Cold Morning at the South Rim – Grand Canyon NP, AZ – Fujifilm X100V – Fujicolor C200 v2
The original Fujicolor C200 Film Simulation Recipe is great! This isn’t intended to replace that Recipe—there’s no need to replace it, since it’s excellent—but instead provide an alternative option for those looking for something slightly different. One film can produce many different looks, depending on a host of factors, including how it was shot, developed, and printed or scanned. In this case, a Fuji X Weekly reader wanted a Recipe that more closely matched his particular Fujicolor C200 scans. Oh, and it needed to be compatible with the Fujifilm X100V and X-Pro3, which the original version is not.
Fujifilm introduced Fujicolor C200 in 1990 as a low-budget, consumer-grade color negative film. I’ve shot a few rolls of it over the years, although it was never my go-to option. Fujifilm gave it a small refresh in 2017. Sadly, in late 2021, Fujifilm began selling rebranded Kodak Gold 200 as Fujicolor C200. Even though C200 is a cheap color film, it has a cult-like following, and many people enjoy its aesthetic and choose it over more expensive emulsions.
Bougainvillea Peeking over Wall – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X100V – Fujicolor C200 v2
This Fujicolor C200 v2 Film Simulation Recipe is an App Patron Early-Access Recipe. If you are a Fuji X Weekly App Patron, you have access to it right now. If not, no worries, as it will eventually be made available to everyone, once it is replaced by a new Early-Access Recipe. With the exception of the X-T3 and X-T30, it is fully compatible with X-Trans IV cameras: X-Pro3, X100V, X-T4, X-S10, X-E4, and X-T30 II. For fifth generation models, simply set Color Chrome FX Blue to Weak instead of Strong.
Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs using this Fujicolor C200 v2 Film Simulation Recipe on my Fujifilm X100V and Fujifilm X-E4:
Main Street – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Dim Light & Neon Reflections – Tempe, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Coffee Shop Christmas Tree – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Backlit Potted Palm – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Afternoon Jo – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Sitting on a Backyard Bench – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Swinging Seat – Litchfield Park, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Potted Blossoms – Litchfield Park, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Artificial Flowers – Litchfield Park, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
AC – Litchfield Park, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
The Grinch that Stole a Golf Cart – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Autumn Path – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Autumn Canopy – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Bird on a Cross – Litchfield Park, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Icy Morning at the Rim – Grand Canyon NP, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Canyon Between the Pines – Grand Canyon NP, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Morning Shadows – Grand Canyon NP, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Comparison:
Original Fujicolor C200 Film Simulation Recipe (Fujifilm X-E4)
This new Fujicolor C200 v2 Film Simulation Recipe (Fujifilm X-E4)
Find this Film Simulation Recipe and over 300 more on the Fuji X Weekly App! Consider becoming a Patron subscriber to unlock the best App experience and to support Fuji X Weekly.
Bell Tower – Litchfield Park, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4 – Vintage Print Recipe
This Film Simulation Recipe began when my wife suggested that I should try to emulate a certain look that she had found. I wasn’t successful, but in my efforts I discovered these settings, which I thought looked interesting nonetheless. They remind me of vintage color prints—not from any specific film or process, but just my “memory color” (as Fujifilm puts it) of some old prints that I’ve seen in the past. It has almost a classic magazine quality to it, or even a bit of a post-card resemblance. Whatever it may or may not look like, it definitely has a vintage-like aesthetic that some of you might really appreciate.
Most of these pictures were captured using manual vintage lenses, including—actually, mainly—a Helios 44-2. I also used a 5% CineBloom or 10% CineBloom filter with about half of them. I did this to help achieve an analog aesthetic. The use of vintage glass and diffusion filters aren’t required for this recipe, but you are certainly welcome to do so if you want—I think they help a little to take the digital edge off of the pictures.
This Vintage Print Film Simulation Recipe is compatible with the Fujifilm X-Pro3, X100V, X-T4, X-S10, X-E4, and X-T30 II cameras. For use on fifth-generation models, set Color Chrome FX Blue to Weak (instead of Strong), because those cameras render blue more deeply on certain film simulations. Those with newer GFX cameras can use it, too; however, it will render slightly differently. This was a Fuji X Weekly App Patron Early-Access Recipe, but has been replaced by a different Recipe, so now it’s available to everyone.
Film Simulation: Classic Negative Dynamic Range: DR200 Grain Effect: Strong, Large Color Chrome Effect: Strong Color Chrome FX Blue: Strong White Balance: Daylight, +3 Red & -6 Blue Highlight: +2 Shadow: -2 Color: -4 Sharpness: -4 High ISO NR: -4 Clarity: -4 ISO: Auto, up to ISO 6400 Exposure Compensation: -2/3 to +1/3 (typically)
Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs captured using this “Vintage Print” Film Simulation Recipe on my Fujifilm X-E4:
Pops of Bougainvillea Red – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Growing Bougainvillea – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Joshua at a Stucco Wall – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Big Storm Looming in the Background – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Lake, House – Litchfield Park, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Jon is Happy – Litchfield Park, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Labyrinth Church – Litchfield Park, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Saguaro & Dust – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Twin Saguaros – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Saguaro as Seen Through a Saguaro – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Teddy Bear Cholla – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Desert Spikes – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Desert Barrel – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Trumpets Down – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Bright Bougainvillea – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Find this Film Simulation Recipe and over 300 more on the Fuji X Weekly App! Consider becoming a Patron subscriber to unlock the best App experience and to support Fuji X Weekly.
The list of Film Simulation Recipes below are my “Essential 7” for X-Trans I cameras, which are the X-Pro1, X-E1, and X-M1 (the X-M1 doesn’t have the PRO Neg. Hi and PRO Neg. Std film sims, so it is a bit more limited; it doesn’t have C1-C7, either). If you are not sure which Recipes to program into your C1-C7 Custom Presets, these are my suggestions for you to begin with. These are the ones that you must try, in my opinion. You might love all of them, you might only appreciate some of them, or you might not like any of them. Each person has their own styles and tastes, and there’s no one single Recipe that’s universally loved by everyone (although a few seem close). Still, give these seven a try—keep the ones you like, and replace the ones that you don’t.
Arched Window – Ogden, UT – Fujifilm X-Pro1 – Kodachrome I
A couple of important side notes here. First, this list isn’t necessarily made up of versatile Recipes. Like film, most Film Simulation Recipes have specific use cases—such as sunny daylight—so not all of these option will be good for night photography, for example, or perhaps other situations. Also, X-Trans I models cannot save a White Balance Shift within the C1-C7 Custom Presets. You can only save one WB Shift per White Balance type, which means you’ll have to remember to adjust the WB Shift each time you change Recipes. Since X-Trans I was excluded from the Which Film Simulation Recipe, When? series, I decided to take WB Shift into account for this article, and choose Recipes with a variety of WB types. This will make the user experience more enjoyable, but it does exclude some Recipes that might be preferable over others, since I’m avoiding multiple Recipes with the same WB type. For the 7th Recipe, use Daylight/Fine instead of Auto; by doing so, you’ll still get a similar result, and, since the two Daylight WB Recipes share the same WB Shift, you’ll be good to go.
The Essential 7 Film Simulation Recipes to program into your X-Trans I camera first:
Find these Film Simulation Recipes and many more on the Fuji X Weekly App! Consider becoming a Patron subscriber to unlock the best App experience and to support Fuji X Weekly.
I had speculated that it would be called X100Z, but I was wrong. A lot of people thought it would be X100R, but that was also incorrect. Instead, Fujifilm took the boring route, and chose X100VI as the name. How very Sony of them, right?
Will people pronounce it X100-Vee-Eye, X100-Six, X100-The-Sixth, or X100-Mark-Six? I will call the camera X100-Vee-Eye personally; however, it’s not a very exciting name. I’m sure Fujifilm had a list of potential names on a dry-erase board at their Japan office, and they looked at that short list daily for months. After much consideration and deliberation, they chose the option they felt was the safest. Playing it safe is often riskier than being bold, and the potential reward is almost always smaller. Fujifilm should have gone with a striking name, something that rolls off the tongue and stirs the imagination. Something that grabs your attention and demands that you take a closer look. X100V did that, but X100VI does not. X100Z, X100R, X100X, X100G—names like that—stand out much more than X100 VI, X100 VII, X100 VIII, X100 IX, etc.; one set it exciting and imaginative and surprising, while the other is boring and clinical and routine.
The name is probably the least important aspect of the camera; however, a boring name does not give confidence to the rest of the model. If Fujifilm is unwilling to take a small risk with the name, what else about it are they playing safe? The original X100, which launched the entire X-series (note: the X-Pro1, which came out about a year-and-a-half later, was the first X-mount and first X-Trans), was a very daring product that took the camera industry by surprise. Since the release of the X100, Fujifilm has done a lot of risk-taking, and most often it has worked out really well for them. Nowadays it seems as though Fujifilm wants to evolve to become more like the Canikony brands, which too-often values caution and complacency over bold risks.
In any event, I’m sure that the X100VI will be an excellent camera, every bit as good as the X100V, and just a bit better. What will be different about it? Nothing is known at this point. My guess is that it will have the 40mp X-Trans V sensor and processor, as well as the latest JPEG options (maybe not Reala Ace; however, don’t worry, because I have a Film Simulation Recipe that mimics it), but otherwise will be 99% the same as the X100V. That’s only speculation, and as was demonstrated at the top of this article, my guesses are not always right. Fujifilm could very well give the X100-series a pretty significant refresh with the VI iteration, but if the name is any indication, it seems like they plan to play it as safe as they can this time around.
I just released a brand-new RitchieCam App update! If your iPhone didn’t automatically update the App, be sure to manually do it now. There are two new Filters, plus some improvement and feature changes that I believe you’ll appreciate, but I need to explanation some of it—I think it will all make a lot more sense afterwards.
First, the two new Filters: Slide Film and Negative Film! These are both only available to RitchieCam App Patrons, and are not unlocked in the free version.
Slide Film
Captured with the new Slide Film filter on RitchieCam with an iPhone 13.
The Slide Film Filter is reminiscent of color reversal (slide) film. Vibrant and contrasty—yet still versatile—with a touch of analog nostalgia. Set EV anywhere from 0 to -1 for best results.
Captured with the new Slide Film filter on RitchieCam with an iPhone 13.
Captured with the new Slide Film filter on RitchieCam with an iPhone 13.
Captured with the new Slide Film filter on RitchieCam with an iPhone 13.
Negative Film
Captured with the new Negative Film filter on RitchieCam with an iPhone 13.
The Negative Film Filter is bright, warm, and slightly faded, with some similarities to overexposed color negative film by Kodak. Great for sunny daylight situations. For a more faded and retro rendering, try reducing the EV between -0.6 and -1.3.
Captured with the new Negative Film filter on RitchieCam with an iPhone 13.
Captured with the new Negative Film filter on RitchieCam with an iPhone 13.
Captured with the new Negative Film filter on RitchieCam with an iPhone 13.
Next up is Favorites, which has been significantly revamped. Favorites is a Patron-only feature that improves the way you select Filters. You can Star as few or as many Filters as you’d like (including all of them), and arrange them in whatever order makes the most sense for you—providing you with a customizable experience. Whichever Filter is in the first slot is the one that the App will open with when in the regular view (with the tray of Filters).
One thing that’s new is Favorites will now stay open until you close it—even if you close RitchieCam entirely and relaunch, Favorites will still be open until you close it. The Filters (that you have added to Favorites) are activated by scrolling right or left, and the one in the center is what’s selected for use (if you’re not on iOS 17 or newer, you’ll have to tap to select… this might be a good opportunity to update the operating system). This is a more intuitive way to switch between filters, and makes Favorites quite useful for regular use. If you prefer the Filter tray, which gives you access to all of the filters, including the “i” information icon which provides some samples and a brief explanation, simply tap the Star icon to close Favorites. If you are a Patron, you have two different approaches to how you interact with and select the Filters; however, I anticipate that many of you will use Favorites quite often now, and the regular view less.
Another important note is that long-pressing on the Star icon opens the Favorites menu, which is where you choose the Filters that you wish to Favorite and organize them in whichever order you prefer. This is a quicker way to access the Favorites menu.
The Drag-to-Select Filter option, where you press-and-drag your finger across the screen to quickly scroll through the filters, can now be toggled on-and-off. By default it is set to Off. If you prefer this method, be sure to tap the Gear icon and enable Drag-to-Select Filter. This feature didn’t go away, but you must take this step in order to use it. For those who have had issues inadvertently switching the filter when attempting to tap-to-focus, you might consider leaving it Off.
A couple changes were made to Filter Intensity. First, the icon looks a little different (it’s now three parallel lines, where the top line is longer and the bottom line is shorter). RitchieCam will now remember the Intensity you selected for each Filter (previously, it was a global adjustment). Additionally, the icon gives you visual feedback as to the level of intensity you have selected for that Filter (this is pretty slick, in my opinion).
Last but certainly not least, in the Photos view (where you review the pictures you’ve captured), you can now tap or pinch to zoom in and out. This will make culling a lot easier.
The list of Film Simulation Recipes below are my “Essential 7” for X-Trans II cameras, which are the X100S, X100T, X-T1, X-T10, X-E2, X-E2s, X70, X20, X30, XQ1, and XQ2. A few of the older models—X100S, X20, and XQ1—don’t have Classic Chrome, so I have a set of Recipes at the bottom that exclude the Classic Chrome film simulation. To complicate it more, I don’t believe that either of the XQ models have PRO Neg. Hi or PRO Neg. Std (but they also don’t have C1-C7). If you are not sure which Recipes to program into your C1-C7 Custom Presets, these are my suggestions for you to begin with. These are the ones that you must try, in my opinion. You might love all of them, you might only appreciate some of them, or you might not like any of them. Each person has their own styles and tastes, and there’s no one single Recipe that’s universally loved by everyone (although a few seem close). Still, give these seven a try—keep the ones you like, and replace the ones that you don’t.
A couple of important side notes here. First, this list isn’t necessarily made up of versatile Recipes. Like film, most Film Simulation Recipes have specific use cases—such as sunny daylight—so not all of these option will be good for night photography, for example, or perhaps other situations. Be sure to visit my Which Film Simulation Recipe, When?article for a more comprehensive group of options for various use cases. Also, X-Trans II models cannot save a White Balance Shift within the C1-C7 Custom Presets. You can only save one WB Shift per White Balance type, which means you’ll have to remember to adjust the WB Shift each time you change Recipes. The suggestions below do not take this into account; however, the Which Film Simulation Recipe, When? article does, so be sure to read it.
The Essential 7 Film Simulation Recipes to program into your X-Trans II camera first:
Find these Film Simulation Recipes and many more on the Fuji X Weekly App! Consider becoming a Patron subscriber to unlock the best App experience and to support Fuji X Weekly.
The list of Film Simulation Recipes below are my “Essential 7” for X-Trans III cameras, which are the X-Pro2, X100F, X-T2, X-T20, X-E3, and X-H1. If you are not sure which Recipes to program into your C1-C7 Custom Presets, these are my suggestions for you to begin with. These are the ones that you must try, in my opinion. You might love all of them, you might only appreciate some of them, or you might not like any of them. Each person has their own styles and tastes, and there’s no one single Recipe that’s universally loved by everyone (although a few seem close). Still, give these seven a try—keep the ones you like, and replace the ones that you don’t.
Follow the Bird to Salt Lake – Salt Lake City, UT – Fujifilm X-H1 – Cross Process
A couple of important side notes here. First, this list isn’t necessarily made up of versatile Recipes. Like film, most Film Simulation Recipes have specific use cases—such as sunny daylight—so not all of these option will be good for night photography, for example, or perhaps other situations. Be sure to visit my Which Film Simulation Recipe, When?article for a more comprehensive group of options for various use cases. Also, X-Trans III models cannot save a White Balance Shift within the C1-C7 Custom Presets. You can only save one WB Shift per White Balance type, which means you’ll have to remember to adjust the WB Shift each time you change Recipes. The suggestions below do not take this into account; however, the Which Film Simulation Recipe, When? article does, so be sure to read it.
The Essential 7 Film Simulation Recipes to program into your X-Trans III camera first:
Find these Film Simulation Recipes and many more on the Fuji X Weekly App! Consider becoming a Patron subscriber to unlock the best App experience and to support Fuji X Weekly.
The list of Film Simulation Recipes below are my “Essential 7” for the X-T3 and X-T30. Fujifilm left these two models on an island (didn’t give them the same JPEG options as the other X-Trans IV models), so that’s why they get their own article. If you are not sure which Recipes to program into your C1-C7 Custom Presets, these are my suggestions for you to begin with. These are the ones that you must try, in my opinion. You might love all of them, you might only appreciate some of them, or you might not like any of them. Each person has their own styles and tastes, and there’s no one single Recipe that’s universally loved by everyone (although a few seem close). Still, give these seven a try—keep the ones you like, and replace the ones that you don’t.
Evening at Monument Valley – Monument Valley, AZ – Fujifilm X-T30 – Velvia
A couple of important side notes here. First, this list isn’t necessarily made up of versatile Recipes. Like film, most Film Simulation Recipes have specific use cases—such as sunny daylight—so not all of these option will be good for night photography, for example, or perhaps other situations. Be sure to visit my Which Film Simulation Recipe, When?article for a more comprehensive group of options for various use cases. Also, the X-T3 and X-T30 cannot save a White Balance Shift within the C1-C7 Custom Presets. You can only save one WB Shift per White Balance type, which means you’ll have to remember to adjust the WB Shift each time you change Recipes. The suggestions below do not take this into account; however, the Which Film Simulation Recipe, When? article does, so be sure to read it.
The Essential 7 Film Simulation Recipes to program into your X-T3 or X-T30 camera first:
Find these Film Simulation Recipes and many more on the Fuji X Weekly App! Consider becoming a Patron subscriber to unlock the best App experience and to support Fuji X Weekly.
The list of Film Simulation Recipes below are my “Essential 7” for X-Trans IV cameras (except for the X-T3 and X-T30, which will be found in Part 3). If you are not sure which Recipes to program into your C1-C7 Custom Presets, these are my suggestions for you to begin with. These are the ones that you must try, in my opinion. You might love all of them, you might only appreciate some of them, or you might not like any of them. Each person has their own styles and tastes, and there’s no one single Recipe that’s universally loved by everyone (although a few seem close). Still, give these seven a try—keep the ones you like, and replace the ones that you don’t.
An important side note here: this list isn’t necessarily made up of versatile Recipes. Like film, most Film Simulation Recipes have specific use cases—such as sunny daylight—so not all of these option will be good for night photography, for example, or perhaps other situations. Be sure to visit my Which Film Simulation Recipe, When?article (this one, too) for a more comprehensive group of options for various use cases.
This list is for X-Trans IV cameras (except for the X-T3 & X-T30), which include the Fujifilm X-Pro3, X100V, X-T4, X-S10, X-E4, and X-T30 II. The X-S20’s exclusion is a bit controversial because it has an X-Trans IV sensor paired with the X-Trans V processor, but since it seems to render more similar to X-Trans V than X-Trans IV, and has the X-Trans V JPEG options, it’s not in this list, but with the X-Trans V cameras.
The Essential 7 Film Simulation Recipes to program into your X-Trans IV camera first:
Find these Film Simulation Recipes and many more on the Fuji X Weekly App! Consider becoming a Patron subscriber to unlock the best App experience and to support Fuji X Weekly.
I don’t know about you, but I received several Amazon gift cards for Christmas. You might want to use those gift cards to purchase some photography gear, but perhaps you are not sure what to buy. So—if you are stuck—let me offer you some ideas. Since this is a Fujifilm blog, these items are mostly geared towards Fujifilm photographers.
This post contains affiliate links, and if you make a purchase using my links I’ll be compensated a small amount for it.
$25
If your Amazon gift card is $25, here are some camera things you can buy:
This is Part 1 of what will be a series of articles on this topic. I actually attempted to do this back in the summer, but got sidetracked, and never made it beyond the first post. So those with an X-Trans V camera get a little bonus. My hope is to make it all the way through X-Trans I, so if you have an older model, don’t worry—we’ll get to your camera soon.
The list of Film Simulation Recipes below are my “Essential 7” for X-Trans V cameras. If you are not sure which Recipes to program into your C1-C7 Custom Presets, these are my suggestions for you to begin with. These are the ones that you must try, in my opinion. You might love all of them, you might only appreciate some of them, or you might not like any of them. Each person has their own styles and tastes, and there’s no one single Recipe that’s universally loved by everyone (although a few seem close). Still, give these seven a try—keep the ones you like, and replace the ones that you don’t.
Left the Lights On – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – Fluorescent Night
An important side note here: this list isn’t necessarily made up of versatile Recipes. Like film, most Film Simulation Recipes have specific use cases, such as sunny daylight, so not all of these option will be good for night photography, for example, or perhaps other situations. Be sure to visit my Which Film Simulation Recipe, When?for a more comprehensive list of options for various use cases.
This list is specifically for X-Trans V cameras, which (as of this writing) are the Fujifilm X-H2s, X-H2, X-T5, and X-S20. The X-S20 is a bit controversial to be included here because it has an X-Trans IV sensor paired with the X-Trans V processor, but since it seems to render more similar to X-Trans V than X-Trans IV, and has the X-Trans V JPEG options, it is included in this list. Also, use this list for the upcoming X100V successor, once it comes out (in February or March, most likely). Next up in this series is X-Trans IV.
The Essential 7 Film Simulation Recipes to program into your X-Trans V camera first:
Find these Film Simulation Recipes and many more on the Fuji X Weekly App! Consider becoming a Patron subscriber to unlock the best App experience and to support Fuji X Weekly.
Yesterday, MPB (“an online platform for used photography and videography equipment”) published an article entitled How to Install and Use Fujifilm Recipes, which was largely written by Michael Schulz. I knew that this story was in the works because MPB had reached out to me several weeks ago just to make sure that it was ok to mention Fuji X Weekly in an upcoming piece; however, I only found out that it was published because I noticed a number of clicks to this website from theirs within today’s daily stats. What I love about the MPB article are the lovely photographs by Michael captured with his Fujifilm X100V, using mostly the Pacific Blues, Kodak Gold 200 (or is it this one?), and Kodak Portra 400 v2 (maybe Vibrant Arizona, too…) Film Simulation Recipes. It’s a real testament to what can be done straight-out-of-camera with Fujifilm models.
I was thinking today: why are camera stores talking about Fuji X Weekly and Film Simulation Recipes? It would be more obviously understood if I had merchandise for sale in their stores or on their websites, but I don’t. What’s in it for them? I think the answer is pretty simple: Fuji X Weekly Recipes sell Fujifilm cameras.
Golden Light in Abandoned House – North Salt Lake, UT – Fujifilm X100V – Fujicolor Reala 100 Recipe
Recipes are one of the reasons why the X100V has been so hard to find for over a year now. Social media influencers began saying that the X100V’s pictures “mimic film” and require “zero editing”—next thing you know they’re out of stock everywhere. With a little research I found out that these influencers were using my Film Simulation Recipes.
If you have a camera store and want to move your Fujifilm inventory, the best way is to point out to customers that the straight-out-of-camera pictures look so darn good, and post-editing isn’t necessary. Specifically, Film Simulation Recipes make it easy to get great-looking pictures without fuss, which can make photography more accessible and enjoyable, saving tons of time and frustration. There’s even an app! I think Fujifilm themselves have overall done a fairly poor job of communicating this; it’s been influencers and camera stores and really just word-of-mouth by Fujifilm photographers that has spread the message to the community at large. Outside of Fujifilm circles, this whole concept is fairly unknown or misunderstood, so there’s still a lot of work to go. MPB’s article will help; hopefully there will be more like it in the near future.
Just today, Fuji X Weekly surpassed the 10,000,000 page view mark for 2023! Amazing! This is an unbelievable milestone.
Specifically, 2.3 million visitors (it’s projected to reach 2.4 million by the end of the year) have viewed over 10 million pages and articles on this website this year. That’s a lot of visitors, and a lot of page views! I broke this down not very long ago, and the number of actual regular readers is nowhere near 2 million. Still, nearly two-and-a-half million visitors viewing over 10 million pages in one year is just incredible, well beyond anything I ever thought possible! I’m stunned by it.
Looking at all-time stats—from when this blog began in 2017 through today—over 6.5 million visitors have viewed 29.5 million pages (sometime in January it will surpass the 30 million mark). Over 1/3 of those visitors and page views happened in 2023. Interestingly, visitors increased by about 30% from 2022, while page views increased by 25%, which means each visitor viewed fewer pages in 2023 than 2022. A few different things could cause this, and I’ll have to dig more deeply to see if there’s something that I should be doing better. There’s always room for improvements, and I’m constantly trying to do a little better as I learn new things and gain more experience.
Most people visit this website for Film Simulation Recipes. Those are always the most popular articles. The Kodachrome 64 Film Simulation Recipe is by far the all-time most viewed, with double the views of second place: Vintage Kodachrome (which has been around for twice as long). I write about a variety of topics (mostly related directly to Fujifilm, but sometimes just photography in-general), but (with a few exceptions) those articles that are not about Recipes tend to not get a lot of attention compared to the Recipe posts.
One more note that I want to discuss: I’m back to having ads. After my expenses for running Fuji X Weekly increased earlier this year, I experimented with one ad company, but had an absolutely awful experience with them. It lasted a few months, and then I pulled the plug. I’m just now trying a new company, and so far am having a much better experience; however, I’m concerned about your experience. Please let me know if the ads are detrimental to your use of the website or are causing frustrations. I’m doing my best to keep them minimal, opting for an optimized user experience (within all of the options that the ad company provides). There’s a limit to what they’ll allow me to do (I’ve already had to fight for some things), but if there is something that they do allow that I can do, if it makes the user experience better (or, with regards to ads, less worse), then I’m happy to do that. So I guess I’m asking for your feedback. Please speak up if the ads are causing you problems. I can’t guarantee that I can fix or change it, but if I can I certainly will.
This morning I awoke to an email in my inbox from Anders. As a Christmas gift to you, he wanted to share his methods for creating Film Simulation Recipes that he has developed and put to use. This formula can be used by anyone. I have taken a similar approach a number of times myself (I do it in-camera, and not with X RAW Studio), although—for me—Recipes can come about many different ways; I don’t have one single method, but perhaps a handful of various approaches. I discussed it a bit in my Emulsion ’86 article.
Pink Blossom Bush – San Diego, CA – Fujifilm X-T5 – Emulsion ’86
Anders’ step-by-step formula is a path that you can follow to create your own Recipes that are certain to be accurate to any film aesthetic that you’d like to mimic. Oftentimes you can easily find the film spec sheets with a quick Google search, but for some emulsions you’ll have to dig deeper, or maybe you won’t find them at all. Many spec sheets for Kodak films are readily available, for example, but you may have trouble finding them for other brands or long-discontinued emulsions. If you can locate the spec sheet, then you can begin Step 1. If you don’t have or use X RAW Studio, you can do this in-camera, but it is probably a little easier to do with X RAW Studio; either way, it does require shooting RAW+JPEG so that you can reprocess the RAW file.
Thank you, Anders Lindborg, for sharing this with everyone! Even if you have no interest in creating a Film Simulation Recipe yourself, perhaps this gives you an idea of the incredible effort that sometimes goes into creating one.
Round Window – Pismo Beach, CA – Fujifilm X100V – Kodak Tri-X 400
Anders’ Film Simulation Development Method
Download all reference material you need, including film spec sheets. This is really important to have, if you want to create a realistic simulation. You will need a good chart of color wavelength in nanometers as well, to be able to use this method.
Load some reference photos into X Raw Studio. Select a good one that is taken at noon, as this used to be the official reference for film daylight temperature. Note: The time when the photo is taken is important. Don’t cheat!
Select the base Film Simulation you think is most similar to the film you actually want to simulate. Sometimes, the general characteristics are more important than the color scheme being spot on.
Choose the Dynamic Range you think is most correct for your simulation. The characteristic curves chart from the spec sheets can be a lot of help here.
Set the White Balance (in kelvin) to a value that corresponds to the color of the film base layer. This will most likely make your colors look really off, but don’t worry about that right now. Note: It helps knowing where the film was created, as the daylight temperature varies quite a bit depending on where in the world you are located.
Check the spec sheets and find out what colors of the second and third (with Fuji, sometimes a fourth) layers are. Look at the spectral sensitivity chart to find how the colors are distributed and which color is most prominent. Locate the highest peak of the dominant color and check the specified wavelength of the peak.
Look in the color wavelength chart and find the color that corresponds to the wavelength reading from the previous step. Now go back to X Raw Studio and open the WB Shift panel and locate the exact color you found. This takes some practice, but after doing it a few times it’s quite easy.
Now look at the colors of your photo and check the color distribution compared to the spectral sensitivity chart. Make any adjustments needed to balance out the color distribution.
Look in the spec sheets again and locate the spectral dye density curves chart. This chart describes the tonality of the film. Adjust Highlight, Shadow, and Clarity as needed.
Any other parameters needed should be set at this step. These include Grain, Sharpness, Color Chrome Effects, Noise Reduction, etc.. Note that changing a single parameter can have a huge impact, so be careful here!
Look at your photo again. Do the colors look like they should? If not, make more adjustments to either your selected White Balance or WB Shift. Only minor adjustments should be needed at this step.
Save your current recipe and apply it to your other reference photos in X Raw Studio. Compare them to photos found on Flickr and film review sites. Keep in mind that many of them are developed and scanned at home, so you need to learn how different development and scanning methods affect the final result! Adjust the recipe as needed and keep reapplying it to your reference photos and double check them over and over again.
If you think you might be done, it’s time to test it for real! Load the recipe into your camera and get out there. Try taking photos that mimics what you’ve found on the Internet so they are somewhat comparable. It’s all about details here, so keep iterating from Step 8 until you are happy. With hard work and a bit of luck, you’ll have a spot on clone of the original film!
“Don’t forget to share your creation with the world,” Anders Lindborg wrote, “and feel happy about contributing to the community! Just keep in mind that this is more of learning how to best mimic the original film, rather than creating an exact copy. There are so many variables that can affect the final result of real film and the most important part here is that the general behavior is the same. This method is proven to work for both color and black & white simulations and is all based on color science. Several successful simulations have been created while developing the method, so this is several years of blood, sweat and tears that have been compressed into these steps. While this method might look very advanced, trust me when I say that it works and that it’s worth the effort! Not only the general look of the film will be simulated, but also its behavior in different situations, including weird color shifts and other general quirks. The results have amazed me several times!”
Since Fujifilm has discontinued what was their entry-level models (such as the X-T200 pictured above), it’s a little more expensive nowadays to get into the X system. If you are on a tight budget, your options are limited, but you still have some good cameras to choose from. Note: this article is based on current pricing as of the time of publication. Let’s dig into this!
This post contains affiliate links, and if you make a purchase using my links I’ll be compensated a small amount for it.
If your budget is $1,000 and you want something brand-new:
That is your only option, but it is a good one; however, if you think outside the box, there’s another way to approach this:
Choose one of the cameras below: Fujifilm X-T30 II — Amazon — B&H — Moment Fujifilm X-S10 — Amazon — B&H — Moment Add one of these lenses: 7Artisans 25mm f/1.8 — Amazon Meike 25mm f/1.8 — Amazon Meike 35mm f/1.7 — Amazon Meike 35mm f/1.4 — Amazon 7Artisans 35mm f/1.4 — Amazon TTArtisan 35mm f/1.4 — Amazon TTArtisan 50mm f/2 — Amazon Meike 50mm f/1.7 — Amazon
If your budget is under $1,000:
You’ll have to go the second-hand route. Some places to look are B&H’s used department, KEH, MPB, and eBay. I’m sure there are other websites, too. Some used camera models to consider are:
If you shop around, it’s possible to find a good deal, and even get a Fujifilm camera and lens for less than $400. Almost no matter your budget, there are options, but the less you have to spend, the more difficult it will be and the fewer choices you’ll have; however, don’t fret! Just keep an eye out for good deals, and with some patience you are bound to find something that you can afford. My introduction to Fujifilm, which was on a tight budget, was via a used X-E1. I know first-hand that it is possible.
Thankfully, Nathalie did a much better job on her website than I ever could. She has a two-part series on this topic that is an essential must-read if you are interested in trying in-camera double exposures. Click here for Part 1, and click here for Part 2. Go ahead and click those links!
A side note about Nathalie’s blog… I Google searched “Fujifilm blog” today, and her’s made the first page of search results. That’s a big deal! I remember when Fuji X Weekly wasn’t even in the first 20 pages (yes, I wen’t through them all to see where I ranked…). When I made it onto the third page I was quite excited, and couldn’t believe the websites that I was placed near (all of which I thought were bigger and more established than my little blog). When I cracked Google’s first page, I was shocked, as I never imagined that it was possible for me. Nowadays I usually rank in the top three spots—often number one—for a “Fujifilm blog” search. Congrats to Nathalie for making it onto the first page! She’s really establishing herself as a top-tier voice in the Fujifilm community, and it’s an honor to cohost SOOC Livewith her.
When I first started making Film Simulation Recipes for Fujifilm cameras and discovered that I didn’t need to shoot RAW anymore, I spent over a year strictly being a JPEG-only photographer. After awhile I figured out that it is a lot easier to create new Recipes when you have a RAW file that can be reprocessed in-camera, so I switched to RAW+JPEG. In the years that have passed since, the RAW files always stay on the SD Card in the camera, and it’s the camera-made JPEGs that are transferred to my phone and then to online storage.
Since I have a RAW file, I have the option to reprocess the exposure to other Recipes if I want (it can be done in-camera or via X RAW Studio… I always do it in-camera, personally), but that is something I don’t often do (except for when creating new Recipes). My preferred method is to shoot with a Recipe, and the results are whatever they are (that’s half the fun of it). I try to pick the right Recipe for the given situation; occasionally, though, if I like a particular picture but I shot it with the wrong Recipe, I’ll reprocess it using a more appropriate one. That’s the story of this article.
Interestingly, photographer Chuck Abbott addressed this very question in the September 1955 issue of Arizona Highways magazine, in an article called You’ve Got to Go Back to Get the Good Ones. For those unaware, Arizona Highways has a long history of great photography. It was the first nationally circulated magazine to have an all-color issue (way back in December of 1946). Ansel Adams was a regular contributor, as was Barry Goldwater. Chuck Abbott and his wife Esther Henderson were both long-time contributors. To this day, Arizona Highways is a great place to discover excellent photography, and I often find inspiration within its pages.
“‘Oh, Mr. Abbott,'” Chuck wrote in 1955, explaining a question that he had been asked often, “‘how do you get such good pictures? I was there and mine didn’t turn out at all well.'” He was asked the same question that The Guardian and PetaPixel put forward; however, Chuck’s answer was different than theirs. While there are a thousand ways that the question could be answered, I believe that the most profound was stated back in 1955 by Chuck Abbott.
“My answer is invariably the same,” Chuck said. “You’ll have to go back and try another day, another light, another season.” He continued, “Meanwhile, I am mentally recalling that ‘good’ picture; was it really good, couldn’t it have been better, and shouldn’t I go back again and do it over?”
Autumn in a Mountain Meadow – Flagstaff, AZ – Fujifilm X100V – Fujicolor Superia 100
“For that’s the trouble with this picture business,” Chuck added, “there is so little satisfaction in it! You are always beset with the haunting thought that every picture could be improved, if not by you, then by someone, sometime; so you end up traveling in a circle, periodically returning to do a better, or at least a different, interpretation of the subject. Perfection, of course, is the goal.”
He goes on in the article to provide some practical advice, which applies much more to photographers of a bygone era than today. For example, there’s no need to rely on friends in a certain region to obtain a weather report. You also don’t need to worry about burning through film, unless, of course, you’re shooting with film instead of digital. But a little while later Chuck states, “Providence, equipment, legwork and viewpoint; to me these are the four indispensables in picture-making. You may get fair results with lesser combinations but you can’t click completely without all four.”
Pacific Poppies – Montaña de Oro SP, CA – Fujifilm X-E4 – Pacific Blues
And that’s the answer: you need a bit of luck, quality camera gear (which most equipment nowadays is), do some research before heading out, and find good compositions; when that fails or even when it succeeds, do it again another day, in a different light, during a different season. Then your photos of famous places will look good. That’s the advice Chuck Abbott gave, and I think it is just as true today as the day it was published in Arizona Highways.
In the comments section of the PetaPixel article, someone stated, “Those fantastic examples didn’t come straight out of camera looking like that. It takes work and skill to coax what our eyes see at a scenic place from what the camera saw at the same place.” While the sample pictures in the article were indeed most likely edited, I disagree that RAW editing is any sort of prerequisite to great photographs. In fact, all of my pictures in this article are unedited camera-made JPEGs using my Film Simulation Recipes. So it is, in fact, completely possible to have pictures “come straight out of camera looking like that.” You can make the camera “see” what our eyes (or our mind’s eyes) see at a scenic place (or any place) if you want to, and Fujifilm cameras plus my Recipes make it easy. The hard part is up to you: returning to places you’ve already been to capture a better, or at least different, interpretation of the subject.
As I was contemplating how I might approach the use of this Recipe on my X-T5, a Fuji X Weekly reader suggested that I should modify it by using the Nostalgic Neg. film simulation instead of Eterna. Because there are some similarities between those two film sims, there is potential for crossover. Sure enough, with the right modifications, I was able to recreate the look and feel of the Kodak Vision3 250D Recipe using Nostalgic Neg.; however, it’s not an identical rendering, especially the shadows, which are a little warmer. There are other small differences, too. As you know, one film can have many different looks depending on how it was shot, developed, and scanned or printed, so you could consider this v2 version of Kodak Vision3 250D to be a divergent (yet still similar) aesthetic that replicates a different handling of the film.
If you have a camera with the Nostalgic Neg. film simulation, I invite you to try this new Kodak Vision3 250D v2 Film Simulation Recipe! You should also try the version that uses Eterna, too, and see which one you like better. While the “v1” Recipe has been my favorite for years, I think I like this new v2 version just a little more. It definitely produces an analog-like look that is easy to appreciate.
Film Simulation: Nostalgic Neg. Dynamic Range: DR200 Grain Effect: Strong, Small Color Chrome Effect: Strong Color Chrome FX Blue: Off White Balance: Fluorescent 1, -5 Red & 0 Blue Highlight: +4 Shadow: +3 Color: -1 Sharpness: -2 High ISO NR: -4 Clarity: -2 ISO: Auto, up to ISO 6400 Exposure Compensation: 0 to +2/3 (typically)
Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs captured using this Kodak Vision3 250D v2 Film Simulation Recipe on my Fujifilm X-T5:
Public Telephone – Scottsdale, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Spinning Carousel – Scottsdale, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Snack Stop – Scottsdale, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Nighttime at Circle K – Surprise, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Joyful – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Urban Bougainvillea – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Little Plant in a Courtyard – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Sitting & Waiting – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Outdoor Dining – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Vines & Concrete – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Reflected Light on a Tall Building – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
In Step – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
High Rise Condo – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Constructing a Tall Building – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Jon – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – Photo by Amanda Roesch
95 LED Shoes – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Parking Garage – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Urban Vine – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Level 2 – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
No Left Turn – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Holiday Guitarist – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Cranes & Palms – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Layton – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Electric Construction – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Apartment Patio – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Autumn Rooftop – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Gazebo Roof – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Rainbows & Bougainvillea – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Bougainvillea Veiling Palm – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Pink Blossoming Flowers – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
This post contains affiliate links, and if you make a purchase using my links I’ll be compensated a small amount for it.
Find this Film Simulation Recipe and over 300 more on the Fuji X Weekly App! Consider becoming a Patron subscriber to unlock the best App experience and to support Fuji X Weekly.
I enrolled in Photography 101 in college 12 years before Fujifilm introduced the original X100. I say this because I’m often accused of being a Fujifilm fanboy, which is meant to be a put-down to insinuate that my opinions are too biased to be trusted. But should I be so easily dismissed just because I really like Fujifilm cameras?
First, I am a proud Fujifilm fanboy, but that should not automatically invalidate my opinions; instead, it should only point towards my perspective. My photography journey began with full-manual film cameras by Canon and Pentax. Two years prior to the release of the X100, I first dabbled in digital photography. I owned cameras by Pentax, Samsung (remember when they made APS-C mirrorless cameras?), Sigma, Nikon, and Sony. Then, in 2016, I purchased a four-year-old Fujifilm X-E1, and my world changed. I found what I had been looking for ever since first trying digital. In an instant I became a Fujifilm fanboy, and my appreciation of Fujifilm brand cameras has only grown stronger since.
Shot on a Ricoh GR III
But, that doesn’t mean I’m not interested in other brands. I have two Ricoh GR cameras, for example. I also own a Nikon Zfc, although I rarely use it. I tried out a Canon EOS 5DS R a couple of years ago. More recently, I had the opportunity to use a Sony A7 IV fairly extensively. I have nothing against Canikony brands, but the more I use them, the more I’m convinced that they’re not for me.
Vocalizing my displeasure with brands that don’t have “film” in the name, and simultaneously stating why I love one particular brand, has caused some to suggest that my opinions are invalid. To be clear: my opinions are nothing more than my opinions, and they stem from my perspective. I was a long-time film photographer who exclusively used full-manual cameras for over a decade, was constantly frustrated with the digital models I used until I found Fujifilm, and I discovered along the way that I dislike editing RAW files—I much prefer camera-made JPEGs, as long as the camera can make those look good. That’s my perspective, and it is something that you may or may not relate to. If you cannot relate to it, then take my opinions with a grain of salt because they’re likely to be different from yours; however, that doesn’t mean that they’re invalid opinions.
Shot on a Nikon Zfc
I got heavily criticized when I stated that Nikon’s venture into retro-styled cameras fell short. Nikon didn’t have the courage to do what they should have done, and made compromises instead. From my perspective that much is clear, but I understand that if your perspective is different from mine you might have divergent conclusions, which is great—the world would be a boring place if we all thought exactly alike. For someone like me, the Fujifilm X-T5 beats the Nikon Zf, no question about it; for someone else, the Zf might be declared the winner for one reason or another. With cameras like the Zf and Zfc, I think Nikon has the potential to be great in my eyes, but those models have some significant shortcomings that need to be overcome first.
I was pretty unimpressed by the Canon EOS 5DS R when I used it. Perhaps that’s because I’m spoiled by the advantages of mirrorless, and using a DSLR was like stepping back in time (and not in a good way). While the camera-made JPEGs had nice colors, they were prone to banding and issues like that, the dynamic range and high-ISO performance was kind of disappointing, and the adjustment options were somewhat limiting. Maybe I’d like the newest models better, but not much about the 5DS R made me curious to try.
Shot on a Canon EOS 5DS R
Not a lot of people know that I used a Sony A7 IV camera somewhat extensively earlier this year. A number of friends and family members suggested that I should try it, plus all sorts of people complained to me that Fujifilm should be more like Sony (and, sadly, Fujifilm seems to be trying…). The opportunity presented itself, so I gave it an honest go. I even thought that if all went well, I might make Sony Recipes. But it didn’t go well. Using Sony cameras—or, at least the A7 IV—is such an uninspiring experience. Yeah, it will get the job done, but nothing about it is exciting to me. Technically great—yes; however, not in a form that makes me want to pick up the camera and shoot. Overall, the JPEG colors were disappointing, except for the “FL” (a.k.a. Film Look) creative look (their version of a film simulation), which actually is pretty darn good. I did like the ability to fade the blacks, and I did think that clipped highlights fall off nicely (as far as digital cameras go), but I did not like the proneness to banding. Sony’s JPEGs just aren’t at the same level as Fujifilm’s, but they definitely have some potential if Sony keeps working at it; however, the camera itself is boring.
But, but, but… autofocus! Fujifilm’s is awful, and Canikony is great! That’s what people say, but I don’t have any issues with Fujifilm’s autofocus, nor did I find any of the Canikony’s I used to be notably superior. Perhaps this is because I started photography with manual focus, and even though autofocus existed, it wasn’t very good back then. It’s improved by leaps and bounds over the years, and is quite reliable nowadays from every brand, including Fujifilm. If you take issue with this, ask yourself this question: why were photographers and cinematographers back then with inferior gear able to do so much more than you today with superior equipment? The answer, of course, is that the problem is not the gear, and has never been. But, you know, it’s easier to blame the gear than to learn new skills that don’t require the gear to be super amazingly great in order to get your desired results. And that’s how I would summarize this point: Fujifilm’s autofocus is amazingly great, and Canikony’s is, perhaps, super amazingly great. Those who put it down are ignoring the fact that it is still amazingly great.
Shot on a Sony A7 IV
This article concludes similarly to how it began: I love Fujifilm cameras! The X100V is my favorite, followed by the X-E4, then the X-T5, which I’ve been shooting with for a year now. Those three cameras are the ones that, by far, I use the most. I also enjoy shooting with my Ricoh GR III. And I use my iPhone often for casual shooting. That’s what works for me, which very well might be different from what works for you, and that’s perfectly ok. All of us have different experiences that give is divergent perspectives. If your perspective is similar to mine, you likely will appreciate my opinions, but if not, you probably will disagree. I’m a Fujifilm fanboy—perhaps one of the biggest that there is—but I’m not strictly a Fujifilm photographer, as I have a long history using all sorts of different brands, including the ones that I criticize sometimes. Heck, I’m even critical of Fujifilm occasionally—including in this very article—but Fujifilm is, by far, my favorite camera brand of them all.
This post contains affiliate links, and if you make a purchase using my links I’ll be compensated a small amount for it.
