This Film Simulation Recipe is modeled after some prints I found in a box that I thought looked interesting. I didn’t initially know what film had been used, but after locating the negatives I discovered it was something called Kodak GT 800-3, and I had no idea what that was. After much sleuthing, I found out it was Kodak Max Zoom 800, also known as Max 800. The film was shot in 2006 (I believe by my wife), and it was the third and final iteration of the emulsion (this version was introduced in 2000). Max Zoom 800 was replaced in 2006 by the similar Max Versatility Plus 800 (which was around for five or six years before its discontinuation).
Kodak made Max 800 film for point-and-shoot and disposable cameras—specifically, they marketed it for point-and-shot cameras with a zoom lens, which exaggerated camera shake. It was a cheap high-ISO consumer color negative film intended for the novice. It had a large latitude for underexposure and (especially) overexposure, but color reproduction was a little different (some have said “bland” or “weird”) when compared to other Kodak films. Kodak intended the film to be printed on Ektacolor Edge paper, but my samples were printed on Fujicolor Crystal Archive paper (which certainly affects the aesthetic)—this recipe is modeled after my samples.
This Kodak Max 800 recipe is compatible with the Fujifilm X-Pro3, X100V, X-T4, X-S10, X-E4, and X-T30 II cameras. Because it uses the Classic Negative film simulation and Clarity, it is not compatible with the X-T3 and X-T30, unfortunately. For those with the X-H2s, it’s my understanding that this recipe is completely compatible and renders near identically, but I have not tested it to know for certain. Those with newer GFX cameras can use it, too, although it will render a little differently.
Classic Negative Dynamic Range: DR400 Highlight: -2 Shadow: +1 Color: -1 Noise Reduction: -4 Sharpness: -2 Clarity: -4 Grain Effect: Strong, Small Color Chrome Effect: Strong Color Chrome Effect Blue: Off White Balance: 7300K, -5 Red & -2 Blue ISO: Auto, up to ISO 6400 Exposure Compensation: 0 to +2/3 (typically)
Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs captured using this “Kodak Max 800” Film Simulation Recipe on my Fujifilm X-E4:
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The Fuji X Weekly App is free, yet becoming a Fuji X Weekly Patron unlocks the best App experience! One benefit of being a Patron is you get early access to some new film simulation recipes. These Early-Access Recipes will eventually become available free to everyone in time, including this new one. In fact, many Early-Access Recipes have been publicly published on this blog and the App, so now everyone can use them! Patrons help support Fuji X Weekly and, really, without them there would be no App. So I want to give a special “thank you” to all of the Patrons!
This new Patron Early-Access Recipe is modeled after some prints I found in a box that I thought looked interesting. I didn’t initially know what film had been used, but after locating the negatives I discovered it was something called Kodak GT 800-3, and I had no idea what that was. After much sleuthing, I found out it was Kodak Max Zoom 800, also known as Max 800. The film was shot in 2006 (I believe by my wife), and it was the third and final iteration of the emulsion (this version was introduced in 2000). Max Zoom 800 was replaced in 2006 by the similar Max Versatility Plus 800 (which was around for five or six years before its discontinuation).
Kodak made Max 800 film for point-and-shoot and disposable cameras—specifically, they marketed it for point-and-shot cameras with a zoom lens, which exaggerated camera shake. It was a cheap high-ISO consumer color negative film intended for the novice. It had a large latitude for underexposure and (especially) overexposure, but color reproduction was a little different (some have said bland or weird) when compared to other Kodak films. Kodak intended the film to be printed on Ektacolor Edge paper, but my samples were printed on Fujicolor Crystal Archive paper (which certainly affects the aesthetic)—this recipe is modeled after my samples.
This Kodak Max 800 Patron Early-Access Recipe is compatible with the Fujifilm X-Pro3, X100V, X-T4, X-S10, X-E4, and X-T30 II cameras. If you are a Fuji X Weekly Patron, it’s available to you right now on the Fuji X Weekly App! If you don’t have the App, download it for free today.
Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs captured using this “Kodak Max 800” film simulation recipe on my Fujifilm X-E4:
The easiest way to recreate a ’90’s film aesthetic, which is really popular right now, is to use a Fujifilm camera loaded with a Film Simulation Recipe, plus utilize a flash. The nostalgic snapshot pictures from that era were often captured with cameras—whether a disposable QuickSnap or FunSaver, or a cheap point-and-shoot—that had a built-in fill-flash; the use of a flash plus a Fujicolor or Kodak print film palette are essential elements of the look. I have a number of Film Simulation Recipes that will produce a convincing aesthetic, and for this project I used Kodak Max 800, which is one of my favorites for flash photography.
The kind folks at Godox sent me a Lux Cadet retro-styled flash to try out. This flash pairs well visually with Fujifilm X-series cameras (such as my X-E4), and flash photography in-general couples well with Film Simulation Recipes, so Godox offered me one for free. I’m familiar with Godox flashes, because I already own and use a Lux Junior (which I paid for… almost all of the gear that I talk about on this website is purchased by me out of my own pocket). Even though Godox gifted me the Lux Cadet, they didn’t put any stipulations on what I could or couldn’t say about it; these are my thoughts and opinions, and they’d be the same if I had purchased the flash myself.
My grandfather was an amateur photographer of sorts. He shot a lot of slide film, mostly Kodachrome. He had a flash that looked quite similar to the Lux Cadet; I think it might have been from the 1960’s, but I’m not sure. Anyway, Godox gave the Lux Cadet a beautiful vintage design that looks especially great on Fujifilm cameras. While it might appear that it’s from a bygone era, the flash is definitely modern.
The Lux Cadet works the same as my Lux Junior, which means that it’s super simple to use. If you are new to flash photography, there are some important things to know. Whole books have been written on this topic, which might be worthwhile to read, but I’ll try to keep this as simple and brief as possible, and just know that there’s a lot more to this topic.
First, most cameras don’t have high-speed flash sync, so there’s a limit on how fast your shutter can be. The X100-series has a leaf shutter, so it can do high-speed flash sync (it also has a built-in flash); for other cameras, look for an X next to a shutter speed on the knob, and that’s the upper limit. On my X-E4, “180X” on the shutter knob tells me that 1/180 is the fastest that I can sync my flash, so I need to use that shutter speed or slower. Because of this, using a flash in bright daylight can be challenging—you might have to use a small aperture like f/11 or f/16, or try an ND filter.
Second, the flash is quite powerful; because you are adding in a bright light source, you might have to significantly underexpose compared to what the meter says. It’s not uncommon that I have the exposure compensation dial set to -2 or even -3. The flash can be set to A (Auto) or M (Manual); I prefer M, and often choose the lowest setting (marked by 1/64 on the flash). Each situation is unique, so the exact camera and flash settings can vary significantly picture-to-picture. What works in one scenario won’t in another, so each should be judged individually. Once you get a feel for it, the process becomes easy and natural.
The best time to use the flash is right around sunrise or sunset and during blue hour, which is the 30 minutes immediately before sunrise and the 30 minutes immediately after sunset. After dark is also a good time, as well as anytime indoors. In those situations, using the Godox Lux Cadet on a Fujifilm camera with a Film Simulation Recipe—such as Kodak Max 800—will produce a ’90’s film look that can be quite striking. If that’s the aesthetic you’re trying to achieve, this is probably the easiest and one of the most convincing ways to do it. You can get creative with the flash, such as intentional movement—the bright flash will freeze close objects, while things further away will be a streaky blur. There’s a lot of potential fun that you can have with flash photography.
My only complaint—if it’s even a complaint—is that a flash adds bulk and weight to the camera, so it’s less convenient to carry around. The Lux Cadet is pretty compact and lightweight compared to many other flashes, but it still adds some notable girth. Between the Lux Cadet and Lux Junior, I prefer the Lux Junior because it is slightly more compact, but I like the vintage look of the Lux Cadet more. Also, the Lux Junior uses AA batteries, while the Lux Cadet has an internal battery that recharges with a USB-C cable (included). They’re both highly affordable, and you can’t go wrong with either. The Godox Lux Cadet retails for $94.90. Even if you don’t do a lot of flash photography, it’s a good idea to have one around, and the Lux Cadet is a solid option to consider.
This post contains affiliate links, and if you make a purchase using my links I’ll be compensated a small amount for it.
July 4th is an American holiday, often celebrated with family, fireworks, watermelon, and barbecues. I chose to document the day with my Fujifilm X100V loaded with seven Film Simulation Recipes, each picked for a specific reason. I made a point to try all seven throughout the day, and especially during the fireworks show. Let’s take a look at how that worked out!
I get asked fairly regularly which Film Simulation Recipes are the most popular. For me, this is a fascinating topic, but it’s definitely hard to know definitively. While I get a glimpse on social media, my best gauge is the Fuji X Weekly website statistics; specifically, which Recipe articles are viewed the most. I don’t collect any data on the Fuji X Weekly App, so that’s no help—although, if I did, it would likely offer the most accurate picture; however, it would still be impossible to know which Recipes people programmed into their Fujifilm cameras, or how often they used each. Perhaps a survey would be particularly useful, yet even it has its limitations. While certainly a flawed method, page-view website statics offer the best glimpse at which Film Simulation Recipes are the most popular, so that’s what I’m using for this article. These are simply the Top 25 most-viewed Recipes on the Fuji X Weekly website last month (February 2024).
Most of the time these lists are pretty predictable. Those with Kodak brand names in the title—Kodachrome, Portra, Gold, Tri-X, etc., etc.—are the most popular. Classic Chrome is the king of film simulations, as the majority of the most-viewed Recipes are based on that film simulation. X-Trans IV Recipes, especially for the X-Pro3, X100V, X-T4, X-S10, X-E4, and X-T30 II cameras, tend to be the most popular, although I see a spike in interest in X-Trans V.
For the month of February, however, I was quite surprised by many of the rankings. Reala Ace topped the list, which is the first time in a very long time that Kodachrome 64 wasn’t number one. It’s also the first time that I’ve ever seen a Recipe that uses Classic Negative reach the very top, or one specifically for X-Trans V cameras. Kodak Portra 800 v3, Agfa Ultra 100 v2, and Fujicolor Superia 1600 (for X-Trans V) were all published last month; Vintage Eterna was a Fuji X Weekly App Patron Early-Access Recipe that became available to everyone in February. The remaining Recipes were not surprising, but their rankings moved around compared to January; several moved out of the Top 25 altogether.
Without any further delay, below are the most popular Recipes of last month!
Top 25 Most Popular Film Simulation Recipes of February 2024
By far the most popular B&W Recipe, Kodak Tri-X 400 is based on the Acros film simulation, and has compatibility X-Trans III, X-Trans IV, and X-Trans V models. It was ranked #10 last month.
A Classic Chrome based Recipe that is compatible with X-Trans III cameras. This is almost always the most popular X-Trans III Recipe, and has been around for a very long time. It was ranked #7 last month.
Pacific Blues was the highest-ranked Classic Negative based Recipe in 2023. It’s compatible with X-Trans IV models (there is an X-Trans V version). Last month it ranked #9.
Another Classic Chrome based Recipe for use on X-Trans III models, plus the X-T3/X-T30 (there’s a new version for X-Trans V). Last month is was ranked #11.
Vintage Eterna is based on the Eterna film simulation, and is compatible with X-Trans IV and V models, plus the X-H1. This is its first appearance on the list.
This used to commonly be in the Top 10, but it has been slipping in popularity lately. It’s based on Classic Chrome, and is compatible with X-Trans III models (there’s an X-Trans IV version). It was ranked #16 last month.
A newly published Recipe for X-Trans V cameras (there is a version for X-Trans IV that’s been around awhile), Fujicolor Superia 1600 is based on the Classic Negative film simulation.
I get asked fairly regularly which Film Simulation Recipes are the most popular. For me, this is a fascinating topic, but it’s definitely hard to know definitively. While I get a glimpse on social media, my best gauge is the Fuji X Weekly website statistics; specifically, which Recipe articles are viewed the most. I don’t collect any data on the Fuji X Weekly App, so that’s no help—although, if I did, it would likely offer the most accurate picture; however, it would still be impossible to know which Recipes people programmed into their Fujifilm cameras, or how often they use each. Perhaps a survey would be particularly useful, yet even it has its limitations. While certainly a flawed method, page-view website statics offer the best glimpse at which Film Simulation Recipes are the most popular, so that’s what I’m using for this article. These are simply the Top 25 most-viewed Recipes on the Fuji X Weekly website.
There’s a lot that can be gleaned from this exercise, but also a grain of salt must be consumed, too. For example, Vibrant Arizona actually has four Recipes in that article (two versions of two), so it would certainly rank lower if it only had one; also, it was published near the end of April, so it has a time disadvantage, as do all of the other Recipes published after January 1st. But, setting those limitations aside, there are still some fascinating trends to be explored. Some of these rankings are quite surprising to me, and others are not surprising at all.
Classic Chrome is the king of film simulations. The five most popular Fuji X Weekly Recipes all use Classic Chrome, as do 21 of the Top 25. Second place, which is Classic Negative with two, is a very distant second. Acros and PRO Neg. Std have one each. The other film simulations don’t even chart on this list. For those who use Film Simulation Recipes, Classic Chrome is clearly the film sim of choice for most.
Not surprisingly, Recipes with Kodak brand names are the most popular. 13 have Kodak in the name, eight have Portra in the name, and five have Kodachrome in the name. Kodak was the most popular film brand, so it should be expected that Film Simulation Recipes that mimic those emulsions would also be popular. What is surprising to me is that none with Fujifilm, Fujicolor, Superia, Provia, Velvia, etc., in the Recipe name made this list, as some of those are my personal favorites.
10 of these Recipes use a Kelvin White Balance, eight use Auto White Balance, six use Daylight, and one uses a Custom White Balance measurement. Almost all of them are warm, at least a little. Only one B&W Recipe made this list, which isn’t a shock to me because the color Recipes are typically far more popular than monochrome. Only one Recipe specifically intended for night photography made this list, and I’m actually a little surprised by which one and how high it ranks. 10 Recipes use DR200, nine use DR400, five use DR-Auto, and one uses D-Range Priority Strong.
Most people who use Recipes do so on X-Trans IV cameras, specifically the X-Pro3, X100V, X-T4, X-S10, X-E4, and X-T30 II models. Of the Top 25 Recipes, 16 of them are for those specific X-Trans IV cameras, including each of the Top 3. Six are for X-Trans III cameras plus the X-T3 and X-T30, two are for X-Trans V, and one is for X-Trans II (the very last one). But it’s a little more convoluted than that, because some Recipes (Vibrant Arizona and Kodak Tri-X 400 for sure, and probably others) are being used on X-Trans V cameras. Some of the X-Trans III plus X-T3 and X-T30 Recipes are likely being used on X-Trans IV and X-Trans V models to some extent. The majority of X-Trans V Recipes are at a disadvantage because they were published after January 1st, and there are only four fifth-generation X-Trans models anyway. I think the biggest takeaway is that the majority of people who shoot with Film Simulation Recipes in 2023 are doing so on X-Trans III and newer cameras, and X-Trans IV is the largest group within that. Recipes are not as popular on EXR, X-Trans I, X-Trans II, Bayer, and GFX models, although there are certainly many who do use them.
There are some rankings that surprise me. Vibrant Arizona is the only one published in 2023 to make the Top 25, although the fact that there are actually four Recipes in that article certainly affect its page-views. The X-Trans III version of Kodak Portra 400 requires a hard-to-get-right custom White Balance measurement, so it’s always surprising to me that so many use it. Kodak Portra 400 Warm and Bright Summer are especially warm, and their use case is more narrow than the others. If you had asked me what the second-most popular Recipe that uses the Classic Negative film sim, I would not have guessed Kodak Max 800, yet here it is! The X-Trans III version of Kodachrome II was ranked #7 last year, the X-Trans IV version of Kodachome II was ranked #8, Nostalgic Negative was #9, and Kodak Ektar 100 was #10, so those have fallen significantly, now ranked #12, #19, #24, & #16, respectively. I’m a little surprised that Classic Kodak Chrome is the most popular X-Trans II Recipe.
Anyway, I’ve held you up long enough. Let’s get to the list!
Top 25 Most Popular Film Simulation Recipes of 2023 (…so far)
I get asked fairly regularly which Film Simulation Recipes are the most popular. For me, this is a fascinating topic, but it’s definitely hard to know definitively. While I get a glimpse on social media, my best gauge is the Fuji X Weekly website statistics; specifically, which Recipe articles are viewed the most. I don’t collect any data on the Fuji X Weekly App, so that’s no help—although, if I did, it would likely offer the most accurate picture; however, it would still be impossible to know which Recipes people programmed into their Fujifilm cameras, or how often they used each. Perhaps a survey would be particularly useful, yet even it has its limitations. While certainly a flawed method, page-view website statics offer the best glimpse at which Film Simulation Recipes are the most popular, so that’s what I’m using for this article. These are simply the Top 25 most-viewed Recipes on the Fuji X Weekly website last month (January 2024).
Most of the time these lists are pretty predictable. Those with Kodak brand names in the title—Kodachrome, Portra, Gold, Tri-X, etc., etc.—are the most popular. Classic Chrome is the king of film simulations, as the majority of the most-viewed Recipes are based on that film simulation. X-Trans IV Recipes, especially for the X-Pro3, X100V, X-T4, X-S10, X-E4, and X-T30 II cameras, tend to be the most popular.
This time, however, I was a surprised by many of the rankings. The top two—Kodachrome 64 and Kodak Portra 400 v2—did not surprise me at all. Those particular Recipes are far-and-away the most popular. Third place, which made this list despite being so new (released towards the end of the month), is a good deal behind the top two. Reala Ace is now the most popular Classic Negative Recipe, edging out Pacific Blues. Kodak Vision3 250D is the only Recipe that uses Eterna, and Kodak Vision3 250D v2 is the only one that uses Nostalgic Neg.. There’s also only one PRO Neg. Std Recipe and one Acros, while five use Classic Negative and 16 (of the 25) use Classic Chrome. By far the most popular X-Trans II Recipe is Classic Kodak Chrome, which ranks 21st. Fujicolor C200 v2 is the only App Patron Early-Access Recipe that I’ve ever seen make it into one of these lists.
Without any further delay, below are the most popular Recipes of last month!
Top 25 Most Popular Film Simulation Recipes of January 2024
Just today, Fuji X Weekly surpassed the 10,000,000 page view mark for 2023! Amazing! This is an unbelievable milestone.
Specifically, 2.3 million visitors (it’s projected to reach 2.4 million by the end of the year) have viewed over 10 million pages and articles on this website this year. That’s a lot of visitors, and a lot of page views! I broke this down not very long ago, and the number of actual regular readers is nowhere near 2 million. Still, nearly two-and-a-half million visitors viewing over 10 million pages in one year is just incredible, well beyond anything I ever thought possible! I’m stunned by it.
Looking at all-time stats—from when this blog began in 2017 through today—over 6.5 million visitors have viewed 29.5 million pages (sometime in January it will surpass the 30 million mark). Over 1/3 of those visitors and page views happened in 2023. Interestingly, visitors increased by about 30% from 2022, while page views increased by 25%, which means each visitor viewed fewer pages in 2023 than 2022. A few different things could cause this, and I’ll have to dig more deeply to see if there’s something that I should be doing better. There’s always room for improvements, and I’m constantly trying to do a little better as I learn new things and gain more experience.
Most people visit this website for Film Simulation Recipes. Those are always the most popular articles. The Kodachrome 64 Film Simulation Recipe is by far the all-time most viewed, with double the views of second place: Vintage Kodachrome (which has been around for twice as long). I write about a variety of topics (mostly related directly to Fujifilm, but sometimes just photography in-general), but (with a few exceptions) those articles that are not about Recipes tend to not get a lot of attention compared to the Recipe posts.
One more note that I want to discuss: I’m back to having ads. After my expenses for running Fuji X Weekly increased earlier this year, I experimented with one ad company, but had an absolutely awful experience with them. It lasted a few months, and then I pulled the plug. I’m just now trying a new company, and so far am having a much better experience; however, I’m concerned about your experience. Please let me know if the ads are detrimental to your use of the website or are causing frustrations. I’m doing my best to keep them minimal, opting for an optimized user experience (within all of the options that the ad company provides). There’s a limit to what they’ll allow me to do (I’ve already had to fight for some things), but if there is something that they do allow that I can do, if it makes the user experience better (or, with regards to ads, less worse), then I’m happy to do that. So I guess I’m asking for your feedback. Please speak up if the ads are causing you problems. I can’t guarantee that I can fix or change it, but if I can I certainly will.
A lot of people are interested right now in achieving a 1990’s film look. If you’re unfamiliar, the specific aesthetic is that of cheap 35mm point-and-shoot and disposable cameras. You know, the 4″ x 6″ prints from the 1-hour photo lab that’s in your (or your parent’s) photo album or picture box. If you are older than 25 (and maybe as young as 20) there might be some nostalgia associated with this look. If you own a Fujifilm model, it’s not too difficult to achieve the ’90’s film aesthetic straight-out-of-camera.
While Kodak was king of film, a surprisingly significant extent of this aesthetic was influenced by Fujifilm. There are a few key reasons for this.
First, Fujifilm’s QuickSnap disposable cameras were a huge hit, and Kodak was often playing catch-up with their FunSaver line. While both were really popular, odds are that if you are looking at a disposable camera picture, it was captured on a QuickSnap, which often used a Fujicolor Superia film.
Second, for those pictures captured on reloadable point-and-shoot cameras, while Kodak sold more film, Fujifilm sold a heck-of-a-lot, too. The majority of pictures were likely shot on Kodak emulsions, but a very large chunk were captured with Fujicolor film.
Third, a lot of 1-hour photo labs used Fujifilm’s machines, chemicals, and paper. Even if the film was Kodak, Fujifilm still had an influence in the final picture aesthetic. The majority of snap-shooters in the 1990’s in the U.S. were dropping their film off at cheap labs inside drug stores or box stores, such as (for example) Walmart. Because Fujifilm sold their photo development equipment and supplies at a slightly lower price than Kodak, many of these labs went with Fujifilm over Kodak. Also, if you had the film scanned by the 1-hour lab (and placed on a CD), it was likely done with a Frontier scanner by Fujifilm.
If you want to recreate this ’90’s film aesthetic on your Fujifilm camera, the best starting point is the Classic Negative film simulation, because it is closely based off of Fujicolor Superia film. Any Film Simulation Recipe that uses Classic Negative as the base is going to get you halfway there. For those who own a Fujifilm camera that doesn’t have Classic Negative (X-Trans III and older, plus X-T3 & X-T30), look for Recipes with Classic Chrome (such as Kodak Gold 200 and Kodacolor) for a retro Kodak look or PRO Neg. Std (such as Fujicolor Superia 800 and Fujicolor 100 Industrial) for a Fujicolor look.
I shot with 10 different Film Simulation Recipes that use Classic Negative as the base for this article. As of this writing, there are over 45 Recipes that use Classic Negative, so there are many more to choose from—just because I didn’t use a particular Recipe here doesn’t mean that it wouldn’t work well or that you shouldn’t try it (finding Classic Negative Recipes on the Fuji X Weekly App is easy for Patron subscribers). I do think these 10 are all good options, and they produce a variety of characteristics. Some are more contrasty and some less. Some are more warm and others more cool. Some are more vibrant and some less so. Take a look at each, and if you are drawn more to the pictures in a particular Recipe, give that one a try for yourself.
We discussed Film Simulation Recipes before talking about gear because choosing the right Recipe is more critical than the gear you use. With that said, gear is important, too. One critical component is flash. While not all ’90’s film snapshots were captured using a flash, a lot were, and so it has become associated closely with the aesthetic. I used flash in all of the Recipe example pictures above.
The Fujifilm X100V has a great fill-flash built into the camera, making it an ideal choice for this style. It also has a leaf shutter, which makes flash photography much easier. There are other Fujifilm cameras that also have a flash and leaf shutter, such as the X100F, X70, and XF10 (to name a few), but the X100V is the only one that also has Classic Negative.
One problem with using the X100V is that the fixed lens is too good. It’s not really believable as a ’90’s point-and-shoot (although there are some examples that have high-quality glass). To tone it down a little, I used a 10% CineBloom diffusion filter, which helps to produce a more analog-like rendering.
When using the Fujifilm X100V, choose the Classic Negative Recipe of your preference, screw a diffusion filter onto the lens (you’ll need an adapter if you don’t have one already), and turn the flash On (TTL). You’re now good to go!
Of course, you don’t need a camera with a built-in flash to do this. My Fujifilm X-E4 doesn’t have a flash, for example, but by attaching an external unit, such as my Godox Lux Junior, to the hot-shoe on top of the camera, I can now do flash photography. This is a lot trickier than using the X100V, and takes some practice if you don’t have experience with a flash, but it is certainly one way to do it.
What I do appreciate about this approach is that the camera is interchangeable-lens, which means you can use a more lofi option, such as the 7Artisans 18mm f/6.3 II. This is softer glass with strong vignetting, and perhaps not one you’d use much for other purposes; however, for replicating the aesthetic of a cheap point-and-shoot it is great!
Combining the Fujifilm X-E4 with the 7Artisan 18mm f/6.3 II lens and using the Godox Lux Junior flash is an affective way to replicate a ’90’s film aesthetic. All of the Fujicolor Analog and Agfa Ultra 100 examples above were captured with this combination, as well as some of the other pictures. If you don’t have a built-in flash on your Fujifilm camera, this is a good way to achieve the look.
While the picture quality from cheap point-and-shoot and disposable cameras were not considered great, this is how many important memories and ordinary life moments where captured in the 1990’s. Many people look back with fondness on these photographs. The image aesthetics conjure up nostalgic feelings, so it should not be too surprising that this look is currently in-style. You can achieve it yourself on your Fujifilm camera without much fuss—it’s mostly just choosing the right Film Simulation Recipe and turning the flash on.
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My Kodak Max 800 film simulation recipe was modeled after some film I found that had “Kodak GT 800-3” imprinted on the negatives. After some research I found out that it was Kodak Max Zoom 800 (specifically, the third iteration of this film). Kodak Max Zoom 800 was replaced by Kodak Max Versatility Plus 800 in 2006, and those negatives had “Kodak GT 800-4” imprinted on them. Well, I found some more prints plus the negatives, and this film has “Kodak GT 800-5” imprinted on them. I searched and searched, but I didn’t find any information on this film. My suspicion is that Kodak updated the Kodak Max Versatility Plus 800 film in some way, yet kept the name the same, but that’s just a guess—it could be an entirely different emulsion sold under a different name. In other words, I’m pretty sure “Kodak GT 800-5” is a descendant of Kodak Max 800, but I wasn’t able to find any specific information on it.
The 4″ x 6″ prints I found were captured in 2008 while on a day-trip to Sedona, Arizona, and were developed at Walgreens. I’m pretty sure the film was shot using a disposable camera, although I don’t remember why (I remember the trip, but I don’t remember anything specific about the pictures). The prints have a strong warm (red/orange) color cast, are somewhat desaturated, and have dark shadows. I’m not sure if this is due to the film itself, or the development and printing by Walgreens, or because they’re degrading with time, or a combination of all three—perhaps something else entirely, like sitting too long in a hot car (always a possibility in Arizona). Whatever the reason, I thought the aesthetic was interesting, so I recreated it on my Fujifilm X-H1.
A goal of mine for 2022 is to buy a better scanner. I had a “better” one (by better, I simply mean better than what I currently have, because it was mediocre, or really “good enough”), but it stopped working about 10 months ago. This current scanner, which is part of a printer/scanner combination, is particularly bad for some reason. I say all of this because the scan above doesn’t do the print justice, but I wanted to include it anyway to give you an idea where the inspiration for this recipe came from.
This Kodak GT 800-5 film simulation recipe is compatible with all X-Trans III cameras, which include the Fujifilm X-Pro2, X100F, X-E3, X-T2, X-T20, and X-H1. You can also use it on the X-T3 and X-T30 by setting Color Chrome Effect to Off. Because of the particularly warm color cast, this isn’t a recipe that’s for everyone or every situation, but in certain situations this will produce interesting results, and some of you will definitely like it.
PRO Neg. Std Dynamic Range: DR400 Highlight: 0 Shadow: +3 Color: -3 Sharpness: -2 Noise Reduction: -4 Grain: Strong White Balance: 7100K, +7 Red & -5 Blue ISO: Auto up to ISO 6400 Exposure Compensation: +1/3 to +1 (typically)
Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs captured using this “Kodak GT 800-5” film simulation recipe on my Fujifilm X-H1:
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I get asked frequently to create Film Simulation Recipes that mimic various films, and occasionally the aesthetic of specific photographers. In the case of this recipe, someone wanted me to recreate the look of photographer Brian Chorski. While Brian’s images seem to have a cohesive style at first glance, upon closer inspection one can spot several subtle variations. After much research, I discovered that he primarily shoots film—both 35mm and medium-format—and he prefers Kodak emulsions, especially Portra 160, Portra 400, Portra 800, and Ektar 100. I believe that he uses a warming filter at least some of the time, perhaps most of the time. I think he tends to overexpose (a common color negative film technique), and (obviously) his scanning and post-editing play a role in the final outcome. Also, he shoots primarily in the warm summer months.
I believe that several already existing Film Simulation Recipes at times come close to Brian’s look (some more than others), including Kodak Portra 160, Kodak Portra 400 v2 (this one, too), Kodak Portra 400 Warm, Kodak Portra 800 v2, Kodak Ultramax 400, Kodak Max 800, Kodak Ektar 100, Vintage Vibes, Pacific Blues, Bright Summer, and Bright Kodak. I’m sure there are others, too. Still, some of Brian’s pictures don’t seem to match any of those recipes, so I came up with a new one. This recipe, which I’m calling September Summer, is intended to replicate the aesthetic of some of Brian Chorski’s photographs. It seems best suited for sunny conditions, producing warm images that will remind you of seemingly endless summer days (which are now waning).
This “September Summer” Film Simulation Recipe is compatible with the Fujifilm X-Pro3, X100V, X-T4, X-S10, X-E4, and X-T30 II cameras, but not the X-T3 and X-T30, unfortunately. I believe it is also fully compatible with the X-H2 and X-H2s, but I have not tried it to know for sure. Those with newer GFX cameras can use it, too, but it will render slightly different. I don’t think this is a recipe that most will use regularly, but I believe some of you will really appreciate it in the right conditions.
Classic Negative Dynamic Range: DR400 Highlight: -1 Shadow: -1 Color: +1 Noise Reduction: -4 Sharpness: 0 Clarity: -4 Grain Effect: Weak, Small Color Chrome Effect: Off Color Chrome Effect Blue: Weak White Balance: 5500K, +3 Red & -7 Blue ISO: Auto, up to ISO 6400 Exposure Compensation: 0 to +1 (typically)
Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs using this “September Summer” Film Simulation Recipe on a Fujifilm X-E4:
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There are 20 different film simulations on the new Fujifilm X100VI. Since there are likely many newcomers to Fujifilm who aren’t all that familiar with the various film sims and Film Simulation Recipes, I thought it would be worthwhile to discuss each one in more detail, and offer my personal favorite Recipes for each. I don’t (yet) have access to the new Reala Ace film simulation, so that one will be excluded from this. Also, I’ll combine the four Acros film sims into one article, and the four Monochrome film sims (and probably Sepia, too) into another.
The Classic Negative film simulation is closely modeled after Fujifilm’s Superia line of films. I’m not sure why they didn’t use the Superia brand name for the film sim, because that’s what it resembles. If you want a Superia look—or, really, any Fujicolor film that has their 4th-layer technology—your best bet is to use Classic Negative as the base. It was introduced on the X-Pro3, so cameras that are older don’t have this film simulation.
Classic Negative is one of my absolute favorite film simulations, and, as far as I can tell, it is the second most popular, trailing only Classic Chrome. I had a really difficult time narrowing down my favorite Classic Negative Recipes, and even though I tripled the number from five to 15 (like I did for Classic Chrome), there were a lot of tough cuts that I would have loved to include in this list. I could have doubled the length of it, and I still would have had some hard decisions. If you like Classic Negative, there are a bunch of excellent options to choose from.
The 15 Film Simulation Recipes below are my favorites that use Classic Negative as the base. Everyone has different tastes, so you might like other ones more. I count 53 Recipes in the Fuji X Weekly App that use Classic Negative, so you have plenty of choices. But, if you are unsure which Classic Negative Recipe to try, let me suggest picking one from my list below.
A highly versatile Film Simulation Recipe that uses Classic Negative to replicate the aesthetic of the new Reala Ace film sim. Compatible with X-Trans V cameras.
Perfect for a sunny day at the beach, but surprisingly great for many other scenarios, too. This is the X-Trans IV (except X-T3/X-T30) version; click here for X-Trans V.
This is the Classic Negative Recipe that I personally use the most. Highly versatile, and is especially great for artificial light situations. Compatible with X-Trans IV (except the X-T3/X-T30) cameras; for X-Trans V, set Color Chrome FX Blue to Weak.
This Recipe, which is great for sunny daylight, is similar to Fujicolor Natura 1600. This is the X-Trans IV (except X-T3/X-T30) version; click here for X-Trans V.
A versatile Recipe that works well anytime of the day or night. Compatible with X-Trans V cameras; click here for X-Trans IV (except for the X-T3/X-T30).
Another option that’s great for sunny daylight. This Recipe is for X-Trans IV (except the X-T3/X-T30) cameras; for X-Trans V set Color Chrome FX Blue to Off.
Like the film, this Recipe can produce a few different looks depending on how much exposure you give it. It’s for X-Trans IV (except the X-T3/X-T30) cameras; for X-Trans V set Color Chrome FX Blue to Off.
Another Superia-like Recipe that is best for sunny daylight situations. Compatible with X-Trans IV (except the X-T3/X-T30) cameras; for X-Trans V set Color Chrome FX Blue to Off.
This is the only Recipe to make this list modeled after an Agfa film stock. Thanks to its slightly cool cast, it’s surprisingly versatile. Compatible with X-Trans IV (except the X-T3/X-T30) cameras; for X-Trans V set Color Chrome FX Blue to Weak.
This is an unusual option that does really well in the right circumstances. Compatible with X-Trans IV cameras (except the X-T3/X-T30); for X-Trans V, set Color Chrome FX Blue to Weak.
There are over 300 Film Simulation Recipes on this website and the Fuji X Weekly App. Having so many options to choose from is great, because no matter your style there’s bound to be at least one that you love, and different Recipes are sometimes best in specific situations. The only problem with having all these options is that sometimes it’s hard to know which ones to choose. There can be a paralysis of choice, or, at the very least, it can seem overwhelming.
But not to worry, I’m here to help! Over the last year I’ve been publishing articles to help with this specific problem—to be a guide of sorts through the many Recipes. There’s no comprehensive list (nor should there be, I think) of when to use each option, because whether or not a particular Recipe is great for a specific scenario is subjective. I might like one, but you might dislike it. However, I can provide some direction—something that I have been attempting to do over the last 12 months.
The problem with my method, though, is that it’s easy for my articles on this subject to get lost in the shuffle. So I thought it would be helpful to round them up, and put them into one place. That’s the intention of this article.
First up is my Which Film Simulation Recipe, When? series. If you only open one article, that’s the one to choose. I think it’s probably the most helpful out of all of them in this post. You might appreciate many of the others, too, so I would encourage you to click on more than one article to read, especially if the number of Film Simulation Recipes feels overwhelming to you, or you’re just not sure where to begin. I hope this helps with that, and you’ll have a little more confidence choosing some to program into your camera.
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I thought it would be interesting to compare Kodak-inspired Film Simulation Recipes on my Fujifilm X-E4. So I pulled out my phone, opened the Fuji X Weekly App, and selected Filter by Sensor (choosing both X-Trans III & X-Trans IV) and Filter by Color. Then I used the Search feature to find all of the recipes with “Koda” in the name—I didn’t search for “Kodak” because Kodachrome would have been excluded. The App displayed 36 recipes. Some recipes, like Reggie’s Portra, Old Ektachrome, and Elite Chrome 200, didn’t show up because “Koda” isn’t found anywhere in the recipe title, despite the Kodak-inspired aesthetic, so I had to search those out separately. Then I reprocessed an exposure (captured in Morro Bay, California) on my X-E4 with all of these recipes.
Let’s take a look at how these 41 Kodak-inspired Film Simulation Recipes compare to each other!
I get asked all of the time when to use which Film Simulation Recipe. With over 250 on the Fuji X Weekly App to choose from, it can be difficult to know when each recipe should be chosen. Besides, you only have C1-C7 Custom Presets on your Fujifilm camera (most of you, anyway). Which seven recipes should you have programed? When should you select them?
The problem with trying to answer this question is that it’s a highly subjective endeavor. While I might like a certain recipe for a particular situation, you might not. There’s not a right or wrong answer, just what works for you and what doesn’t—and I cannot say whether any particular recipe will work for you or not. Only you can answer that for yourself, and you have to try a recipe to know. With that said, I attempt to give good advice. In each SOOC broadcast I recommend a few recipes for various situations. Still, I’ve really struggled with how to be helpful to those asking for direction—that is until I watched a video by Grainydays, a YouTube channel about film photography, in which photographer Jason Kummerfeldt tries to give advice on when to use which film stocks. You can view it below:
Jason has a similar dilemma. Since film choice is such a personal thing, how do you say when to use which? It’s the same thing for Film Simulation Recipes. His solution is simply to demonstrate what he uses and state what he likes, and maybe you’ll like it too; I’m going to do the same thing for recipes. I’ll tell you what my preferences are, and invite you to try them too if you want. If you don’t want, that’s cool. There’s not any one way—and especially no right or wrong way—to do this. Instead, figure out what works for you, and do that. If you’re not sure, perhaps this article will be helpful to you.
I’m going to suggest seven recipes for you to program into your Fujifilm camera, and state when to use each. Since recipes are (for the most part) generationally specific, I’m going to make this a series of articles to cover most Fujifilm models. In this first one we’ll cover “newer” X-Trans IV cameras: X-Pro3, X100V, X-T4, X-S10, X-E4, and X-T30 II. This should also apply to X-Trans V cameras (from the reports I’ve received, X-Trans IV recipes are fully compatible with X-Trans V, although I have not tested this myself to know for certain) and newer GFX models (although the rendering will be slightly different).
Kodak Portra 400 v2 is a recipe that does well at anytime during daylight hours, and as the name suggests it is a good option for portrait photography, but I’m going to recommend it specifically for “golden hour” near sunrise and sunset. This really could be your primary use-all-of-the-time recipe, and that’s why I suggest placing it in C1, but when the sun is low to the horizon, make sure that this is the one you’re shooting with. I personally use this recipe frequently.
Kodachrome 64 is another one that could be your go-to everyday-use recipe, but specifically I want to suggest it for daytime (non-“golden hour”) photography. Obviously it can also be used for when the sun is low to the horizon, too, but I think it is one of the best options for when the sun is not low—from mid-morning to mid-afternoon. This is one of the few recipes that you’ll almost always find programmed into my camera.
If it’s thick overcast and rainy, the Kodak High Definition Plus 200 recipe is an excellent option. Yes, it’s pretty good in daylight, too (even “golden hour”), but give it a try on drab overcast days—I think you’ll really appreciate just how well it does in that situation.
For natural light indoor photography, my top choice is the Kodak Ultramax 400 recipe. This is another great all-rounder that could be used in pretty much any daytime situation and produce excellent results, but specifically I’m recommending it for natural light indoor pictures. For artificial-light indoor images, use the recipes for nighttime photography below.
If it’s after dark, my top choice for nighttime or artificial light photography is Serr’s 500T. This is a very blue recipe, so it isn’t a good option for many daytime situations, but from just past sunset to just prior to sunrise, this is the one that I would most recommend, especially if there are warm artificial lights.
For an alternative process recipe—a fun option for unusual results—my top recommendation is Xpro ’62. Use it anytime of the day or night, as it is surprisingly versatile. The results will be different, and perhaps unexpected, yet the experience will be a lot of fun, so give it a try!
Alternatives for “alternative process” photography:
My all-time favorite recipe is Kodak Tri-X 400, so it should come as no surprise that it is my top recommendation for monochrome photography. It’s not the most popular recipe on Fuji X Weekly, but it is the most popular B&W recipe. Definitely give this one a try if you’ve never done so before.
You have plenty to choose from, because I just suggested to you 42 different Film Simulation Recipes! Of course, there are so many other recipes that I could have listed—just because one didn’t make this list doesn’t mean that it’s not good; however, I do feel that this is a good set—not only the seven suggestions, which I believe are a winning C1-C7 combination, but the alternative options, too. With that said, don’t let an exclusion from this list discourage you from trying a particular recipe, because you never know when one just “clicks” for you, and you find a new favorite. The top picture in this article was captured with a recipe that I didn’t recommend, yet I do really like that recipe and do recommend it, and I even use it myself sometimes, including recently. It’s a good reminder that this is all subjective, and you might not prefer any of my recommendations, but instead have seven that I didn’t mention as your C1-C7 custom presets. So, I guess, the conclusion is to try every recipe until you find the ones you love and fulfill your photographic needs—but, if you’re not sure, maybe start with these 42.
Next up will be recipes for “older” X-Trans IV cameras—the X-T3 and X-T30.
These film simulation recipes are for Fujifilm X-Trans IV sensor cameras. X-Trans IV can be divided into two categories: X-T3 & X-T30, and X100V, X-Pro3, X-T4, X-S10, X-E4 & X-T30 II. The X-T3 & X-T30 cameras don’t have all of the JPEG options that later X-Trans IV models have. All of the X-T3 & X-T30 (as well as X-Trans III) film simulation recipes are compatible with the X100V, X-Pro3, X-T4, X-S10, X-E4 & X-T30 II; however, Grain, Toning (for B&W), and Double-Exposure (for those recipes that call for it) are different, so you’ll have to decide for yourself which equivalent settings should be used on your camera.
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X-Trans IV Recipes for X100V, X-Pro3, X-T4, X-S10, X-E4 & X-T30 II:
So you purchased a Fujifilm X100VI, but you’re not sure which Film Simulation Recipes to program into your camera’s C1-C7 Custom Presets first. Well, let me help with that! I’ve got just the seven Recipes for you to try. If you have any other X-Trans V camera, this set will work for you, too.
Like film, many Film Simulation Recipes have specific use cases where they work best. The majority are intended for sunny daylight situations; however, they can sometimes work really well in other scenarios, too. For example, I’ve gotten great results pairing Kodak Portra 800 v3 with flash for indoor photography, even though it was intended for sunshine. This set is meant to provide you with at least one Recipe that will work great in nearly any light situation and with almost every imaginable subject.
It’s important to note that everyone has different tastes and preferences. Your style might be different than mine. If you don’t like one or more of these seven Film Simulation Recipes, no problem. Simply try the suggested alternatives until you do. Perhaps you won’t like Kodachrome 64, but you’ll love Kodak Gold 200. Or maybe you’ll love both Reala Ace and Timeless Negative. The only way to know for sure is to give them a try! You can pick any from the X-Trans V list, and I’m always making more.
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The story that I found in that email was absolutely incredible! Whether or not you ever use the Film Simulation Recipe that Anders sent to me, the story itself makes this article a worthwhile read. I was (and still am) just blown away by it! It’s funny how life comes full circle in surprising ways sometimes.
“Some years back,” Anders Lindborg wrote me, “I found myself being totally photographically stuck. People liked my photos, but I could feel there was something missing from them and I thought they were still too amateurish. By chance, a photography magazine published an article called Learning How to See in which they mentioned a photographer named John Sevigny, an art teacher at a university in Mexico City. The magazine referenced Mr. Sevigny because he often talked with his students—and had also written some papers—about the subject of the article. Anyway, I started searching the internet and found many articles about him and his work. I also found some of his papers on the subject. Afterwards, I noticed that something gradually happened to my photos, and I realized that I could often see a deeper meaning in random ordinary things, people’s expressions and behavior. It really helped me, and I swore to never forget about this guy.”
“Life is funny,” Anders continued, “and I think I’m slowly starting to believe in this karma stuff. As it happens, awhile back I was contacted out of the blue by no other than John Sevigny himself! He had apparently found my stuff published on Fuji X Weekly very interesting and asked very kindly if I could help him out with the final touches on his upcoming book. The project that he had been working on was really heavy stuff, so he was temporarily burned out and needed some technical assistance, which I gladly provided. After the material for the book was finished, we continued chatting and I’m now proud to call him my friend.”
“After weeks of talking about photography, John mentioned that he really missed shooting with Kodak T-Max P3200 that he used to use all of the time while working as a news photographer. So, he said, how about making a recipe for it? I couldn’t resist, so we started developing it immediately. John provided me with all the information about the emulsion that I could possibly need, including a bunch of his own 25-year-old scans, but most important was his experience of shooting it daily for years. According to John, anytime there was a request for something that was going to be an article inside the newspaper, that’s the film they used since the available light would almost always be ranging from bad to worse. It didn’t matter if it was a sports event or a murder, they used Kodak T-Max P3200. After reading up about it (since I never shot it myself, sadly), I understood why: it was optimized to create sharp and (reasonably) detailed photos in generally bad light.”
“Much care and testing has been put into this recipe by both John and myself,” Anders concluded, “and since John had all this experienced with the film, he had to be the one to officially approve it, which he did. I couldn’t be happier with the results we got from the tests! I actually put his scans in a photo album together with my test shots and the only thing revealing was the lens quality. When using the recipe with a vintage lens, I promise that you’ll have a really hard time telling your photos apart from the real film! Even some of the film’s tell-tale quirks have been replicated.”
Wow! Thank you, Anders Lindborg and John Sevigny, for creating this Kodak T-Max P3200 Film Simulation Recipe and allowing me to share it with the Fujifilm community on Fuji X Weekly—your work is much appreciated! I really love how Fujifilm cameras and Film Simulation Recipes are bringing people together across the world—it’s truly amazing! As great as this Recipe is—and it is great—the story behind it is even better.
Like Anders, I have also (sadly) never shot with Kodak T-Max P3200 black-and-white negative film (I went with Ilford Delta 3200 instead). Originally released in 1988 (the ISO 100 and ISO 400 versions were released two years prior), Kodak discontinued T-Max P3200 in 2012, but reintroduced it (with an “improved” emulsion) in 2018. It’s actually an ISO 800 (some say ISO 1000) film that labs automatically develop with two stops of push-processing, unless you tell them otherwise. But you can shoot it at ISO 800 and not push or ISO 400 and pull one stop (for less contrast) or ISO 1600 and push one stop. Some (brave? crazy? desperate?) photographers even shot it at ISO 6400 and pushed it three stops! Kodak T-Max P3200 can basically be anywhere from an ISO 400 to an ISO 6400 film, and it can go from a fairly flat and fine-grained emulsion to a punchy and gritty film, just depending on how you shot and developed it.
With this Kodak T-Max P3200 Film Simulation Recipe, the higher the ISO you shoot with, the more it will resemble shooting the film at a higher ISO and push-processing, and the lower the ISO it will more resemble shooting at ISO 800 and not pushing in development. In other words, you are going to get somewhat different results at ISO 640 than ISO 6400; I especially appreciate how this Recipe looks from ISO 3200 to ISO 12800. You will need to consider if you want a cleaner or more grainy aesthetic, and choose an ISO that will produce those results.
If you have a Fujifilm X-Trans IV camera (X-Pro3, X100V, X-T4, X-S10, X-E4, X-S10, X-T30 II) or X-Trans V (X-H2, X-H2s, X-T5, X-S20, and any other released after publication), I invite you to give this Kodak T-Max P3200 Film Simulation Recipe a try! It’s not compatible with the X-T3 or X-T30 or X-Trans III, unfortunately; however, if you ignore Toning, Grain size, and Clarity, it should still produce good results, so don’t be afraid to give it a try. This Recipe should also work with GFX cameras, although I haven’t tested it and have no firsthand experience if it will look similar or not.
Film Simulation: Acros (orAcros+Y, Acros+R, Acros+G) Monochromatic Color (Toning): WC -1 & MG -1 Grain Effect: Strong, Large Color Chrome Effect: Off Color Chrome FX Blue: Off White Balance: 5500K, +4 Red & +7 Blue Dynamic Range: DR400 Highlight: +1 Shadow: +3 Sharpness: +2 High ISO NR: -4 Clarity: +1 ISO: up to ISO 12800 Exposure Compensation: 0 to +2/3 (typically)
Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs using this Kodak T-Max P3200 Film Simulation Recipe on my Fujifilm X-T5, X-E4 and X100V cameras:
ISO 640 vs ISO 12800:
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These Film Simulation Recipes are for Fujifilm X-Trans V sensor cameras, which currently are the X-H2, X-H2S, X-T5, X-S20 and X100VI. These recipes should also be compatible with the GFX100S and GFX50S II, but will likely render slightly different. For additional recipes to use with your X-Trans V camera, try X-Trans IV Recipes, which are also compatible with X-Trans V, and will render similarly.
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Thomas was simply trying to make a Recipe using the Nostalgic Neg. film sim that would be good for portraits. The Recipe he created has a distinctive Ektachrome aesthetic, especially similar to National Geographic photographs prior to Ektachrome’s discontinuation by 2013 (prior to the revival in 2018). That was, of course, by chance and not intentional, but there certainly are some similarities, and why this Recipe is called Thommy’s Ektachrome. It’s not only good for portraits, but also landscapes and I’m sure many genres of photography. This Recipe does particularly well in sunny daylight, but is good for overcast, shade, and natural-light indoors, too.
Because this Thommy’s Ektachrome Film Simulation Recipe uses the new Nostalgic Neg. film simulation, it is only compatible with the Fujifilm X-T5, X-H2, and X-H2S (as well as any other X-Trans V camera released after this article is published). Those with newer GFX cameras can likely use it, too, although it will probably render slightly different (but try it anyway!).
Film Simulation: Nostalgic Neg. Grain Effect: Weak, Small Color Chrome Effect: Weak Color Chrome FX Blue: Off White Balance: 5000K, -1 Red & +3 Blue Dynamic Range: DR100 Highlight: +1.5 Shadow: +1.5 Color: +1 Sharpness: -1 High ISO NR: -4 Clarity: -2 ISO: Auto, up to ISO 6400 Exposure Compensation: +0 to +1/3 (typically)
Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs using Thommy’s Ektachrome Film Simulation Recipe on my Fujifilm X-T5:
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