Fujifilm cameras have a feature in Advanced Settings called “High Key” that I recently discovered is based on the Provia film simulation, and can be mimicked. While this “High Key” setting can produce nice-looking images, it’s not really my style, so I set out to create a Film Simulation Recipe to serve as an alternative to it, with an aesthetic that I appreciate a little more. Specifically, I wanted a generic overexposed Kodak color negative film aesthetic, perhaps Portra-like (or at least Portra-inspired), which is why I call this recipe Bright Kodak.
Bright Kodak might look familiar. It’s actually similar to a couple of other recipes, namely Bright Summer (a.k.a. “Preetra 400”) and Kodak Portra 400 Warm. If you like those recipes, you’ll certainly like this one, too. The key to using this Bright Kodak recipe is to increase the exposure—almost overexpose—to make the pictures nice and bright.
This Film Simulation Recipe is fully compatible with newer X-Trans IV cameras: Fujifilm X-Pro3, X100V, X-T4, X-S10, X-E4, & X-T30 II. If you have an X-T3, X-T30, or X-Trans III camera, you can get similar results by ignoring Grain size and using a diffusion filter (such as 10% CineBloom) in lieu of Clarity. This recipe is also likely compatible with newer GFX cameras, although the results won’t be completely identical.
Classic Chrome
Dynamic Range: DR400
Highlight: -2
Shadow: -2
Color: +4
Noise Reduction: -4
Sharpening: -2
Clarity: -3
Grain Effect: Strong, Large
Color Chrome Effect: Off
Color Chrome Effect Blue: Off
White Balance: Daylight, +3 Red & -7 Blue
ISO: Auto, up to ISO 6400
Exposure Compensation: +1 to +1 2/3 (typically)
Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs using this “Bright Kodak” Film Simulation Recipe on my Fujifilm X-E4:
Compared to “High Key”:
Compared to “Bright Summer” & “Kodak Portra 400 Warm”:
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hey richie, great receipt!
but i find many of the portra and portra releated receipts have too much of a green hue.
any idea how to get rid of it? is it just by adjusting White Balance from -7 Blue to let’s say -6 or -5?
thanks for the help!
Going plus Red will remove green. Try +4R or even +5R.
Bright Kodak on Lanzarote, Canary Islands. https://i.imgur.com/twjXZNE.jpg
I didn’t use clarity. Both photos taken with X-T30ii + XF 35/f1.4
Nice! Beautiful shots!
Hey there! Came across this beautiful recipe after seeing some photos taken with it on Reddit.
I’m new to modifying recipes for my Fuji with an X-Trans II sensor and was wondering if you had any thoughts about achieving even a similar aesthetic for that sensor. Been tinkering with settings but can’t quite get it.
Appreciate any help and thanks for all the amazing work!
The X-Trans II cameras don’t have Clarity, Grain, or +4 Color (and maybe not Classic Chrome, depending on the model), but I would look at this Recipe:
https://fujixweekly.com/2020/03/29/not-my-fujifilm-x-t1-x-trans-ii-kodak-portra-160-film-simulation-recipe/
Set DR to DR400 instead of Auto, and Color to +2. Consider using a diffusion filter, like 10% CineBloom or 1/4 Black Pro Mist.
hey richie,
this is one of my most used receipes, but i fear i can not use it anymore when switching to an x-trans V sensor camera. any idea how to adapt this one? or, do you plan to update this one to the V sensor? thanks!!
You can use it on X-Trans V, but the blues will render slightly darker/deeper. Probably not a big deal. There’s nothing that you can really do about it, either. I would give it a try, as you might not notice the difference, or maybe you might even prefer how it looks on X-Trans V.
Can I use this recipes on Fuji X100F or is there something similar? thanks
You have to ignore Grain size, and use a diffusion filter in lieu of Clarity (something like a 10% CineBloom or 1/4 Pro Mist), but otherwise it should do alright on the X100F.
How to convert this to Lightroom preset? Can it be done? Thanks
Lightroom can/will apply its version of its interpretation of some (but not all) of the JPEG settings to the RAW file. It will get you halfway there. If you put in the rest of the work to match as closely as possible the JPEG, you can then save that as a preset. However, for that preset to look “correct” over multiple pictures will require the camera settings (things like WB and Dynamic Range) to be identical from when the preset was made. Also, if you apply it to another camera (especially another brand of camera) it will give divergent results. So you can kind-of-sort-of and with enough work; however, it will not be 100% the same as the SOOC JPEG.
Too much cyan/teal in Kodak Portra 400 Warm, great balance of it in Bright Kodak!
Bright Kodak keeps that in check pretty well while still looking Portra-esque. Nice observation!
can i use this recipe on xt3?
Yes, but you’ll have to ignore Grain size, and I recommend using a 10% CineBloom or 1/4 Pro Mist filter in lieu of Clarity.