This is a simple update to the Superia Xtra 400 Film Simulation Recipe, which was originally made for X-Trans IV cameras. I discovered that a slight tweak is needed for X-Trans V models, because the new sensor renders blues just a little deeper on some film simulations, including Classic Negative. For this recipe, simply setting Color Chrome FX Blue from Strong to Weak makes it compatible with (as of this writing) the Fujifilm X-T5, X-H2, and X-H2S.
Thomas Schwab created the Superia Xtra 400 recipe by capturing a roll of actual Superia Xtra 400 film while also capturing identical exposures with his Fujifilm cameras, then, using X RAW Studio, he worked on the settings until he found a match. As you can imagine, he put a lot of time and effort into creating it! He shared with me some of his side-by-side pictures—comparing the film with his recipe—and it was tough to figure out which was which—they looked so close! Also, just recently another photographer shot a roll of Superia Xtra 400 film and used the Superia Xtra 400 recipe on his Fujifilm camera, and he shared with me the similar results he got between the two. Amazing! Of course, with film, so much depends on how it’s shot, developed, and scanned or printed, and the aesthetic of one emulsion can vary significantly.
Fujifilm introduced Superia Xtra 400, a consumer-grade color negative film, in 1998, replacing Super G Plus 400. This film has been updated a couple of times, first in 2003 and again in 2006. It’s been widely used, thanks to its low cost and versatility. I’ve shot several rolls of this film over the years. This recipe is for Fujifilm X-Trans V cameras. Those with newer GFX models can use it, too, although it will likely render slightly differently.
Film Simulation: Classic Negative
Grain Effect: Strong, Small
Color Chrome Effect: Off
Color Chrome FX Blue: Weak
White Balance: Auto, +3 Red & -5 Blue
Dynamic Range: DR400
Highlight: 0
Shadow: -1
Color: +4
Sharpness: -1
High ISO NR: -4
Clarity: -2
ISO: Auto, up to ISO 6400
Exposure Compensation: 0 to +1 (typically)
Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs using this “Superia Xtra 400” Film Simulation Recipe on my Fujifilm X-T5:
See also:
Fujifilm X-Trans V Film Simulation Recipes
Fujifilm X-Trans IV Film Simulation Recipes
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Wow, beautiful photos and one of the nicest looking recipes I’ve seen, yet. I’ve been trying out the new (to me) films sims on my XT5 as an alternate to the Classic Chrome recipes that make up the majority of my favorites.. this one’s a winner!
Awesome! So glad that you like it 😀
I’ve got the versions of this loaded into my X-T5 and X100V. I’m loving them. A really good colour simulation for anything outdoors. They’re good to go straight out of the camera, I make very few adjustments in post, if at all. Just maybe where I’ve under or over exposed slightly.
Awesome! Thanks for letting me know!
Maybe I’m delusional.
But it’s missing that “coldness” of superia.
The warms are TOO warm. Whereas superia, through the tons of shots I’ve taken, have a very cool look to them. With a slight magenta to the skin tones.
When i photograph things hit with sun with superia, the sun never comes out warm, always fairly cool.
This looks closer to a ultramax lovechild with superia.
Or am I just blind.
This Recipe was made by comparing photographs captured side-by-side with a film camera loaded with Superia Xtra 400 and a Fujifilm X camera. One film can produce many different looks depending on a host of factors, including how it was shot, developed, and scanned. In this case, if I remember correctly, the photographer overexposed the film by a stop. I don’t recall the details of the scanning, but I’m sure that played a role in the outcome, however it was handled. Interestingly enough, maybe 10 months ago or so, a photographer took some pictures using this Recipe (the X-Trans IV version, actually) and also took identical pictures with his film camera loaded with Superia Xtra 400 film, and they looked very similar to each other, nearly identical. So this Recipe can look very much like the film, but it just depends on how it was shot, developed, and scanned. With most films, results can vary extensively.
Hm, maybe I’m thinking about Fuji c200? Been a while since I shot actual superia 400. (2-3 years).
One of them is quite cool.
It definitely could be Superia 400 that you are thinking about. If you gave the same emulsion to 10 different photographers, you could potentially get 10 different looks from it, just depending on things like the lens used, the light shot it, the exposure rating, the brand of chemicals used for development, how old or used those chemicals are, the temperature and pH of the water, the paper printed on and/or scanner used, etc., etc., etc..
I’m very curious if this could be adapted to the X-Trans III sensor somehow? Ugh, really missing the Classic Negative and Nostalgic Negative sims, but the X-Trans IV and newer sensors are in very expensive bodies 🙁
It’s hard to get the Superia look without Classic Negative. You can get in a distant neighborhood with PRO Neg. Std or even Astia, but it will look pretty divergent from this Recipe.
Unfortunate. Guess I’ll have to mess around with Lightroom instead. Thank you anyways, love your recipes!
I’m loving this! One question though on my XT-5 DR400 not selectable with these settings, so just going with auto. Any idea why only 100/200 are selectable and not DR400?
It’s ISO dependent, so you’ve got to increase the ISO. These should help:
https://fujixweekly.com/2023/07/13/answers-to-the-10-most-common-fujifilm-how-to-questions/
https://fujifilm-dsc.com/en/manual/x-t5/menu_shooting/image_quality_setting/#dynamic_range
Hello. Thank you for your excellent work!
I have used this film simulation for the last few months along with many other sims from your website. I found myself switching back to Superia Xtra 400. It just resonates with me so well, and I found it to be by far the most universal film simulation from all what I tried so far.
From your experience, could you please recommend a sim (or several sims) that are as universal as Superia Xtra 400?
Reggie’s Portra, Reala Ace (the Classic Negative Recipe), Kodak Ultramax 400, Fujicolor Super HG v2.
This recipe appears to be extremely dark for me. In mid-day sunny conditions, I have to set my X100VI to 1/250ss, f2.2, ISO 400 in order to get appropriate lighting for mid and highlights, and shadows are almost black. Anything indoors is impossible to receive any light. I remember this happening with Pacific Blue as well. Is this expected or do I have an issue?
It’s hard to say what the specific shutter, aperture and ISO should be. In the olden days, we used the “Sunny 16” rule.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sunny_16_rule
Based on your calculations and description, I assume that you have the ND Filter activated, because it doesn’t make sense otherwise. For example, it should be more like 1/2000, f/8, ISO 400. I would deactivate the ND filter unless you just really need it.
Another note is that midday light is harsh, and you’re going to experience bright highlights and deep shadows. I would use the histogram to assist with making the exposure as bright as possible without clipping the highlights.
https://www.fujifilm-x.com/en-us/exposure-center/get-the-most-out-of-your-histogram/
That was my thinking exactly! I started my photography hobby on film, so I’m used to the sunny 16 rule, and setting speed around or a little overexposed for the film (or in this case for the sim), and by and large I use those for digital as well. Will check out the ND filter.