I assume that the GFX100S and GFX50S II can also use this recipe, but that it will render slightly different—I don’t have either of those cameras to test it to know for certain. This Kodak Negative recipe is especially well-suited for golden hour photography, but can also be used during most other light situations.

Film Simulation: Nostalgic Neg.
Grain Effect: Weak, Large
Color Chrome Effect: Off
Color Chrome FX Blue: Off
White Balance: Auto, +1 Red & -4 Blue
Dynamic Range: DR400
Highlight: -0.5
Shadow: +2.5
Color: +4
Sharpness: -1
High ISO NR: -4
Clarity: -3
ISO: Auto, up to ISO 6400
Exposure Compensation: +1/3 to +2/3 (typically)

Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs using this “Kodak Negative” Film Simulation Recipe on my Fujifilm X-T5:

Church Dome – Litchfield Park, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Empty Cage – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Water & Reflection – Litchfield Park, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Lake Lamp – Litchfield Park, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Pond at Last Light – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Disappearing Desert Light – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Approaching Dusk at Pond – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Pond Water – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Palm Tree Moon – Litchfield Park, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Media Center – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Golden Triangle – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Golden Leaves – Litchfield Park, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Tree Top Clouds – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Lakeside Townhomes – Litchfield Park, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Soft Shrub – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Three Oranges – Litchfield Park, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Me Photographing Me – Litchfield Park, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Observing the Lake for Fish – Litchfield Park, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Worn Wood – Litchfield Park, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Pier Leg – Litchfield Park, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Lantana – Litchfield Park, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5

This post contains affiliate links, and if you make a purchase using my links I’ll be compensated a small amount for it.

Fujifilm X-T5 in black:  Amazon  B&H
Fujifilm X-T5 in silver:  Amazon  B&H

Find this Film Simulation Recipe and over 250 more on the Fuji X Weekly — Film Recipes App!

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Five Fujifilm X-T5 AI AWB Workarounds

Posted on by Ritchie Roesch

Yesterday I stated that I don’t like the inconsistent results from the new AI Auto White Balance found on the Fujifilm X-T5 and the other X-Trans V cameras. This isn’t a problem for most people, I don’t think; however, if you are a wedding or event photographer (or someone who needs consistent rendering over a series of pictures), if you use Film Simulation Recipes and rely on the out-of-camera JPEGs, and if you commonly use Auto White Balance, this is an issue you are likely to encounter, and you will surely be frustrated by it.

For those who are looking for a workaround to this problem, I want to offer you five potential solutions that might be helpful. None are perfect, so I hope that Fujifilm addresses this with a firmware update in the near future, but in the meantime perhaps one of these will be at least ok for you.

1. Use a Film Simulation Recipe that doesn’t use AWB yet matches the lighting conditions. For example, if you will be photographing indoors under artificial light, instead of using AWB, try Serr’s 500T (which uses a specific Kelvin temperature) or CineStill 800T (which uses Fluorescent 3). While AWB recipes are easy to like because of their versatility (Jack-of-all-trades), Auto White Balance won’t always deliver the best results. You’ll have to figure which recipe might be most appropriate for whatever it is that you are photographing, and there could only be one or two that will really work well; however, if you can match the recipe with the scene and situation, that’s when you’ll get the best outcome.

2. Use Custom White Balance. Instead of using Auto White Balance, take a custom white balance measurement in each lighting condition that you encounter. Your camera has three Custom White Balance banks, so you can take a measurement in up to three different situations at the beginning, and just switch between the three banks as you move throughout the event. For example, Custom 1 could be for outdoors, Custom 2 could be for the reception, and Custom 3 could be for the dressing room. If the light changes significantly due to (for example) the sun’s position in the sky or cloud coverage, you might have to remeasure at various times. You’ll have to remember to switch to the appropriate Custom White Balance bank as the light situation changes.

3. Use Auto White Balance Lock (AWB-L). This feature allows you to lock onto a specific white balance for as long as you keep it locked. To do this, first, while in the Shooting Mode (not Playback), press and hold the Disp/Back button until the Bluetooth & Function (Fn) Setting Menu appears. Pick an Fn button (whichever one you like, as long as it isn’t a touchscreen gesture) to customize, and set it to AWB-L. Next, open the Wrench Menu subset, click Button/Dial Setting, select AWB-Lock Mode, and set it to AWB On/Off Switch. Now, when you think AWB is producing a good white balance for the situation, simply press the Fn button you chose to enable AWB-L, and the camera will keep that white balance until you press the button again to disable it. Don’t forget to disable AWB-L when you encounter different lighting.

4. Program the same Film Simulation Recipe into several C1-C7 Custom Presets, but (for example) set the white balance to Daylight (for outdoors) on one, maybe Fluorescent 3 (for indoors) on another, and some other white balance (for another light you expect to encounter) on another. Definitely check the results at the very beginning to make sure it all looks good (and adjust if necessary) before photographing the whole event this way. You’ll have to remember to change to the correct C1-C7 preset as the light situation changes.

5. Take your chances with AWB. If you shoot RAW+JPEG, even if you have no intentions of editing the RAW files, you can reprocess the pictures in-camera or with X RAW Studio if, by chance, a crucial exposure has a weird color cast. You can simply adjust the white balance to be closer to the others, or apply a B&W recipe (such as Kodak Tri-X 400) and call it being creative.

Fujifilm X-Pro1 (+ X-E1) Film Simulation Recipe: Color Analog

Posted on by Ritchie Roesch

109 – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-Pro1 – “Color Analog”

For this Film Simulation Recipe I didn’t attempt to model any specific film; instead, I wanted a low-saturation, low-to-mid contrast recipe that would remind me of color negative film. I wanted it to be warm, but not overly warm. After several tries, I landed on some settings that I liked. While I didn’t have any film in mind when I created this recipe, it is vaguely reminiscent of Kodak Portra 160 NC, which was a “neutral color” (low-saturation) version of Portra film that was around from 1998 to 2010, when it was discontinued. It’s not an exact match to that film, but is simply by chance in the neighborhood of it. As Lefty Gomez famously said, “I’d rather be lucky than good.”

This recipe is a good daylight and golden hour option, and does alright in overcast conditions, too. If I were to suggest C1-C7 Custom Presets for the X-Pro1, this is one that I would include. I would also consider Color Negative Film, either Kodachrome I or Kodachrome II, Vivid Color, Superia Xtra 400, and Monochrome. I know that’s only six (not seven), but you wouldn’t have to remember to change the White Balance Shift when switching presets because each of these calls for a different White Balance type—you could pick one other recipe (but you’ll just have to remember to switch the shift when changing presets) or leave the seventh spot empty.

Sunset Branch – Bountiful, UT – Fujifilm X-Pro1 – “Color Analog”

This Color Analog recipe was an Early-Access Recipe on the Fuji X Weekly App, and Patrons have had access to it since April. It’s been replaced by a different Early-Access Recipe (look for that one in the App!), so now this Color Analog recipe is available to everyone! It’s compatible the Fujifilm X-Pro1 and X-E1 cameras, but not the X-M1 because that camera doesn’t have PRO Neg. Std for some reason. Those with X-Trans II and Bayer cameras can also use it, although the results will be just a little different.

PRO Neg. Std
Dynamic Range: DR200
Highlight: -1 (Medium-Soft)
Shadow: +1 (Medium-Hard)
Color: -2 (Low)
Sharpness: -1 (Medium-Soft)
Noise Reduction: -2 (Low)
White Balance: Daylight/Fine, -1 Red & -4 Blue
ISO: Auto, up to ISO 3200
Exposure Compensation: +1/3 to +2/3 (typically)

Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs captured using this “Color Analog” Film Simulation Recipe on my Fujifilm X-Pro1:

Daffodil Garden – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-Pro1
Daylight Pines – Bountiful, UT – Fujifilm X-Pro1
Pear Blossom Sky – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-Pro1
Creek Rocks – Bountiful, UT – Fujifilm X-Pro1
Newly Bloomed – Bountiful, UT – Fujifilm X-Pro1
White Fruit Tree Blossoms – Bountiful, UT – Fujifilm X-Pro1
Round & Red – Bountiful, UT – Fujifilm X-Pro1
Aperture Artifact Apparition – Bountiful, UT – Fujifilm X-Pro1
Sunlight Through Tree Branches – Bountiful, UT – Fujifilm X-Pro1
Suspended Sun – Bountiful, UT – Fujifilm X-Pro1
Reflection Structure – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-Pro1
Train 16 – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-Pro1

Find this Film Simulation Recipe and over 250 more on the Fuji X Weekly — Film Recipes App!

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Superia Xtra 400 — Fujifilm X-T5 (X-Trans V) Film Simulation Recipe

Posted on by Ritchie Roesch

Red & Green Bush – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – “Superia Xtra 400”

This is a simple update to the Superia Xtra 400 Film Simulation Recipe, which was originally made for X-Trans IV cameras. I discovered that a slight tweak is needed for X-Trans V models, because the new sensor renders blues just a little deeper on some film simulations, including Classic Negative. For this recipe, simply setting Color Chrome FX Blue from Strong to Weak makes it compatible with (as of this writing) the Fujifilm X-T5, X-H2, and X-H2S.

Thomas Schwab created the Superia Xtra 400 recipe by capturing a roll of actual Superia Xtra 400 film while also capturing identical exposures with his Fujifilm cameras, then, using X RAW Studio, he worked on the settings until he found a match. As you can imagine, he put a lot of time and effort into creating it! He shared with me some of his side-by-side pictures—comparing the film with his recipe—and it was tough to figure out which was which—they looked so close! Also, just recently another photographer shot a roll of Superia Xtra 400 film and used the Superia Xtra 400 recipe on his Fujifilm camera, and he shared with me the similar results he got between the two. Amazing! Of course, with film, so much depends on how it’s shot, developed, and scanned or printed, and the aesthetic of one emulsion can vary significantly.

Lemon Bowl – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – “Superia Xtra 400”

Fujifilm introduced Superia Xtra 400, a consumer-grade color negative film, in 1998, replacing Super G Plus 400. This film has been updated a couple of times, first in 2003 and again in 2006. It’s been widely used, thanks to its low cost and versatility. I’ve shot several rolls of this film over the years. This recipe is for Fujifilm X-Trans V cameras. Those with newer GFX models can use it, too, although it will likely render slightly differently.

Film Simulation: Classic Negative
Grain Effect: Strong, Small
Color Chrome Effect: Off
Color Chrome FX Blue: Weak
White Balance: Auto, +3 Red & -5 Blue
Dynamic Range: DR400
Highlight: 0
Shadow: -1
Color: +4
Sharpness: -1
High ISO NR: -4
Clarity: -2
ISO: Auto, up to ISO 6400
Exposure Compensation: 0 to +1 (typically)

Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs using this “Superia Xtra 400” Film Simulation Recipe on my Fujifilm X-T5:

Forwards or Backwards – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Standing Tall – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Hiding Saguaro – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Don’t Touch – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Neighborhood Fog – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Dark Desert – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Misty Desert – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Clearing Clouds & Desert Mountain – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Ground Fall – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Wet Blossom – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Wet Rosebud – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Early Morning Lamp – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Night Blossoms – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Western Boots – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5

See also:
Fujifilm X-Trans V Film Simulation Recipes
Fujifilm X-Trans IV Film Simulation Recipes

This post contains affiliate links, and if you make a purchase using my links I’ll be compensated a small amount for it.

Fujifilm X-T5 in black:  Amazon  B&H
Fujifilm X-T5 in silver:  Amazon  B&H

Find this Film Simulation Recipe and over 250 more on the Fuji X Weekly — Film Recipes App!

Help Fuji X Weekly

Nobody pays me to write the content found on fujixweekly.com. There’s a real cost to operating and maintaining this site, not to mention all the time that I pour into it. If you appreciated this article, please consider making a one-time gift contribution. Thank you!

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