New: Fujifilm X-T30 III & Fujinon XC 13-33mm lens

Last night Fujifilm announced the brand-new X-T30 III camera and Fujinon XC 13-33mm f/3.5-6.3 lens. That’s a lot of threes! I’m not going to spend much time talking about either of these products, but I did want to briefly mention their existence.

The X-T30 III is almost identical to the X-T30 II, which was pretty much identical to the X-T30, launched in early 2019. The big changes for the third iteration are: X-Processor 5 and Film Dial. All of the other changes are directly related to those two.

X-Processor 5 brings with it more computing power and more efficient processing, which allows for autofocus and video improvements (including 6K Open Gate), as well as the Nostalgic Neg. and Reala Ace Film Simulations. Probably better battery life, too. The Film Dial replaces the Drive Dial, which has now been relocated to a button on the back, similar to the Fujifilm X-E5, X100VI, and X-Pro3. Some people are greatly offended by this, but the Drive button has worked quite sufficiently on those popular models and has been a complete nonissue, so there’s no reason to believe it won’t be the same for the X-T30 III. Some people like to complain for the sake of complaining. The benefit of the Film Dial is that it can store up to three Film Simulation Recipes, bringing the total possible Recipes that can be programmed into the camera at any one time up to 11 (certainly Nigel Tufnel would buy this camera just for this). As of right now, the X-T30 III and X-E5 are the only two cameras capable of 11 Recipes; however, I hope that Fujifilm brings the FS1/FS2/FS3 Recipe option to the X-T50 and X-M5, and any future models with the Film Dial.

The one negative with the Film Dial on the X-T30 III is that—like the X-E5—it’s limited to only six hard-set Film Simulations. Unfortunately, Classic Negative and Nostalgic Neg. were both excluded. For Classic Negative, that’s inexplicable, as it’s one of the most popular and iconic options. I think if Fujifilm had used the same Film Dial found on the X-T50 and X-M5, that would have been better. While the Film Dial isn’t perfect and certainly can be improved, it’s still a feature that I love, and I’m happy to see it on this camera.

The lens? I personally don’t use zooms very often. I’m more of a prime guy myself. It seems like a budget-friendly alternative to the 10-24mm f/4. I’m sure it’s sufficiently good, and a decent starter kit lens. I have no intentions of owning it, personally. Sold with the X-T30 III, I’m sure it’s worthwhile for $150; I definitely wouldn’t spend $400 on one.

There are two (very annoying) complaints that I’ve seen regarding this announcement: Fujifilm should not release any camera until they have Sony-like AF, and where’s the X-Pro4? Let’s discuss both.

I’ve talked about autofocus at great lengths (just type “autofocus” in the search bar), so I won’t spend much energy on it. My basic argument, though, is that Fujifilm’s AF is pretty good, better than what’s existed for the vast majority of photography, and if you can’t make it work for you, it’s largely user error. Yes, your fault. People are offended by that, but sometimes the truth hurts. Once you accept that truth, it reveals a path forward so that you can move beyond your AF obstacles. It might take learning some new skills and/or learning some new things about your camera that you didn’t realize. Fujifilm’s AF is more than sufficient for 99%+ photographers and situations if you know what you’re doing. Those who constantly complain about it have 1) unrealistic expectations (Canikony brands have been making AF for much, much longer, have larger R&D budgets, and larger teams, so it stands to reason that theirs is and always will be better), 2) an unwillingness to accept that they are a part of the problem (more so than the gear), and 3) no motivation for self-improvement.

Can and will Fujifilm improve their AF? Absolutely. I have zero doubts that they’re working hard on that right now and have been for years. Will those improvements have a practical benefit for most of their customers? Probably not, because we’re nearing the peak of an inverted U curve, which means that each improvement will have a smaller and smaller and smaller impact (this is true for every brand, especially Sony and Canon, who might actually be nearing the back side of the curve). Also, realize that any obstacle—including AF woes—can be overcome if you are willing to self-reflect and put in the work. Those who constantly complain about this topic are unwilling on both accounts.

As for the X-Pro4, which I’m predicting will be called X-Pro5, I’m somewhat confident that it will arrive within the next six months, probably announced in January or February. It will likely kick off X-Trans VI, and the X-T30 III will mark the end of the fifth-generation. In other words, the next X-Pro is coming, just have a little more patience.

Anyway, the Fujifilm X-T30 III will hold the important role of budget-friendly non-PASM model with an EVF. The X-T30 II and the X-T30 before it served this purpose very well, and, despite less fanfare, sold a heck-of-a-lot of copies. The X-T30 III will quietly be a major success, too. At only $999, it’s probably the best value camera in the lineup. Yes, some models are cheaper. Yes, some are better. But none quite offer the bang-for-the-buck that the X-T30 III does.

This post contains affiliate links, and if you make a purchase using my links I’ll be compensated a small amount for it.

Fujifilm X-T30 III in black:
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Fujifilm X-T30 III in silver:
AmazonB&HMomentNuzira
Fujifilm X-T30 III in Charcoal:
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Fujinon 13-33mm f/3.5-6.3:
B&H, Nuzira

Why the Upcoming Fujifilm X-T30 III is Genius, and makes the X-T30 legendary

Fujifilm is about to announce the X-T30 III, the true successor to the X-T30 II. A lot of people assumed that the Fujifilm X-T50 was the X-T30 II’s successor, but it wasn’t—if you a Fuji X Weekly regular, you’ve known that for about a year-and-a-half now. Tomorrow at 10:00 PM Pacific Time, Fujifilm will unveil the new camera.

I don’t have any inside information, but I expect that the Fujifilm X-T30 III will be 95% the same as the X-T30 II, which was 98% the same as the X-T30. Fujifilm announced the original X-T30 in February of 2019. I remember it well because I preordered it, and later created many Film Simulation Recipes with that camera. The X-T30 II, which was basically a firmware update with a few minor changes, came in October of 2021. The ability to save WB Shift with each C1-C7 Custom Settings preset, as well as Classic Negative and other JPEG tools like Clarity, are the major improvements found on the Mark II version. Now, four years later, Fujifilm is about to release the latest iteration.

From all accounts, the X-T30 III will be the same as the X-T30 II, except with X-Processor 5 (which includes Nostalgic Neg. and Reala Ace), a Film Dial like what’s on the X-T50 and X-M5, and a Drive Button instead of a Drive Dial. Aside from that, it will be pretty much the same thing as the X-T30 II. I don’t expect any major changes. Overall, it will be a mild refresh.

Why, then, do I think this camera is genius? Because Fujifilm will quietly sell a whole lot of these. It’s not going to go viral like the X100VI. It’s not going to make major headlines. It’s not going to be a hot topic on Reddit or Facebook groups. But Fujifilm will sell a bunch of X-T30 III cameras, more than most other models offered by the brand.

Just four days ago, New York Magazine published in The Strategist section This Fujifilm Camera Gives Me Film Photos Without the Processing by Katherine Gillespie. It’s essentially a review of the Fujifilm X-T30 II. In that article, Katherine states, “Even just using the cheapest 15-45mm kit lens, the camera creates beautiful JPEG photos that require little to no editing to make the colors pop and can be wirelessly transferred to my phone via Fujifilm’s XApp. For me, this is a big sell. While some people seem to enjoy playing around with presets on Lightroom, as a procrastinator who also sort of hates computers, I can’t think of anything worse than shooting in RAW then having to go through and edit hundreds of photos after every social event or vacation. Especially as doing so would also require purchasing a pricey Adobe subscription.”

The article included a small and subtle shoutout to Fuji X Weekly, which was mind-blowing. This follows the New York Times mention in July. I never imagined getting noticed by such large and prestigious publications. But I digress; however, it is a good read, should you want to.

Statements like Katherine’s are why the X-T30 and X-T30 II sold so well, and why soon the X-T30 III will, too. It’s easy to get great-looking photos without the fuss. The cameras are small, lightweight, inexpensive, and straightforward-enough that they’re accessible to anyone and everyone. Even a child can use it and get great results. Robust enough that professionals can use it for serious work, but not so much that first-time hobbyists are in over their heads. That’s indeed a big sell.

No other Fujifilm camera has been given a Mark III iteration. The X-E2 had a second version called X-E2s. There’s the X-H2 and X-H2s, but that’s a slightly different story. There was an X-T3 WW, which was an X-T3 without an external battery charger included in the box. The X-T4 ES is an infrared version of the X-T4. Most models have their time, followed by a successor; the few with a second variation were not given a third. The X-T30 is unique, with a third iteration about to crest the horizon. That elevates the camera to legendary status in my books. There is no doubt in my mind that the X-T30 III will be a great success for Fujifilm, albeit without the fanfare that other models in the X-series often get.

Pro Neg — Fujifilm X-T3 & X-T30 (+ X-Trans III) Film Simulation Recipe

Small Clouds Above the Roof – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T30 – Pro Neg Recipe

I worked on this Film Simulation Recipe for some time. It wen’t through a lot of iterations, with small tweaks here and there over a few month period, before I landed on the final settings. The idea was to create a generic Kodak-ish color negative film aesthetic, perhaps something similar to ColorPlus 200 or Pro Image 100. While I did look at both of those emulsions a number of times during the development of this Recipe, I didn’t set out to strictly emulate either of them. I think there can be similarities at times to both of those film stocks, but generally speaking this Recipe isn’t a replication of either—or any—film. I hope that makes sense. I do think it does a good job at producing a generic color negative film aesthetic that is by-and-large Kodak-esque, with occasional similarities to both ColorPlus 200 and Pro Image 100.

Pro Neg was a Fuji X Weekly App Patron Early-Access Recipe. The Fuji X Weekly App is free, yet becoming a Fuji X Weekly Patron unlocks the best App experience! One benefit of being a Patron is you get early access to some new Film Simulation Recipes. These Early-Access Recipes will eventually become available free to everyone in time. This one was just replaced by another, so now it’s available to everyone. Patrons help support Fuji X Weekly and, really, without them there would be no App. So I want to give a special “thank you” to all of the Patrons!

Beautiful Bougainvillea Blooms – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T30 – Pro Neg Recipe

This Pro Neg Film Simulation Recipe is compatible with the Fujifilm X-T3 & X-T30, plus all X-Trans III cameras, which are the X-Pro2, X100F, X-E3, X-T2, X-T20, and X-H1. For newer cameras, you’ll have to decide on a Grain size (Small or Large), set Color Chrome FX Blue to Off, and Clarity to 0. This Recipe is also compatible with the GFX100; it can be used on “older” GFX models (50R and 50S), but will render slightly differently (try it anyway).

Film Simulation: PRO Neg. Hi
Dynamic Range: DR400
Grain Effect: Weak
Color Chrome Effect: Off/NA
White Balance: 9100K, -7 Red & +7 Blue
Highlight: +1
Shadow: +1
Color: +1
Sharpness: -1

High ISO NR: -4
ISO: Auto, up to ISO 6400
Exposure Compensation: +1/3 to +1 (typically)

Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs captured using this Pro Neg Film Simulation Recipe on my Fujifilm X-T30:

Empty Schoolyard – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T30
Backyard Wall View – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T30
Hidden Triangle – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T30
Gila River Hat – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T30
Tree by Field 4 – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T30
Bougainvillea Petals – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T30
Little Cloud Between the Trees – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T30
Twin Palms – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T30
Palm Behind Bougainvillea Blossoms – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T30
Suburban Colors – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T30
Bougainvillea in the Sky – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T30
Basketball Hoop at Dusk – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T30
Hoop & Tree – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T30
Court Cycle – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T30
Dusk Saguaro – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T30
One Fallen, One Standing – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T30
Window Reflection – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T30
Yellow Trumpet – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T30
Backyard Rose Blossom – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T30
Backlit Bud – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T30

Exposure Triangle, Part 2: Understanding Shutter Speed

Fujifilm X100VI – f/11, ISO 500, 1/15 shutter – Kodak Gold 200

Part 1: Aperture, Part 3: ISO

Shutter speed simply controls the amount of time that light is exposed to the camera’s sensor. How motion is rendered—either frozen still or as a blur—will depend on the shutter speed. There are a few key things to know, but overall this is all fairly easy to understand.

Before we dive in, I want to quickly revisit aperture, because there’s something I forgot to mention in Part 1. How sunstars and lens flare will appear depends on a number of factors, including (among other things) the aperture you’ve selected. For more pronounced sunstars, use a small aperture, such as f/16. If you want to minimize sunstars and lens flare, use a large aperture, such as f/2. This is just one more factor to consider when choosing the most appropriate aperture for the scene in front of you.

Forest Sunstar – Sedona, AZ – Fujifilm X-T50 & Fujinon 23mm f/2 lens at f/14 – California Summer

Now, with that out of the way, let’s talk about shutter speeds. What is it? What does it do to your pictures? How do you control it to get the images that you want?

The quick and simple definition of shutter speed is that it is the amount of time the camera’s shutter curtain is open, allowing light to reach the sensor or film. A fast shutter speed allows very little light to expose the sensor, while a slow shutter speed allows a lot of light in. Shutter speed is one of three elements of the exposure triangle, along with aperture and ISO, and must be used in balance with the other two elements. On many Fujifilm cameras, the shutter speed is controlled by a knob on the top of the camera, marked with numbers like 125, 250, 500, etc., etc..

Fujifilm X-T30 & Rokinon 12mm f/2 + tripod – 0.4 second exposure – Kodak Gold 200

Some common shutter speeds are 1/15, 1/30, 1/60, 1/125, 1/250 and 1/500. There are, of course, many other shutter speeds, this is far from a comprehensive list. 1/15 is an example of a slow shutter speed, and 1/500 is an example of a quick shutter speed. You’ll note that these are fractions, as in fractions of a second. You’ll also note that they’re half or twice as long as the shutter speed on either side, which means that 1/60 lets in half as much light as 1/30, and 1/15 lets in twice as much light as as 1/30. Like aperture, there are intermediate stops in-between the full stops—most commonly one-third stops, but sometimes half-stops.

Shutter speed is about motion, either freezing or showing it. A slow shutter speed will show motion as a blur, while a fast shutter speed will freeze it. In the first picture below, which was captured with a 1/450 shutter speed, you’d never know that the car was zooming by, because the motion was frozen. The second picture below, which was captured with a 1/80 shutter speed, shows the motion through the car’s blur. The third picture below, which was captured with a 1/60 shutter speed, shows the motion through panning, where the car is sharp but the background blurred from the sweeping lens.

Fujifilm X-M1 & Fujinon 90mm – 1/450 shutter speed
Fujifilm X-M1 & Fujinon 90mm – 1/80 shutter speed
Fujifilm X-M1 & Fujinon 90mm – 1/60 shutter speed

In order to freeze motion, there are a few considerations: the focal length of the lens, the distance of the moving object, and it’s speed. The longer the focal length of the lens, the faster the minimum shutter speed needs to be; the shorter the focal length, the slower the minimum shutter speed needs to be. The closer and faster the moving object is, the faster the shutter speed needs to be; the further and slower the moving object is, the slower the shutter needs to be in order to freeze it.

If nothing is moving in the frame, the only motion is the photographer. A tripod will eliminate camera shake; if you don’t have a tripod, in-body-image-stabilization (IBIS) or optical-image-stabilization (OIS) can help to a degree. If your gear doesn’t have stabilization, you’ll want to use this rule of thumb: whatever the focal length of the lens is (or in the case of Fujifilm cameras, the full-frame-equivalent focal length), the minimum shutter speed should be a similar number. For example, if the lens is 18mm, which has a full-frame-equivalent focal length of 27mm, the slowest hand-held shutter speed is around 1/30. If the lens is 90mm, which has a full-frame-equivalent focal length of 135mm, the slowest hand-held shutter speed is around 1/125. With good techniques, you can often get a sharp picture with even slower shutter speeds, but that takes practice.

Fujifilm GFX100S II & Fujinon 80mm f/1.7 – f/9, ISO 320, 1/680 shutter – 1970’s Summer

In order to freeze motion, for portraits, events, kids, and pets, I recommend a minimum shutter speed of 1/125, but faster is better, such as 1/250. For sports and moving wildlife, the minimum shutter speed should be 1/250, but faster is better, such as 1/500. If the motion is blurry, increase the shutter speed. In order to show motion as a blur, the maximum shutter speed will likely need to be under 1/125, and probably under 1/30, just depending on the situation. If the blur is insufficient, decrease the shutter speed.

Another shutter speed consideration is in regards to flash photography. Some cameras, such as the X100-series, have a leaf shutter, which allows for high-speed flash sync; however, most cameras don’t have a leaf shutter, and have a maximum shutter speed for flash. On Fujifilm models, this is marked by an “X” next to the shutter speed—for example, on the X-T5, the maximum shutter speed for flash photography is 1/250, which is marked as 250X on the shutter knob. The fastest shutter speed you should use with flash photography is the one with the X next to it.

Fujifilm X-T5 & Fujinon 56mm f/1.2 + flash – f/4, ISO 500, 1/250 shutter – Nostalgic Americana

The two main things to remember about shutter speed are 1) that it is used to show motion, either frozen still or as a blur, and 2) it is one aspect of the exposure triangle, and must be balanced with both aperture and ISO. Increasing the shutter speed reduces the light, so you may need to use a larger aperture and/or a higher ISO to compensate; reducing the shutter speed increases the light, so you may need to use a smaller aperture and/or lower ISO. It’s a balancing act. Used thoughtfully, shutter speed can express movement in creative ways, so take a moment to consider how to best use it for the scene in front of you.

This post contains affiliate links, and if you make a purchase using my links I’ll be compensated a small amount for it.

Fujifilm GFX100S II:
AmazonB&HWex
Fujinon GF 80mm f/1.7:
AmazonB&HWex
Fujifilm X-T5 in black:
AmazonB&HMomentWexNuzira
Fujifilm X-T5 in silver:
AmazonB&HMomentWexNuzira
Fujinon 56mm f/1.2 R WR:
AmazonB&HWexNuzira
Fujinon 90mm f/2:
AmazonB&HMomentWex
Fujifilm X100VI in black:
AmazonB&HMomentWexNuzira
Fujifilm X100VI in silver:
AmazonB&HMomentWexNuzira

Fujifilm X-T50 vs Fujifilm X-T30 — Dad vs Daughter — Or, the World’s Most Unfair Camera Comparison

This article pits the Fujifilm X-T50 and Fujifilm X-T30 head-to-head on an autumn photowalk in Ann Arbor, Michigan. Just to warn you, this will likely be the most unfair camera comparison anywhere on the internet. Nonetheless, I hope that you find it worthwhile, or at least enjoyable.

Fujifilm introduced the X-T30 in February of 2019. It features a 26mp X-Trans IV sensor, and was Fujifilm’s mid-tier SLR-styled camera until it was replaced by the nearly identical X-T30 II in November of 2021. Fujifilm announced the X-T50 in May of this year. It features a 40mp X-Trans V sensor and IBIS, as well as the contentious Film Dial. While it is not the X-T30 II’s successor (I assume that means an X-T30 III is a possibility in the future), the two models are clearly in the same family. They are similar in size and design, but the X-T50 is slightly larger and heavier (to accommodate IBIS), with rounded corners and is more expensive. According to the spec sheets, the X-T50 is better in pretty much every aspect, but not necessarily by leaps and bounds. Overall, these two cameras are pretty similar for stills photography; however, for video, the X-T50 is the winner.

Above: Ann Arbor photowalk; photo by Dave Geffin using the Fujicolor PRO 160C Warm Recipe on a Fujifilm X-T50.

This last Saturday, Bryan Minear and I cohosted a photowalk in Ann Arbor in conjunction with PROCAM and Fujifilm. We had an excellent turnout: I counted 48 people, including myself and Bryan. The weather was nice—a nearly perfect crisp autumn morning—and the scenery beautiful. It was a massive success, and just a ton of fun. It was so great to meet those who came out!

One especially great aspect of this photowalk for me is that my seven-year-old daughter, Johanna, was able to join us. I gave her my Fujifilm X-T30 to photograph with, set with the Kodak Portra 400 v2 Film Simulation Recipe. I’ve let her use some of my old digicams before, but not a “nice” camera like the X-T30. I wasn’t sure how well she would do with it, but gave her a quick tutorial and let her have at it. Honestly, she stole the show.

Above left: Johanna with an X-T30, captured by me with an X-T50 using the Fujicolor PRO 160C Warm Recipe; Above right: me with an X-T50, captured by Bryan Minear with a GFX100S II.

I bet you can already see where this article is going. Yes, this totally unfair camera shootout is between myself with a Fujifilm X-T50 and Fujinon 27mm f/2.8 lens and my seven-year-old daughter with a Fujifilm X-T30 and TTArtisan 27mm f/2.8 lens. Even though I had the better gear, I had absolutely no chance of winning. Johanna—with an X-T30—won in a landslide. We’ll get to the pictures in just a moment.

The Fujifilm X-T30 has a few fewer film simulations and JPEG options than the X-T50, but it is still a very, very capable camera. Even in the hands of a child, it can capture excellent images. Between the two, I’ll grab the X-T50 every time; however, if I were trying to decide to buy an X-T50 or X-T30 II, that would be a much tougher decision—the X-T30 II is a better value, while the X-T50 is a little more capable. I don’t think you can go wrong either way. Between a used X-T30 and brand-new X-T30 II, I would lean towards the X-T30 II due to Classic Negative and other firmware upgrades.

Above, top-left: by Rickey White. Above, bottom-right: by Bryan Minear. Above, all others: by my wife, Amanda Roesch. Amanda used a Fujifilm X-T5 + Fujinon 56mm f/1.2 lens + Fujicolor Negative Recipe.

The reason why I declared Johanna the winner is because I’m her dad (she was always going to win… I never had a chance—all the dads out there understand), and also because young children are oftentimes good photographers. They are naturally curious and creative. They don’t think about all the “rules” and what they “shouldn’t” do; instead, they’re just having fun. Also, their perspective is so much different—quite literally, because they are smaller, but also figuratively—so it’s a completely different take from what most adults see—they notice things that others completely overlook. If you have a child, I definitely recommend allowing them to photograph with you sometimes. Don’t be afraid to let them borrow one of your cameras (I know, it’s a risk… my oldest son dropped and broke one of mine when he was little). Those experiences might be pivotal for them, and at the least it’s something you both will remember and cherish for many years.

Below are straight-out-of-camera JPEGs captured during the Ann Arbor photowalk by Johanna using a Fujifilm X-T30 and the Kodak Portra 400 v2 Recipe and by me using a Fujifilm X-T50 and the Film Dial Recipes.

Johanna’s Photos:

Fujifilm X-T30 + TTArtisan 27mm f/2.8 + Kodak Portra 400 v2
Fujifilm X-T30 + TTArtisan 27mm f/2.8 + Kodak Portra 400 v2
Fujifilm X-T30 + TTArtisan 27mm f/2.8 + Kodak Portra 400 v2
Fujifilm X-T30 + TTArtisan 27mm f/2.8 + Kodak Portra 400 v2
Fujifilm X-T30 + TTArtisan 27mm f/2.8 + Kodak Portra 400 v2
Fujifilm X-T30 + TTArtisan 27mm f/2.8 + Kodak Portra 400 v2
Fujifilm X-T30 + TTArtisan 27mm f/2.8 + Kodak Portra 400 v2
Fujifilm X-T30 + TTArtisan 27mm f/2.8 + Kodak Portra 400 v2
Fujifilm X-T30 + TTArtisan 27mm f/2.8 + Kodak Portra 400 v2
Fujifilm X-T30 + TTArtisan 27mm f/2.8 + Kodak Portra 400 v2
Fujifilm X-T30 + TTArtisan 27mm f/2.8 + Kodak Portra 400 v2
Fujifilm X-T30 + TTArtisan 27mm f/2.8 + Kodak Portra 400 v2
Fujifilm X-T30 + TTArtisan 27mm f/2.8 + Kodak Portra 400 v2
Fujifilm X-T30 + TTArtisan 27mm f/2.8 + Kodak Portra 400 v2
Fujifilm X-T30 + TTArtisan 27mm f/2.8 + Kodak Portra 400 v2
Fujifilm X-T30 + TTArtisan 27mm f/2.8 + Kodak Portra 400 v2
Fujifilm X-T30 + TTArtisan 27mm f/2.8 + Kodak Portra 400 v2
Fujifilm X-T30 + TTArtisan 27mm f/2.8 + Kodak Portra 400 v2
Fujifilm X-T30 + TTArtisan 27mm f/2.8 + Kodak Portra 400 v2
Fujifilm X-T30 + TTArtisan 27mm f/2.8 + Kodak Portra 400 v2
Fujifilm X-T30 + TTArtisan 27mm f/2.8 + Kodak Portra 400 v2
Fujifilm X-T30 + TTArtisan 27mm f/2.8 + Kodak Portra 400 v2
Fujifilm X-T30 + TTArtisan 27mm f/2.8 + Kodak Portra 400 v2
Fujifilm X-T30 + TTArtisan 27mm f/2.8 + Kodak Portra 400 v2
Fujifilm X-T30 + TTArtisan 27mm f/2.8 + Kodak Portra 400 v2
Fujifilm X-T30 + TTArtisan 27mm f/2.8 + Kodak Portra 400 v2
Fujifilm X-T30 + TTArtisan 27mm f/2.8 + Kodak Portra 400 v2
Fujifilm X-T30 + TTArtisan 27mm f/2.8 + Kodak Portra 400 v2
Fujifilm X-T30 + TTArtisan 27mm f/2.8 + Kodak Portra 400 v2
Fujifilm X-T30 + TTArtisan 27mm f/2.8 + Kodak Portra 400 v2
Fujifilm X-T30 + TTArtisan 27mm f/2.8 + Kodak Portra 400 v2
Fujifilm X-T30 + TTArtisan 27mm f/2.8 + Kodak Portra 400 v2
Fujifilm X-T30 + TTArtisan 27mm f/2.8 + Kodak Portra 400 v2
Fujifilm X-T30 + TTArtisan 27mm f/2.8 + Kodak Portra 400 v2
Fujifilm X-T30 + TTArtisan 27mm f/2.8 + Kodak Portra 400 v2
Fujifilm X-T30 + TTArtisan 27mm f/2.8 + Kodak Portra 400 v2

Ritchie’s Photos:

Fujifilm X-T50 + Fujinon 27mm f/2.8 + Classic Negative (Superia Negative Recipe)
Fujifilm X-T50 + Fujinon 27mm f/2.8 + Classic Negative (Superia Negative Recipe)
Fujifilm X-T50 + Fujinon 27mm f/2.8 + Classic Negative (Superia Negative Recipe)
Fujifilm X-T50 + Fujinon 27mm f/2.8 + Classic Negative (Superia Negative Recipe)
Fujifilm X-T50 + Fujinon 27mm f/2.8 + Classic Negative (Superia Negative Recipe)
Fujifilm X-T50 + Fujinon 27mm f/2.8 + Classic Negative (Superia Negative Recipe)
Fujifilm X-T50 + Fujinon 27mm f/2.8 + Classic Negative (Superia Negative Recipe)
Fujifilm X-T50 + Fujinon 27mm f/2.8 + Classic Negative (Superia Negative Recipe)
Fujifilm X-T50 + Fujinon 27mm f/2.8 + Classic Negative (Superia Negative Recipe)
Fujifilm X-T50 + Fujinon 27mm f/2.8 + Classic Negative (Superia Negative Recipe)
Fujifilm X-T50 + Fujinon 27mm f/2.8 + Classic Negative (Superia Negative Recipe)
Fujifilm X-T50 + Fujinon 27mm f/2.8 + Classic Negative (Superia Negative Recipe)
Fujifilm X-T50 + Fujinon 27mm f/2.8 + Classic Negative (Superia Negative Recipe)
Fujifilm X-T50 + Fujinon 27mm f/2.8 + Classic Negative (Superia Negative Recipe)
Fujifilm X-T50 + Fujinon 27mm f/2.8 + Classic Chrome (Kodak Film Recipe)
Fujifilm X-T50 + Fujinon 27mm f/2.8 + Reala Ace (Fujicolor PRO 160C Warm Recipe)
Fujifilm X-T50 + Fujinon 27mm f/2.8 + Reala Ace (Fujicolor PRO 160C Warm Recipe)
Fujifilm X-T50 + Fujinon 27mm f/2.8 + Reala Ace (Fujicolor PRO 160C Warm Recipe)
Fujifilm X-T50 + Fujinon 27mm f/2.8 + Reala Ace (Fujicolor PRO 160C Warm Recipe)
Fujifilm X-T50 + Fujinon 27mm f/2.8 + Nostalgic Neg. (Nostalgic Film Recipe)
Fujifilm X-T50 + Fujinon 27mm f/2.8 + Nostalgic Neg. (Nostalgic Film Recipe)
Fujifilm X-T50 + Fujinon 27mm f/2.8 + Classic Negative (Superia Negative Recipe)
Fujifilm X-T50 + Fujinon 27mm f/2.8 + Classic Negative (Superia Negative Recipe)
Fujifilm X-T50 + Fujinon 27mm f/2.8 + Classic Negative (Superia Negative Recipe)
Fujifilm X-T50 + Fujinon 27mm f/2.8 + Classic Negative (Superia Negative Recipe)
Fujifilm X-T50 + Fujinon 27mm f/2.8 + Classic Negative (Superia Negative Recipe)
Fujifilm X-T50 + Fujinon 27mm f/2.8 + Classic Negative (Superia Negative Recipe)
Fujifilm X-T50 + Fujinon 27mm f/2.8 + Reala Ace (Fujicolor PRO 160C Warm Recipe)
Fujifilm X-T50 + Fujinon 27mm f/2.8 + Astia (Astia Summer Recipe)
Fujifilm X-T50 + Fujinon 27mm f/2.8 + Reala Ace (Fujicolor PRO 160C Warm Recipe)
Fujifilm X-T50 + Fujinon 27mm f/2.8 + Velvia (Velvia Film Recipe)
Fujifilm X-T50 + Fujinon 27mm f/2.8 + Velvia (Velvia Film Recipe)
Fujifilm X-T50 + Fujinon 27mm f/2.8 + Acros+R (Neopan Negative Recipe)
Fujifilm X-T50 + Fujinon 27mm f/2.8 + Acros+R (Neopan Negative Recipe)

This post contains affiliate links, and if you make a purchase using my links I’ll be compensated a small amount for it.

Fujifilm X-T30 II in black:
AmazonB&HMomentWexNuzira
Fujifilm X-T30 II in silver:
AmazonB&HMomentWexNuzira
Fujifilm X-T50 in black:
AmazonB&HMomentWexNuzira
Fujifilm X-T50 in silver:
AmazonB&HMomentWexNuzira
Fujifilm X-T50 in charcoal:
AmazonB&HMomentWex
TTArtisan 27mm f/2.8:
Amazon, B&H, Wex
Fujinon 27mm f/2.8:
AmazonB&H, Moment, Wex,

Find these Film Simulation Recipes and many more on the Fuji X Weekly App!

Which Film Simulation Recipes, When? — Part 3: X-T3 & X-T30 (2024 Edition)

Colorful Flags – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T30 – Classic Kodak Recipe

Part 1 (X-Trans V)Part 2 (X-Trans IV)

I get asked all of the time when to use which Film Simulation Recipe. With over 350 in the Fuji X Weekly App to choose from, it can be difficult to know when each Recipe should be chosen, especially since many of them are specifically intended for sunny daylight conditions. With only seven Custom Settings presets on your Fujifilm camera (for most of you, anyway), which ones should you have programed? When should you select them?

The problem with trying to answer this question is that it’s a highly subjective endeavor. While I might like a certain Recipe for a particular situation, you might not. There’s not a right or wrong answer, just what works for you and what doesn’t—and I cannot say whether any particular Recipe will work for you or not. Only you can answer that for yourself, and you have to try a Recipe to know. With that said, I do attempt to give good advice. I’ve written many articles related to this topic, including the series Which Film Simulation Recipes, When? While that has likely been the most helpful, it’s nearly two-years-old now, and a lot of new Recipes have been published since. I think it’s time to update the series for 2024.

Bougainvillea Below Window – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T30 – McCurry Kodachrome Recipe

The premise of the original series is that Jason Kummerfeldt of Grainydays, a YouTube channel about film photography, gave some advice on when to use which film emulsion in a video entitled Which Film Stock, When? Since film choice is such a personal thing, how do you say when to use which? It’s the same thing for Film Simulation Recipes. His solution was simply to demonstrate what he uses and state what he likes, and maybe you’ll like it, too. In my series, I copied that approach for Recipes—I told you my preferences, and invited you to try them out. We’re going to follow that same formula for this update with just a small twist, which I think makes a little more sense.

What makes Part 3 more challenging than the first two articles is that the X-T3 and X-T30 cameras cannot remember a White Balance Shift within the C1-C7 Custom Settings presets. If two Recipes share the same white balance type but not the same shift, when you switch presets you must remember to adjust the shift, too. That can be inconvenient and frustrating, so my best solution is to program Recipes that use different white balance types and/or share the same white balance type and shift. The user experience is much improved, but you might not be able to program all of your favorite Recipes at the same time, which is the one downside to this solution. What I set out to do with this article is recommend seven Recipes, one for each C1-C7 Custom Settings preset, that don’t share the same white balance type, or, if they do, share the same shift. It’s a difficult task, but I think I came up with a good set for you; however, there were definitely some tough cuts.

Vintage Sunset – Ogden, UT – Fujifilm X-T30 – Kodacolor Recipe

Also, if you have a newer X-Trans IV camera, you can use these Recipes, too, by simply setting Color Chrome FX Blue to Off, Clarity to 0, and choosing a Grain size (either Small or Large). While the next installment will cover X-Trans III, some of these Recipes are compatible with X-Trans III cameras; the key is to look for whether they call for Color Chrome Effect or not—if not, it’s compatible with X-Trans III. Also, X-Trans III recipes are fully compatible with the X-T3 and X-T30 (just set Color Chrome Effect to Off), but I avoided those Recipes for this article because I wanted to save them for Part 4.

Below are seven Recipe suggestions for you to program into C1-C7 on your Fujifilm camera, with advice on when to use each. Since Recipes are (for the most part) generationally specific, each article will cover a different group of cameras. This is Part 3, and covers the Fujifilm X-T3 and X-T30.

C1 — Kodak Portra 400 v2 — Sunny Daylight #1

Window to the City – Salt Lake City, UT – Fujifilm X-T30 – Kodak Portra 400 v2

Kodak Portra 400 v2 does well anytime during daylight hours, but especially for “golden hour” near sunrise and sunset. As the name suggests it is a good option for portrait photography, but is excellent for many genres. This really could be your primary use-most-of-the-time Recipe, and that’s why I suggest placing it in C1. This Recipe uses the Daylight White Balance type, as do the first four of the suggested alternatives below (but not the last one).

Some alternatives to consider:
Kodachrome 64
Kodak Gold 200
Kodak Portra 160
Kodak Portra 400
Pro Neg

Note: Kodak Gold 200, Kodak Portra 160, and Kodak Portra 400 all share the same WB type and WB shift, and could potentially be your C1-C3.

C2 — Classic Kodak — Sunny Daylight #2

Split Saguaro – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T30 – Classic Kodak

I like to reserve C2 for bright midday photography. The old rule of thumb was once the sun was high in the sky, it’s time to put the camera away. While Classic Kodak can be used anytime the sun is out, it is a great options for middle-of-the-day situations, and proves the old adage wrong. This Recipe uses the Shade White Balance type, as do the first two suggested alternatives below (but not the bottom three).

Some alternatives to consider:
Porto 200
Lomography Color 100
McCurry Kodachrome
Kodacolor
Kodacolor VR

C3 — Kodak Vision3 250D — Sunny Daylight #3

Ice Cream Trailer – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30 – Kodak Vision3 250D

This is a good spot to have an alternative aesthetic compared to C1 and C2—as I don’t think you’d want to have all three up to this point to be essentially similar. Although each of the first three have a Kodak-negative-like look, Kodak Vision3 250D produces a notably divergent aesthetic. With the ones I’ve suggested so far, you’ve got a good set for all sorts of daylight situations no matter your subject. This Recipe uses the Fluorescent 1 White Balance type, as does the first suggested alternative below (but not the bottom four).

Some alternatives to consider:
Color Negative
Fujicolor 100 Industrial
Fujicolor Pro 160NS
Negative Print
Analog Color

C4 — Ektachrome E100GX — Overcast

Pink Rose Blossom – Ogden, UT – Fujifilm X-T30 – Ektachrome E100GX

Ektachrome E100GX is excellent for sunny daylight photography, but it also does pretty well for dreary overcast conditions. It uses the Fluorescent 2 White Balance type, as does the first suggested alternative below (but not the bottom four).

Some alternatives to consider:
Fujichrome Sensia 100
Classic Slide
Fujicolor Pro 400H
Eterna Bleach Bypass
Eterna v3

C5 — Kodak Ultramax— Versatility

Street Lamp Sunset – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30 – Kodak Ultramax

I like to have at least one Recipe programmed into my camera that’s highly versatile and can be used no matter the situation. While there are not as many options for the X-T3 and X-T30 as there are for newer X-Trans IV cameras, there are still some excellent options; of those, my personal favorite is Kodak Ultramax. It uses the Auto White Balance type, as do all of the suggested alternatives below.

Some alternatives to consider:
Velvia
Velvia v2
Eterna
Polaroid
Verano Tostado

C6 — Jeff Davenport Night — Nighttime

Wet Glass Bokeh – Salt Lake City, UT – Fujifilm X-T30 – Jeff Davenport Night

If it’s between dusk and dawn, especially if there are city lights, Jeff Davenport Night is the recipe to use on your X-T3 and X-T30 cameras. Period. It uses the Kelvin White Balance type, as does the first option below (but not the bottom four).

Some alternatives to consider:
Eterna Low Contrast
Cinematic Negative
Melancholy Blue
Expired Eterna
Fujicolor Pro 400H Overexposed

C7 — Analog Monochrome — B&W

Minolta SRT303b – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-H1 – Analog Monochrome

Last but not least is B&W. Filling out the last slot is tricky, because most of the White Balance types have already been used. There are basically three options: choose an X-Trans III Recipe—which is fully compatible with the X-T3 and X-T30—that uses a different WB type (that’s what I’ve done here, as Analog Monochrome utilizes Incandescent); use an Auto WB Recipe—perhaps Ilford Delta Push Process—and disregard the WB Shift, and accept the results for what they are (which will be nearly the same, but not exactly the same); or use a Daylight WB Recipe—perhaps Kodak Tri-X 400—and substitute Daylight with Underwater, which is similar enough that you’re not likely to notice the difference.

Some alternatives to consider:
Kodak Tri-X 400
Agfa APX 400

Monochrome Kodachrome
Ilford Delta Push-Process
Ilford HP5 Plus 400 Push-Process

Find these Film Simulation Recipes in the Fuji X Weekly App! Consider becoming a Patron subscriber to unlock the best App experience and to support Fuji X Weekly.

Stay tuned for Part 4!

Film Simulation Recipes for an ’80’s Look

Captured with a Fujifilm X-T30 using the Kodacolor Recipe

I was asked how to get an ’80’s look from Fujifilm cameras, similar to my articles explaining how to get a ’90’s look (here and here). Well, it’s actually quite easy! I have several Film Simulation Recipes that mimic a 1980’s aesthetic. Simply program one (or more) of those Recipes into your Fujifilm camera, and you’re good to go.

First, I want to share with you some pictures that I recently captured on my Fujifilm X-T30 using the Kodacolor Recipe, which is my favorite for replicating an ’80’s vibe. Take a look!

Using vintage lenses from the 1980’s, or perhaps inexpensive third-party lenses with character, will help with the overall aesthetic. For the pictures above, I used a TTArtisan 27mm f/2.8, which has strong vignetting when used wide open. Basically, you don’t want a clean digital image; some technical flaws are preferred, I think.

Below are my Top 7 Film Simulation Recipe suggestions for a 1980’s look. I’m sure there are others that could suffice, too, but these are the ones that I recommend the most.

This Recipe produces a distinct 1980’s Kodak color negative film rendering. Great for sunny daylight photography. Compatible with X-Trans III cameras, plus the X-T3 and X-T30. Click here for X-Trans II. There are also a couple other versions (here and here). To use this Recipe on “newer” X-Trans IV cameras, simply set Grain size to Small, Color Chrome FX Blue to Off, and Clarity to 0. This is my top suggestion for a 1980’s look.

This Kodacolor VR Recipe is similar to the Kodacolor Recipe above, but a little different—it is more reminiscent of slightly expired Kodacolor VR film. It also has a distinct 1980’s vibe. Compatible with X-Trans III cameras, plus the X-T3 and X-T30. For use on “newer” X-Trans IV cameras, simply set Grain size to Small, Color Chrome FX Blue to Off, and Clarity to 0.

Reminiscent of the quintessential Kodak color negative film, which was first introduced in the late-1980’s. This Recipe is great for sunny daylight photography. Compatible with X-Trans V cameras; for X-Trans IV (except the X-T3/X-T30), set Color Chrome FX Blue to Weak. For X-Trans III cameras, plus the X-T3 and X-T30, click here.

Kodachrome 64, which mimics the unmistakable colors of the iconic slide film, is perfect for sunny daylight photography. This is the X-Trans V version; for X-Trans IV (except for the X-T3/X-T30) click here, for the X-T3 and X-T30 click here, and for X-Trans II click here. Kodachrome 64 was introduced in 1974 and discontinued in 2009, so it isn’t strictly a 1980’s aesthetic, but definitely falls within the era.

The aesthetic of the Emulsion ’86 Recipe is reminiscent of some pictures from the Expo ’86 World’s Fair. This Recipe is for X-Trans V cameras.

Fujicolor Super HG was a color negative film introduced by Fujifilm in the 1980’s. While it was never as popular as Kodak’s stocks, it still has a distinct ’80’s vibe. Best for sunny daylight conditions, although it can do well in other situations, too. This Recipe is compatible with X-Trans IV cameras (except the X-T3/X-T30); for use on X-Trans V, set Color Chrome FX Blue to Weak.

Similar to Fujicolor Super HG (“v1”), this version offers more versatility, and is great for nighttime and artificial light situations; however, I think v1 has a bit stronger ’80’s aesthetic. This is the X-Trans V version, for X-Trans IV (except the X-T3, X-T30, X100V & X-Pro3) click here.

See also:
How To Add Film Simulation Recipes To Your Fujifilm Camera
Why Film Simulation Recipes are BETTER than default Film Simulations
Why Shooting JPEGs Is So Popular

Find these Film Simulation Recipes and many more on the Fuji X Weekly App!

Using my Fujifilm X-T30 for the first time in a long time

The last time that I used my Fujifilm X-T30 was in early December. Yesterday was the first instance I had made any pictures with it in over six months, the longest time in-between use. Once it was my most-used camera; there was a time when I really, really liked the X-T30.

I purchased my Fujifilm X-T30 brand-new in 2019, right when it was announced in February. I used it extensively for about 15 months, until my wife gave me an X100V for my birthday. I still regularly photographed with it for awhile (although not nearly as much as before the X100V), until I purchased a Fujifilm X-E4 in March of 2021. Ever since then, my X-T30 has mostly sat on the shelf collecting dust. Every now-and-then I still capture some images with it. At first it was once every few weeks, then once every couple of months—the time gap has been growing longer and longer. Finally, it surpassed six months.

You might think that it’s time to sell it. If I’m not using the camera, perhaps someone else could. I’m sure there are people contemplating a used X-T30 right now. But I kind of want to hold onto it awhile longer. I have a lot of memories with the camera. In fact, just today my wife was showing me some family pictures from 2019 and early 2020, and in a number of them I have an X-T30 in my hands or around my neck. Maybe I should consider parting ways with it, but I’m not ready to do so just yet.

Especially after yesterday. I dusted the camera off, attached a TTArtisan 27mm f/2.8 lens, loaded it with my Kodacolor Recipe, and captured a bunch of pictures—I’ve included four of those images above. It was so much fun! My kids enjoyed being photographed, too. I’m not a portrait photographer, but I sometimes pretend to be one. The X-T30 is a great little camera, and I particularly appreciate the diminutive size and weight of it. The Kodacolor Recipe is one of my favorites, especially for a 1980’s vibe.

While I’d prefer a Fujifilm X-T30 II or especially a Fujifilm X-T50, the X-T30—the original one from 2019—is still very good. Just because some new camera comes along that’s “better” doesn’t mean that the camera you own and use is somehow not good. The Fujifilm X-T30 is still worth owning and using in 2024, and will be for awhile to come. I definitely need to use it more often than I have recently, and not allow so much time to go by in-between picking it up.

The Essential 7 Film Simulation Recipes to Program Into Your Fujifilm Camera First — Part 3: X-T3 & X-T30

Vintage Sunset – Ogden, UT – Fujifilm X-T30 – Kodacolor

Part 1 — X-Trans V, Part 2 — X-Trans IV, Part 4 — X-Trans III, Part 5 — X-Trans II, Part 6 — X-Trans I

I frequently get asked: which seven Film Simulation Recipes should I program into my camera first? I’ve published over 300 on this website and in the Fuji X Weekly App, and the choices can become overwhelming. I’ve attempted to help out with this dilemma several times, including the Which Film Simulation Recipe, When? series, Try These 3 Film Simulation Recipes No Matter Your Fujifilm Camera, The 10 Best Film Simulation Recipes on the Fuji X Weekly App, Top 25 Most Popular Film Simulation Recipes of 2023, and many others. My hope is that these types of articles help you to find some good Recipes to try, in case you’re not sure where to begin or what to use. This post is Part 3 of the series.

The list of Film Simulation Recipes below are my “Essential 7” for the X-T3 and X-T30. Fujifilm left these two models on an island (didn’t give them the same JPEG options as the other X-Trans IV models), so that’s why they get their own article. If you are not sure which Recipes to program into your C1-C7 Custom Presets, these are my suggestions for you to begin with. These are the ones that you must try, in my opinion. You might love all of them, you might only appreciate some of them, or you might not like any of them. Each person has their own styles and tastes, and there’s no one single Recipe that’s universally loved by everyone (although a few seem close). Still, give these seven a try—keep the ones you like, and replace the ones that you don’t.

Evening at Monument Valley – Monument Valley, AZ – Fujifilm X-T30 – Velvia

A couple of important side notes here. First, this list isn’t necessarily made up of versatile Recipes. Like film, most Film Simulation Recipes have specific use cases—such as sunny daylight—so not all of these option will be good for night photography, for example, or perhaps other situations. Be sure to visit my Which Film Simulation Recipe, When? article for a more comprehensive group of options for various use cases. Also, the X-T3 and X-T30 cannot save a White Balance Shift within the C1-C7 Custom Presets. You can only save one WB Shift per White Balance type, which means you’ll have to remember to adjust the WB Shift each time you change Recipes. The suggestions below do not take this into account; however, the Which Film Simulation Recipe, When? article does, so be sure to read it.

The Essential 7 Film Simulation Recipes to program into your X-T3 or X-T30 camera first:

C1 — Kodachrome 64

C2 — Kodak Portra 400 v2

C3 — Kodak Gold 200

C4 — Kodacolor

C5 — Fujicolor 100 Industrial

C6 — Velvia v2

C7 — Dramatic Monochrome

Find these Film Simulation Recipes and many more on the Fuji X Weekly App! Consider becoming a Patron subscriber to unlock the best App experience and to support Fuji X Weekly.

Load These Two Film Simulation Recipes Into Your Camera…

Evening Saguaro – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T30 – “Kodak Ektachrome 100SW”

For those who watch the monthly SOOC broadcast, the current recipe-of-the-month is Fujichrome Sensia 100. We introduced that Film Simulation Recipe in the last episode, and we will finish our discussion of it in the next show, which will be in one week, on Thursday, November 17th. I hope that you’ll join us! Don’t forget to upload your photos captured with the Fujichrome Sensia 100 Film Simulation Recipe (click here) by November 15th to be shown in the next broadcast.

Speaking of the next SOOC broadcast, after we finish our discussion of the Fujichrome Sensia 100 recipe, we’ll introduce the next recipe-of-the-month, which will be Kodak Ektachrome 100SW. It produces warm and vibrant colors, which I find especially well suited for landscape photography. Be sure to set a reminder, so that you don’t miss the episode!

For those who don’t know, SOOC is a monthly live video series, with each episode focused on a different Film Simulation Recipe. It is a collaboration between Tame Your Fujifilm (Fujifilm X-Photographer Nathalie Boucry) and Fuji X Weekly (Ritchie Roesch). SOOC is a fun and educational experience where we not only talk about Fujifilm camera settings, but also answer your questions and give tips and tricks. Basically, we’re trying to help you master your Fujifilm camera, with a focus on simplifying your photographic workflow. It’s also interactive, and your participation makes it great!

Even though I have my own photography projects going on and I’m always working on new Film Simulation Recipes, I also shoot with the recipes that we discuss in each episode (plus the upcoming episode). I have been using both the Fujichrome Sensia 100 and the Kodak Ektachrome 100SW recipes. I don’t just ask you to use the recipes, myself and Nathalie both use them, too—we’re doing it together as a community.

Flag Pole – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T30 – “Fujichrome Sensia 100”

If you have a Fujifilm X-Trans III or newer camera, I invite you to program and shoot with the Fujichrome Sensia 100 Film Simulation Recipe, and share with us your results. While you’re at it, load the Kodak Ektachrome 100SW recipe into your camera, too, and have it ready to go for next week.

If you missed the last SOOC broadcast, which really was a good one, you can watch it below. It’s a bit long (we have a little problem called “time management”… 🤣), but I believe you’ll find it worthwhile.

See you next Thursday!

Fujifilm X-T30 (+X-T3 & X-Trans III) Film Simulation Recipe: Classic Kodak

Colorful Flags – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T30 – “Classic Kodak”

As I was beginning to put together my recent article, Which Film Simulation Recipes, When? — Part 2 (X-T3 & X-T30), I realized that I didn’t have a lot of Film Simulation Recipes that use the Shade White Balance. Cameras that are older than the Fujifilm X-Pro3 cannot save a White Balance Shift with each C1-C7 Custom Preset; however, the camera will remember one shift with each white balance type, so if each C1-C7 Custom Preset uses a different white balance type, you won’t have to remember to adjust the shift, which improves the user experience. I realized that I needed another recipe that uses the Shade white balance type, so that’s where this recipe originated.

Specifically, I set out to create a Film Simulation Recipe that could make a good option for “golden hour” or “midday” daylight photography—potentially a solid choice for C1 or C2 in your camera. I wanted it to have a classic Kodak aesthetic—perhaps a bit nostalgic, like from the 1970’s or 1980’s, maybe somewhat similar to Kodacolor—but not modeled after any specific film. Something classic and warm and clearly Kodak-like. I really like what I came up with, and I think many of you will, too!

Saguaro Green – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T30 – “Classic Kodak”

This “Classic Kodak” Film Simulation Recipe is compatible with the X-T3 and X-T30 cameras, and, because it doesn’t use Color Chrome Effect, it’s also compatible with X-Trans III models. To use this recipe on newer X-Trans IV (and X-Trans V) cameras, simply set Color Chrome FX Blue to Off, Clarity to 0, and choose a Grain size (either Small or Large).

Classic Chrome
Dynamic Range: DR400
Highlight: -2
Shadow: +1
Color: +4
Noise Reduction: -4
Sharpness: -1
Grain Effect: Strong
Color Chrome Effect: Off
White Balance: Shade, -1 Red & +2 Blue
ISO: Auto up to ISO 6400

Exposure Compensation: +1/3 to +1

Below are all camera-made JPEGs captured using this “Classic Kodak” Film Simulation Recipe on my Fujifilm X-T30:

Clocktower – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T30
Center on Main – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T30
5 & 6 – Goodyear, AZ – Fujifilm X-T30
Water Fountain – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T30
Circle Around the Roofline – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T30
Old Doll Head For Sale – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T30
Unlit Bulbs and Rainbow – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T30
Rainbow Hidden in the Trees – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T30
Small Yellow Leaves – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T30
Dressed in Pink – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T30
Green Garden Leaves – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T30
Palm Branches in the Sky – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T30
Sonoran Desert Mountains – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T30
Split Saguaro – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T30

Find this Film Simulation Recipe and over 250 more on the Fuji X Weekly — Film Recipes App!

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On Learning & Teaching — An Interview with Tim Duncan of Second Stage Garage

Photo by Tim Duncan — Fujifilm X-T30 & Fujinon 27mm f/2.8

Are you somewhat new to photography? Not really sure what you’re doing with your camera? Are you intimidated by social media, especially short form video like TikTok and Reels? Do you like cars? Fast cars? Do you appreciate conversations with interesting people? If the answer is yes to any of those questions, this interview is for you, and you’re going to want to keep reading!

Those who refurbish rusty Toyota Corollas into fast racing cars likely have heard of Tim Duncan and know of his garage, Second Stage. Perhaps you’ve seen him on TikTok or Instagram, where some of his videos have been watched by millions. Otherwise, let me introduce you: Tim Duncan is an up-and-coming photographer from Adelaide, South Australia. He has a thirst for learning, and isn’t afraid to try (and fail, and try again). He also has a passion for teaching. Oh, and he’s creative. All of it comes together in this article, where Tim and I discuss all sorts of things, including Fujifilm cameras and Film Simulation Recipes.

Photo by Tim Duncan — Fujifilm X-T30 & Fujinon 27mm f/2.8

FXW: How did you get started turning rusty Corollas into track cars? Where did your passion for cars, mechanics, and racing come from?

Tim Duncan: The very beginning would have been my cousin taking me to drag racing when I was 14, then I watched the movie Gone in 60 Seconds at the cinema—after that I was pretty much hooked on all things cars.

The passion comes from what cars can teach. Everyday I am looking for ways to learn something new, and with cars it really is never-ending.

When I was younger I was obsessed with all things muscle car. My first project car was a Chrysler Valiant Charger with a 265 CI straight six engine—I bought that when I was 17 and spent years trying to fix it up. During this time I learned that I actually really enjoy driving cars on tight twisty roads. Where I live in South Australia we actually have some amazing driving roads right near the city in the Adelaide Hills. So I wanted a new project car that was great around a corner, but I was still so attached to muscle cars. Then I discovered that Toyota made a factory engine that came with a supercharger: the 4AGZE! A friend was selling a shell of an AE86 and all it needed was a supercharged 1.6L engine, so I bought that and never looked back. The rusty Corollas are really the end point of what I enjoy about cars

The Panel Van — Photo by Tim Duncan — Fujifilm X-T30 & Fujinon 27mm f/2.8

FWX: Tell me about your Corolla panel van project. How did you get started with that, what’s your current progress, and what’s the goal?

Tim Duncan: It’s actually a silly story where the idea came from. My friends all had drift cars and they were trying to encourage me to build one, too. My good mate, Ash, did this terrible “Photoshop” picture of me sideways in a Corolla panel van. Life happened and I never built any drift car, but for some reason that stupid silly photo always stuck with me. Then years later a shell popped up for sale for $150 and it was just a perfect time for me to start a big project, to build the drift car that never happened. Never underestimate the power of a meme! The end goal is to have a reliable easy-to-maintain-and-run drift car for having fun with my family and friends. 

Current progress: I have mounted a 3800cc GM v6 from a Holden Commodore, then a stronger diff from a R31 skyline. Full custom suspension for extra lock in the front and 4 link equal length rear. A complete weld-in roll cage and mounted fixed back seats for safety. The next step is to get the exhaust finished—I got a little carried away trying to make a 6-1 exhaust that collects behind the motor. 

Photo by Tim Duncan — Fujifilm X-T30 & Fujinon 27mm f/2.8

FXW: Tell me about your passion for teaching—where did that begin? What is your teaching outlet?

Tim Duncan: It’s just something that has always come very natural to me, but only recently I have realized it’s a core value of mine. I was saying before I love to learn, and the old saying is you don’t truly understand something until you can explain it clearly to someone else. So I guess my love for learning works together with the love of teaching others.

I basically have two outlets: I like to make short form videos for TikTok and Instagram and now YouTube Shorts, and a lot of my content is teaching trade skills and basics about cars; my other outlet, which is really important to me, is my nephews coming to my workshop to help build the drift van. We try to do a session once a week where they come to the workshop—if I can teach them some basic skills and work ethics for when they head out into the real world, that would make me very happy.

Photo by Tim Duncan — Fujifilm X-T30 & Fujinon 27mm f/2.8

FXW: You’ve had some success with short form video. What advice would you give to someone interested in making short form videos but are not really sure where to start or are maybe too insecure to try?

Tim Duncan: You have to make videos about something you are passionate about, and you need to be yourself. What makes it work is being authentic. If you are trying to follow trends or just make videos purely to get views, there is no way you can sustain that. I can already hear the response, “Thanks for the super vague cliché answer, Tim—this does not help me!” (ha ha). So here’s some practical advice: the most important thing is to focus on your hook at the start of a video—you literally have 0.5 to maybe 1.5 seconds to grab someone’s attention, and if you can’t do that they’re going to keep scrolling. It’s very hard to hold someone’s attention. I started out forcing myself to only make 15 seconds videos—think back to Vine where you only had seven seconds to get across a point. Short form video is definitely hot right now, but don’t get fooled into thinking that this is easy.

Painting by Tim’s Grandfather, Thomas Allen Duncan

FXW: Your grandfather was an accomplished painter. Tell me about him. What impact did he have on your life?

Tim Duncan: He had such a huge impact on my life! I have fond memories of him trying to teach me how to draw and paint, how to play chess. When I was 12 he handed me a welder and taught me how to do my first welds. He always talked so passionately about being a tradesmen—he made being a boilermaker sound so exciting and interesting, that’s all I wanted to be when I grew up. I ended up being a maintenance fitter instead, but I have always loved fabricating with metal as much as I can. He loved my Nanny so much and wanted nothing more than to provide and give her the best life possible—I believe he did that. On top of all of this he was always painting. My whole life I had his paintings hanging up around my house. He tried his best to get me started, but it just never clicked—yet I feel the concepts he was trying to teach me has certainly shaped how I see the world. He showed me how an artist sees the world, that an old building or a tree or a small boat on a shore can be beautiful. Painting is definitely not my thing; taking photos is my artistic outlet, and I owe most of that to my Grandad. 

Photo by Tim Duncan — Fujifilm X-T30 & Fujinon 27mm f/2.8

FXW: How did you get started in photography? What was your first camera? Why Fujifilm?

Tim Duncan: I would definitely call myself an amateur/hobbyist, but I would say I am only just now getting started. Growing up I had a few point and shoots, and I would borrow my Dad’s Canon DSLR, but my first real camera is the one I’m using now: a Fujifilm X-T30 with a 27mm f/2.8 lens. I was wanting to get a “real” camera for a little while and was looking at a few options. To be honest I was searching for a better way to record audio for YouTube videos and wanted a mirrorless camera that I could plug a mic into. For some reason I was always attracted to the Fuji cameras—for me, they’re like Nintendo. While you have Playstation and Xbox trying to be the biggest, best, and fastest with spec sheets (just look how powerful we are!), Nintendo is making console and game experiences that are fun and with way more character—that’s my Fuji camera. I get loads of comments asking, “Is that an old film camera?” It has dials that I love adjusting, it’s nice to look at, and I just really love using it.

When I got the X-T30, I decided to start taking a few photos with it to get the hang of the camera, then I’d start filming with it. But I just found myself really enjoying taking photos, and I fell in love with photography!

Photo by Tim Duncan — Fujifilm X-T30 & Fujinon 27mm f/2.8

FXW: Do you use Film Simulation Recipes? If so, which ones do you use?

Tim Duncan: The film simulations were a huge selling point when looking for a camera. I first used one I found on YouTube called Muted, and I also tried his B&W settings—for the life of me I can’t remember the channel. Those were the two main ones that I had been using, but recently I tried the Nostalgic Print recipe (modified for the X-T30) from the Fuji X Weekly App and instantly loved it, and I can see this becoming a regular. I also had a crack with the Kodak Vision3 250D recipe and can see why it’s a favorite! After watching the film The Batman, I attempted to make my own recipe, but I’m not sure I really know what I’m doing (ha ha), so I definitely appreciate the Fujifilm camera community making recipes available. I’m very grateful for everyone who posts up their recipes on YouTube and explain how to set the camera up—it’s extremely helpful, especially for someone just starting out.

Photo by Tim Duncan — Fujifilm X-T30 & Fujinon 27mm f/2.8

FXW: What are your photographic interests? Describe your method for learning photography.

Tim Duncan: I feel like I’m only just really getting started, so up until now I have been sticking with the basics, focusing mainly on my compositions—placing interesting things in the right spots. I also set my camera to B&W for a good few months to learn about lighting and to understand contrast better. So I’m just trying lots of different things, and making many mistakes, to see what I like—for instance, I discovered that I’m not really interested in landscapes, but I love street photography. 

I also have zero interest in sitting down and editing photos. Everything I shared today is straight from my camera—I like the challenge of trying to get it right when I take the photo. I love that, on the Fuji, I can see exactly what I’m taking because the screen and viewfinder match the film simulation settings. I do my best to get the framing correct, exposure, etc., and take the photo. That’s it! That’s the photo, and if it’s good, it’s good; if it’s bad, it’s bad. I’d really like to encourage everyone to get out there and make as many mistakes as possible, and don’t be afraid to learn from them. 

Photo by Tim Duncan — Fujifilm X-T30 & Fujinon 27mm f/2.8

Thank you, Tim, for your willingness and openness to do this interview, and for all of your time!

Find (and follow) Tim Duncan on TikTok, Instagram, Facebook, and YouTube!

The photographs in this article are © Tim Duncan

Fujifilm X-Trans III + X-T3/X-T30 Film Simulation Recipe: Melancholy Blue

Pops of Pink – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-H1 – “Melancholy Blue”

For this Film Simulation Recipe I wanted to combine the beautiful blues of the new Pacific Blues recipe with the dark moodiness of the Vintage Agfacolor recipe. The result is a slightly melancholic aesthetic that can also produce dramatic results in certain circumstances. It’s great for daylight photography—delivering interesting (yet quite dissimilar) results in both overcast and bright sunlight conditions, including Low Key photography—and it also seems like a good option for some artificial light situations. Despite its versatility, it’s not a recipe that everyone will love; however, I know that a few of you will really appreciate it.

Unless your camera is an X-Pro3 or newer, you cannot save a white balance shift with your C1-C7 custom presets; however, your camera will remember one shift per white balance type, so if each C1-C7 recipe uses a different white balance type, you won’t have to remember to change the shift when you change recipes. There aren’t very many recipes that use the Incandescent White Balance, but now you have another recipe option if you are using this method.

Enlightened Nature – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T30 – “Melancholy Blue”

This “Melancholy Blue” Film Simulation Recipe is intended for Fujifilm X-Trans III cameras, plus the X-T3 and X-T30. I used it on my Fujifilm X-H1 and X-T30, and it did well on both. For newer X-Trans IV cameras, set Color Chrome FX Blue to Off, Clarity to 0, and Grain size to… either Small or Large, you’ll have to decide which you prefer.

Classic Chrome
Dynamic Range: DR200
Highlight: +3
Shadow: -1
Color: -2
Noise Reduction: -4
Sharpness: -1
Grain Effect: Weak
Color Chrome Effect: Off/NA
White Balance: Incandescent, +4 Red & -9 Blue
ISO: Auto up to ISO 6400

Exposure Compensation: -1/3 to -1 (typically)

Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs captured using this “Melancholy Blue” Film Simulation Recipe on my Fujifilm X-T30 & Fujifilm X-H1 cameras:

Prickly Fruit – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-H1
Yellow on Top – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-H1
Dark Saguaro – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-H1
Buddies – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-H1
Lights Along A Wall – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T30
Backyard Blooms – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-H1
Backlit Trumpets – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-H1
Twin Blooms – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T30
Climbing Trumpets – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T30
Bougainvillea Branch – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-H1
Block Wall Shadow – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-H1
Does Not Stop – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-H1
Roof Lines – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T30

Find this Film Simulation Recipe and over 200 more on the Fuji X Weekly App!

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Additional Thoughts on the Fujifilm X-T30 II (& X-T3 WW)

Fujifilm officially announced the X-T30 II today. This “new” camera is just like the “old” camera (including the X-T30 nameplate on the front… it says “X-T30” and not “X-T30 II”), except for a few key things. The rear screen is higher resolution. The camera has some additional built-in memory. It has (basically) the same firmware as the X-T4, X-S10, and X-E4. Otherwise, the two models are identical.

In my article Thoughts on the Upcoming Fujifilm X-T30 II I basically blasted Fujifilm for not offering a firmware update to the X-T30, but selling that firmware update as a “new” camera. I also stated:

It is possible that the X-T30 doesn’t have the internal memory, processing power, or heat dispersion capacity to receive this firmware update. It is possible that there is a hardware limitation that prevents it.

It seems that “internal memory” was indeed an issue, although I believe that the memory issue has more to do with the video side of things than still pictures. That’s just my opinion, not anything I have any evidence for. So the X-T30 II firmware can’t just be uploaded onto the X-T30, but a scaled down version, perhaps without the improved video features, certain could, and definitely should! It’s long, long overdue.

Fujifilm, if you happen to read this, please visit the comments section of my previous article. These are your customers, and those are their opinions.

The X-T30 II will be available on October 21, and if you have been thinking about getting an X-T30, you are better off waiting until October and buying the X-T30 II. I assume that the “original” X-T30 will be discontinued and discounted around that time, so perhaps a good deal on that model will be coming soon.

Also announced was the X-T3 WW, which is an X-T3 without a battery charger, and a $100 cheaper price-tag. The X-T3 and X-T3 WW are 100% identical. If you don’t need a battery charger, this might be a good option to save a little money.

Thoughts on the Upcoming Fujifilm X-T30 II

I told you a couple weeks ago that Fujifilm was going to release one more X-series camera before the end of the year, and I speculated what it might be. Fujirumors has let the cat out of the bag, and now we know it will be the X-T30 II, which will be an X-T30 but with “firmware on steroids.” I have a lot of thoughts (and emotions) on this, which I’ll share below.

First, I do not think this is the smartest move by Fujifilm. Last year I said, “If Fujifilm were to update the firmware on the X-T3 and X-T30 to breathe new excitement into these models, these cameras could still be sold for another two years easily.” Some people are looking for an excuse to upgrade from the X-T10 or X-T20 (and maybe a few other models), and whether the camera is the X-T30 II or an X-T30 with a major firmware update doesn’t matter to them. They’ll buy either. Those with an X-T30 aren’t likely to upgrade to the X-T30 II (I know I won’t).

All this does to X-T30 owners is make unhappy customers. I know that Fujifilm has no obligation to offer firmware updates. I was very happy with the my X-T30 when I bought it almost two-and-a-half years ago, and I’m still happy with it. But when a company does a certain practice (such as Kaizen firmware updates) for so long, it becomes expected. It’s not only expected that Fujifilm would do this, it makes sense for them to do so, as it creates happy customers, which means they’re more likely to be repeat customers and even unofficial brand ambassadors. Offering a major Kaizen firmware update to the X-T30 would thrill X-T30 owners and make them very happy customers (a.k.a. repeat customers who tell their friends how awesome Fujifilm cameras are), and it would breathe new life of excitement into the X-T30, increasing sales from those looking to upgrade from older models. It’s a win-win!

Instead, X-T30 owners will have to shell out $900 (or whatever the X-T30 II will cost) to get the firmware update that they’ve been hoping for. They won’t—I won’t, anyway. It seems like a greedy move. Fujifilm painted themselves with a seemingly negative light. They did it to themselves, I’m just pointing out the obvious that everyone sees.

That is, if indeed the X-T30 II is an X-T30 with nothing more than a firmware update. It is possible that the X-T30 doesn’t have the internal memory, processing power, or heat dispersion capacity to receive this firmware update. It is possible that there is a hardware limitation that prevents it. Maybe Fujifilm was attempting to do this firmware update when they realized they couldn’t, and thus the X-T30 II was born. I have no idea if this is the case or not. Emotionally I hope it is (because it means that Fujifilm isn’t driven by mere greed). Logically I hope it is not (because it means that a firmware update is still possible for the X-T30, although that seems unlikely at this point). Internally the X-T30 II might not be 100% identical to the X-T30—it’s impossible to know right now, but either way there’s a negative aspect to it for Fujifilm customers.

The X-T30 II is actually a much-needed camera in the Fujifilm lineup. Really, the X-T30 with a Kaizen firmware update is what was needed, but since that’s apparently not happening, X-T30 II will serve as a stop-gap between the X-T30 and future X-T40. You see, there are people who don’t want the X-S10 because of the PASM dial and non-retro design, who don’t want the X-E4 because it doesn’t have enough dials, switches and knobs, who don’t want an X-T4 because it is too big and expensive, and who don’t want the X-T30 because it doesn’t have all of the JPEG options that those newer cameras have. The X-T30 II will be the camera of choice for those people.

There’s also an implication here for the X-T3. Those who have an X-T3, like those with an X-T30, have been hoping for a Kaizen update for nearly two years. Since the X-T30 isn’t getting one, the X-T3 isn’t likely to get one, either. Want a firmware update for the X-T30? Buy an X-T30 II! Want a firmware update for the X-T3? Buy an X-T4! That’s the message, unfortunately.

The Fujifilm X-T30 II will be announced on September 2, the same day that the Fujinon 33mm f/1.4 will be announced.

I don’t think that Fujifilm regularly reads this website. I don’t think they were even aware of Fuji X Weekly until a little over a year ago. I do believe that they have mixed feelings about this blog, because I often use a competitor’s brand name (Kodak, Kodachrome, Portra, etc.), which seems silly to me as Kodak hasn’t been a major player in photography in awhile, yet I bring them a lot of new customers due to the film simulation recipes. They also don’t like articles where I mention yet-to-be-announced products (such as this one). I don’t have a voice at the company, but I wish that I did because I do believe I have a pretty good pulse of their customers—thanks to you, the greatest community in all of photography! In the off chance that Fujifilm reads this article, I would like your opinions to be included. If you’d like Fujifilm to release a firmware update for the X-T30 and X-T3, let them know by commenting. They might not ever read your thoughts and ideas, but they might, so please let them know, and maybe—just maybe—it will make a difference.

See also: Additional Thoughts on the Fujifilm X-T30 II

Fujifilm X-Trans III + X-T3 & X-T30 Patron Early-Access Film Simulation Recipe: Kodacolor VR

Inside City Creek – Salt Lake City, UT – Fujifilm X-T30

This film simulation recipe was an experiment. I started out with my Fujicolor 100 Industrial recipe, but instead of using a cool White Balance with a warm White Balance Shift, I did the opposite: I used a warm White Balance with a cool shift. After many adjustments to various settings, this ended up not resembling the Fujicolor 100 Industrial recipe much at all, but it does have a great vintage print-film aesthetic that I really like.

I wasn’t sure at first which film this recipe most closely resembled (since it wasn’t intended to mimic any specific film), although it seemed to have some similarities to Kodacolor VR. I already have a Kodacolor recipe, which does a great job at mimicking Kodacolor VR; this recipe and that one look somewhat similar, but definitely different. Then I ran across some pictures that looked very similar to the ones you see in this article, and it turned out that they were shot on Kodacolor VR film that had expired. So I think this recipe, while it does resemble Kodacolor VR, as well as ColorPlus 200 (which is a direct descendant of that film), it most closely looks like Kodacolor VR that’s been stored a little past its expiration date. Of course, one film can have many different looks, depending on how it was shot, developed, scanned and/or printed, and (in this case) stored, so this recipe serves as a nice alternative to my original Kodacolor recipe.

Leaning Tower – Salt Lake City, UT – Fujifilm X-T30

The Fuji X Weekly app is free, yet becoming a Fuji X Weekly Patron unlocks the best app experience! One benefit of being a Patron is you get early access to some new film simulation recipes. These early-access recipes will eventually become available free to everyone in time, including this new one. In fact, many early-access recipes have already been publicly published on this blog and the app, so now everyone can use them. Patrons help support Fuji X Weekly and, really, without them there would be no app. So I want to give a special “thank you” to all of the Patrons!

This new Patron early-access recipe is compatible with Fujifilm X-Trans III and X-Trans IV cameras. For those with newer cameras, set Color Chrome FX Blue to Off, Clarity to 0 (or perhaps -2), and I’d suggest Grain size Large, but use Small if you prefer.

If you are a Fuji X Weekly Patron, it’s available to you right now on the app!

Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs captured using this “Kodacolor VR” film simulation recipe on my Fujifilm X-T30:

Summer Reeds – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Corner Through Leaves – Salt Lake City, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Stones & Glass Ceiling – Salt Lake City, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Glass – Salt Lake City, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Building a Building – Salt Lake City, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Small Spaces Between – Salt Lake City, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Twilight Telephone Poles – Salt Lake City, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Stoneground – Salt Lake City, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Goes for Gold – Salt Lake City, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Night Parking – Salt Lake City, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Doki Doki – Salt Lake City, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Escalators – Salt Lake City, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Downtown Buildings – Salt Lake City, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Coming Train – Salt Lake City, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Trax – Salt Lake City, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Waiting on the Platform – Salt Lake City, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Glass & Sky – Salt Lake City, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Tall Downtown Buildings – Salt Lake City, UT – Fujifilm X-T30

Find these film simulation recipes and many more on the Fuji X Weekly — Film Recipes App!

Help Fuji X Weekly

Nobody pays me to write the content found on fujixweekly.com. There’s a real cost to operating and maintaining this site, not to mention all the time that I pour into it. If you appreciated this article, please consider making a one-time gift contribution. Thank you!

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Fujifilm X-T3 & X-T30 Film Simulation Recipe: Kodak Portra 400 v2

Walking on a Bridge – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30 – “Kodak Portra 400 v2”

This film simulation recipe is a slight variation of my Kodak Portra 400 recipe. It came about after I made a Portra 400 v2 recipe for the newer X-Trans IV cameras, which was created after studying actual examples of the film provided to me by a reader. I wanted to create a similar modification for the X-T3 and X-T30, which became this recipe. One film can have many different looks, depending on how it’s shot, developed, and scanned and/or printed, so this isn’t necessarily a “better” recipe, just a slightly different take on recreating the film’s aesthetic. I really like this one, and I think you will, too!

Portra 400, which is a color negative film, was introduced by Kodak in 1998. It was redesign in 2006 and again in 2010. As the name implies, it’s intended for portrait photography, but can be used for many other types of photography. It’s similar to Portra 160, but with more contrast, saturation and grain. Believe it or not, ISO 400 was considered “high ISO” by many photographers back in the film days, and Portra 400 was one of the absolute best “high ISO” color films ever made. Interestingly, Kodak briefly made a black-and-white version of Portra 400!

Downtownscape – Salt Lake City, UT – Fujifilm X-T30 – “Kodak Portra 400 v2”

This isn’t exactly a brand-new recipe. It was published as a Patron early-access recipe on the Fuji X Weekly App back on December 1st, so Patrons have had access to it for quite some time. Now another early-access recipe has replaced it, so this one is available to everyone! If you are a Fuji X Weekly Patron, be sure to check out the new early-access recipe in the app.

Classic Chrome
Dynamic Range: DR-Auto
Highlight: -1
Shadow: -1
Color: +2
Noise Reduction: -4
Sharpening: -2
Grain Effect: Strong
Color Chrome Effect: Strong
White Balance: Daylight, +2 Red & -6 Blue
ISO: Auto, up to ISO 6400
Exposure Compensation: +2/3 to +1 (typically)

Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs using this “Kodak Portra 400 v2” film simulation recipe on my Fujifilm X-T30:

Blackberry Forest Evening – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Three Backlit Leaves – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Tiny Red Berries – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Broken and Boarded – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Window to the City – Salt Lake City, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Lululemon – Salt Lake City, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Two Tall Buildings – Salt Lake City, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Hotel – Salt Lake City, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Two Cranes – Salt Lake City, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
A Downtown Cityscape – Salt Lake City, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Moffatt Ct. – Salt Lake City, UT – Fujifilm X-T30

Find these film simulation recipes and many more on the Fuji X Weekly — Film Recipes App!

Help Fuji X Weekly

Nobody pays me to write the content found on fujixweekly.com. There’s a real cost to operating and maintaining this site, not to mention all the time that I pour into it. If you appreciated this article, please consider making a one-time gift contribution. Thank you!

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7 New Fujicolor Pro 400H Film Simulation Recipes!

Pink Roses – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30 – “Fujicolor Pro 400H Box Speed”

In my last post, entitled A Different Approach, I shared Anders Lindborg‘s new take on film simulation recipes, which included seven different Fujicolor Pro 160NS recipes that he invented. This is Part 2 of that article. Below you’ll find another seven recipes, this time for Fujicolor Pro 400H! If you haven’t read the first post, you’ll want to do that now, because this will make a lot more sense if you have that prerequisite understanding.

If you don’t want to take the time to read it (or if you’ve already forgotten), here’s a quick summery. Anders’ approach is to have a good base recipe that works well in most circumstances, but also have subtle variations of that recipe, that mimic pushed and pulled film, for when the conditions require either less contrast (pulled) or more contrast (pushed). You can use all seven Custom Presets in the Q Menu to save each of these recipes if you want, or just save the base recipe (called “Box Speed”) and adjust to the various variations on-the-fly, or save the base setting and have the variations programmed into X RAW Studio. Also, by design these recipes will work with any film simulation, even though they call for PRO Neg. Hi.

Like the 160NS recipe, I’m only including the “Box Speed” version in the Fuji X Weekly app, and I encourage you to use the Notes section under the recipe to store the pushed and pulled variations. These seven Fujicolor Pro 400H recipes are compatible with the Fujifilm X-T3 and X-T30 cameras. If you have a newer X-Trans IV camera (X-Pro3, X100V, X-T4, X-S10 and X-E4), Anders recommends setting Clarity to -3 and Grain to Weak & Large. If you have an X-Trans III camera, ignore Color Chrome Effect; the results will be slightly different, but it will still produce good results. For Pushed +3 and Pushed +4, feel free to try Grain Strong.

This recipe wasn’t intended to mimic Fujicolor Pro 400H film, but it does resemble it fairly well. A lot of people like to overexpose real 400H film to get a pastel look; unfortunately, this recipe won’t achieve that particular aesthetic (but look here and here). Anders created this recipe by modifying his Pro 160NS settings; I made a couple of small modifications to it, but mostly these settings are created by him. Thank you, Anders, for creating these recipes and allowing me to share them!

Fujicolor Pro 400H Box Speed

Pops of Red – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30

PRO Neg. Hi
Dynamic Range: DR400
Highlight: 0
Shadow: 0
Color: +1
Color Chrome Effect: Strong
Grain: Weak
Noise Reduction: -4
Sharpness: -3
White Balance: Daylight, +1 Red & -3 Blue
ISO: Auto up to ISO 6400
Exposure Compensation: 0 to +2/3 (typically)

Free Pie – South Ogden, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Birthday Girl Coloring – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Shelf Plant – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30

Fujicolor Pro 400H Pulled -1

Snail – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30

PRO Neg. Hi
Dynamic Range: DR400
Highlight: -1
Shadow: -1
Color: +1
Color Chrome Effect: Strong
Grain: Weak
Noise Reduction: -4
Sharpness: -3
White Balance: Daylight, +1 Red & -3 Blue
ISO: Auto up to ISO 6400
Exposure Compensation: 0 to +2/3 (typically)

If you are adding this recipe to the Notes in the app, consider using this abbreviation: Pulled -1: HL & SH -1.

Green Aspen Leaves – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Tank Cars – Uintah, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Yellow Cat – Layton, UT – Fujifilm X-T30

Fujicolor Pro 400H Pulled -2

Hazy Mountain – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30

PRO Neg. Hi
Dynamic Range: DR400
Highlight: -2
Shadow: -1
Color: 0
Color Chrome Effect: Strong
Grain: Weak
Noise Reduction: -4
Sharpness: -3
White Balance: Daylight, +1 Red & -3 Blue
ISO: Auto up to ISO 6400
Exposure Compensation: 0 to +1 (typically)

If you are adding this recipe to the Notes in the app, consider using this abbreviation: Pulled -2: HL -2, SH -1, CLR 0.

Box Cars – Uintah, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Suburban Sunset – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Hazy Tree – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30

Fujicolor Pro 400H Pushed +1

Yucca Leaves – Uintah, UT – Fujifilm X-T30

PRO Neg. Hi
Dynamic Range: DR400
Highlight: +1
Shadow: 0
Color: +1
Color Chrome Effect: Strong
Grain: Weak
Noise Reduction: -4
Sharpness: -3
White Balance: Daylight, +1 Red & -3 Blue
ISO: Auto up to ISO 6400
Exposure Compensation: 0 to +2/3 (typically)

If you are adding this recipe to the Notes in the app, consider using this abbreviation: Pushed +1: HL +1.

Red Tree – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Tree & Dark Clouds – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
David Baldwin – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30

Fujicolor Pro 400H Pushed +2

Wood Stripes – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30

PRO Neg. Hi
Dynamic Range: DR400
Highlight: +2
Shadow: 0
Color: +2
Color Chrome Effect: Strong
Grain: Weak
Noise Reduction: -4
Sharpness: -3
White Balance: Daylight, +1 Red & -3 Blue
ISO: Auto up to ISO 6400
Exposure Compensation: -1/3 to +2/3 (typically)

If you are adding this recipe to the Notes in the app, consider using this abbreviation: Pushed +2: HL +2, CLR +2.

Mountain Biking – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Radar Mountain – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Bloomin’ Onion – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30

Fujicolor Pro 400H Pushed +3

Three Artificial Plants – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30

PRO Neg. Hi
Dynamic Range: DR400
Highlight: +2
Shadow: +1
Color: +3
Color Chrome Effect: Strong
Grain: Weak
Noise Reduction: -4
Sharpness: -3
White Balance: Daylight, +1 Red & -3 Blue
ISO: Auto up to ISO 6400
Exposure Compensation: -1/3 to +2/3 (typically)

If you are adding this recipe to the Notes in the app, consider using this abbreviation: Pushed +3: HL +2, SH +1, CLR +3.

Berry Bush Leaves #1 – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Berry Bush Leaves #2 – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Sky Leaves – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30

Fujicolor Pro 400H Pushed +4

Old Phone – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30

PRO Neg. Hi
Dynamic Range: DR400
Highlight: +3
Shadow: +2
Color: +4
Color Chrome Effect: Strong
Grain: Weak
Noise Reduction: -4
Sharpness: -4
White Balance: Daylight, +1 Red & -3 Blue
ISO: Auto up to ISO 6400
Exposure Compensation: -1/3 to +2/3 (typically)

If you are adding this recipe to the Notes in the app, consider using this abbreviation: Pushed +4: HL +3, SH +2, CLR +4, SHARP -4.

Berry Bush Leaves #3 – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Green – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Landscape Leaves – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30

Below are examples of using the Fujicolor Pro 160NS Box Speed recipe using other film simulations. You can do this with all of the pull and push variants, too, although I didn’t supply any examples of those because this article is already very long.

PRO Neg. Hi “Box Speed”
Provia “Box Speed”
Velvia “Box Speed”
Astia “Box Speed”
Classic Chrome “Box Speed”
PRO Neg. Std “Box Speed”
Eterna “Box Speed”
Acros “Box Speed”
Monochrome “Box Speed”

Find this film simulation recipe on the Fuji X Weekly — Film Recipes App!

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Fujifilm X-Trans III + X-T30 & X-T3 Film Simulation Recipe: Chrome Bypass

Don’t Walk Under Falling Bicycles – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30 – “Chrome Bypass”

There are a number of X-Trans IV film simulation recipes that I’ve had multiple requests to create versions for that are compatible with X-Trans III and X-T3 and X-T30 cameras. LomoChrome Metropolis and Bleach Bypass are two that are commonly requested. These recipes require JPEG settings that don’t exist on the “older” cameras, including the Classic Negative or Eterna Bleach Bypass film simulations. I knew it would be impossible to recreate those recipes for X-Trans III and the X-T3 and X-T30 cameras, but I wanted to get as close as I could. After much experimenting, I came up with some settings that are sometimes similar to the LomoChrome Metropolis recipe and are sometimes similar to the Bleach Bypass recipe, and sometimes not like either.

What the LomoChrome Metropolis and the Bleach Bypass recipes have in common are that they’re both high in contrast and low in color saturation. There are some other similarities between them, but there’s plenty that’s different, too. This recipe with certain subjects and in certain light situations can resemble one or the other, or neither. It’s as close as I could get. If you like the LomoChrome Metropolis and Bleach Bypass recipes, this is your best bet for X-Trans III and X-T3 and X-T30 cameras (aside from doing double-exposures). While it’s not as “perfect” as I was hoping to achieve, I think it’s a pretty good recipe for capturing dramatic pictures. It’s kind of (but not really) the low saturation version of Dramatic Classic Chrome.

1100 Stop – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30 – “Chrome Bypass”

Because these settings resemble both the LomoChrome Metropolis and the Bleach Bypass film simulation recipes, I decided to name this recipe Chrome Bypass, taking a little from each name. I don’t currently have access to an X-Trans III camera, so I don’t have any samples captured with a Fujifilm X-Trans III camera, but it should look very similar.

PRO Neg. Std
Dynamic Range: DR200
Highlight: +3
Shadow: +4
Color: -4
Color Chrome Effect: Off or N/A
Sharpness: -1
Noise Reduction: -4
Grain Effect: Strong
White Balance: Auto, +2 Red & -5 Blue
ISO: Auto up to ISO 6400
Exposure Compensation: 0 to +2/3 (typically)

Sample photographs, all camera-made JPEGs, captured with a Fujifilm X-T30 using this “Chrome Bypass” film simulation recipe:

Mountain Teasels – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Cloudy Branches – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Summer Tree – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Country Fence & Old Tires – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Tulip Pot – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Colorful Tulips – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Handy Dandy Grill – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Little Bit of Green – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Thrown Pillow – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Instax Table – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30

Find this film simulation recipe on the Fuji X Weekly — Film Recipes App!

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Fujifilm X-T30 (X-Trans IV) Film Simulation Recipe: Velvia v2

Sunset Cyclists – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30 – “Velvia v2”

I’ve been wanting to create a new Velvia recipe for awhile now. The previous version is bold, but sometimes produces too much contrast. This recipe is actually a little closer to my original Velvia recipe, but with even less contrast yet with more saturation. This Velvia v2 recipe doesn’t closely mimic any specific version of Velvia film, yet it still retains an overall Velvia-like aesthetic.

Velvia is a high-saturation, low-ISO color reversal (slide) film introduced in 1990. I’ve shot many rolls of it, mostly the original ISO 50 version, but also the “new” Velvia 50, Velvia 100F and Velvia 100 emulsions. Of those films, this recipe is probably closest to Velvia 100, but not exactly like it.

Brown Reflection – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30 – “Velvia v2”

This film simulation recipe is intended for the Fujifilm X-T30 and X-T3 cameras. If you have “newer” X-Trans IV cameras, you might consider Color Chrome Effect Blue set to Weak, Grain set to Weak and Small, and Clarity set to +2 perhaps. If you have an X-Trans III camera, which doesn’t have Color Chrome Effect, you can still use this recipe, but the results will be slightly different. Those with GFX cameras can also use this recipe, and it will look very close but not exactly the same.

Velvia
Dynamic Range: DR200
Highlight: -1
Shadow: -1
Color: +4
Noise Reduction: -4
Sharpening: 0
Grain Effect: Weak
Color Chrome Effect: Strong
White Balance: Auto, 0 Red & 0 Blue
ISO: Auto up to ISO 6400
Exposure Compensation: +1/3 to +1 (typically)

Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs, captured using a Fujifilm X-T30 with this Velvia v2 film simulation recipe:

March Reeds – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Reeds in Evening Light – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Water Under The Bridge – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Muddy Water – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Ducks in the Shallow Water – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Flying Seagull – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Evening Gull – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Utah Reeds – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Evening Cloud Over The Ridge – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Grass, Pond & Mud – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Sunset Puddle – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Marsh Sunset – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30

Find this recipe on the Fuji X Weekly app!

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Help Fuji X Weekly

Nobody pays me to write the content found on fujixweekly.com. There’s a real cost to operating and maintaining this site, not to mention all the time that I pour into it. If you appreciated this article, please consider making a one-time gift contribution. Thank you!

$2.00