This Fujifilm X-Trans I film simulation recipe was the first that I created after getting my nine-year-old X-Pro1 camera in the mail. It wasn’t intended to mimic the look of any particular film. I was trying to create a good-looking recipe with a white balance shift inspired by my Fujicolor 100 Industrial recipe. It has a wonderful print film aesthetic, perhaps Kodak-like, that looks especially nice in sunny conditions. I call this recipe “Color Negative Film” because of that generic color negative film quality.
If you are a Patron on the Fuji X Weekly App, you’ve had early access to this recipe since May. A different recipe has replaced it, so if you are a Patron, look for that new early-access recipe in the app! For those who are not Patrons, this recipe is now available to you. If you have a Fujifilm X-Pro1, X-E1, or X-M1, this recipe is compatible with your camera.
If you have a Fujifilm Bayer camera, I invite you to try this recipe on your camera, although results will be a little different. Technically, X-Trans II cameras can use it, too, although it definitely won’t look the same—maybe you’ll like it, maybe you won’t. If you have an X-Trans I camera, this is a must-try recipe that many of you are sure to love!
Provia
Dynamic Range: DR400
Highlight: +2 (High)
Shadow: +2 (High)
Color: -2 (Low)
Sharpness: -1 (Medium-Low)
Noise Reduction: -2 (Low)
White Balance: 3000K, +8 Red & -9 Blue
ISO: Auto, up to ISO 3200
Exposure Compensation: 0 to +2/3 (typically)
Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs captured using this “Color Negative Film” recipe:
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I’ve tried this recipe on my X-T10 (and I like it somehow) but I don’t have a X-Trans I camera to compare. When you say that on a X-Trans II camera it would look totally different, what exactly do you mean? Different in which way? What would I need to change to get the same look (more or less) on my X-T10?
So X-Trans II is a little warmer than X-Trans I. I think Highlight, Shadow and Color render slightly differently, too, but only by a very minor amount. The biggest difference is White Balance. If you like the warmer results on your X-T10, then I say go with it! If you want it to be more similar to X-Trans I, I would think a WB Shift of perhaps +7 Red & -7 Blue should be close (although I have not experimented with that to verify it).
Thank you Ritchie! That’s exactly what I thought as well when I saw the photos shot with this recipe… too warm or at least warmer than your example photographs. Will give it try with the R +7 & B -7 WB shift. I definitely like the overall look of this recipe.
Awesome! Let me know how it goes.
I’m in love with this recipe. I think is the best one of yours. I’m looking for a X Camera and it’s affecting my choices… please make it real for new sensors as well
I tried to recreate this for X-Trans II but it didn’t look the same. It just works so well on X-Trans I.
Hi! I would love to try this one, but I don’t see the kelvin values on the white balance options on my X-M1, which of the options there should I use?
Yes, that’s an oversight on my end, and a weird quirk of the X-M1. If you use Incandescent instead of 3000K it will be pretty near identical.
I can’t seem to set my dynamic range to 400. I can only do 100 the other 2 options are grey, so can’t be selected. I have the M1
You have to increase the ISO. Dynamic Range is ISO dependent. Look at Question 3 in this article:
https://fujixweekly.com/2023/07/13/answers-to-the-10-most-common-fujifilm-how-to-questions/
Also, look at Page 71 of your manual:
https://dl.fujifilm-x.com/support/manual/x/fujifilm_xm1_manual_en.pdf
Hope this helps!